Introduzione

Utilizza questa guida per sostituire la batteria del tuo Google Pixel. Con l'uso quotidiano, una batteria standard dura circa 18-24 mesi prima di perdere una capacità significativa. Se il telefono deve essere ricaricato costantemente o si spegne improvvisamente, la sostituzione della batteria potrebbe essere una soluzione.

Attenzione: a causa della tenacità dell'adesivo che fissa il display e al minimo spazio per l'inserimento degli strumenti, è facile danneggiare accidentalmente il display durante questa procedura. Segui attentamente le istruzioni e osserva tutti gli avvertimenti per aumentare le probabilità di successo.

Prima di smontare il telefono, scarica la batteria al di sotto del 25%. Una batteria agli ioni di litio carica può prendere fuoco e/o esplodere se forata accidentalmente.

Se la batteria è gonfia, prendi le dovute precauzioni.

  1. Spegni il dispositivo.
    • Spegni il dispositivo.

    • Prepara un iOpener per riscaldare i bordi del display e ammorbidire l'adesivo sottostante. In alternativa, puoi utilizzare una pistola termica o un asciugacapelli.

    • Le superfici vicino all'altoparlante e al microfono (rispettivamente superiore e inferiore) hanno sezioni adesive più grandi. Queste aree potrebbero richiedere un'esposizione al calore leggermente più lunga. Il display dovrebbe essere riscaldato fino a quando non è leggermente troppo caldo da toccare, per circa due minuti.

    When reassembling, does the adhesive still hold the phone together when closed or do we need to apply more adhesive?

    Jess Haddow - Replica

    Unfortunately also cracked my display on the way in. You have to go pretty deep under the top and bottom of the screen but BARELY in around the sides, especially the corners. If I had to do it over again, I would have either tried a playing card or put some type of depth limit/mark on my pick so I didn’t go more than a few millimeters in.

    Matthew Jastremski - Replica

    Use plenty of heat here and take your time. Start from the top, then the sides. use a gentle prying motion with the picks but don’t go too deep.

    Richard Wood - Replica

  2. Nel passaggio che segue, dovrai separare il pannello del display tagliando l'adesivo tra il display e il telaio del Pixel. Per riferimento, la parte posteriore del pannello è mostrata a sinistra. Nota lo spazio ristretto tra il lato del display e il pannello OLED. L'inserimento di uno strumento di apertura a profondità maggiore di 1,5 mm ai lati del dispositivo o di 9 mm sopra o sotto può danneggiare permanentemente il display.
    • Nel passaggio che segue, dovrai separare il pannello del display tagliando l'adesivo tra il display e il telaio del Pixel.

    • Per riferimento, la parte posteriore del pannello è mostrata a sinistra. Nota lo spazio ristretto tra il lato del display e il pannello OLED.

    • L'inserimento di uno strumento di apertura a profondità maggiore di 1,5 mm ai lati del dispositivo o di 9 mm sopra o sotto può danneggiare permanentemente il display.

    • Una una ventosa per alzare il display e creare un sottile spazio tra il display e lo chassis del telefono.

    • Se il vetro è rotto, applica del nastro adesivo per favorire l'adesione della ventosa ed evitare la dispersione di frammenti di vetro.

  3. Inserisci un plettro o una carta da gioco nella fessura tra il telaio e il display. Inizia a far scorrere il plettro attorno al bordo del display per separare l'adesivo che lo blocca. Il pannello del display è fragile. Se pensi di riusare il display, stai attento a inserire il plettro solo per quanto necessario a separare l'adesivo. L'inserimento dell'attrezzo a maggiore profondità può danneggiare il pannello OLED sotto il vetro.
    • Inserisci un plettro o una carta da gioco nella fessura tra il telaio e il display.

    • Inizia a far scorrere il plettro attorno al bordo del display per separare l'adesivo che lo blocca.

