Introduzione
Usa questa guida per sostituire i pulsanti A/B/X/Y e la loro membrana nel tuo Steam Deck LCD.
Ricorda: segui le procedure generali di sicurezza contro le scariche elettrostatiche (ESD) durante la riparazione del tuo dispositivo.
Nota: Valve ha iniziato a spedire Steam Deck con design interni aggiornati all'inizio del 2023. Il tuo Steam Deck potrebbe apparire diverso rispetto a quello raffigurato nelle foto, ma la procedura è la stessa. Rimuovi il case posteriore per verificare la versione che possiedi. Uno Steam Deck originale avrà la protezione della scheda madre metallica e una ventola con lati quadrati, come mostrato qui. Uno Steam Deck aggiornato avrà la protezione della scheda madre nera e una ventola con lati curvi, come mostrato qui.
Cosa ti serve
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Spegni il tuo Steam Deck e scollega tutti i cavi.
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Attrezzo utilizzato in questo passaggio:Magnetic Project Mat$19.95
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Usa un cacciavite a croce Phillips per rimuovere le otto viti che tengono fermo il pannello posteriore:
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Quattro viti da 9,5 mm a filettatura grossa
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Quattro viti da 5,8 mm a filettatura fine
there should be a picture of the SD card slot at the start of every Steam Deck teardown. i know the note is there but i generally use the pictures to guide me and forgetting to remove the SD card is a very critical step
I agree, I just broke mine...
What is the the #1 philips used for? Only the #0 is mentioned in the instructions.
I wish they would specify which size to use for which screws.
Mark D -
I found it easiest to use a PH1 for the red screws, and PH0 for the rest (including the internals.)
I used the PH1 bit for this. You can use smaller bits but ideally there should be no play of the bit in the screw head.
I used the PH1 for the 9.5mm screws and PH00 for the 5.8mm screws. The PH0 wanted to strip one of the small ones.
Just a point for knowledge sake, the Four 5.8mm screws on this step are factory installed with a version of locktite. Not sure why but there will be slight resistance when removing the first time.
The screw bit that came with my fix kit just stripped the screws of my steam deck. I guess I should've just sent it in...
Model 1030 SteamDeck uses Torque #6 (CR-V T6) 5.0mm for all 8 screws making it far less likely to damage the screw heads.
Model 1030 is the OLED version, which we have separate guides for! See here: Steam Deck OLED
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Inserisci un plettro di apertura nella fessura sottile tra la cover posteriore e il guscio frontale, lungo il bordo dell'impugnatura destra.
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Fai leva sulla cover posteriore per sganciare le clip di bloccaggio.
I found it easiest to start this process at the top of the device near the fan exit.
second that and inserting the pick in the bottom middle and sliding the pick to each side
Sub -
I also found the top near the fan exit to be easier
Thank you for this tip, it definitely was easy starting at the top instead of by the bumper/triggers. After I opened the top I did the bottom and then it was way easier to gently open the sides. be very careful and go slowly to make sure that none of the clips are damaged
Luis B -
this as suggested above:
1. open the top
2. open the bottom
3.gently open the sides
I also started from the middle of the deck and worked my way out since I couldn't get a grip with the pick on the deck's side grips. Since this is a common step for pretty much all guides for opening the deck I think it's also worth noting that you should be careful not to bend the trims/seams where the front and back covers meet with the pick. When I first opened my deck you can definitely see where I nudged the pick in between the covers since I was probably using too much force on the pick itself.
It would be useful to note here that if you want to insert the little blue triangular iFixit opening picks into the right side along the edge, there isn't actually a gap as the directions say, at least not on newer Decks. You'll be making the initial gap using the pick. Brace it on something because you will need to use enough downward force that you're flexing the pick a bit and it'll probably be digging into the skin of a bare hand. With enough force suddenly it will make a click and go in just a bit, and then you're in business.
plastic picks didnt work for me but finger males did the job on prying this open
This step was the hardest by far. First I didn't find an opening at the sides, and it did take a really long time until I finally got it open... Then, when I had the one side opening open it didn't just pop out, I needed to slide all the way to the other side with the pick and open everything. I guess they made it even more drop resistant.
