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Introduzione

For an easier repair, use our fix kit and follow this shorter guide to replace your iPhone’s entire screen.

For more advanced fixers, this guide will help you replace only the iPhone’s LCD and digitizer assembly (a.k.a. the bare “front panel”). This requires you to transfer several components from your original screen to the new one before installing it—including the front-facing camera, earpiece speaker, LCD shield plate, and home button assembly.

For all screen/display repairs, it's important to transfer the original home button onto the new display in order for Touch ID (fingerprint scanning) to function.

Panoramica Video

  1. iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement, Pentalobe Screws: passo 1, immagine 1 di 1
    • Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.6 mm P2 Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning connector.

    I prefer to remove the SIM card as the very first step since it's safer to do so while the phone is fully assembled.

    estebanfallasf - Replica

    I stripped one of the two screws - at a dead stop.

    Margaret Patterson - Replica

    Before you even start: get the iOpener or hairdryer out. You’ll need it

    GPZ - Replica

    If a lightning connector won’t provide a charge or needs to be wiggled carefully to provide a charge, power off the device, then try using precision tweezers to scrape the innermost wall of the lightning jack in a pinching motion to check for lint buildup. Pocket lint or other debris can accumulate inside the jack, compacting each time a cable is inserted. This can prevent a lightning cable from seating fully. Clearing the lint may restore functionality without replacing the part.

    Andrew Dolan - Replica

    A few hints:

    * heating up the phone works great. I used a heating pad that you put in the microwave to heat sports injuries.

    * also, I made a sheet to help you keep track of the screws as you remove them. Print out the page, then place double sided tape below each color-coded listing of screws, and stick the screws to the tape as you disassemble. This helps prevent losing the screws and keeps track of what screws are what for easier reassembly. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pLSvKvB...

    Paul Faulstich - Replica

    Additional hints, for anyone who needs them:

    * stick the screws to the tape in the same positions as they are shown in the guide. This will make it easier to identify them during reassembly.

    * if the screws get mixed together, the ‘mm’ (millimetre, millimeter) measurements given in the guide can be used to identify them. Compare the lengths of the threaded shafts to each other to determine which screw is which.

    Friendly Advice -

  2. iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement, Taping Over The Display: passo 2, immagine 1 di 3 iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement, Taping Over The Display: passo 2, immagine 2 di 3 iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement, Taping Over The Display: passo 2, immagine 3 di 3
    • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

    • If the broken glass makes it difficult to get a suction cup to stick in the next few steps, try folding a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lifting the display with that instead.

    • The next two steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 6 Plus that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip down two steps.

    • If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone 6 Plus.

    • Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction cup jaws.

    • Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups.

    • Position the iSclack's upper suction cup against the display, near the home button.

    • Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

    • If your display or back glass is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may help the suction cups adhere. The iSclack also includes two pieces of tape for this purpose.

  3. iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 4, immagine 1 di 2 iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 4, immagine 2 di 2
    • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.

    • The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage any of the display cables.

    • Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.

    • Skip the next three steps and continue on to Step 7.

    It's very difficult if you want to remove a cracked screen. The suction cup and Islack won't work. Does anybody know a better way?

    Herbert - Replica

    I use Scotch Tape, shipping tape. Put a couple of layers over the crack screen. That seals it so you can use the suction cup to remove the front of phone.

    Michael Wallace -

    I used the plastic pry took and the spudger to open it up. I place the pry tool dead center below the home button and was able to put some pressure around the seam and the top popped up enough for me to get the spudger in there to hold it open and then work my way around with the plastic pry tool.

    johnoconna -

    Apply clear packaging tape to screen. Then suction cup to that.

    Tracey -

    Use clear nontextured tape place that over the phone screen. Refer to any guide that addresses replacing a shattered screen

    Abigail Cherry - Replica

    I know it's tough with cracked glass. You just need enough to get in a plstic pry tool or guitar pick. Then you can pry it apart. Just be patient, I cannot stress that enough; the electronics are very, very small and fragile.

    Mike - Replica

  4. iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement, Front Panel Assembly: passo 5, immagine 1 di 1
    • If you don't have an iSclack, use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:

    • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the cup is pressed securely onto the screen to get a tight seal.

    • If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

    Avec la ventouse, l’ouverture est brutale, tout s’est déclipsé d’un seul coup. Faire attention.

    Paul Briffaut - Replica

    English Please!

    tom mozeleski -

    With the sucker, the opening is brutal, everything was cleared at once. Pay attention. (Paul’s comment translated by Google)

    Steve Schlotter - Replica

    May need to burp the sticker before it sticks. Need to let the air out. Once Idid that, no problem. Except it was still hard to get the cover to start up.

    Patricia Tucker - Replica

    Don’t waste your time with the suction cup - it doesn’t work! insert the blade of a box cutter just below the lower screen edge below the home button and gently pry just enough to start cracking the seal.

    Stephen Smith - Replica

  5. iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 6, immagine 1 di 1
    • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.

    • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.

    • Using a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the display assembly, while continuing to pull up with the suction cup.

    • There are several clips attaching the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.