    • Il pannello del display è fragile. Se pensi di riusare il display, stai attento a inserire il plettro solo per quanto necessario a separare l'adesivo. L'inserimento dell'attrezzo a maggiore profondità può danneggiare il pannello OLED sotto il vetro.

    I needed a stronger tool than the provided guitar picks to actually get between the glass and the frame. Had to use a metal tool to get in there. Once I could get in, things went fairly smoothly.

    Only mistake after that was not getting a great seal on the glue when reassembling the phone so now the glass toward the bottom of the screen doesn’t completely stay in place. :(

    Steve Johnson - Replica

    Dang! Metal is a scary choice, but I’m glad it worked out for the most part. That’s good to know. You could try re-heating the adhesive around the part of the screen that isn’t staying in place, and then putting the phone under a stack of books for an hour or so! That might get it to seal up completely.

    Taylor Dixon -

    I got the glass free by using plenty of heat, an x-acto knife to start the opening and playing cards under the glass to break the glue. I did not use the suction cup because it kept feeling like it would break the glass.

    Michael Hendricks - Replica

  4. Continua a separare con cautela l'adesivo attorno al resto del dispositivo. Stai molto attento con i bordi laterali, che sono profondi solo 1,5 mm. Stai molto attento con i bordi laterali, che sono profondi solo 1,5 mm.
    • Continua a separare con cautela l'adesivo attorno al resto del dispositivo.

    • Stai molto attento con i bordi laterali, che sono profondi solo 1,5 mm.

    there should be two notes here - “while adhesive is still warm, REMOVE ALL OF IT or you would be fcked later.” additionally, “ensure you are not separating the OLED from the glass as this will somehow render the screen completely useless”

    Liz Zelnick - Replica

    Agreed. I just removed the glass from the OLED display…oopss. I’m hosed.

    Joshua Brown - Replica

    Removing the adhesive while it is warm is a great idea!

    Re: removing the glass from the OLED, as long as you aren’t inserting your opening pick deeper than Step 2 recommends, you should be safe from separating the glass and the display panel unless you are using a ton of heat, in which case you might be frying the display anyway!

    Taylor Dixon - Replica

    I didn’t apply enough heat during this process and subsequently separated the digitizer from the glass, instead of the whole assembly from the case. I had 3/4 of the screen free from the case when I became impatient and just tried to muscle my way through the rest of the adhesive. It is important to stop and apply more heat during this process any time it starts feeling difficult to move the pick through the adhesive, otherwise you risk breaking the screen and having to get a whole new one.

    Britton Wickes - Replica

    I got the glass off without cracking anything, but now that it’s back together it doesn’t seem to work. Could it have been damaged from the heat? It flickers green for an instant when plugging in to power or pressing the power button.

    Nicholas Cox - Replica

  5. Una volta tagliato l'adesivo, solleva lentamente il display dalla parte superiore (quella con la griglia per gli altoparlanti), ruotalo delicatamente oltre la verticale e disponilo, come mostrato, con la superficie frontale posata sulla parte inferiore del dispositivo. Non cercare di rimuovere completamente il display, è ancora collegato con un fragile cavo sottile. Fai attenzione a non forzare il cavo mentre muovi il display. Non cercare di rimuovere completamente il display, è ancora collegato con un fragile cavo sottile. Fai attenzione a non forzare il cavo mentre muovi il display.
    • Una volta tagliato l'adesivo, solleva lentamente il display dalla parte superiore (quella con la griglia per gli altoparlanti), ruotalo delicatamente oltre la verticale e disponilo, come mostrato, con la superficie frontale posata sulla parte inferiore del dispositivo.

    • Non cercare di rimuovere completamente il display, è ancora collegato con un fragile cavo sottile. Fai attenzione a non forzare il cavo mentre muovi il display.

    Ruined my Pixel following these instructions. Ribbon cable is at bottom (chin) of phone and not as shown in pictures. My advice take it somewhere and have them replace the battery, that way when they break it it’s their fault.

