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Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi

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  1. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi, Riscaldamento iOpener: passo 1, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi, Riscaldamento iOpener: passo 1, immagine 2 di 2
    • Ti raccomandiamo di pulire il tuo forno a microonde prima dell'operazione, perché ignobili entità unte e appiccicose potrebbero attaccarsi all'iOpener.

    • Disponi l'iOpener al centro del tuo forno a microonde.

    • Per forni a microonde con piatto rotante: assicurati che il piatto giri liberamente. Se l'iOpener si incastrasse da qualche parte, potrebbe surriscaldarsi e bruciare.

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Replica

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Replica

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Replica

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Replica

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Replica

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - Replica

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - Replica

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - Replica

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - Replica

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - Replica

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - Replica

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Replica

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - Replica

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - Replica

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 - Replica

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis - Replica

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R - Replica

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam - Replica

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt - Replica

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug - Replica

    I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

    The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

    Richard O'Brien - Replica

    No, everyone does not have a hairdryer. Some of us don’t even have hair. Thank goodness I already had an IR thermometer, though.

    nin10doh -

    #### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

    Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

    T z - Replica

    I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

    Mizzoo, s.r.o. - Replica

    I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

    Randal Haufler - Replica

    I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

    janderson martin - Replica

    WARNING - DO NOT MICROWAVE ON A METAL MICROWAVE RACK

    The metal microwave rack can heat up and melt through the iOpener cover letting the contents leak out.

    Not a big issue for me as I have a heat gun and used that instead.

    Run Up A Tree - Replica

    I opened my iPad with the iOpener. Be patient! It may take quite a bit longer to it the iOpener in the microwave than it says in the guide. My microwave can only do 800W and I had to put the iOpener in several times (maybe a total of 90-120 seconds). I recommend that you have the transparent side up an watch the bag carefully. As long a the bag doesn't bloat up and the liquid doesn't start bubbling you should be fine. But I recommend to take the iO out from time to time to check it. (More comments in Step 6.)

    marcelflueeler - Replica

    I gave upon the I opener and used a hairdryer. (Fixed an iPad 6)

    Tom Weber - Replica

    iPad mini gen5. I used the iOpener. My microwave is 1200w with carousel. 30 sec got the iOpener to 155ºF. For the 2nd heating, after 10 minutes sitting, the temp was still around 125º so I only cooked it for 15 sec. Not enough increase so +5 sec more which me to 165-170ºF. This should be considered ballpark info because who knows the real output of the various microwaves and the quality of the IR tool used to determine temp.

    To successfully open my iPad mini I applied the iOpener twice to the left edge and twice to bottom. & once to R edge. Using the suction cup was difficult for me (I'm in my 70's so my hands don't work too well anymore). I had trouble holding the guitar pick and slipping them in (at an downward angle). In the end, sliding my thumbnail along the edge opened it very slightly and allowed the pick to get into the gap. I marked the ends of all my picks with a sharpie pen for the recommended 2mm insertion to avoid going in too deep. To get the screen open it took me approx 1 hour.

    jharrison - Replica

    Can’t you just use a hair curler instead?

    Aspect22 - Replica

    A hairdryer or heat gun works, if heating is kept around 100 deg C (212 deg F - boiling point of water). But… heating this way is cumbersome. Using a hotplate, set to 100 deg C, measured carefully with a fairly inexpensive IR gun, is simpler and easier, if you can afford the hotplate (I used an old pancake griddle with a thermostat knob). It works great for phones, setting them face down for 2 minutes, then picking them up with insulated gloves - cheap, wool gloves work fine. This may require repeated reheating to continue the display removal, but its much simpler.

    Because its almost impossible to repeatedly lay an iPad/tablet on the hot plate, I propose an alternative.

    Initially lay the larger iPad/tablet, face down, for 2 min, to heat all of the adhesive surrounding the display. Lift and begin the picking process describe in your removal steps. Then lay an iOpener on the hotplate for 2 min (already set to the exact, desired temp) to bring it to working temp for the remaining operations.

    Dan Smith - Replica

    For iPads in particular, it makes sense to construct a simple, aluminum window frame, laid on a hotplate (see my comment above) that only touches the edges of the display, heating only the adhesive underneath. This prevents general heating of the entire device. Four strips of aluminum, placed together as a frame, would be the simplest and allow variations for all devices - envision it as a pinwheel of strips, radiating outward. Use it for any size device.

    Dan Smith - Replica

    BTW, always read all comments at each step. New, and possibly useful, suggestions appear on occasion that can be crucial.

    Dan Smith - Replica

  2. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 2, immagine 1 di 1
    • Riscalda l'iOpener per 30 secondi.

    • Se durante la riparazione l'iOpener si raffredda, scaldalo di nuovo nel microonde per altri 30 secondi.

    • Fai attenzione a non surriscaldare l'iOpener durante l'operazione. Il surriscaldamento potrebbe far esplodere l'iOpener. Non scaldare sopra i 100°C (212°F)

    • Non toccare mai l'iOpener se appare gonfio.

    • Se l'iOpener è ancora troppo caldo in mezzo per poterlo toccare, continua a utilizzarlo mentre attendi che si raffreddi un po' prima di scaldarlo di nuovo. Un iOpener riscaldato correttamente dovrebbe rimanere caldo fino a 10 minuti.

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Replica

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Replica

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Replica

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Replica

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Replica

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Replica

    I agree with this.