    Be extra careful here. If you don’t take your time, your front panel may jerk back on you, causing you to overextend and break the front camera/mic flex cable; happened to me. Slowly peel back the front panel, opening it no more than 90º.

    Thomas - Replica

    watch out for the left side of the phone the adhesive bunches up around the inner clips, i didn’t realize it and the upper left of my screen cracked pretty bad. But this guide is awesome follow every direction to the letter

    Aaron Fitzpatrick - Replica

    Note: this comment is written for the iPhone 6 Plus, but may also apply to other models of iPhone.

    Disassembly:

    The clips in the rear case attach to small slotted shapes under the edges of the display assembly, and these attachment points alternate from one side to the other. Moving from bottom to top, gently pulling the rear case away at these points will help to separate the two halves without using too much force.

    Reassembly:

    Ensure that the plastic clips along the top edge of the front panel (shown in step 8) are fitted properly inside the rear case, then gently press the display assembly into the rear case at these points, moving from top to bottom. There may be a small click sound as the clips in the rear case engage with the slots on the display assembly, and the rear case should fit flush with the edges of the display assembly.

    Friendly Advice - Replica

    This was challenging. For me, the suction cup could only create a tiny bit of motion and at first, no actual gap at all. You might have to pull the suction cup away from the base a few times just to loosen things up a tiny bit. Eventually, I got my fingernail in, and then after a few minutes got the plastic tool in.

    Also, use the plastic tool to gently pry along the sides of the phone once there’s light there. I was afraid of using too much leverage and breaking the screen as per the other comments, but starting at the bottom and then going around the sides slowly worked for me.

    FixingMyiPhone - Replica

  6. iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 7, immagine 1 di 2 iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 7, immagine 2 di 2
    • Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.

    • Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

    There is an adhesive strip all along the edge between the top and bottom of the phone. Is that just adhesive or is it wire of some sort?

    Larry Ingerling - Replica

    @lingerling The adhesive strip was introduced on the iPhone 6s and 6s Plus (one model year later than what’s shown on this page). Guides specific to each model can be found here—be sure to use the correct one for your particular phone. And yes, just adhesive, no wires. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen - Replica

  7. iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 8, immagine 1 di 3 iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 8, immagine 2 di 3 iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 8, immagine 3 di 3
    • Pull the home button end of the front panel assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge.

    • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

    • In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.

    Be careful If we leave the screen connected and set it to 90 degrees, the speaker / sensor flex may break. With an opening of 60 degrees it is convenient to completely disconnect the screen. The headset's flex is short, and if we put it at 90º, it can break. Guiding me from the images of iFixit, I have broken two cables.

    Español:

    Cuidado. Si dejamos la pantalla conectada y lo ponemos a 90 grados, el flex del altavoz/sensor puede romperse. Con una abertura de 60 grados es conveniente desconectar enteramente la pantalla. El flex del auricular es corto, y si lo ponemos en 90º , se puede romper. Guiándome de las imágenes de iFixit, se me han roto dos cables.

    txaukos - Replica

    At 60º the display will block access to all the screws and the phone would be practically unserviceable, so I’m having trouble making sense of this comment. The cables on a factory original display are pretty tough and designed with enough slack that a 90º angle is no problem. Same with any decent aftermarket display.

    Jeff Suovanen - Replica

    If you look at the enlarged image, you can see how the flex cable from the camera / speaker is in tension. This is my opinion. Sorry for my bad English

    Si usted se fija en la imagen ampliada, puede ver cómo el flex cable de la cámara/altavoz está en tensión. Esta es mi opinión.

    Perdón por mi mal inglés

    txaukos - Replica

    your English isn’t the issue, it’s the proposed 60 degree opening space that doesn’t allow for the removal of the screws of the mounting plate where the connectors connect to the main pcb…

    if can make a recommendation here; it helps if the can is full and not refrigerated, the weight helps in keeping the phone where it should stay without adding additional tension to the ‘flex’ ribbon cable. it’s called flex for a reason people, if your breaking these the phones already been overheated too much, the cables become brittle and should also be replaced. i replaced my battery without disconnecting the screen, at 90 degrees with a rubber band around an empty beer can. pierced the orig. battery and caused sparks. albeit, i wasn’t in a hurry and it took me a good 30+ minutes, removal of the battery and stickers is by far the most challenging, especially when NOT disconnecting the screen…

    it’s not a race, take your time. move slowly but precisely with forethought and persistent force…

    circuitbender 477 - Replica

    Werkt dit ook voor iPhone 7(plus)?

    Christina Pegtel - Replica

    Werkt dit hetzelfde voor iPhone 7 (plus)?

    Christina Pegtel - Replica

  8. iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 9, immagine 1 di 2 iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 9, immagine 2 di 2
    • Several clips along the top edge of the front panel form a partial hinge, allowing the front panel assembly to swing open like a book.

    • During reassembly, align the clips just below the top edge of the rear case. Then, slide the front panel upward until its top edge is flush with that of the rear case.