    John Simpson - Replica

    I’m sorry the instructions weren’t clear, John! I’ve updated the guide to better illustrate where ribbon cable is and how to work around it.

    Taylor Dixon -

    And another note - I used the suction cup to lift the glass. Unfortunately the glass cracked at that point…bummer. I would update this to describe HOW to lift the glass. As in, LIGHTLY lift up with the suction cup while mostly lifting up on the guitar picks to help separate..

    Joshua Brown - Replica

  6. Usa un cacciavite Torx T5 per rimuovere le due viti T5 nere da 3,5 mm che fissano la staffa del connettore del cavo del display.
    • Usa un cacciavite Torx T5 per rimuovere le due viti T5 nere da 3,5 mm che fissano la staffa del connettore del cavo del display.

  7. Spedizione gratuita per tutti gli ordini superiori a 100 US$ o contenenti un Kit Attrezzi Pro Tech!

    Sfoglia il Nostro Negozio
  8. Usa delle pinzette per rimuovere la staffa che tiene in posizione il connettore del display.
    • Usa delle pinzette per rimuovere la staffa che tiene in posizione il connettore del display.

    Using extreme care, another broken screen here. Instead of coming off together, the adhesive separated between the outer glass and the digitizer panel/screen. Both were damaged in the process. Waste of time and money.

    Chris Kahn - Replica

    Yes, me too. I’d like advice as to how to vary the glue heating process for this to not occur. Does the heat need to be applied for longer so the deeper OLED panel releases without pulling from the glass?

    Joshua Brown - Replica

  9. Utilizza uno spudger per sollevare il connettore del cavo del display, liberando il display.

    (from other ifixit tutorial. Did not know this-and it is important!)

    To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

    bgwong2476 - Replica

  10. Rimuovi il display.
  11. Usa cacciaviti Torx T5 per rimuovere le nove viti 3.5mm che fissano il telaio centrale
    • Usa cacciaviti Torx T5 per rimuovere le nove viti 3.5mm che fissano il telaio centrale

  12. Il telaio centrale è tenuto fermo da cinque clips. Per sbloccare le clips, applicare una pressione verso l'interno con uno strumento di appertura come mostrato nei passi sucessivi
    • Il telaio centrale è tenuto fermo da cinque clips. Per sbloccare le clips, applicare una pressione verso l'interno con uno strumento di appertura come mostrato nei passi sucessivi

    There’s also a clip at the top center (near the camera/ earpiece).

    When reassembling, snap the top clip in before you snap the sides. If you do the sides first, then you can’t snap the top in and will need to disassemble and try again.

    Mark Clementi - Replica

  13. Inserisci uno strumento di apertura nell'incavo posizionato in basso a destra sull'angolo del telefono.
    • Inserisci uno strumento di apertura nell'incavo posizionato in basso a destra sull'angolo del telefono.

  14. Fate scorrere lo strumento di apertura su entrambi i lati del dispositivo nel piccolo spazio tra il telaio centrale e la scocca posteriore per sbloccare le clips che tengono fermo il tutto. Nota che le clips non vengono sbloccate dall'attrezzo che scorre tra di esse, ma bensì dalla forza verso l'interno che esso crea quando entra tra gli spazzi tra le clips. Se le clips non dovessero sbloccarsi, provate a premere con le dita sui lati dove state cercando di aprire, o usando un attrezzo più grosso come uno spudger.
    • Fate scorrere lo strumento di apertura su entrambi i lati del dispositivo nel piccolo spazio tra il telaio centrale e la scocca posteriore per sbloccare le clips che tengono fermo il tutto.

    • Nota che le clips non vengono sbloccate dall'attrezzo che scorre tra di esse, ma bensì dalla forza verso l'interno che esso crea quando entra tra gli spazzi tra le clips.

    • Se le clips non dovessero sbloccarsi, provate a premere con le dita sui lati dove state cercando di aprire, o usando un attrezzo più grosso come uno spudger.

