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Sorry it’s taken so long to reply, Have you checked the micro switch is working on the memory card door? If it is stuck in the open position then the camera won’t power on. You can usually tell if it works by pressing it in with the end of a pen or something. You should hear a noticeable click. If you don’t hear it then they are fragile & do sometimes stick.
Hope this helps.
See my reply below. There isn’t one.
Gazza
I can vouch that there is NO CMOS battery on this laptop. I now own one from a friend who had it condemned by another ‘repair tech’. It turned out that the display connector was not secured properly. Anyway, having stripped it down completely, i decided to replace the CMOS battery before putting it back together & there isn’t one. On the underside of the board is an area with white plastic in the shape of a button battery. On reassembly i noticed the CMOS had lost the clock memory. Which i put down to disconnecting the battery. It must be powered when the battery is connected & not separately.
Gazza
I used your guide when i repaired my mates X553. I found it quite easy. So thanks for the heads up on what to look out for :-)
The battery i removed yesterday had way more adhesive on the under side than in the above pic. I ended up having to get the old battery fairly warm before the adhesive would release. A tip if you are doing this is to use an old credit card cut in to narrow strips and insert them in to the gap where the adhesive release. That way the battery shouldn’t re-stick before you remove it.
The NFC Antenna is delicate. If you are just replacing the batter then i had to use a bit of heat to soften the adhesive before gently peeling it away from the battery. The adhesive is quite stubborn.
If you do not have any picks, You can also adapt an old credit or utility card by cutting it in to thirds. Then with some fine emery or sand paper, rub a sharp point on the one edge of the card. This will help you get access to the clips that hold the rear cover on. The one i did yesterday had quite a lot of adhesive around the edge & around the finger print sensor. Another tip with an old credit card is to cut it in to narrow strips to insert in to where you have separated the cover from the frame to stop it getting stuck to the adhesive again.
Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.
I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier
Once getting to the corner of the bezel i left the plectrum in place & used another to continue my run. I did this up until the next corner & repeated the reheating & using another plectrum until there were 3 in each corner. When i put the 4th plectrum under the glass i returned the N& back to the Hot Water Bottle & then released the Digitizer cable & the LCD cable from their respective connectors. While the N7 was still warming i then gently separated the charging cable from the adhesive that was on the underside of the LCD.
I did have to refill the Hot Water Bottle once, so's to keep the temp high. Then i turned the bezel & screen over & used a medium sized sucker to gently pull the loosened screen from the bezel. Keeping an eye on the ribbon cables so they didn't snag as the lot came away. The only trouble i had was the lower part of the screen assembly required a little coaxing with my scalpel due to the thickness of the adhesive there. But everything came away easily.
I'd just like to comment on a slightly different way i have done this digitizer replacement. I managed to remove the digitizer & LCD without actually undoing a single screw from the frame. I did it with the help of a normal, every day, rubber HOT WATER BOTTLE. I filled the Hot Water Bottle 1/3rd full of boiling water & sat the N7 on a sheet of polystyrene packaging. The kind your replacement digitizer is sent in. I then placed the Hot Water Bottle on top of the glass of the N7 & left it for around 15 minutes. Once the heat had transferred through the glass & the frame, i then gently lifted the glass with one of the triangle plectrums & very gently slid it around the joint between the digitizer & the bezel. When i came to a section that was difficult to separate i left the plectrum in place & returned the N7 to the Hot Water Bottle for a few minutes to reheat the adhesive. Then tried to move the plectrum again.