    Jarl Friis -

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Replica

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - Replica

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - Replica

    Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you

    Collins -

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - Replica

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - Replica

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - Replica

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - Replica

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Miesch -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Replica

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    Get a heat gun.

    alesha adamson - Replica

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis - Replica

    I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

    cvela90 - Replica

    After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3

    Collins - Replica

    It appeared 30 seconds were not enough, so I heated it more, by 5 seconds at a time until I got the right temperature about 70 degrees Celsius (measured with infrared pistol) to get the screen heated up to 60 C, the best for softening the glue. But the heat was quickly dissipating by the big aluminum back cover, so the best I got in 2 minutes of applying iOpener was around 45 C, which made the procedure difficult and having risk of breaking the screen. So I eventually abandoned iOpener and user a hot air gun with precise temperature setup. I set it to 90 C, which allowed me to open my iPad quickly and safely.

    Sergey Kofanov - Replica

    I, too, ended up using a hot air gun. I’ve done earlier versions of iPad before but the adhesive used on this IPad 5 A1822 was particularly difficult to remove.

    Also, while the suction cup worked great when the glass is in tact, any cracks in the glass make the suction cup useless.

    manningrl - Replica

    You need to remember here are different sizes of microwaves. I had the same issue.

    Heating on a smaller unit I used 45-60 seconds. That worked but was time comsuming

    William Draheim - Replica

    Yeah, the iOpener didn't work for me either.... ended up using a hair dryer and that worked. The iOpener was too warm to soften the glue in my case.

    Andrés Vettori - Replica

  3. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 3, immagine 1 di 1
    • Rimuovi l'iOpener dal forno a microonde, afferrandolo per una delle due estremità piatte per evitare il contatto con la parte centrale calda.

    • L'iOpener sarà davvero caldissimo, perciò fai attenzione quando lo maneggi. Usa una presina da forno, se necessario.

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Replica

    I did too, you get far more control and no expense on fancy equipment.

    Billinski -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - Replica

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - Replica

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - Replica

    This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

    Mark - Replica

    If the maximum temperature for this iOpener is lower than the gadget glue minimum temperature, this device does not make sense.
    I think the maximum temperature for this iOpener is below 100⁰C and most gadget glue minimum temperature is higher than 100⁰C. So the iOpener is useless for many opening steps in repair guides. But who knows because temperature range is not specified for this iOpener.

    Jarl Friis - Replica

  4. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi, Metodo di riscaldamento alternativo per l'iOpener: passo 4, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi, Metodo di riscaldamento alternativo per l'iOpener: passo 4, immagine 2 di 2
    • Se non hai un microonde, segui questo passo per scaldare il tuo iOpener in acqua bollente.

    • Riempi una pentola o una padella con abbastanza acqua per immergerci un iOpener.

    • Scalda l'acqua finché non bolle. Spegni il fuoco.

    • Posiziona l'iOpener nell'acqua calda per 2-3 minuti. Assicurati che l'iOpener sia completamente immerso nell'acqua.

    • Usa delle pinze per estrarre l'iOpener scaldato dall'acqua calda.

    • Asciuga accuratamente l'iOpener con un asciugamano.

    • L'iOpener sarà molto caldo, quindi fai attenzione e tienilo solo dalle linguette alle estremità.

    • Il tuo iOpener è pronto all'uso! Se devi scaldare di nuovo l'iOpener, scalda l'acqua fino all'ebollizione, spegni il fuoco e immergi l'iOpener in acqua per 2-3 minuti.

    What do I do if I don’t have a iopener?

    alexdelarge103@gmail.com - Replica

    Use a hair dryer

    Edited To the max - Replica

    2 or 3 cups Rice in a sock, heat for about 2 minutes. But, I recommend the iopener.

    Robert Garcia - Replica

    When boiling in water you can put the iopener in a ziplock to keep it dry.

    Robert Garcia - Replica

    Even if you don't put in a ziplock bag, I found that the surface is mostly hydrophobic so drying it is very easy. I also didn't have tongs, but the bag is denser than water, so it sank and I attached clothes pins to the ends and was able to remove it with those.

    Jack Adrian Zappa - Replica

    2-3 minutes in near boiling water, then 2-3 minutes on my s10+ and it was super easy to cut the glue off.

    Kipras Bielinskas - Replica

    I have a question, if I have a pan, and I have water, and a mean to boil the water, won't it be easier and cheaper to just use that.

    Ollie Tan - Replica

    Have you tried it? Water limits your temperature to 100℃, whereas 'pan on the stove' can easily get up to twice that. If your pan is even slightly warped, you'll have a few hot spots of direct conduction with convection everywhere else, heating things unevenly. Assuming you get the device up to temperature, how will you get it out without scratching it or burning yourself? After you're finished, do you really want to prepare food in the pan you warmed up adhesives and trace manufacturing substances in?

    .

    Boiling something form fitting to heat your device with is a lot more foolproof, and not being foolish is easier and cheaper. Direct pan heating can work, but you are leaving yourself open to a lot more problems than just taking the safe route.

    James Beegle -

  5. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi, Schermatura LCD: passo 5, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi, Schermatura LCD: passo 5, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi, Schermatura LCD: passo 5, immagine 3 di 3
    • Se il tuo vetro è rotto, evita di romperlo ulteriormente e di tagliarti con le schegge coprendolo con del nastro adesivo.

    • Applica delle strisce di nastro adesivo trasparente da pacchi sul vetro, una sopra l'altra, finché non è completamente coperto.

    • Ciò conterrà le schegge di vetro e manterrà l'integrità strutturale quando dovrai fare leva e sollevare lo schermo.

    • Fai del tuo meglio per seguire il resto della guida come descritto. Comunque, una volta rotto il vetro, continuerà a rompersi mentre ci lavori e potresti dover usare uno strumento di apertura in metallo per rimuovere il vetro.