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Afferra la cover posteriore dall'apertura che hai appena creato e sollevala e allontanala dal dispositivo per sganciare le clip sui lati lunghi.
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Rimuovi la cover posteriore.
If you have an SD card, you will want to take it out. I followed the guide and didn't think about the SD card I had inside. When I went to snap the case back on it clapped shut on the exposed SD card, shearing it in half and leaving the bottom half stuck in the SD card slot. I am still endeavoring to get it out.
you can use the case that comes with the steam deck to support it once the lid is removed
You can get the pry pick inserted easier if you start in the gap for the shoulder buttons. A lego brick separator works well here
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Attrezzo utilizzato in questo passaggio:Tweezers$4.99
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Se possiedi una versione aggiornata dello Steam Deck con la copertura nera della scheda madre, salta questo passaggio.
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Usa un paio di pinzette per rimuovere il pezzo di foglio d'alluminio che copre la vite nascosta sulla protezione della scheda madre.
Use some heat here from a hairdryer to make this part easier.
If you screw up here you can replace the little aluminium square with some aluminium tape from Amazon. No less than 50 microns thick, slightly thicker is fine. and the square is 13mm both ways.
Thanks for that Matt, i destroyed the original tape and i had no solution since i read your comment.
You should not. This is EM shielding to protect your processor and ram from radio waves in the air
I found out my 3 Weeks new Steam Deck is a old Version... gg. Valve...
wenn ich aluminium foile benutze, womit soll ich sie dann verkleben?
If we have the new version with the black shield, how do we access the SSD?
I need this part, does anyone know where to get it?
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Usa un cacciavite a croce Phillips per rimuovere le tre viti che tengono ferma la protezione della scheda:
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Una vite da 3,4 mm
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Due viti da 3,7 mm
The procedure ended here for me, used an ifixit PH 00 bit on the screw behind the aluminium tape, bit wouldnt bite too great, one wrong twist and the screw was stripped. Not sure who or what initially screwed in that particular screw as the rest of the screws on the shield were fine, but boy is it in there tight. So now i have a stripped screw and a botched ssd replacement, don't think valve will let me RMA for this, but i'll give it a try and update accordingly.
Any updates? Did they let you RMA?
I found one screw to be ridiculously tight too, managed to undo it without stripping thanks to reading your comment beforehand and going extra careful. Not going to lie, it was a tense moment :D
Andy HL -
I'm stuck in the same place. I haven't fully stripped it, but I can tell you that if I try and make it budge it will strip. The thing is massively overtightened. The driver fit fine, the metal just gives way before the screw will budge.
I think the tendency is to go too small on the screwdriver bits because you're working on small electronics.
I used the PH1 bit on the screw under the foil and the PH0 bit for the two remaining screws without any problems.
What does this shield actually do? Some kind of magnetic protection?
if I had to replace the key (R2) and that's it, can I directly remove it or do I have to act here on the motherboard too?
have you gotten an answer yet? trying to change mines as well but dont wanna do too much to the deck
briaNN -
button Not key, i’m sorry
FYI there is a little pin on the cover that slots into the board. It is located near the top screw. I needed that to be inserted for the cover to go back down properly.
For anyone who may have stripped a 3.7mm screw, Steam Support states it's M1.6 diameter with a 0.35 thread pitch and a 3mm length. Hopefully that'll help anyone trying to locate a replacement screw. Hoping iFixIt can make an internal screws kit as they're kinda hard to find the right one online.
Did valve change the shield recently as my new 64gb deck has a black shield with no hidden screw.
Yes there's a new hardware revision out there that some people are getting. Consider stopping at this point and putting your deck back together if you have one of these new hardware revisions (the fan is quite different as well to the pictures) until iFixit has an updated repair guide.
Simon M. -
There are only 2 screws now, but be careful taking the shield off, because there are still thermal pads under it sticking it to a heat pipe.
I need this piece, can someone help me where can I find it please?
Hi, is it possible to buy these shields somewhere? I am extremely interested in buying a replacement.
Model 1030 is the OLED version, which we have separate guides for! See here: Steam Deck OLED
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Rimuovi la protezione della scheda madre.
During reassembly, ensure that the fan cable lays on the side of the board shield and isn't pinched underneath.
