Questa guida ha delle modifiche più recenti. Passa all'ultima versione non verificata.
Introduzione
Segui questa guida per sostituire una batteria esaurita o degradata nel Nintendo Switch Lite.
La Switch utilizza delle viti JIS, ma all'occorrenza puoi usare un cacciavite Phillips. Stai molto attento a non spanare le viti. Le punte Phillips di iFixit sono progettate per essere compatibili anche con le viti JIS.
Per la tua sicurezza, scarica la batteria da sostituire sotto il 25% prima di smontare la tua Switch. In questo modo si riduce il rischio di un pericoloso incendio se la batteria viene danneggiata accidentalmente nel corso della riparazione. Se la tua batteria è gonfia, prendi adeguate precauzioni.
Nota: questa procedura richiede la rimozione della piastra di schermatura, che è parzialmente incollata al dissipatore da della pasta termica. Questa pasta deve essere ripulita e quindi applicata nuovamente prima di rimontare la piastra di schermatura.
Cosa ti serve
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Usa un cacciavite tri-wing Y00 per rimuovere le quattro viti lunghe 6,3 mm che fissano il pannello posteriore.
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Usa un cacciavite a croce JIS o quello PH 000 ufficiale di iFixit per rimuovere le seguenti viti di fissaggio del pannello posteriore:
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Due viti lunghe 3,6 mm nella parte superiore del dispositivo
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Due viti lunghe 3,6 mm nella parte inferiore del dispositivo
I accidentally stripped the back screw and now I can't open it. I removed all the other screws. What should I do?
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Inserisci uno strumento di apertura della griglia dell'altoparlante di sinistra, nella parte inferiore del dispositivo.
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Torci lo strumento di apertura per sganciare le clip che bloccano il pannello posteriore.
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Fai scorrere l'attrezzo di apertura attorno al bordo inferiore sinistro per sganciare le clip sul lato sinistro del dispositivo.
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Inserisci uno strumento di apertura della griglia dell'altoparlante di sinistra, nella parte inferiore del dispositivo.
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Torci l'attrezzo per sganciare le clip che bloccano il pannello posteriore.
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Fai scorrere lo strumento di apertura attorno all'angolo inferiore destro e usalo come leva per liberare le clip sul lato destro del dispositivo.
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Solleva il bordo inferiore del pannello, aprendolo come un libro.
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Rimuovi il pannello posteriore.
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Usa un cacciavite a croce JIS 000 o quello PH 000 ufficiale di iFixit per rimuovere le seguenti quattro viti:
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Tre viti lunghe 3,1 mm
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Una vite lunga 4,5 mm
There are four screws instead of three mentioned
With how easy it seems to be to do serious damage with the next few steps, I figured I'd say that realistically you can skip steps 9-13 when doing this repair. While they provide a bit of extra security by disconnecting the battery, the left stick is completely accessible and replaceable without touching the heat shield or anything underneath (And steps 17 and 18 disconnect power from the daughter board regardless).
i stripped a &&^&^$^ screw
Well I actually removed the screw right next to the 4.5 screw. I did not realize it till my son showed me why the plate wouldn't release. Ha ha, it's funny now but yeah not a big deal. I could have bent it badly assuming I took all screws out though. For anyone reading this before going in. 👍
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Usa uno strumento di apertura o un'unghia per ruotare la piccola aletta incernierata del connettore ZIF del cavo di interconnessione sulla scheda madre.
The clip broke off when trying to remove this cable. Audio only works through headphones and the display now won’t turn on after the clip broke. Does anyone know where I could get a clip or how I could fix it without it?
Mi è successa la stessa cosa è non so come ripararla! Chissà se c’è un modo!
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Usa delle pinzette per far scorrere fuori dal suo connettore e quindi scollegare il cavo di interconnessione sulla scheda madre.
