Usa questa guida per rimuovere in sicurezza la batteria incollata del tuo MacBook Pro. Un compito che si svolge meglio con l'aiuto di un kit da sostituzione batteria iFixit; il prodotto antiadesivo nel tuo kit scioglierà l'adesivo che fissa la batteria, permettendoti di rimuoverla facilmente. In alternativa, puoi usare un iOpener per applicare una modesta quantità dic alore per ammorbidire l'adesivo prima di provare a staccare la batteria.

Il prodotto antiadesivo iFixit è altamente infiammabile. Questa procedura va eseguita in un'area ben ventilata. Non fumare e non lavorare vicino a una fiamma libera durante la procedura.

Per la tua sicurezza, scarica la batteria del tuo MacBook Pro prima di iniziare questa procedura.. Una batteria al litio-ioni carica può creare un incendio pericoloso e incontrollabile se viene forata accidentalmente.

Nota: il solvente usato per sciogliere l'adesivo della batteria può danneggiare alcuni tipi di plastica, come le coperture in plastica degli altoparlanti del MacBook Pro. Stai attento quando applichi l'antiadesivo.

Rimuovi le 10 viti seguenti che fissano il coperchio inferiore al case superiore:
  • Rimuovi le 10 viti seguenti che fissano il coperchio inferiore al case superiore:

    • Due viti Pentalobe da 2,3 mm

    • Otto viti Pentalobe da 3,0 mm

For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

Carlos - Replica

Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

Fredrik -

Is the Pentalobe screwdriver mentioned in the tools list? I did not have one so I used a filed down flat blade screwdriver. Not a fantastic idea, but it works.

Alex Birkett - Replica

Yes, it's mentioned on the top of this page. P5 Pentalobe to be precise. I didn't have one either, so I bought one from iFixit and that works fantastic. An absolutely precise fit, which is important especially when you might open your MacBook a couple of times during the years you own it. Not using the correct tool might do more harm to the screws than you want! I once had this with a Lenovo Yoga 3 Pro, which has Torx screws (T4 I think) and I used cheap Chinese quality tools, with the result that both the tool and one of the screws are damaged.

addvariety -

the macbook in the picture is 2012. does it has the same structure as 2013?

Edison - Replica

I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Get it!

marketing - Replica

is P5 supposed to be for all 10 screws? it works on the 2x 2.3mm at the top, but not for the 8x others for me. what size screwdriver for the 3mm? thanks

monsieurescargot - Replica

Yes, the p5 works for all 10 pentalobe screw heads for bottom cover. The the different size mm reference only refers to the difference in length of the screws, but again both heads are p5.

Antoine Thornton - Replica

Infila le tue dita tra il case superiore e quello inferiore.
  • Infila le tue dita tra il case superiore e quello inferiore.

  • Con delicatezza, tira il coperchio inferiore per staccarlo da quello superiore.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Il case inferiore è collegato a quello superiore con due clip di plastica in posizione centrale.

  • Durante il rimontaggio, spingi con delicatezza il centro del case inferiore per riattaccare le due clip in plastica.

There are two screws that are shorter-they go to the back near the vent.

wrbandllm - Replica

This was already mentioned at the start, it says 2x 2.3mm screws and those are coloured red instead of orange for the other ones in iFixit's image.

addvariety - Replica

What is the black vinyl-y sticker on the inside of the case (some sort of shield?). I was forced to slightly puncture it in order to replace the feet on my laptop. Thanks in advance.

Tommy Huang - Replica

  • Se necessario, rimuovere la copertura in plastica attaccata alla scheda contatti della batteria.

Do you know where I can purchase this plastic cover? Mine is missing and no one will work on my computer without it.

jodieabc - Replica

There is no point on going near the battery or logic board. I cut out these steps with no issue. It is precautionary but unnecessary.

Jaime Leonard - Replica

  • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore della batteria in verticale dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica.

  • Accertati di sollevare solo il connettore e non lo zoccolino, per evitare il rischio di danni permanenti alla scheda logica.

I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

jramsey21 - Replica

I have the some problem. I was thinking to replace the whole battery but I am not it will solve the problem. Any suggestions?

salvatorebarbera -

Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

andrehedegaard -

Have either of you replaced the battery and/or circuit board to fix the MacBooks with the water damage ? I have the same problem with the MacBook working fine when connected to power but dying immediately when the power cord is removed.

Steve - Replica

Hi, Steve. I had the same problem: Macbook Pro 15 retina with coffee damage. And it worked fine when connected to power. I made it working after replacing the whole battery. It seems that circuit connected to the battery becomes disabled to prevent short circuit.

Vadim Gribanov -

When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

Ethan Tarquin - Replica

Thanks for the comment. My MBP isn’t powering on after I walked through these steps, and I assume it is because the battery connector isn’t fully connected. (I can’t check yet since I borrowed the pentalobe screwdriver)

Caleb Steinborn -


I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

Jonas Ehrs -

If I only want to replace the trackpad cable, then which steps should I skip? This step seems unnecessary

Parth Gudhka - Replica

  • Piega il connettore della batteria in modo che non interferisca, per prevenire un contatto accidentale con lo zoccolino durante la riparazione.

If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

sebasgaes - Replica

I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

LaymanLab - Replica

That’s a great idea!

David Lilliebridge - Replica

I used a small piece of paper to prevent the connector from connecting, no need to wrestle with even low-stick adhesive.

dbrick - Replica

  • Rimuovi le due viti Torx T5 da 2,1 mm che fissano la staffa del cavo della scheda I/O dalla parte della scheda logica.