    I would recommend protecting the screen once the display is free and the suction cup has been removed. This will help avoid any possibility of accidental scratching of the display crystal while the remaining steps are being performed. I used an inexpensive screen protector then removed it after reassembling and testing are complete.

    anthonyspampinato - Replica

  9. iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 10, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the following Phillips screws from the battery connector bracket:

    • One 2.3 mm screw

    • One 3.1 mm screw

    for the iPhone 6 Plus, all screws were Phillips #000

    Michael Adams - Replica

    I had difficulty removing the 3.1mm (iPhone 6 Plus / Phillips #000); had to give it significant downward pressure to get it started.

    Allen Matheson - Replica

    stripped the 2.3mm screw attempting to remove, had to use excessive force to successfully remove

    Matthew Gao - Replica

    The Phillips bits provided in the kit would not engage the Phillips heads enough to loosen them. Luckily I had my own small screwdriver set that worked like a charm.

    David Davis - Replica

    Same issue. Could not remove the screw. Dead in the water.

    Tiffany - Replica

    Agree with above comments regarding the supplied Phillips bit. It is not the correct size.

    Use a Phillips #000.

    bobgottner - Replica

    Phillips #000 is what’s included in the kit. As others mentioned above, firm downward pressure is key. The phone is not that delicate; just press hard and crank it.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Is this step necessary ?\

    Asianay - Replica

    @asianay0129 Yes, disconnecting the battery is necessary. You can sometimes get away with skipping it, at the risk of destroying something important and potentially bricking your phone. Not a wise gamble for the sake of skipping two screws.

    Jeff Suovanen - Replica

  10. iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 11, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

    Was not able to remove the battery connector bracket as one of the cable connectors was glued/stuck to the underside. Instead moved the bracket out of the way to disconnect the battery. Care should be taken not to over bend/stretch the ribbon cable.

    dwtan - Replica

    That may be just the foam connector adhering to the bracket. If you pull up gently and twist slightly it should separate.

    Evan Noronha -

    It was the foam connector, and it did twist free with a gentle pull

    Al Taylor - Replica

  11. iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 12, immagine 1 di 1
    • Use a clean fingernail or the edge of an opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    • Take care to only pry up on the battery connector, and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

    you may consider placing a thin non-conductive item between the connector and the socket like a bit of rubber band to prevent any power flowing during this procedure

    Michael Adams - Replica

    It was too close to other parts to pry up with either end of plastic tool. Finally used 1 tine of tweezer to lift edge. Came free easily

    Al Taylor - Replica

    J’ai pris une loupe pour bien observer l’endroit où placer l’outil.

    Paul Briffaut - Replica

    Magnification is key for many tasks and this is certainly one.

    Kenneth Gilbert - Replica

    I couldn’t use the iFixit blue opening tool to pry that battery connector. I used the top of the black spudger near the hole where the 3.1mm screw was in step 9-10 to easily pry it open!

    Alyssa Sayuki - Replica

    The blue plastic board breaker can easily cause damage here. Professionals would recommend using the human fingernail as the ideal tool for this job.

    Jessa Jones - Replica

  12. iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 13, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the following Phillips screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 1.5 mm screw

    • One 2.9 mm screw

    • Do not attempt to insert longer screws into the red marked screw holes. Doing so may result in irreparable damage to the logic board.

    There's an other panel with one screw in the middle.........

    Herbert - Replica

    Sounds like you have an iPhone 6s Plus, rather than a 6 Plus. Be sure to use the correct guide! And make sure you’ve ordered the correct part, as they’re not cross-compatible.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I _love_ the color coding of screws. I know this is a little OCD, but it would be incredibly useful if there were an 8.5 X 11 you could print with indicated homes for where to drop items from each step of disassembly. That is, in the box for step 9, little colored circles for where to place each screw type. As long as you don't jostle the paper, it would make it a lot easier to know exactly where you are in reassembly.

    cscarlson47shop - Replica

    I have done the exact same thing. Created a sheet where each screw goes.

    Chris Murphy -

    I used the 000 bit from the ifixit 54 piece kit.

    hhandh - Replica

    Actually you don’t need to do steps 12 to 18 if you attach the display panel to the iPhone box as shown in step 7 and handle your iPhone with care during the replacement. I didn’t disconnect the display panel mainly because the more you work on the interior of your phone the higher is the chance you break something.

    Dany Castillo - Replica

    Since this guide is for DISPLAY replacement, I don’t see how you can skip the steps for disconnecting and removing the DISPLAY.

    Jim Bateman -

    That's what I was thinking.

    The Wizard - Replica

    I skipped this series of steps too. I was very careful when removing the battery and never had an issue with the screen leaning back against the box that this battery shipped in. I even broke half of the third strip of adhesive but used a plastic card to slide under the battery and it slowly lifted out without applying heat.

    mark - Replica

    I'm having trouble with one screw not wanting to come out. Any suggestions to keep from stripping the head and getting it?

    Patric - Replica

    which screws are which sizes cause i ordered new ones and cant figure it out

    MONsterHEIT - Replica

    I also did not see the need to remove the display assembly for this repair. However I did place a can of corn against the vertically positioned display and then secured the display to the can with a rubber band.

    whiteshephard - Replica

    I recommend removing the display assembly, I didn’t and somehow damaged the home button cable. At least remove the cover to ease the tension on the cables.