I turned the unit off beforehand, I used tweezers just like the instructions said (ifixit branded) , my device sparked and now it won’t turn back on
The flap came off is it important or is there a way t fix it?
We're you able to get it working without the white flap? My screen is not working after putting it back together and i noticed this white flap was falling off
Did you get it working without the white flap? Everything on the switch works fine except for audio going through headphones and the display not turning on.
do not use metal sharp pointed tweezers! you will rip your ribbon cable. Use the inside of a Bic type pen or something else dull and plastic to pull the cable away by putting the pen part where the first bend is.
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Usa l'estremità punta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore della batteria estraendolo dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda madre.
Caution the connector may not be properly soldered onto the motherboard. For me it snapped off the pins and now have to find a place to get that fixed if even possible. may have bricked it.
Yup, broke the connector right off the motherboard. Thanks, ifixit -_-
I backed out when I reached this point. I couldn't risk damaging it. Do u just need to pull it up? Did you mean that it might have been soldered shut below?
You should just need to pull straight up, but make sure you’re pulling on the wires or the gray plug—do not pull on the black socket or it can snap off of the motherboard.
With how easy it seems to be to do serious damage at this point, I figured I'd say that realistically you can skip steps 9-13 when doing this repair. While they provide a bit of extra security by disconnecting the battery, the left stick is completely accessible and replaceable without touching the heat shield or anything underneath (And steps 17 and 18 disconnect power from the daughter board regardless).
just broke my connector... ifixit PLEASE put a warning on how fragile the solder on this connector is.
Note for this step, you do not need to apply a lot of force. I used two tools here: small screwdriver to hold down the black base, and one side of fine-tipped tweezers to get under all 3 wires. Gently, push down on the tweezers to push the wires upwards, which should force the gray connector up and off the base. It did not take a lot of force. Take your time and it will be fine. Again, like others have said, do NOT pull or pry up the black base.
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Per ammorbidire l'adesivo, applica alcune gocce di antiadesivo oppure alcol isopropilico ad alta concentrazione (90% o superiore) lungo il lato superiore dell'interno del vano della batteria.
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Inserisci un plettro di apertura nella fessura tra la batteria e il bordo del suo alloggiamento.
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Infila con cautela la punta del plettro di apertura sotto la batteria e fallo scorrere lungo il bordo per iniziare a tagliare l'adesivo sottostante.
It is not mentioned in any of the steps, but in this picture you can see that the strip that has the Volume & Power buttons is removed. I ended up tearing mine while trying to pry the battery out, so I recommend using the opening tool to release the clamp on it and to remove the piece until reassembly.
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Lascia in posizione il plettro di apertura e applica qualche altra goccia di antiadesivo o alcol isopropilico all'interno del vano della batteria.
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Solleva il bordo superiore del dispositivo e aspetta 1-2 minuti per lasciare il tempo al solvente di ammorbidire l'adesivo.
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Continua a lavorare con il plettro di apertura lungo il bordo superiore della batteria, tagliando ulteriormente l'adesivo sottostante.
Don't use isopropyl alcohol for this step! Too much will leak behind the battery well and damage the LCD screen, and 1-2 drops is NOT enough to loosen the adhesive here. Highly recommend getting specific adhesive remover, or using a hair dryer (cool to warm setting, no more than 60*F) to loosen the adhesive. Learn from my mistake!
Just want to second Ashley’s comment here. I spent a lot of time and elbow grease prying that pick in there with IPA to no avail. I’m glad I saw their comment because with the hair dryer on medium I got the thing off in 5 minutes. Fortunately, I didn’t have the same leaking into the screen experience with the many more than a couple drops of alcohol I put behind the battery.
I read the comments too late cus I just &&^&@@ up my screen with alcohol drops.
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Una volta che c'è spazio per farlo, inserisci una scheda di plastica sotto la batteria e fai leva lentamente per sollevare la cella.
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Rimuovi la batteria.