    • Non tentate di rimuovere già il telaio centrale! C'è ancora un cavo piatto fragile sotto, che collega il connettore dell'altoparlante alla scheda madre.

    when removing the mid frame i damaged a ribbon cable at the bottom left. will that prevent my phone from turning on?

    Bryce Thoreson - Replica

  15. Usa uno spudger per fare leva verso l'alto sul connettore collegato al cavo dell'altoparlante, disconnettendolo così dalla scheda madre. Rimuovete il telaio centrale dal resto del dispositivo.
    • Usa uno spudger per fare leva verso l'alto sul connettore collegato al cavo dell'altoparlante, disconnettendolo così dalla scheda madre.

    • Rimuovete il telaio centrale dal resto del dispositivo.

    • Nel riassemblaggio, riattaccate il cavo dell'altoparlante e inserite prima la parte superiore del telaio centrale e solo sucessivamente riattaccate il tutto.

  16. Usa uno spudger per sollevare il cavo a nastro della batteria, scollegandolo dalla scheda madre.
    • Usa uno spudger per sollevare il cavo a nastro della batteria, scollegandolo dalla scheda madre.

  17. Usando una pinzetta, stacca il nastro argentato che copre il cavo che collega la scheda madre alla scheda figlia. Sbuccia quel tanto che basta per vedere il connettore sottostante. Usa uno spudger per sollevare il connettore e scollegarlo dalla scheda madre.
    • Usando una pinzetta, stacca il nastro argentato che copre il cavo che collega la scheda madre alla scheda figlia. Sbuccia quel tanto che basta per vedere il connettore sottostante.

    • Usa uno spudger per sollevare il connettore e scollegarlo dalla scheda madre.

  18. Stacca l'adesivo che copre il cavo di interconnessione sul lato scheda figlia. Usa uno spudger per scollegare il cavo dalla scheda figlia. Rimuovi il cavo dal dispositivo.
    • Stacca l'adesivo che copre il cavo di interconnessione sul lato scheda figlia.

    • Usa uno spudger per scollegare il cavo dalla scheda figlia.

    • Rimuovi il cavo dal dispositivo.

    • Durante il rimontaggio, assicurati che questo cavo di interconnessione sia posizionato correttamente. Il telefono non si avvia se il cavo è installato capovolto.

  19. La batteria è leggermente incollata al case posteriore. Infila delicatamente uno spudger sotto la batteria per staccare l'adesivo. Se la batteria non esce facilmente, non fare leva in modo aggressivo. Applica calore sul retro del telefono con un iOpener o una pistola termica per allentare l'adesivo.
    • La batteria è leggermente incollata al case posteriore. Infila delicatamente uno spudger sotto la batteria per staccare l'adesivo.

    • Se la batteria non esce facilmente, non fare leva in modo aggressivo. Applica calore sul retro del telefono con un iOpener o una pistola termica per allentare l'adesivo.

    • Fai del tuo meglio per non deformare la batteria durante questo processo. Le batterie agli ioni di litio a guscio morbido possono perdere sostanze chimiche pericolose, prendere fuoco o persino esplodere se danneggiate. Non usare forza eccessiva o fare leva sulla batteria con strumenti di metallo.

    • Non riutilizzare la batteria dopo che è stata rimossa, poiché ciò potrebbe costituire un potenziale pericolo per la sicurezza. Sostituiscila con una nuova batteria.

    • Rimuovi la batteria.

    • Per installare nuova batteria:

    • Rimuovi tutto l'adesivo rimasto dal telefono e pulisci le aree di incollaggio con alcol isopropilico e un panno privo di pelucchi.

    • Fissa la nuova batteria con nastro adesivo pretagliato o nastro biadesivo. Applica il nuovo adesivo sul telefono e non direttamente sulla batteria.

    • Premi fermamente in posizione la batteria per 5-10 secondi.

Conclusione

Confronta la nuova batteria con la batteria originale: potrebbe essere necessario trasferire i componenti rimanenti o rimuovere i rinforzi adesivi dalla nuova batteria prima dell'installazione.