Are you saying that the fan cable should be positioned above the board shield instead of being pressed down by it? Just like the image shows, where it 'lays on the side of the board shield'?
Necesito esta pieza la mía no la traía se ve que se la quitaro
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Prendi il cavo della batteria dalla sua linguetta e tiralo via dalla scheda madre per scollegarlo.
After fully reassembling my device I found that my battery was not showing any stats anymore. I couldn't start the device without being plugged in, however if I restarted it would stay on even if my power cable was detached. Battery showed 0%. It turns out I had not fully reinserted the battery cable at this stage during reassembly. MAKE SURE YOU PUSH IT ALL THE WAY BACK IN!
Awesome thanks for this tip!
It is helpful to lift up gently with a the tapered end of a spudger underneath the tucked-in portion of the battery cable, creating a bit of flex in the cable before pulling on the pull tab. I found that without doing so, the fabric pull-tab simply tore off of the cable under light-to-moderate force (the fabric itself ripped cleanly across, like a paper towel). Careful, gentle pressure with a spudger can be used to remove the plug by prying gently on the rear ridge of the plastic plug (not the wire!) if this happens.
This is exactly what happened to me. Maybe it was a pull tab previously, mine was a ribbon cable that tore - captured the image here: https://www.ianwootten.co.uk/2022/11/22/...
This was the best approach (and I feel safest for the wiring) for me. Mostly push pressure on the plastic ridge with some minor pull tension on the fabric.
Victor -
I found it less scary and easier to remove the battery connection by using a fingernail on the ridge and pushing it off the connector. I felt like pulling on the battery cable was too harsh.
Yeah, pulling cables like these is usually ill advice. They might be fine if it's a new device, but for old devices that have been sitting there for years, there's a good chance the connector has grown brittle and the cable might just come off separately (something I learnt the hard way).
skzm -
I second this approach. For me, the cable felt way to flimsy and the connector wouldn't budge even under moderate force. Except I used the flat end of a spudger to "scrape" it out.
Misza -
Upon plugging the battery back in, I found it easy to use two spudgers- one on each side- to pull/push the connector back into it's port. Be careful to not put any pressure on the battery wires themselves.
When reconnecting the battery cable, you'll know when it's inserted and power is restored, because the white LED will illuminate at the top of the Deck near the power button. You should be able to see it while you're reconnecting the battery cable
This is only true if you haven't put the deck into battery storage mode as directed.
Why not just let the battery discharge completely and then not have to disconnect it?
Completely discharging a battery reduces its lifespan. It's completely unnecessary.
Because no lipo battery is ever completely discharged -- you would not be able to recharge it if it was. There will always be enough power left in it to cause damage if shorted even if it isn't charged enough to power up the device it's connected to.
I would personally not recommend pulling the tab. It doesn’t apply force at the correct angle. You should revise these instructions to advise using a combination of pulling on the tab, and careful pressure on the connector towards the right of the mainboard to carefully work it out.
Using the pull tab alone could cause problems if not done extremely carefully.
This part was wayyyyy easier than I anticipated and I worried for nothing because I used the ifixit spudger to push it out a bit and then I literally used my finger nail and was able to slide it right off. Dont be afraid, its not that difficult and its not that delicate to break if you do it patiently
I inserted the cable very firmly with a spunger, being careful not to press down too hard on the cables, and even tried redoing it, but I don't see any LED illumination. I am now unable to boot the deck into the boot manager. Any additional tips?
What is the risk of not unplugging the battery? Just curious!
Once I was changing termal paste on my Windows based expensive tablet PC... And I was so scared to disconnect any cables (there was many of them), so I did it all with battery connected (I didn't even knew where is battery cable). When I tried to put board shield back... it didn't go right into needed place... and short circuit some small component. It flashed. That was the end of my repair. Dudies from repair service later told me that multiple components fried including CPU, so repairing is too hard. That's what can happen if you don't disconnect battery.
To pull the battery out I used my spunger, but the batter had actually not space to be pulled out completely. I needed to lift the cable up with the spunger to get the cable fully out. When plugging it in again I had to press the battery down kinda hard so it would fit again. This was really scary and I recommand using two spunger as someone said above.