    Steve Schlotter - Replica

    I played around with different screwdrivers to get certain screws out. I made sure I wasn’t applying heavy pressure so I wouldn’t strip the head. Apple is crazy for doing this to us lol.

    Anyways invest in a magnetized mat to organize your screws. It was really difficult to keep things organized and still, especially with these tiny screws…

    Jeffrey Robinos - Replica

    what happens if i forgot to put the ribbon cable shield back on? the phone is now working but i forgot to put the shield back on and i am missing 2 screws. can i leave the shield off?

    Fred ticoman. - Replica

    @ticoman12 It’ll work without the shield, but the connectors may pop out unexpectedly.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Just be really careful remembering which screw is which. I drew a quick sketch of the bracket, then put the screws in the relevant places. There’s no way I would have been able to figure them out otherwise - my eyes can’t see the difference between a 1.2 and 1.5mm screw!

    Paul Johnson - Replica

    The most fiddly part of the job.

    Much easier if you put the screwdriver head on the screw and then insert it into the opening. The slight magnetism will hold it in place. Don’t fully tighten a screw until all the screws are in place. Much like installing lug nuts on a car.

    GPZ - Replica

    I also skipped steps 12-18 as Danny had suggested. It made this repair quite easy, so thank you and others for suggesting this. I was also very careful to allow the battery to discharge before starting the process.

    Bruce Platt - Replica

    I question whether Steps 12-18 (separating the display from the case) is actually necessary? The battery can be removed/replaced with the display connected (but standing upright, as displayed in Step 7.

    Leaving the display attached obviates the most difficult steps (re-connecting the various control ribbons — 3/4 of ‘em!

    I followed this manual completely and the repair was successful. But if I had this to do over, I’d leave the display connected.

    Dana Smith - Replica

    I skipped the steps 12-18 as well and thank goodness I did so I won’t have to worry about issues with any of the cables.

    my panel is different from what is pictured anyway ‘cause I have one screw in the middle like what Herbert said on the first comment.

    Maria Filamor-Robinson - Replica

    I realized too late just how handy the magnetic mat is that they have in their shop. So I organized the screws with a piece of clear packing tape. On the smooth side, use a sharpie to draw spacious circles with “R” “O” and “Y” inside each circle to represent the color coded screws and then use the sticky side to keep the screws in place. I found that using the tweezers to take them off the screwdriver helps you stick them head first to the tape better.

    Selena Castillo - Replica

  13. iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 14, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

  14. iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 15, immagine 1 di 2 iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 15, immagine 2 di 2
    • In the next four steps, take care to pry up only on the cable connectors, and not on their sockets on the logic board.

    • While still supporting the front panel, use a fingernail or the edge of an opening tool to disconnect the front-facing camera and earpiece speaker connector.

    Why does the screen need to come off?

    Sterling Coffey (N0SSC) - Replica

    Because the cables are delicate, and following steps are easier if phone halves are not flopping around together, especially for amateurs.

    Matthew Goheen - Replica

    I don't know if anyone will see this but here it goes: for the life of me I can't get the front-facing camera and earpiece speaker connector to seat. Everything else went back together fine but this one connector will not go in. Sometimes it seems like it's in even though it doesn't really pop in and it'll kinda sit there for a sec and then it pops out.

    Any insight would be greatly appreciated, thank you

    Droopy Caledonia - Replica

    Try starting at one end instead of in the middle. It's to easy to bend a connector and this way, I can get a safe start and go from there.

    Rongwey - Replica

  15. iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 16, immagine 1 di 2 iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 16, immagine 2 di 2
    • Disconnect the home button cable connector.

  16. iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 17, immagine 1 di 2 iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 17, immagine 2 di 2
    • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step.

    • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the display data cable connector.

    • When reassembling your phone, the display data cable may pop off the connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery connector.

    The piece of advice about power cycling the phone by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery proved crucial to the success of my repair (camera and lens replacement). At first when charging the phone after closing it, I got a dark, blank screen with an intermittent buzzing noise. After re-opening the phone and making sure all cables had been properly reconnected, I ignored the advice to power cycle the phone. Still all I got was a dark, blank screen (and intermittent buzzing if charging t). Then I opened it a third time (leaving the screen connected and attached at a 90 degree angle) and I only disconnected and reconnected the battery. Voila! When I closed the phone and powered it up, I got the screen to light up!

    Gianni - Replica

    how did you disconnect and reconnect the battery?

    Teresa Trevino - Replica

    If you’ve been following the guide, you already disconnected it in this step. To reconnect it, just line up the connector and press it into place.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    After replacing the battery, the phone seems dead. I thought it just needed recharging so I left it charging all night. Still dead in the morning. Now I think it might be because the display data cable is off, and I should open the phone and check it. But the battery might be on full power in that case, and they don’t advice to open the phone when battery if full. What can I do?