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Usa dell'antiadesivo O alcol isopropilico e un panno in microfibra per pulire ogni adesivo rimasto sotto la batteria prima di installare la nuova cella.
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Se la tua nuova batteria non è dotata di adesivo preinstallato, segui questa guida per installare adesivo pretagliato sulla parte inferiore della batteria.
Now where do I get the new battery that actually fits?
It may be better to go through the screen replacement guide and remove the midframe assembly before trying to remove the battery. The amount of alcohol or acetone you will need to remove the battery will risk the screen and the plastic underneath. It's definitely more work, but the difficulty is the same if you're doing the battery replacement, just takes longer and needs more thermal paste.
I just want to add that removing this adhesive was a massive pain and it took me both nearly half a bottle of iFixit adhesive remover plus the hair drier trick (medium heat, about 5 min) to finally get it out. But it did finally come out.
Ripping the battery out is awful. Don't even risk it. You have to apply so much force just to get it to move half a mm. I used iso and the hairdryer. Finally got it out but punctured the old one while giving the last few heaves with a screwdriver. Do not recommend! . It got hot and started smoking. When I got the new battery in and hooked everything back up, my screen was dead. Top buttons also dead. It turns on but only by holding the home button. Must have damaged the ribbon cable during my fight with the battery. Just take it to a shop.
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Per riassemblare il tuo dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.
Per prestazioni ottimali, calibra la batteria appena installata dopo aver completato la procedura.
Porta i tuoi rifiuti elettronici a un riciclatore certificato R2 o e-Stewards.
La riparazione non è andata come previsto? Prova delle soluzioni di base ai problemi, oppure rivolgiti alla nostra https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/Device/Ni... per trovare aiuto nella risoluzione dei problemi.
Per riassemblare il tuo dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.
Per prestazioni ottimali, calibra la batteria appena installata dopo aver completato la procedura.
Porta i tuoi rifiuti elettronici a un riciclatore certificato R2 o e-Stewards.
La riparazione non è andata come previsto? Prova delle soluzioni di base ai problemi, oppure rivolgiti alla nostra https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/Device/Ni... per trovare aiuto nella risoluzione dei problemi.
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20 Commenti
Hello!
I am preparing to repair my daughters nintendo switch light. It has stopped charging out of no where. I have all the tools, I just can't find the battery anywhere. Where would you recommend buying it from?
If you are still looking Ifixit sells one themselves Nintendo Switch Lite Battery
Thanks for the guide. Battery replacement kits are now available on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Nintendo-HDH-001-... (they weren’t in November! I was also looking for this during that time)
Unfortunately, the battery was much harder to remove than I expected. I did use a lot of isopropyl alcohol, but the adhesive they use really was giving me a lot of trouble. I should’ve wisened up and googled other adhesive removal methods or tried a new approach other than prying with the spudgers.
Well, now the LCD now has what looks like pressure damage in the bottom left where I’d imagine a lot of the prying pressure went. It is much more noticeable when the screen goes all-white, and not too bad with darker colors.
I don’t blame iFixit for my mistake of course, and it is really disappointing that Nintendo used the amount of adhesive that they did. But I hope this comment can serve as a warning to others attempting this repair to be more gentle even if it’s refusing to come off.
Yikes! Sorry to hear this. How did you pry with the spudger exactly? If you kept it around the top edge of the battery well then I would assume it wouldn’t damage the screen, but if you inserted the end of the spudger deeper in the battery well and used that point as the fulcrum, then I could see that putting a lot of pressure on the back of the LCD.