Per riassemblare il dispositivo, segui i passaggi precedenti in ordine inverso.

Porta i tuoi rifiuti elettronici a un centro di riciclo autorizzato.

La riparazione non è andata come previsto? Consulta la nostra Forum Risposte per la risoluzione dei problemi.

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Taylor Dixon

Membro da: 26/06/2018

8.801 Reputazione

30 Guide realizzate

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iFixit Membro di iFixit

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108 Membri

8.295 Guide realizzate

I doubt many people can get past step 1 without it being game over. Take special care, read the comments, and other guides as well.

Benjamin Knight - Replica

I broke mine too. Not the glass but the display panel underneath.

For those who are going to try opening theirs: pay extreme attention to the fact that the display panel extends somewhat beyond the bottom edge of the visible part of the display where the cable connects and, if that wasn’t bad enough, the bottom bezel has a !&&* of a lot adhesive on it. Don’t insert plastic opening tools on the bottom corners - if you do that, you will damage one of the unprotected corners of the panel like I did. If I had to do that again, I’d probably start from the top edge instead.

The new screen ended up costing me the equivalent of $80, and I was surprised I was able to walk into a store and buy one at all in a country where Pixel was never officially available in the first place. They didn’t have white ones in stock so I went with a black one.

Gregory Klyushnikov -

Same. Even when being warned and trying to be super careful.

Joshua Campbell -

Another trashed screen. This phone is a difficult one if you have not done one before. I would recommend not even bothering with prying under the sides and just concentrate on the top and bottom. The edges only allow about 2mm at most before you run into the LCD.

Tyler -

Success! I was able to replace the battery in my pixel although it took much longer than expected. I highly recommend using a playing card (or several) to cut through the adhesive as it can fairly easily bend around the fragile components. Patience is needed as it took me nearly an hour to get the screen off, reheating, gently prying and cutting with the card. Once past the screen it was fairly straightforward despite the pre cut adhesive being too long. The adhesive comes back into play during the reassembly prep as it took at least half an hour to remove the old adhesive and prep for the new. Be aware that the foam on the mid frame is alcohol soluble and will dissolve on contact. The new adhesive for the screen took some gentle massaging to line up but ultimately went on without much fight. All back together, it works (hopefully with renewed battery life). I would say allocate at least 2 hours unless you’ve done it before.

josh9623 - Replica

This took me about 2 hours. I was very, very careful, and it was a success! No broken screen.

jlteekell - Replica

My screen is already broken and my battery is close to shot so should I just plan on replacing the screen anyways? Seems like removing screen without breaking it is crazy difficult so I should just plan on replacing the screen and battery in one procedure.

Matt Mendivil - Replica

Worked like a charm! Don’t expect to breeze through this in 30 minutes though. I used a hair dryer rather than the I-opener and was able to easily pry the screen up from the bottom of the phone using the blue opening tool and the suction cup. From there I used the picks to completely release the adhesive from the bottom and the top of the screen. Once the top and bottom were loose I used a playing card to loosen the sides and the screen came right off. For step 14 the picks were too flexible to loosen the clips on the midframe but the spudger did the trick. Requires a bit a patience but it’s not nearly as scary as the comments make it seem. Great product

Anthony - Replica

Tried to get the screen propped up to start loosening the adhesive. I tried using both the provided iOpener and an SMD rework heat gun, set at very low settings (100 - 120C). Even with extensive heat, I could not get the screen to budge. It’s quite hard to get leverage to lift the screen off, and with the amount of force I was trying to pull on the suction cup to get the screen up, I was concerned about breaking the screen.

I should have read the many reviews by people saying that they broke the screen, so that’s on me, but honestly cannot recommend this. I don’t really think iFixit should be offering this as a product to be honest.

Tim Cosgrove - Replica

Took me 3 hours but I was successful. Be careful. Watch a couple of YouTube videos and read the instructions front to back twice before you get started.