    Ila Awasthi - Replica

  17. iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 18, immagine 1 di 2 iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 18, immagine 2 di 2
    • Finally, disconnect the digitizer cable connector.

    • When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

    some images and guidance regarding reassembly would be helpful. You don't need to use the spudger to get them back on: fingers are better because there's a really subtle click you feel when you get them seated properly.

    cscarlson47shop - Replica

    When you're reassembling, a note that this is the step where you should test for proper screen function would be really useful. First time I reassembled, I didn't seat something properly, got all the screws back together and then realized the screen wasn't functioning properly. Had to disassemble back down to step 14 and then re-reassemble.

    cscarlson47shop - Replica

    I am having this issues right now! I have unplugged and plugged in these cables at least 20 times and each time I get white lines. I finally have it to where there are only 4 white lines and I am almost willing to live with it. Any suggestions?

    mattmay002 -

    Clean the screen connectors incase they are not making a clean connection

    Karen Jones - Replica

    I'm having nightmares with the digitizer connector. Simply can't get it to work unless I'm applying some pressure on the connectors. Everything seems almost microscopically clean. Any suggestions friends?

    Henry A -

    could it be the replacement screen? test with your old screen and see if you have the same problem.

    Charles - Replica

    To ++mattmay002++  Did you power cycle the phone? Check out the comments on the previous step for a how to.

    Robert Liles - Replica

    I had issues with it too. When connecting this cable, make sure to rock finger side to side after connecting. It’s a wide connector so try to listen for 2 clicks on this one connector. That’s how I fixed mine

    Albert Einstein - Replica

    Re-attaching this cable is the only tricky part to replacing the battery on my 6+. It had a bow on the middle that I had to flatten out before pressing the connector on with finger first on one edge and then on the other. I had white tire tracks on the screen and no touch screen until I connected it correctly. The front has to rest in just the right place on the back while attaching this thing so the cables aren’t strained the front doesn’t fall down. Small fingers would be a plus at this step.

    richard - Replica

    Reseating these connectors on reassembly is definitely the most difficult part of this repair. It took me several attempts before the lowermost connector would seat properly and I did accidentally bend it slightly in the process. Fortunately I was able to get it straight again and get it to click in. The other three went in fine though and no lasting damage seems to have been done.

    Andy Gibbons - Replica

    Another thing - These cables can become overlapped in the wrong way and make you think they are in a different order than they should be. Eg. it’s easy to mix up the ones from step 15 and 17. You can actually unravel the cables and re-layer them on top of each other in any order, so remember this! They look like they’re one solid mass but they’re not.

    domarius - Replica

    I never removed the last digitizer connctor. I removed the first three connectors, left the screen propped at 90 deg tied to a box and removed the battery, there is minimal movement. In fact when I reattached the connectors, only the first and maybe second connector feels taut, so it’s necessary to only remove the first connector if you can be gentle with it. Less headache. And my guess why so many people had issues is that micro dust gets into the connectors and cause connection loss. You be surprised how little dust can cause havoc.

    darrcc - Replica

    And forgot one thing, keep a can of air duster woth you to remove as must dust as you can see. A camera air blower will also do nice.

    darrcc - Replica

    I haven’t removed my screen in past battery replacements, I found it easier. However, this time I followed the instructions because my old battery was very stuck, and I needed the screen gone to get the battery out…

    When I replaced the screen, at first it wouldn’t even boot/start up. (Yes, I inserted my own testing step, as someone here suggested, before final reassembly).

    The screen would just show a fuzzy image, and the board that all the cables attach to would heat up, then it would turn itself off. I tried reconnecting them carefully 3 times, and even made sure to get a little “click”, all to no avail.

    The final try, I used my fingernail to really press down on the back side of the digitizer cable. I heard more clicking, though I thought I might be tearing the cable too. With nothing left to lose, I continued across the back, and heard several more clicking/tearing sounds.

    This worked, and it booted after that. It still had white lines, but those faded away overnight.

    Morgan Giddings - Replica

    About the digitizer connector: its flat cable is so short that the when I attempted to seat the next connector, its flat cable pressed on the digitizer cable, which can pull on the connector and dislodge it. That happened several times for me before success.

    Robert Bernard 27 Nov 19

    Robert H Bernard - Replica

    Nous n’apercevons pas bien les nappes et l’ordre dans lesquelles elles doivent être replacer

    Patrick AZOULAY - Replica

  18. iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 19, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

    Never remove the screen without disconnecting the battery. It's possible the back light can be blown and that's a even more difficult repair. Always, ALWAYS, disconnect battery before repairing items. (Unless it's not possible.)

    Marvin Ballard - Replica

    How do you disconnect the battery from the screen?

    Shamil Bhatti -

    The Step 11 disconnects the battery :)

    jeffxtechs - Replica

    I think you mean Step 8 :)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    How do you disconnect the battery

    I tried it once and

    Brian - Replica

    And what? I tried it once and here’s a million dollars?

    Oh I get it… they got him! :(

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlznqpBg...

    domarius -

    When disassembling the iphone at this point note the cables, and there placement/orientation.