    • Indossa degli occhiali protettivi per proteggere gli occhi e stai attento a non danneggiare il pannello LCD.

    Need some extra instruction on how to handle a truly shattered glass. There was only one spot that the suction cup would even hold on the whole screen - top right, and even with tape there is very little structure to drive a pick under. how do you handle that?

    Greg Crawford - Replica

  6. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 6, immagine 1 di 1
    • Prendendolo dalle alette, appoggia l'iOpener scaldato sul bordo a sinistra del tasto Home dell'iPad.

    • Lascia l'iOpener appoggiato per circa cinque minuti per ammorbidire l'adesivo sotto il vetro.

    Can you explain how using the iOpener ? That's can be great !

    Matthieu Nasri - Replica

    The iOpener used is essentially a bag of gel, which you put in the microwave for 30 seconds. You lay this against the screen edges to transfer heat and loosen up the glue.

    You could also use a hot-air blower with a re-work station but that's up to you. Mine worked well up to 150°C

    Sam Attwood -

    what about heating a cloth bag filled with rice in the microwave? Would that work?

    SkipR - Replica

    That might work! Rice is less likely to get, and stay, hot enough. But it can't hurt to try! Just be sure you're being patient and letting it really warm up before you pry. People have had luck double bagging a washcloth dipped in very hot water, too.

    Sam Goldheart -

  7. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 7, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 7, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 7, immagine 3 di 3
    • Applica con cura una ventosa al centro del bordo scaldato.

    • Assicurati che la ventosa sia completamente piatta sullo schermo per avere la miglior presa.

    • Mentre tieni fermo l'iPad con una mano, tira verso l'alto la ventosa per separare leggermente il vetro dalla scocca.

    • Assicurati di sollevare il vetro giusto il necessario per infilarci un plettro: se lo sollevi di più potresti romperlo.

    I'm having trouble getting the suction cup to stay connected to the screen to pull it. It just isn't creating a seal no matter how flat I make it. I thought maybe the crack was causing it, so I tried tape. I originally didn't put tape on it because it wasn't losing glass. The tape made it worse of creating a seal. Any advice?

    William - Replica

    After following instructions to cover cracked glass with packing tape, the suction cup won’t adhere at all. Not even a little bit. Any suggestions?

    Brian Tate - Replica

    I had that exact problem when I fixed an Iphone 8. What I did was that I put some ducktape where the suction cup would be placed. That worked for me. That’s of course is if you where doing to replace the glass anyway.

    Pontus Sennerstam -

    I had a screen on an iPad 4 that was so shattered that I literally had to spend 2.5 hours picking every single piece of glass out with tweezers after pulling the few larger pieces off with tape on them. Sometimes you need a lot of patience to be successful. The final cleaning out of the sticky tape along the sides is also very important once the glass is removed. Or the new screen will stick out an/or not go in neatly.

    Michael Burger - Replica

    I also had a problem getting the suction cup to adhere. Tried tape, no luck until I added some KY jelly, which did the trick.

    cskilton - Replica

  8. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 8, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 8, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 8, immagine 3 di 3
    • Mentre tieni sollevato il vetro con la ventosa, infila la punta di un plettro nella fessura tra il vetro e la scocca dell'iPad.

    • Non infilare il plettro oltre la cornice nera del vetro. Inserendolo a profondità maggiore, potresti danneggiare il pannello LCD.

    • Tira la sporgenza sulla ventosa per rilasciarla e rimuovila dal gruppo dello schermo.

    Could I use some guitar picks? If so, what gauge (thickness) of a picks should I get?

    SkipR - Replica

    I'm not sure what the correct balance of thickness to strength you'd need, maybe try a couple different types. The idea is to be thin and fit into the smallest gap, but if it gets bogged down in adhesive, it needs to be strong enough to push through. Be sure to use heat and be patient!

    Sam Goldheart -

    i have to use a blow dryer and pack that came with the replacement is there anything i could do to make the adhesive more hot?

    Ace of Spades - Replica

  9. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 9, immagine 1 di 1
    • Riscalda e riappoggia l'iOpener.

    • Stai attento a non surriscaldare l'iOpener durante la riparazione. Aspetta sempre almeno dieci minuti prima di riscaldare nuovamente l'iOpener.

    • Lascialo appoggiato per qualche minuto per riscaldare il bordo sinistro dell'iPad.

    Well if you want to save some time and your screen is shattered just pry up one corner either left or right side at the top and tear the whole screen off going down towards the home button but do not completely remove the screen there is a wire connecting the digitizer to the board inside but tearing off the screen will skip you down to step 29 :-) i seen this in a video and saved me about an hour after the fact because my screen was cracking as i was inserting the blue picks so i ripped the whole screen off and used some adhesive remover to get off all the extra goo leftover

    Chris Grayden - Replica

  10. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 10, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 10, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 10, immagine 3 di 3
    • Infila un secondo plettro accanto al primo e fallo scorrere sotto il bordo dell'iPad verso l'angolo inferiore per tagliare l'adesivo.

    • Durante tutta la procedura, se incontri troppa resistenza mentre fai scorrere i plettri sotto il vetro, fermati e riscalda la parte sulla quale stai lavorando. Fare troppa forza con i plettri può rompere il vetro.

    I found that all the following step were much easier for me using a heat gun while keeping the pull on the screen with the suction cup. Basically heat up a section, put the suction cup on, keep pulling the screen upwards on that side, while using the heat gun to continuously heat along the side. It came nicely off, one or two inches at a time. Once I had a whole side up, I just put some of the picks in to keep it up and continued along the side, heating, pulling, heating pulling. This obviously only works if the screen is not totally shattered. Mine only had two cracks.