Adhesive is !&&* and getting started is challenging. Use a playing card and a heat gun to release the adhesive. I started in the top right corner of the device, used the included replacement adhesive as your guide.

I used the included suction cup, heat gun and an xacto knife to catch that first gap on the corner. Use the included picks to hold the gaps as you work your way around. Pull the playing card through the top and bottom gently, the adhesive will stick to the card.

Take care on the long sides, the edge of the screen is VERY narrow, make a mark along the edge of the card at 1mm. Don’t pry, just slide. Use the heat gun constantly, get the screen hot to the touch.

Once I reassembled the phone the microphone didn’t work. I popped it open again and reattached the ribbon cable on the daughter board. Microphone works now — but it gave me a good scare.

Philip Van Drunen - Replica

While this was definitely a difficult repair, I think that the guide is very thorough. I did this repair in about 3 and a half hours with 4 other friends all working together. We were very careful and cut very shallowly through the adhesive to ensure the safety of the display ribbon. We did however use a video guide to fill in a few of the small gaps not shown in the images here. In the end, everything worked out well, so I would definitely recommend this guide to fix your Pixel battery, as long as you have some help and a lot of time.

Afana Craft - Replica

Broke the display trying to remove it, even after using a heat gun the display was hard to remove. Was successful with replacing the battery. The display I ordered to replace the the broken display I also broke trying to fit into the frame, but It did work for a short time. Have ordered another display and adhesive - have a better idea what to do.

Dale Slaughter - Replica

Success! Used the iFixit heat pad

Took ~3 hours.

Patience working through getting the display unstuck is key I think.

Removing the glue before putting in the new one was a massive nuisance, unlike the photos the glue doesn’t simply peel off, every single pit had to be coaxed off with the spudger. The most effective technique seemed to be kind of pushing it from the edges with the tip of the spudger.

Paul Buxton - Replica

Thanks for the guide. Did this in ~2 hours without breaking my screen (murphy’s law: I ordered a replacement screen to have on standby just in case). PATIENCE was the key word here. Used a heat gun, a heavy-duty suction cup, a guitar pick to maintain the initial gap, and then a playing card to gently cut the glue.

Just focus on the top and bottom of the screen - don’t even fool with the sides, unless you want a broken screen. Once you have the top (or bottom) carefully unseated/unglued, peel the screen back using the suction cup - this will take care of the sides - and then just focus on the other end.

Good luck

Derek - Replica

I replaced the battery and charge port. Phone boots up but no display on the lcd so I guess I broke it. But I see no visible damage at all on the back or front of the screen and the digitizer senses touches. Ordered another screen. Hoping I didn’t break something else in the process or else could be a pain trying to diagnose it. Btw anyone know how to power off the phone without use of the lcd? Holding power button only reboots.

Vince - Replica

Dang it, that’s a bummer. Even if the screen shows no damage, it’s possible that your opening pick went in just a little too far and messed up the display. That said, it’s also possible you could have a different problem! It sounds like you were really careful with the screen, so it could be that your display cable connector just didn’t fully snap into place, or it may have gotten some gunk on it that is interfering with the connection. Hopefully the new display works.

Without the display you can hold the power button + volume down to restart the phone, but I’m not sure there is a way to shut it down. You can always just disconnect the battery, if the phone is still semi-open!

Taylor Dixon -

i did the same - battery works fine and i can hear the phone boot; roommate did a test call and the phone works, but the screen is toast. i ordered a new screen, plugged it in (without attaching the adhesive!) and nada. idk what else to try

Liz Zelnick -

If a new display is still malfunctioning and you’re sure the display cable is properly seated, I’d say something probably short circuited during the repair. It’s hard be certain what happened, but a short circuits tend to happen when cables are unplugged while the phone is powered on. At this point a new motherboard will most likely take care of the issue. (Google Pixel G-2PW4100 Motherboard) I’m sorry things didn’t go well for you both, and I hope you can get everything working soon!