    GERARD SZAREK - Replica

    Be really careful with the step after this. Do not commence until you have read all the comments. You need to get a good hold of the plastic strips preferably before they double over on themselves. You have to avoid puncturing the battery at all costs. Slowness and caution here will save you a lot of long term pain.

    Laura Houghton - Replica

  19. iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement, Earpiece Speaker: passo 20, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the following Phillips screws securing the upper component bracket:

    • One 1.5 mm screw

    • Two 2.3 mm screws

    Nice move, which can stop the bracket from falling down.quite detailed instruction. but you should choice an excellent front facing camera and sensor before the replacement.

    William - Replica

    Attempted this repair and my touch screen completely stopped working. Great walkthrough, but not sure what I did wrong in the repair to cause my issue.

    surfincubus86 - Replica

    Hi I've had exactly the same problem, what was your solution to this? would be very helpful!

    Iona -

    I had the same issue. My screen quit working and I could feel heat coming through my phone at the earpiece. I took the phone apart again and realized that the data cable for the screen had come loose. When I reattached the data cable and starting working steps 12-18 backwards to replace the shield, as noted in the very last step, I see that youhave to keep the screen at an inclinewhen replacing the shield over the cables. Otherwise, you stretch the display data cable and it can come loose. My screen works fine now and there is no heat coming from my earpiece.

    Angela Hall -

    Just completed this repair. My front facing microphone next to the ear piece had gone bad causing siri to not hear me and front facing videos had no sound. Definitely reccomend getting replacement parts from ifixit. Have had good experiences with all their parts unlike many other suppliers on the internet. Hate to admit it (don't want them to raise prices) but even though you pay a little bit more, you save frustration not getting DOA parts from cheaper sources. All of ifixit's parts are top quality and they even pack them in anti-static packaging. That says alot. Thanks ifixit!

    sherwood7 - Replica

    Great instructions save the later steps. The ear speaker piece having to bend 180 degrees for the installation needs more clarification.

    howchewdoin - Replica

    After this repair, my screen quit working and I could feel heat coming through my phone at the earpiece. I took the phone apart again and realized that the data cable for the screen had come loose. When I reattached the data cable and starting working steps 12-18 backwards to replace the shield, as noted in the very last step, I see that you have to keep the screen at an incline when replacing the shield over the cables. Otherwise, you stretch the display data cable and it can come loose. My screen works fine now and there is no heat coming from my earpiece.

    Angela Hall - Replica

    The middle screw, listed as a 2.3mm was actually a 2.9mm in my iPhone 6 Plus

    Matthew Goheen - Replica

  20. iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 21, immagine 1 di 1
    • Lift and remove the earpiece bracket from the display assembly.

  21. iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 22, immagine 1 di 1
    • Use a the flat end of a spudger to pry up the front-facing camera and display cables, and gently push them aside.

  22. iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 23, immagine 1 di 1
    • Use a pair of tweezers to firmly grasp and remove the earpiece speaker from the display assembly.

  23. iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement, Front Facing Camera and Sensor Assembly: passo 24, immagine 1 di 2 iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement, Front Facing Camera and Sensor Assembly: passo 24, immagine 2 di 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to gently pry up the sensor cable assembly from its recess in the display assembly.

    • The cable is held in place with a mild adhesive.

    Use a hair dryer to pre-heat and soften the adhesive. Otherwise, damage to the flex cable can occur.

    Rajat Sewal - Replica

  24. iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 25, immagine 1 di 2 iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 25, immagine 2 di 2
    • Pry the microphone portion of the front-facing camera and sensor cables from the display assembly.

    Das Mikrofonkabel ist mit einem Klebeband am Display besfestigt und muss durch anwärmen weich gemacht werden. Sonst besteht die Gefahr, dass beim Abziehen das Flachbandkabel beschädigt wird. Gruß Mike

    Mike - Replica

    Bei meinem iPhone 6 Plus hörte das Kabel direkt vor der Gummiumrandung und nach dem Mikrofon auf. Auch das Ersatzteil ging nur bis dahin. Man musste also den Teil mit der Gummiumrandung nicht ablösen.

    gaby - Replica

  25. iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 26, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the front-facing camera and sensor cable assembly off the display assembly.

    • Replacement assemblies may or may not come with the speaker mesh already attached. If it's missing, save your old one and re-use it. You can separate it with some heat from a hair dryer and gentle prying or pulling with tweezers.

  26. iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement, Home Button Assembly: passo 27, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the two 1.8 mm Phillips screws securing the home button bracket to the front panel.

    This guide is pointless, iPhone 6/6 plus home button is not replaceable, period.

    Tom Chai - Replica

    Yes it is absolutely replaceable. You need to remember it is a encrypted security feature, so you'll need the apple ID or password to regain control again if replaced. That's the whole point to secure your data.