    Michael Burger - Replica

  11. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 11, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 11, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 11, immagine 3 di 3
    • Continua a far scorrere il plettro verso il basso dello schermo per tagliare l'adesivo.

    • Se il plettro si incastra nell'adesivo, "ruotalo" attorno al bordo dell'iPad per rilasciare l'adesivo.

  12. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 12, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 12, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 12, immagine 3 di 3
    • Prendi il primo plettro che hai inserito e fallo scorrere sotto il vetro verso l'angolo superiore dell'iPad.

    • Se vedi la punta del plettro sotto il vetro, niente panico: semplicemente tira un po' indietro il plettro. Probabilmente tutto funzionerà ancora, ma cerca di evitare che succeda per evitare di depositare sul pannello LCD dell'adesivo, che sarà poi difficile da rimuovere.

  13. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 13, immagine 1 di 1
    • Scalda di nuovo l'iOpener e appoggialo al bordo superiore dell'iPad, sopra la fotocamera frontale.

    • Stai attento a non surriscaldare l'iOpener durante la riparazione. Aspetta sempre almeno dieci minuti prima di riscaldare nuovamente l'iOpener.

    • Se hai un iOpener flessibile, puoi piegarlo in modo da scaldare sia il bordo superiore sia l'angolo superiore sinistro allo stesso tempo.

  14. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 14, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 14, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 14, immagine 3 di 3
    • Fai scorrere il plettro attorno all'angolo in alto a sinistra dell'iPad per tagliare l'adesivo.

  15. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 15, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 15, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 15, immagine 3 di 3
    • Fai scorrere il plettro lungo il bordo superiore dell'iPad, fermandoti prima di raggiungere la fotocamera.

    • La terza immagine mostra dove sono posizionati nell'iPad la fotocamera frontale e il suo supporto.

    • Evita di passare il plettro sopra la fotocamera frontale: potresti sporcare la lente con l'adesivo o danneggiare la fotocamera. I prossimi passaggi ti mostreranno come evitare al meglio di interferire con la camera frontale.

  16. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 16, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 16, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 16, immagine 3 di 3
    • Tira leggermente indietro il plettro e fai scorrere solo l'estremità della punta oltre la sezione della fotocamera frontale.

  17. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 17, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 17, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 17, immagine 3 di 3
    • Lascia il plettro infilato nell'iPad appena oltre la fotocamera frontale.

    • Prendi un altro plettro e infilalo a sinistra della fotocamera, dove sei già passato con il primo plettro. Fai scorrere questo plettro tornando indietro verso l'angolo in alto a sinistra per tagliare l'adesivo rimasto.

    • Lascia il secondo plettro infilato sotto l'angolo per evitare che l'adesivo si reincolli.

  18. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 18, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 18, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 18, immagine 3 di 3
    • Reinfila più a fondo nell'iPad il primo plettro e fallo scorrere allontanandolo dalla fotocamera verso l'angolo a destra.

    If you have the LTE there is a cable on the right upper side! There’s no mention of this in this guide even though it’s for the LTE. I found out after the fact when I saw I cut the cable with the pick.

    Will Lyon - Replica

    Will Lyon, you may want to look again. This is the guide for the WiFi version.

    mcr4u2 -

  19. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 19, immagine 1 di 1
    • Lascia i tre plettri sotto gli angoli dell'iPad per evitare che l'adesivo si reincolli.

    • Scalda ldi nuovo 'iOpener e appoggialo al rimanente lato lungo dell'iPad, quello destro dove ci sono i tasti di accensione e del volume.

  20. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 20, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 20, immagine 2 di 2
    • Fai scorrere il plettro nell'angolo in alto a destra attorno all'angolo per tagliare completamente l'adesivo.

    • Lascia il plettro in questa posizione per evitare che l'adesivo si reincolli e prepara un altro plettro per il prossimo passaggio.

  21. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 21, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 21, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 21, immagine 3 di 3
    • Infila il plettro che hai preparato sotto l'angolo in alto a destra e fallo scorrere verso il centro del bordo destro dell'iPad per tagliare l'adesivo.

    This is not an LTE ipad mini 3, it is a wifi ipad mini 3

    lordofmordor - Replica

  22. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 22, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 22, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 22, immagine 3 di 3
    • Continua a far scorrere il plettro fino all'angolo in basso a sinistra per tagliare l'adesivo.

  23. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 23, immagine 1 di 1
    • Lascia i plettri sotto gli angoli e scalda di nuovo l'iOpener.

    • Ricorda di non surriscaldare l'iOpener: non scaldarlo più di una una volta ogni dieci minuti.

    • Appoggia l'iOpener riscaldato al bordo inferiore dell'iPad, sopra il tasto Home, e lascialo lì per qualche minuto per ammorbidire l'adesivo sotto il vetro.

    For those who are replacing a severely shattered front panel, be aware that there are two smart cover magnets attached to the interior side of the front panel that you will need later. Keep an eye out for them (see steps 49 and 50 below for pictures of what these tiny magnets look like) so that you don't have to go digging through the debris later.

    Jeff G - Replica

  24. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 24, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 24, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 24, immagine 3 di 3
    • Fai scorrere il plettro sotto l'angolo in basso a sinistra attorno all'angolo per tagliare l'adesivo.

    • Lascia il plettro sotto l'angolo. Non andare oltre e non rimuovere il plettro dall'iPad.