Taylor Dixon -

This guide was great. The new battery makes me think my phone is brand new with the longevity it has now. I can echo the warning about getting the screen off. I bought the whole ifixit kit for this procedure and my only recommendation is that you use the warmer on both sides before you start to pry off the screen. It is extremely delicate and that cannot be understated. I ended up having to purchase a replacement screen and then dig out all the shards of glass before replacing the battery.

For those who are scared of this procedure, getting the glass off is the hardest part, the rest is easy.

Andrew Gordon - Replica

I broke the screen on opening for 2 reasons. First. Should be clearly notated that the ribbon cable between the OLED and the DIGITIZER (which SHOULD COME OFF IN ONE PIECE WHEN YOU REMOVE THE DISPLAY) sits INTO the bottom right side of the glass bezel. So the instructions to “not go further than the colored (white or black) glass into where the display is”, is inaccurate.

Second, my digitizer separated from the OLED while lifting it out, was this because the adhesive wasn’t hot enough? How to avoid this??

Joshua Brown - Replica

Important to start the screen carefully. The sides are least sticky but the most difficult. This is because there is 1.9mm of space between edge of glass and the OLED display under the glass. If you keep your pry tool at 30° you will miss the Display. Once you have the screen off the hard part is behind you. Keep this guide close by. Watch videos and don't hurry. Good luck!

Donald Droga - Replica

Excellent guide. Performed a successful replacement without damaging my screen and so far everything seems to work fine.

-Removal of the screen wasn’t as hard as they made it out to be, just gotta be careful.

-Removal of all old adhesive was more difficult

-It was difficult to keep the front camera lens cover clean during adhesive removal . Removal of the old adhesive was the most time consuming part of my battery replacement

-the thin wire that runs down the battery side of the bottom part of the phone got in the way of clipping in the middle frame. I noticed when I was removing the glue that it kinda “bulged” up on the side between the screws. I removed the middle frame again and I had to shift the battery over a millimeter or so in order to place the wire down out of the way.

-Also I have no idea how it was missed in the first place but one of the 9 screws in my middle frame was already loose! Screw # 4 if you count Left to Right, top to bottom in step #11

Henry Scharf - Replica

apparently I screwed something up and missed more “tests” before I placed the screen on the device. 1: It won’t charge. 2: Vibration motor wasn’t working 3: speaker isn’t working. Now the phone is completely dead and I’m waiting on more screen adhesive before I take it apart again.

Henry Scharf -

Check your connection to the charging port module. My guess is that it wasn't plugged back in correctly. Otherwise get one of these. Very easy to replace once the phone is opened up. I had to change mine out because the port wouldn't charge. Mic, speaker,motor and charge port are in this module.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Google-Pixel-5-...

Vince -

Henry, that is a bummer! Vince is right, there’s probably something going on with your daughterboard. Make sure the long interconnect cable (the one you remove in step 18) is properly connected, and if all else fails, the replacement part he linked (sorry, ours is out of stock :( ) should do the trick!

Taylor Dixon -

No mention of earpiece mesh?

Donald Droga - Replica

Donald, do you mean the earpiece speaker grill? We do mention that in the Sostituzione display Google Pixel guide.

Taylor Dixon -

Read all of the instructions thoroughly, read all of the comments, watch some videos, TAKE YOUR TIME. Its a great kit but I used a heat gun and it took me 3 hours start to finish. You’ll definitely want to start from the top when removing the glass. Wedge a few guitar picks in there, hit it with the heat again, and keep gently working that glass off.

Richard Wood - Replica

My screen broke while removal, but no issues aside from that. No fault of the review, just be very careful if you are hoping to reuse the screen. They’re cheap on Amazon, just plan on breaking it unless you’re a pro.

My only recommendation regarding the directions is to really heat the screen up. I progressively heated it hotter and hotter and found that the adhesive really loosened up when an IR thermometer showed the screen to be ~190 F, which is in my opinion a higher than the guides recommended ‘slightly too hot to touch’.