    Mike -

    Yes, the iPhone 6 and 6 Plus home buttons are replaceable. I do several replacements for customers and they work just fine with one exception. The fingerprint reader around the home button does not work after replacing the home button

    BrentTaylorBA - Replica

    Hi Brent, I have a iPhone 6 plus with a shattered screen to repair and the home button is gone. You have said that you've been able to replace the home buttons successfully. I was wondering how you got past the error 53 problem when restoring it? Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated.

    arcadian212 -

    Error 53 was resolved by Apple with an iOS update, so fortunately this is no longer an issue! As others have stated, it's perfectly possible to replace the home button, but you will lose fingerprint sensor functionality (the original sensor is paired to your iPhone's logic board at the factory, and only Apple can pair a new one).

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Why does that make it pointless? The guide is geared towards screen replacement, with the intent of using the original home button and a new screen. It clearly states this. What about this guide is pointless? It's actually very helpful.

    abyss478 - Replica

    Warning: The iphone 6 will brick after a restore if the home button is replaced. I agree with the other commenters that it is not a replaceable part because of this issue. If you try to restore the iPhone 6 after replacing the home button it will get stuck in recovery mode and give error 53 when a restore is attempted. I learned this the hard way! Please be careful and don't restore your phone if you do this repair.

    max - Replica

    What did you do after your phone got stuck in recovery mode ?

    Lynn -

    I had an error 53 when trying to restore a iphone 6 plus.

    I bought a new heat shield with flex ribbon attached and installing that allowed me to get a restore complete.

    steve - Replica

    I couldn't get my fingerprint reader to work after following this guide. I ended up taking the phone back apart and replacing the new screens' backing plate and the attached home button cable with the old, original one and now the fingerprint sensor works!

    fsharp320 - Replica

    The little square rubber gaskets that cloak the mounting holes (little square nubs at the bottom of the picture in Step 19) for the Pentalobe Screws in Step 1 above had a tendency to fall off the screen. Further, if replacing the screen, these should also accompany the other items transferred to the new screen. This is just a small oversight I have seen from this repair guide, otherwise, smooth as silk.

    Justin - Replica

    The connector seemed a bit raised after re-assembling, I noticed after pressing the bracket down on in preparation for screwing in. I don’t know if it’s normal for it to have a slightly raised feeling but it was noticeable. Enough to make me wonder if it’s too much pressure on it once it’s screwed together.

    domarius - Replica

  27. iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 28, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the home button bracket from the front panel assembly.

    buen día, cuando no me reconoce el touch id pero el boton si hace la función de botón ejemplo si me envía a home pero no reconoce el alcance fácil dos toques no reconoce el lector biométrico

    Yamir Maximino - Replica

  28. iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 29, immagine 1 di 2 iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 29, immagine 2 di 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the home button connector from its socket on the home button cable.

    Will disabling and removing fingerprint passcode thru settings software wise prior to repair or starting the replacement, will this feature with a new replacement home button resolve the error 53 or the repairer need to use the original home button sensor with the correct fingerprint stored in the tiny small chip ? I have replaced a gsm iPhone 6S not plus screen making sure that not to tear off the sensor chip successfully repaired. -Joan

    JOAN E. VERGARA - Replica

    Hi Joan! If I am understanding your question correctly, disabling the fingerprint passcode prior to repair WILL NOT result in Touch ID working after the repair. You should look at Jeff Suovanen's comment at the bottom, as he explains the two ways to keep Touch ID working. In order to keep Touch ID working, you will need to find a logic board that is paired with the home button and replace both of those components.

    Scott Havard -

    When reassembling this display connector, you must fold the new connector down into and against the plastic base in order to line up the sockets. The original connector cable is adhered to the screen, the replacement sticks straight out.

    Bret Hoffman - Replica

    • Carefully wedge the tip of a spudger underneath the home button connector cable.

    • Gently move the spudger across to separate the home button connector cable from the adhesive securing it to the front panel assembly.

    • If the cable doesn't separate easily, apply heat using an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive, and try again. Be careful not to damage the cable.

    Es necesario calentar para que se desprenda de una forma comoda

    Yamir Maximino - Replica

    i found using a needle works well too, as the fine point of the needle will be able to get under the adhesive and i can gently separate it.

    Charles - Replica

    heat thoroughly with a hair dryer. (away from your work area so you don't blast your parts all over the place!) pops right off.

    edwardlyman - Replica

    • The rubber gasket surrounding the home button is very thin and tears easily.

    • Apply mild heat (with an iOpener, heat gun, or hair dryer) to soften the adhesive securing the home button gasket.

    • Using your fingertip, gently press up on the home button from the front side of the display assembly. Use firm, constant pressure to slowly separate the home button's rubber gasket from the front panel.

  29. iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 32, immagine 1 di 2 iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 32, immagine 2 di 2
    • Carefully use the tip of a spudger to finish separating the home button from the front panel.

    The little rubber gasket seems to be a moisture seal. It isn’t glued down but over time it seals itself to the display. Pushing the spudger around underneath simply breaks the bond between the two surfaces. Be sure to do it carefully so as not to tear it.

    bichmgnt - Replica

  30. iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 33, immagine 1 di 1
    • Lift and remove the home button assembly off the front panel assembly.

    So this fix is hardware only? Do I need to disable the touch ID feature before removal and wWhat do I do next to get the touch ID feature to function?