Does it have to be a clean fingernail?
I disagree with the order here: I think the battery should be disconnected right after step 4. You can do that before touching anything else by gently pulling the pull tab to the right.
If all you want to do is to disconnect and reconnect your battery (because your Steam Deck is not booting up... again...) then with a bit of finesse, luck and a flat plastic tool you can even push it back in without removing the shield. Make sure it went all the way back in.
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Posiziona la parte piatta di uno spudger sul lato interno del gancio destro del grilletto.
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Ruota il gancio del grilletto verso l'esterno e verso l'alto rispetto al perno per sganciarlo.
This is unnecessary on the revised Model 1030 if you only need to access the Quick Access button. Jump to Step 13.
Model 1030 is the OLED version, which we have separate guides for! See here: Steam Deck OLED
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Rimuovi il grilletto destro.
In case the spring gets lost, it's 19 mm long with about 14 coils.
Thank you this is helpful
reconbot -
When putting this back on be sure to note the instructions for reassembly above. Catch the outer peg, align the inner one, and push. Having a flashlight on the inner peg helped me get it lined up.
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Usa un cacciavite a croce Phillips per rimuovere le tre viti da 5,2 mm che tengono ferma la staffa del grilletto destro.
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Rimuovi la staffa del grilletto destro.
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I grilletti di ricambio richiedono la calibrazione per funzionare come previsto. Per calibrare i nuovi grilletti, segui questa guida di calibrazione.
The right bumper button on my switch deck stopped working after the deck was accidentally dropped from 5ft. When I got to this step of the instructions, I was able to see that the momentary switch that the button triggers had been bent backwards from the impact, making it difficult for the button to trigger the switch. I bent the switch back to its original position, which fixed the mechanical problem. Unfortunately the solder joints for the switch cracked when I pressed the switch forward. I re-flowed the solder joints with a tiny Weber iron that I filed down to a narrow point. The button works properly now.
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Attrezzo utilizzato in questo passaggio:Tweezers$4.99
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Usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare l'aletta di bloccaggio sul connettore ZIF del cavo della levetta analogica.
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Usa un paio di pinzette per far scorrere il cavo via dal suo connettore.
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Usa un cacciavite a croce Phillips per rimuovere le tre viti da 5,2 mm che tengono ferma la levetta.
This is unnecessary if you only need to access the Quick Access button on the revised Model 1030. Jump to step 16.
Model 1030 is the OLED version, which we have separate guides for! See here: Steam Deck OLED
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Usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare l'aletta di bloccaggio sul connettore ZIF del cavo della scheda dei pulsanti.
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Usa un paio di pinzette per far scorrere il cavo via dal suo connettore.
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Usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare l'aletta di bloccaggio sul connettore ZIF del cavo di interconnessione della scheda dei pulsanti sulla scheda dei pulsanti.
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Usa un paio di pinzette per far scorrere il cavo via dal suo connettore.
Be very mindful of this cable during re-assembly, if this cable isn't fully seated properly the deck will turn on slowly and not be able to recognize any inputs besides the touch screen.
Hmm, I wonder if this is my problem. I replaced my case with the Clear JSAUX one. Everything went fairly well, until I closed it up and noticed none of my buttons worked anymore. By "seated properly", how do you tell? When I look at it, it looks the same as the picture, with the white line showing
Eric, flip up the white locking flap and remove the cable. Then reinsert the cable — it should go in smoothly with no resistance, hence its name (ZIF = "Zero Insertion Force") — if you feel resistance, there might be something blocking the cable or its connection. If it slides in smoothly, make sure it bottoms out evenly and isn't at an odd angle. If everything looks good, your problem is probably elsewhere.
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Se alcuni connettori sono coperti da nastro adesivo, utilizza una pinzetta per rimuoverlo.
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Usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare le alette di bloccaggio del resto dei connettori ZIF della scheda dei pulsanti. Usa un paio di pinzette per far scorrere i cavi via dai loro connettori.
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Scollega il cavo dei pulsanti A/B/X/Y.
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Scollega il cavo della scheda del trackpad.
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Scollega il cavo del trackpad.
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Usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare il cavo del feedback aptico per scollegarlo.