    • Ci sono alcune componenti da evitare sotto il bordo inferiore, quindi presta attenzione alla terza immagine:

    • Antenne

    • Alloggio tasto Home

    • Cavo digitizer

    • I prossimi passaggi ti mostreranno dove fare leva per evitare queste componenti. Scalda e fai leva solo dove indicato.

  25. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 25, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 25, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 25, immagine 3 di 3
    • Lasica dove si trova il plettro che hai usato neell'ultimo passo dove si trova per evitare che l'adesivo si reincolli.

    • Infila un altro plettro e fallo scorrere delicatamente sopra l'antenna sinistra, fermandoti prima del tasto Home.

    • Fai scorrere il plettro solo verso il tasto Home dall'angolo sinistro. Non farlo scorrere in direzione opposta o potresti danneggiare l'antenna.

    • Se devi far scorrere il plettro lungo il bordo inferiore più di una volta, rimuovilo e reinfilalo vicino all'angolo e fallo scorrere verso il tasto Home.

    • Lascia il plettro vicino al tasto Home prima di procedere.

  26. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 26, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 26, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 26, immagine 3 di 3
    • Infila solo la punta di un ultimo plettro accanto a quello del passaggio precedente e fallo scorrere sotto il tasto Home.

    • Fermati a circa 25 mm dall'angolo destro per evitare di rompere il cavo del digitizer.

    • Infila il plettro più a fondo e fallo scorrere verso il tasto Home.

    • Come nell'ultimo passaggio, assicurati di far scorrere il plettro solo nella direzione che va dall'angolo verso il tasto Home quando è inserito a fondo, altrimenti potresti danneggiare l'antenna sotto il vetro.

    Do NOT insert the pick much deeper to the right of the home button, you can easily damage the fingerprint ID chip.

    kimhoover - Replica

    There is no fingerprint id chip in an iPad mini 2 (retina)

    blakebest -

    Be very careful in the vicinity and to the right of the home button. Only insert the very tip of the pick (similar to the instructions earlier for by the camera). Do not try to go beneath the home but as suggested here, just along the glass edge. I damaged the small metal clip under the button and detached the IC tape from the button, meaning I had to replace the glass touch screen with digitiser and home button.

    PeterB - Replica

  27. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 27, immagine 1 di 1
    • Scalda di nuovo e riappoggia l'iOpener al bordo superiore dell'iPad.

  28. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 28, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 28, immagine 2 di 2
    • Stai molto attento durante questo passaggio. Prenditi tutto il tempo necessario e assicurati che l'adesivo sia caldo e morbido, e di aver tagliato abbastanza adesivo con i plettri. Non esitare a fermarti e scaldare di nuovo se necessario.

    • Sul bordo superiore dovresti avere un plettro infilato sotto ogni angolo. Torci i plettri per fare leva e sollevare leggermente il vetro, separando l'adesivo rimasto sotto i bordi.

    • Se incontri troppa resistenza fermati. Lascia i plettri in posizione, scalda di nuovo e riappoggia l'iOpener e fai scorrere un plettro sotto il punto problematico un'altra volta.

  29. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 29, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 29, immagine 2 di 2
    • Solleva delicatamente e lentamente il bordo superiore per separare l'adesivo lungo gli altri bordi.

  30. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 30, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 30, immagine 2 di 2
    • Una volta separato tutto l'adesivo, apri il vetro come la pagina di un libro e appoggialo sulla superficie di lavoro.

    • Se vuoi riusare il gruppo dello schermo, durante il rimontaggio dovrai sostituire l'adesivo. Segui la nostra guida per l'applicazione dell'adesivo dello schermo per farlo e sigillare di nuovo il dispositivo.

    This picture and several others that follow are not for the "LTE" model.

    Tim Osborn - Replica

    Some of the steps, including the comments, are replicated between guides.  Be aware! This can render them somewhat generic, and possibly non-optimal.  For instance, this step is replicated between at least the mini 2 LTE, mini 2 Wi-Fi, mini 3 LTE, & mini 3 Wi-Fi.

    ciradrak -

    Maybe that’s because this is for the WiFi model.

    mcr4u2 -

    Remember to remove the old black adhesive from the digitizer and iPad frame. Some can be pulled out and some needs a sharp blade to remove. This will give you room to apply your new adhesive strips when reassembling.

    Yousef Ghalib - Replica

  31. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 31, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 31, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 31, immagine 3 di 3
    • Il supporto della fotocamera frontale potrebbe restare incollato al vetro: rimuovilo e rimettilo sulla fotocamera per proteggerla.

    • Fai oscillare il supporto attorno a uno dei suoi bordi per liberarlo dall'adesivo e poi rimuovilo dal vetro.

    • Rimetti il supporto della fotocamera frontale nel suo alloggio nella scocca.

  32. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 32, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 32, immagine 2 di 2
    • Svita le seguenti viti a croce Phillips #00 sche tengono fermo il pannello LCD:

    • tre viti da 3,3 mm

    • una vite da 4,5 mm

    • Se c'è del nastro sopra qualcuna delle viti, rimuovilo con delle pinzette.

    This is VERY IMPORTANT please be sure to put the screws EXACTLY how they were when you removed them otherwise your screen will not rotate when you put the new digitizer on. i closed my ipad thinking everything was ok but now the screen does not automatically rotate, but lucky i jailbroke my ipad first and have an activator gesture to rotate for me :-)

    Chris Grayden - Replica

    stripped the screws at the home button side of the ipad and the precision screw extractor set is too big to work. help?! paramedic064@gmail.com

    paramedic064 - Replica

    We have some great posts on Answers about getting stripped screws out, you can refer to What are your tips/tricks for removing or extracting stripped screws? for advice, or ask a new one and see if someone can come up with new ideas. We also have a stripped screw removal guide for you to check out. Good luck!