    Dasteufelhund - Replica

    After removing the home button, remove the two black rubber bumpers from the ‘Pentalobe Screw’ mount brackets and transfer them to the new screen, this helps secure the home button in place and screw tension.

    James_P - Replica

  31. iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement, LCD and Digitizer: passo 34, immagine 1 di 2 iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement, LCD and Digitizer: passo 34, immagine 2 di 2
    • Remove the two 1.7 mm Phillips screws (one on top and one on bottom) securing the LCD shield plate to the display assembly.

  32. iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 35, immagine 1 di 2 iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 35, immagine 2 di 2
    • Remove three 1.3 mm Phillips screws from each side of the LCD shield plate (six total).

    The required tools list specifies a phillips #000 screwdriver, but this section indicates #00 sized screws. Can some confirm for me the actual size of the screws? If they are #00, I see the screwdrivers for this size come in 1.5 mm and 2.5 mm versions. Which should I get?

    Sidney Burton - Replica

    If you’re using iFixit bits, either the #000 or the #00 will work fine here. Bit sizes are not standardized across manufacturers, so if you’re using tools from another vendor you’ll just have to test as you go.

    Jeff Suovanen -

  33. iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 36, immagine 1 di 2 iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 36, immagine 2 di 2
    • The next step requires peeling one end of the home button cable (highlighted in red in the second picture) that is affixed to the back of the display assembly with strong adhesive. We highly recommend using an iOpener to heat the bottom of the display assembly, directly on top of the home button.

    you can remove this by using the smallest flat screw driver bit you have. Using the supplied picture as reference start at the lower left hand corner and push gently between the connector ribbon and the case. The glue easily separated for me.

    GERARD SZAREK - Replica

    Do not peel off the ribbon cable!

    You should take off small rectangular metal plate on which connector is. The glue is between the metal and plastic body.

    Use a sharp needle at the lower left corner.

    peoplewide - Replica

  34. iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 37, immagine 1 di 3 iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 37, immagine 2 di 3 iPhone 6 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: passo 37, immagine 3 di 3
    • Carefully lift—but do not remove—the LCD shield plate by lifting the end nearest the earpiece speaker a few millimeters from the display assembly.

    • Gently lift the other end (nearest the home button) to peel the home button cable off the display assembly.

    • Be extremely cautious as you peel the home button cable. It is a fragile cable. If you feel more than slight resistance, we recommend reheating and reusing the iOpener to soften the adhesive.

    • Remove the LCD shield plate off the display assembly.

    • Display assembly remains.

Conclusione

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Altre 220 persone hanno completato questa guida.

11 Commenti

I know this is a old guide but i have a question. My iphone was screen broken and i change it with a original complete iphone screen, the home button works fine but the touch id dont work. I change the home button to the one that i have in the broken screen and still the touch id dont work. What can i do to fix the touch id?

Juanjo Checo - Replica

Help! The home button cable attached to the metal front panel ripped a little as I was gently using my fingers to lift it off the screen. Now the home button doesn't work. Did I ruin the phone or is it possible to get a front panel?

Merry Hansen - Replica

I recently purchased this iFixit kit for my iPhone 6 Plus replacement of my screen that was cracked. I followed the instructions above, and my phone won't turn on. There is a part in to the right of the battery, just below the screen connections, that is really hot. After I noticed it wouldn't turn on, even after plugging it in, I took it back apart, and reseated the connections again. It still doesn't work. I will not purchase this kit again.

Dustin Klumb - Replica

Bought this recently and I must say that I'm a little bit disappointed:

- the screen doesn't fit as before, you can feel a rough edge - I tried 4 times to put it correctly watching many video tutorials and I had the same result so I assume it's because it's not an original screen

- the colours are not the same anymore, looks like the saturation is on a lower setting - can't see the bright colours anymore

Overall I would rate this part 6 out of 10.

andrewbuta - Replica

Followed this guide to the letter about 1 week ago. Happy to say its very accurate and my iphone is working 100%

Most difficult and time consuming part was re-inserting the front-facing camera and sensor cable assembly (Step 25) and also removing the home button cable (step 36)

morjo21 - Replica

I’ve just completed this guide successfully using replacement parts I’ve ordered with ifixit in Europe. To my own surprise, everything is working: both cameras, home button, fingerprint scanner and id. Just great. I didn’t have the iSclack tool so I just used the suction cup. Also, I had to use a hair dryer instead of the iOpener tool, and it worked great even with the home button cable, just go gentle and give the heat some time to soften up the adhesive. Thanks for the great guide.

Georg Federmann - Replica

Is this for if it don’t light up? because mine won’t come on.

Hunter Rowland - Replica

My iPhone was entered water and I took it to engineer and he said water has spoil the panel, he said I should order for new panel ,does it work if I change the panel.

Adeniran tope David - Replica

You did not talk about removing eye lens casing. This is the most pain when trying to put back the bracket back.

Chathura Gunawardana - Replica

you guys rock - thank you!

benmansfield.mach1 - Replica

I just said F it and use a Windows phone that I can mod myself

mxcombust - Replica

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