Also, be careful to not get alcohol on the foam under screen liner - it will badly melt it and will make your screen sit wavy.

I found better luck with a wide, flat razor blade to make the initial gap. Be sure to go in at an angle rather than straight down, I went too far down and bent the mid-frame a little bit. A wide blade won’t scratch up the phone frame. But at this point my screen was already broken so take that for what it’s worth.

Jackson Schleich - Replica

Hopefully this will help prevent others from accidentally breaking their screens. This back to back to show what you are dealing with in terms of dimensions. I would pay particular attention to the bottom of the screen where the lcd angles in and extends about a 1/8” beyond the what you are able to see from the front. I think this is where I may have damaged mine. I did not see any physical damage on mine but it definitely doesn’t power on.

https://imgur.com/wR4HUo6

Vince - Replica

Just finished replacing the battery and it wasn’t too bad. Read the comments about other peoples’ mistakes, watch some Youtube videos, take your time, and you’ll be fine. If you’re not good at these things or very nervous, then just buy an extra screen to have on hand and return it if you end up not needing it.

Mark Clementi - Replica

Just in the process of replacing battery…The prying part wasn’t so hard as I’ve imagined…took ~15 mins, and here is a photo of the back of the screen. https://i.imgur.com/W0C2JHl.jpg .See the red rectangle? I might have ‘damaged’ something so be really careful dealing with the lower half of the frame. I’ve re-powered on and display & touch are both good.

pizzamx - Replica

Took me another ~30 mins to remove the midframe…AFAIC this part is more tricky then removing the screen…just remember to follow the instructions - i.e. apply inward pressure.

pizzamx -

I’m screwed. Screen doesn’t work after replacing the battery. No sure what went wrong…placing order for a replacement screen now :(

pizzamx -

does the phone power on when you hold the power button? ie, does the phone have that short vibration during boot? if not, maybe something isn’t plugged in correctly? if it does vibrate, then yeah, the screen went poop. the latter is what happened to me (it vibrated but and booted up but the screen never lit up) so i replaced the screen and all good (after $40).

Vince -

Hi Vince, unfortunately my phone did boot up, I felt the vibration and it rang when receiving incoming calls…After comparing it with the new replacement I think it was the display cable connector pins that I accidentally broke while plugging the cable. See https://imgur.com/a/SuItoIN and the two panels side by side: https://imgur.com/a/mL6UjGh . If you can see it clearly it might well be the top-right part of the pins that’ve gone missing…It’s really disaster…I’m just over-confident with myself :D Hope this post will help whoever doing this in the future and be reminded that anything can be broken.

pizzamx - Replica

I followed this procedure to replace the power button. Everything seemed to go well, though I may have gone to far in on the bottom (I went basically until the white border turns to display).

When I press the power button, the screen flickers green for an instant. When I first plugged it into my computer, it recognized it as a Pixel, but did not pop up using “fastboot devices”. Now, it isn’t recognized at all by the computer, sometimes saying “the usb device you plugged in has malfunctioned…”.

If I hold the power button for 25-30 seconds, I get the vibration like the phone is powering on, but nothing on screen and still not recognized using fastboot.

Any ideas? Did I short something on the motherboard? There’s a fair chance I accidentally powered the phone on before plugging everything back in as I was testing the power button to make sure it was seated correctly.

Anyway, thanks for this write up and any help ya’ll can offer!

Nicholas Cox - Replica

Nicholas, I’m sorry things didn’t work out! Yours certainly seems like a strange case. I’m going to optimistically guess that your problem is confined to the screen, and hope your computer isn’t recognizing it because of its own problems (you can never trust windows drivers too much haha). I think if I were you I would try a replacement screen, and then if that doesn’t work you can pick up a new motherboard. Hopefully only one of those two parts are the root of your problem. If you do only end up needing one of them, you can return the other! Sorry again about the complications, I hope you can get it worked out! Let us know how it goes!

Taylor Dixon -

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