    Sam Goldheart -

    I found that Phillips #000 work better then the Phillips #00 for this entire product. I'll be recommending a change to the fix kit as well.

    William - Replica

    This is a tip:

    I have a terrible time cleaning the lcd because no matter how hard I try not to touch it, I always get smudges! So take my advice…remove the front film from the new digitizer and place it over the lcd. It is bigger so you can cut it down or just lift it to get to the screws. Now no fingerprints and also less chance for scratches. The front side is easy to clean once it’s installed so need to have that covered while working-the insides are what needs protecting.

    mamashannon4u - Replica

  33. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 33, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 33, immagine 2 di 2
    • Non cercare di rimuovere del tutto il pannello LCD: è ancora collegato all'iPad da diversi cavi sul bordo inferiore. Sollevalo solo dal bordo superiore, quello con la fotocamera.

    • Infila la parte piatta di uno spudger tra il pannello LCD e la schermatura e solleva delicatamente il pannello.

    • Stai attento a non infilare lo spudger sotto la schermatura. Deve essere tra il pannello LCD e la schermatura.

    • Piegare il pannello LCD anche solo leggermente lo può danneggiare irreparabilmente, quindi stai molto attento mentre lo sollevi.

    • Puoi provare i seguenti metodi alternativi per sollevare il pannello LCD e ridurre le possibilità di romperlo:

    • Fai scorrere un sottile filo (come filo interdentale o lenza) sotto lo schermo, iniziando dal bordo superiore e tirandolo verso quello inferiore.

    • Usa una sottile e flessibile scheda o una banconota in polimeri per tagliare l'adesivo iniziando dal bordo superiore.

    Be very careful not to get the spudger under the shield plate, but between the LCD and the shield. Also, not that on the LTE models, the antennas are at this end and there is a bit of adhesive holding this end of the LCD down.

    Tim Osborn - Replica

    This bit of adhesive is located beneath the foam, and runs the entire length of the antennas. You must lift the foam and detach the tape before you're able to get the top to come out the chassis

    James - Replica

    This is not present in this tutorial and is very frustrating. I fix it must look into this

    James - Replica

    I have seen countless comments about the LCD breaking when trying to remove it from the LCD shield with adhesive. I have found a simple solution. Once the 4 screws have been removed take a piece of fishing line (longer than the iPad) and simply run it beneath the top of the LCD from one side to the other. Once it's in place, gently pull it down applying equal pressure from both sides. The fishing line will break the adhesive in the process, freeing the LCD. It has worked for me every time.

    bababooey - Replica

    Thanks for the fishing line suggestion. It certainly worked for me (used 6lb test line). With using the fishing line, one is a lot less likely to break the LCD compared to using a spudger.

    rgstout -

    awesome tip thanks

    Pa Du -

    The tutorial procedure should be edited once and for all to instruct to detach the adhesive strip from the top of the LCD prior to attempting to lift it. Failure to do so will invariably result in a broken LCD!!!

    The simplest way to do that is to first gently remove the foam strip running around the top of the LCD with a pair of tweezers. Only then will the shiny metallic adhesive tape be visible and accessible.

    lorenzocangiano - Replica

    I found that if you take two flat plastic spurgers and run one down each side together it works fairly well. Just take your time.

    Abbot - Replica

    The LCD is extremely fragile, DO NOT allow it to bend or you will break it. The adhesive near the speakers that connect to the LCD are a danger spot and if you pull wrong you could break the LCD. Be careful.

    Timothy McEvoy - Replica

    Yeah, I broke my LCD because the guide did not specify the glue on the top portion if you have an LTE model. I didn’t even try hard at all. I tried to lift it with the plastic spudger and saw that it did not move. Came to check the comments and when I looked back the top corner was already broken.

    Thanks iFixit! Awesome guide

    Jorge Tamez - Replica

    Another LCD broken victim. Getting it loose from the adhesive was easy. However, it would not fold over like a book. Something had it bound at the bottom. Heard the dreaded crack. First iFixit fail for me.

    Vince Kowaleski - Replica

  34. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 34, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 34, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 34, immagine 3 di 3
    • Il pannello LCD è tenuto fermo da un leggero adesivo che dovrebbe essere ammorbidito prima di sollevare il pannello stesso dalla schermatura.

    • Infila lo spudger tra il pannello LCD e la schermatura sul bordo superiore e fallo scorrere lungo tutto il bordo dell'iPad.

    Hi. I noticed that the tutorial is for an LTE iPad mini 2. However, these pictures do not show and LTE device. I'm having issues removing the LCD from the iPad due to the antenna. Any suggestions? (How to remove antenna?)

    Kevin Rodriguez - Replica

    This step needs extra detail on how the LCD adhesive should be loosened. I've now got stress marks on the LCD which show up when solid backgrounds are displayed on screen as the LCD flexed when trying to pry it out.

    Cool_Breeze - Replica

    I have seen countless comments about the LCD breaking when trying to remove it from the LCD shield with adhesive. I have found a simple solution. Once the 4 screws have been removed take a piece of fishing line (longer than the iPad) and simply run it beneath the top of the LCD from one side to the other. Once it's in place, gently pull it down applying equal pressure from both sides. The fishing line will break the adhesive in the process, freeing the LCD. It has worked for me every time.

    bababooey - Replica

    thanks you very much!

    ind w -

    Great tip about the fishing wire because you will most certainly crack the LCD just yanking it out. Thank you and hit em with the hein

    Curtis Jordan Lenox - Replica

    I found that if you take two flat plastic spurgers and run one down each side together it works fairly well. Just take your time.