@craiglloyd I did an embarrassing amount of spudger prying pretty much everywhere along the top/bottom of the battery, I actually broke a few spudger tips in the process so that might reveal something about my approach…
But, I’m starting to think it may not be LCD damage after all, but rather some isopropyl alcohol caught behind the screen– During my prying, the Switch case was getting pretty heavily warped, so maybe some of the alcohol (that I definitely used in excess) slipped in and got sandwiched under the screen? I started to notice this since the blotches seem like they’ve moved over time. Here’s an image of the screen now https://imgur.com/DjYmFnJ (and the dark gray blotch along the leftside isn’t a shadow, white spots in bottom left I thought were pressure damage)
It’s still very usable / not noticeable on black colors and thanks again for the guide! I can give the screen more time to see if it improves at all, or maybe try going back in and trying to see it is trapped alcohol that can be released
vmgm -
Have the marks faded over time? We have had the ame issue and believe it is the isopropyl alcohol :/ we didn't use loads but found there was a gap at the bottom of where the battery is held which clearly let some of the alcohol through. I'm really hoping it will evaporate over time but not sure :/
Sadly no, the marks are still there, and haven’t been motivated to try to fix yet. I’ve seen some videos online where people can coerce trapped isopropyl alcohol out without having to take a screen apart, but have been hesitant to try out some of the methods.
vmgm -
Thanks for the detailed procedure. I followed the guide closely except for the battery removal procedure. The battery module is wrapped in foil backed plastic. This is easy to slice around the battery edges with an exacto knife. Once it is free, I could lever the battery module out of the bay. Then, I was able to trim the foil outer wrap into strips with the knife and peel it away in pieces. Now I am ready to install my new battery as soon as it arrives.
Same problem here with the Isoproponol which has left my sons screen really discoloured.
Can I suggest you update this tear down as I have always relied on Ifixit for both tool kits and guides and it is a shame that this has left my sons switch damaged. I do expect a bit better of a company that sells parts and tools to do this stuff.
Thanks however for the brilliant Ifixit tool kits.
after changing the battery I have gotten the 2101-0001 error code, how do i fix this?
What kind of thermal paste are we to use?
réparation super facile, juste un peu de patience avec l'alcool isopropylique, mais sinon, rien de plus simple à remplacer :D
As other people have said, the alcohol got into my unit’s display. I was able to get rid of it by using a hair dryer until the screen got really hot. I then used a suction cup on the screen to push and pull. You can see the “bubbles” start to go away. You may need to place it in several areas of the display. It is a bit scary as you need a good amount of force, but eventually it worked itself out. The display now looks perfect. Note that I left the glass screen protector on while I did this.
Same problem here too. Isopropanol also discolored my screen. Along with some mild pulling I assume that's unfixable? (price for a new/refurbished one makes it not worth... for me anyway) The dark clouds have lessened over a few days, but the lighter area that might have has the additional pulling seems to be the same.
Discard and it felt and it wasn't my fault since the Nintendo switch. Just fell and it wasn't my fault.
The dark splotches on the screen, that result from all the isopropyl alcohol needed to dissolve the unreasonable amount of glue under the battery, are not worth the caution. Especially, considering that to replace the screen costs three times what the battery does. I disassembled the backlight and air dried the different layers; I had 5 out. But that did not help! They were already stained by the alcohol. I tried using Zeiss lens cleaner, but that did not help much. The splotches are not as dark now, but they are still there. I think there is still more alcohol trapped between other layers.
My recommendation is to fully discharge the battery, put on eye protection, and use a "jimmy" and plastic cards to remove the battery. By the looks of it, I think that is certainly what iFixit did in their teardown article.
One trick I found was to stack picks under the battery to help push the battery out and away from the housing. Once i ran out of picks, i was able to put the jimmy between two of the picks and pop the battery the rest of the way out.
That is actually a good idea - reducing friction and increasing pressure. When I did it, I only used a single card, which ended up deformed by the time the glue separated!
All my screws got stripped any ideas on how to remove?
Almost A Mammal - Replica
A Y0 screwdriver seemed to work better for me.
Tommy Morrill - Replica
What type of screw driver do I use to un screw the screws and which way
Luca Capito - Replica
Y 0.6 was all I had but it seemed to fit perfectly
Trevor - Replica