Personally, i think this should just be a suggested step, since the connector is different and requires more force to disconnect than the ribbon cable connectors and you can leave this connected and lay the board over to the side without disconnecting this and still access the buttons.
I agree with Peter on this. I tried fixing my right bumper before ordering a replacement and during disassembly I followed these instructions exactly and still broke the bracket that holds the haptics connector. Luckily my haptics seem to still be working after putting it back together but I have a feeling it will disconnect on its own after some time and I will be needing a whole new button board.
I did this very carefully and the bracket still broke
I broke the down part of the bracket as well. Glued it back on with some crazy glue applied with a wooden toothpick (to make sure to not touch anything else). Haptics still working. Next time I don't think I'll remove that connector.
I agree with everyone above. Attempting to disconnect the haptics is not worth it as it breaks extremely easily
Please remove this step. It is virtually impossible to remove this without breaking the housing and it's ultimately not necessary.
Wish I had seen this beforehand. My right connector just broke off. Ughhh.
Can this just be soldered back on or do I need a new button board? Because I have looked online and they seem impossible to find.
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Usa un cacciavite a croce Phillips per scollegare le quattro viti che tengono ferma la scheda dei pulsanti:
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Tre viti da 5,2 mm
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Una vite da 3,9 mm
Once again, for the revised Model 1030, all of these screws are T6 of varying sizes, nothing like the original. Use your favourite way of keeping track of where to return the screws in their correct holes.
Model 1030 is the OLED version, which we have separate guides for! See here: Steam Deck OLED
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Usa un cacciavite a croce Phillips per rimuovere le due viti da 5,2 mm che tengono fermo il gruppo del pulsante dorsale destro.
My wife and I just were just struggling with putting the button board back in after replacing our right bumper. If you find your face buttons are smooshy or things aren’t lining up right, try this:
The button board has two holes that are meant to line up with two prongs on the piece beneath it. Make sure both are properly situated. One is just north of the thumbstick hole; the other (the one that gave us trouble!) is on the lower left, next to the ribbon cable.
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Rimuovi il gruppo del pulsante dorsale destro.
When reassembling, there is a small tab along the outer edge that you should lead with. It goes directly under the small tab that locks the casing in place. Angle it in and the part should easily slide onto the placement post.
Thank you! Was struggling
Ok so I dropped my Baby on its right bumper by accident first drop ever. Well point being my R1 button is not as responsive as it should be. So, I purchased a new R1 button now I am starting to wonder if maybe I messed up a screw-in prong on the actual button board. Can I order that new as well?
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Attrezzo utilizzato in questo passaggio:Tweezers$4.99
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Usa un paio di pinzette per rimuovere la membrana dei pulsanti.
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Usa un paio di pinzette per rimuovere i quattro pulsanti, A, B, X e Y.
Is it possible to put the A button to B position and vice versa?
Is it possible to put the X button to Y position and vice versa?Unfortunately no. Each button is keyed to its respective slot.
This is really unlucky! I wanted to use them in Nintendo style, YX and BA... swapping them both in software and physically!
Nicola -
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Per rimontare il dispositivo, segui le istruzioni in ordine inverso.
Porta i tuoi rifiuti elettronici a un riciclatore certificato R2 o e-Stewards.
La riparazione non è andata secondo i piani? Prova delle soluzioni ai problemi di base, o chiedi alla nostra comunità Risposte Steam Deck per trovare aiuto.
Per rimontare il dispositivo, segui le istruzioni in ordine inverso.
Porta i tuoi rifiuti elettronici a un riciclatore certificato R2 o e-Stewards.
La riparazione non è andata secondo i piani? Prova delle soluzioni ai problemi di base, o chiedi alla nostra comunità Risposte Steam Deck per trovare aiuto.
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7 Commenti
Or nintendo replacements (swap a<->b and x<->y)
this would be a great idea
What a dumb comment.
Is this action buttons membrane compatible with the OLED model? It looks the same but I want to be sure.
@batmanmoth39493 he is referring to cosmetic replacements and @lucaskobashi if the buttons are the same size then you should be able to simply rearrange them instead of buying new buttons, however if you still wish to do so, then try this storefront https://www.etsy.com/shop/SakuraRetroMod...
your friend-NOSTROM