    Abbot - Replica

    The LCD is extremely fragile, DO NOT allow it to bend or you will break it. The adhesive near the speakers that connect to the LCD are a danger spot and if you pull wrong you could break the LCD. Be careful.

    Timothy McEvoy - Replica

    "mild adhesive" is really an understatement.
    The LCD is firmly attached to the metal plate below it.
    Especially if you try to repair an older ipad, the adhesive gets hard.
    Do not attempt to lift the LCD with spudgers in an attempt to get it out.
    You will break it.
    Use fishing line or some other strong wire to cut loose this adhesive.
    Even a strong sewing wire will do (it will take 5~6 wires because sharp edges of the housing will cut the wire easily).

    Sjaak Spoiler - Replica

  35. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 35, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 35, immagine 2 di 2
    • Due larghe strisce di nastro adesivo collegano il pannello LCD agli speaker.

    • Tieni il pannello con una mano e la scocca posteriore con l'altra.

    • Non cercare di rimuovere del tutto il pannello dall'iPad.

    • Tira delicatamente via dagli speaker il pannello per separare l'adesivo, stando attento a non tirare il cavo del digitizer.

    this was a pain to remove but the two pieces of tape should be separated using your spudger so that you can remove the lcd.

    Chris Grayden - Replica

    absolutely. lift the screen 45 degrees before pulling it too

    Billinski -

    The screen was a tight fit in the recess. Whilst maneouvering it out, it flexed a little. Once reassembled, there are now feint stress marks visible when the screen displays a uniform background. With photos it's not noticeable, but on solid backgrounds, it is very noticeable. :-(

    Be careful when pulling the LCD out. Any hints for pulling it out safely should be added to this step.

    Cool_Breeze - Replica

    This step is bad advise. Once you get the LCD unglued top and sides, drop those plastic tools behind it to keep it up and apply heat to the front bottom of the LCD where the tape is applied on either side, use your spudger to push the tape away before you attempt to pull or flip the LCD over. It is very easy to break if you don't get the tape loose enough, so do yourself a favor and free the LCD from the tape before you attempt to maneuver it.

    brentschwartz - Replica

    I have seen countless comments about the LCD breaking when trying to remove it from the LCD shield with adhesive. I have found a simple solution. Once the 4 screws have been removed take a piece of fishing line (longer than the iPad) and simply run it beneath the top of the LCD from one side to the other. Once it's in place, gently pull it down applying equal pressure from both sides. The fishing line will break the adhesive in the process, freeing the LCD. It has worked for me every time.

    bababooey - Replica

    As others have said this step is rather problematic and following the tuturial instructions will most definitely lead to damaging the LCD. One problem is that the two adhesive tapes are not indicated in the photo: they are large and black and they are partly covered by long strips of thicker material that looks like padding. To remove them it helps to heat a little with the opener and then one can slowly peel them away by alternating the sharp and flat tips of the spudger.

    lorenzocangiano - Replica

    This must be the most difficult part. I took the advice of using fishing line and it worked a treat. However, due to lack of knowledge - I managed to slice straight through the LCD ribbons (all of them). I figure it was glue so kept going! Please take not that fishing line is only good for the sides, not the top where the LCD is attached! New LCD on order for round 2.

    Mike - Replica

    Well. I cracked the LCD during this process, so another $100. But, it’s the journey that counts, right? There is adhesive keeping the LCD attached to the aluminum shield. As I was prying the LCD up (I didn't know about the adhesive), I did hear feint cracking. Also it is too tight to try to flip the LCD over as shown. I did heat the bottom strips, but still tried to do it as shown, more cracking. It seems best to heat it and push the adhesive strips back and separate them prior to lifting. As well as the sides of the LCD for lifting!!

    William Dailey - Replica

    I separated the small tape in the middle (5mm), and the large upper tape (20mm), but left the lower tape at the connector in place. That way, the LCD was much easier to pull away gently and to tilt over.

    peterhebbinckuys - Replica

    I used a needle nosed tweezers to remove the tape on the bottom left and right. I then used the plastic spudger and went between the LCD and the metal piece. I gently went down the left side about half way and then the right and slowly and gently worked both sides until they separated.

    Abbot - Replica

    This step is unclear and should be revised, but Abbot’s comment has the right idea.  The tape holding the LCD in place should be highlighted in the image. This tape wraps around the lower edge of the panel and extends onto the front face, then a piece of cushion is attached on top.  Heat that tape to soften the adhesive then peal it up.  The connector for the LCD is on the back side of the panel in the lower right hand corner, it is not near the tape you are pealing away from the panel. Once the tape is separated very little force is required to shift the panel toward the top of the device as depicted. If you attempt to ‘pull the LCD away from the speakers’ with two hands as shown, it will almost certainly be broken.  Also, all the youtube explanations (at least the ones I could find) of how to remove the LCD make it look like you lift up on the top which would only cause the LCD to break.  So youtube failed this step as well.  It’s not easy, be careful.

    P.S. as these steps are replicated between more than one device –– I’m working on an iPad mini 3 LTE, the tape may be in different places on other devices?

    ciradrak -

    The LCD is extremely fragile, DO NOT allow it to bend or you will break it. The adhesive near the speakers that connect to the LCD are a danger spot and if you pull wrong you could break the LCD. Be careful.

    Timothy McEvoy - Replica

    The three tapes is best removed with tweezers! Then the LCD is easily flipped over. Extremely odd it’s not explained in this way.

    trnilsson - Replica

    It is MANDATORY to loosen the 3 tapes as well (step 36), don’t even try to lift it without loosening them first!!!! After you did it you can turn the screen without any resistance! Should be added in this guide!!!!

    Ishino Akatawa - Replica

    I just broke my LCD during this step (35). Frrt! I was pulling it back as instructed, and the LCD flexed in my hands. Need a better process.

    Sean Koch - Replica

    Like other commenters I found this step inadequately treated. The LCD didn't want to fold over like it ought to and It took me a while to decide how to proceed. I would suggest that one first identify the plastic hinge strips. Zoom in on the pics: there's a lot going on at that edge, it's all black, and you don't want to mess with any of the cable strips, etc. I used a hair dryer to loosen the hinges (I suspect one could heat up a small piece of metal bar and place it on the hinges to loosen) and gradually stretched it. I also think that using gloves instead of holding the LCD with bare fingers would help avoid smudging (I spent a bunch of time getting rid of finger marks.)

    cskilton - Replica

  36. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 36, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 36, immagine 2 di 2
    • Non cercare di rimuovere del tutto il pannello LCD: è ancora collegato all'iPad da diversi cavi sul bordo inferiore. Sollevalo solo dall'estremità superiore, quella con la fotocamera.

    • Apri il pannello LCD dell'iPad come un libro, sollevando il bordo superiore e rovesciandolo sul case posteriore ruotandolo attorno al bordo con il pulsante home.

    • Sii delicato e presta attenzione ai cavi del pannello mentre lo giri.

    • Appoggia il pannello sul vetro per avere accesso ai cavi dello schermo.

  37. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 37, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 37, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 37, immagine 3 di 3
    • Fai scorrere la punta di uno spudger tra il pannello LCD e le linguette adesive per liberare lo schermo.

    • Spingi delicatamente ognuno dei due nastri: stai attento a non danneggiare nessuno dei cavi nelle vicinanze.

    This was harder than it looks. The adhesive tape covers a lot of area and has stuck to it tiny wires that go to the speaker. I had to use the tweezers to very carefully separate the wire from the adhesive, and to then pull the adhesive off the circuit board area in one spot before it would finally come away.

    Ray Everett - Replica

    Be careful that it does not pull up all the foam strips, that was my issue.

    Shane - Replica

  38. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 38, immagine 1 di 1
    • Svita le sette viti a croce Phillips #00 da 1,8 mm sulla schermatura.

    My LCD shield plate had many more screws than this. You have to remove them all.

    David Rowthorn - Replica

    My plate had 8 on the upper line, 6 + 2 at bottom. 16 total.

    There are strong magnets on the sides and they keep catching the screws as you take them out. Tweezers are helpful to fish them.

    Gina Romo -

    At the assembly stage I found it is easier to use Philips PH000 screw driver bit than PH00. It helped me to get these minuscule screws in place, catch the head holes and drive them into their tight position. While using PH00 the driver would not catch the holes in their head and I was risking scratching the display since the screws refused to settle in the openings.

    mxmbulat - Replica

  39. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 39, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 39, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 39, immagine 3 di 3
    • Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per fare leva sulla schermatura per sollevarla dall'iPad.

    • Rimuovi la schermatura.

    You can also just slide it back to expose the cable bracket.

    Will - Replica

  40. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi, Pannello LCD: passo 40, immagine 1 di 1
    • Svita le seguenti viti a croce Phillips #00 dalla copertura dei cavi dello schermo:

    • Una vite da 2,8 mm

    • Tre viti da 1,4 mm

  41. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 41, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 41, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 41, immagine 3 di 3
    • Rimuovi la copertura dei cavi dello schermo dall'iPad.

  42. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 42, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 42, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 42, immagine 3 di 3
    • Usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore del tasto Home dalla sua presa sulla scheda madre.

    • Piega il cavo a nastro del tasto Home per disporlo in modo che non intralci il lavoro.

    maybe disconnect the battery before touch the home button cable

    cli168 - Replica

    On a iPad mini 3 you MUST remove the home button cable connector, before you have access to the battery connector

    phigsmith - Replica

    The wider end allows better leverage and no slippage

    Billinski - Replica

  43. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 43, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 43, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 43, immagine 3 di 3
    • Usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare delicatamente il connettore della batteria dalla sua presa sulla scheda madre.

    • Stai attento a fare leva solo sul connettore della batteria e non sulla presa. Se fai leva sulla presa sulla scheda madre, potresti romperla irreparabilmente.

    The wider end allows better leverage and no slippage

    Billinski - Replica

  44. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 44, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 44, immagine 2 di 2
    • Usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore del pannello LCD dalla sua presa sulla scheda madre.

    • Non fare leva contro il grosso chip accanto al connettore o potresti romperlo. Fai leva delicatamente sul lato del connettore come mostrato nelle immagini.

    The wider end allows better leverage and no slippage

    Billinski - Replica

  45. Sostituzione pannello LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi: passo 45, immagine 1 di 1
    • Solleva e rimuovi il pannello LCD dall'iPad Mini 3.

Conclusione

Per rimontare il dispositivo, segui le istruzioni in ordine inverso.

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Un commento

I’ve done many iPad Mini 1 and 2 repairs and have had no problems. However with the touch ID home button on the iPad Mini 3 it makes it a bit trickier. I haven’t been able to successfully transfer a touch ID capable home button to the new digitizer, let alone install a new home button and have it work.

Anyone have any tips?

Bill Shannon - Replica

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