At this point it's a good idea to take sheet of printer paper, like A4, and press each screw into the paper roughly in the position it was removed from. When it comes time to reassemble it, you wont get the different lengths mixed up.

Martin Gray - Replica

This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, skipped the I/O Cable removal (Steps 7, 8, 9, 10) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery.

barak - Replica

After this step I continued from step 13, the steps in between were not really necessary in my opinion ( I succeeded the replacement without them). Just be careful not to touch these connectors during replacement.

driesverfaillie - Replica

  • Afferra con un paio di pinzette la staffa del cavo della scheda I/O e rimuovila dal MacBook.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore della scheda in verticale dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica.

  • Accertati di far leva solo sul cavo della scheda I/O e non sullo zoccolino stesso, altrimenti potresti danneggiare la scheda logica.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Solleva in alto il terminale dal lato della scheda logica del cavo della scheda I/O; quindi ripiegalo in una posizione che non dia fastidio.

  • Per evitare danni al cavo, ripiegalo solo all'altezza della curva presente nel terminale dal lato della scheda I/O.

I removed I/O Board cable completely on both ends using a flat end plastic spudger tool. I did not feel comfortable “bending” it as shown in Pic. Be careful to not damage sockets on either end when removing battery. Extra care to not get any adhesive debris in exposed sockets. I have used the solvent with syringe and that can get rather messy and risk getting liquid onto keyboard/screen/motherboard components etc/. This time I used a plastic “Disposable Putty Knife” from Ace hardware. Speakers where easily removed in subsequent steps. Started pushing in from edges with plastic putty knife and battery cells separated surprisingly easy. This method is clean & much easier than the dental floss struggle!! I used Googone with QTips to remove adhesive remnants.

lamajr - Replica

  • Infila con delicatezza la punta di uno spudger sotto il cavo dell'altoparlante destro vicino al suo connettore e sollevano dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica.

Same as my comment on Step 7: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent)

barak - Replica

WARNING TO ANYONE WHO DOES THIS STEP! Be very careful to distinguish the cable end from the socket! I just managed to break the entire socket off of the logic board. I may try to solder it back on, but I may not, since it’s only for the speaker… Very disappointing anyway. The instructions should make it more clear just how delicate the socket itself is, especially right where the photo shows you inserting the spudger under the cable end to start dislodging it. It’s really hard to distinguish the cable end from the socket on this side!

jiclark - Replica

  • Stacca con delicatezza il cavo dell'altoparlante destro dal case superiore.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Rimuovi le viti seguenti, che fissano l'altoparlante destro al case superiore:

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 5,7 mm

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 6,5 mm

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 3,8 mm

Aggiungi Commento

  • Solleva l'altoparlante destro dal lato del terminale del cavo e allontanalo dal case.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Inserisci la punta di uno spudger sotto il cavo dell'altoparlante sinistro vicino al suo connettore e sollevalo dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica.

Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent).

barak - Replica

  • Rimuovi le viti seguenti, che fissano l'altoparlante sinistro al case superiore:

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 5,7 mm

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 6,5 mm

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 3,8 mm

Aggiungi Commento

  • Solleva l'angolo dell'altoparlante destro e fallo scorrere allontanandolo dalla batteria per rimuoverlo dal case superiore.

  • Stai attento a non far impigliare il cavo dell'altoparlante nella sede della vite presente sul lato del case.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Rimuovi le cinque viti Torx T5 da 3,7 mm che fissano la batteria al case superiore.

In my macbook pro retina, these are some kind of plastic screws. I cannot remove them.

adriendavernas - Replica

The plastic screws just need to be pulled out with a spudger/finger and you're good to go. I have the same model, there's also a screw on the power board not mentioned in this guide, takes a T5 screwdriver/bit

alex - Replica

Question - when putting the new battery back into the case, do we need to remove old glue/add new glue, use no glue at all, or place the battery in and then reheat to melt the old glue so that it will adhere to the new battery? Thanks!

chal740 - Replica

What is the part number for this battery, or where can I find it?

dfreeman110 -

I wish to ask the same question.

vbivanov -

My adhesive didn't have enough tack to hold the battery in. I just reassembled without it and can't hear the batteries moving, but I have the rubber grommets and not screws as MarkB mentioned. Fo future repairers, I'd recommend buying some nonpermanent two sided tape just so you have the option to fasten it in.

Vince Cipriani -

I wish they would find another way of securing the battery, this is ridiculous.

brian whittle - Replica

On each 'corner' of the frame that surrounds the two centre batteries, rather than 'plastic screws' mentioned by adriendavernas there are 'domed' rubber grommets. These presumably rest against the inside of the bottom cover when it is fitted thus supporting the batteries. As there were no screws underneath in these 4 positions, there is no need to remove these grommets. Agree with alex re: removing the extra T5 screw on the power board.

MarkB - Replica

After destroying the adhesive which secures the batteries (bad technique or lack of patience in my effort) what is recommended to secure the batteries when reassembling?

maxB - Replica

I only had the single far right screw to remove.

barak - Replica

My replacement A1582 battery actually had holes for the screws, though my original A1582 battery only had the 'domed' rubber grommets. Anyways, putting in the OEM A1582 battery without anything in the holes worked ok.

Srini Seetharaman - Replica

I wanted to put the rubber grommets on the new battery, so I used tweezers to get them back through the holes on the new battery

Dallin Christensen - Replica

  • Il liquido antiadesivo contenuto nel tuo kit può rovinare il rivestimento antiriflesso del display del tuo MacBook Pro.

  • Per proteggere il display, disponi un foglio di stagnola tra il display e la tastiera e lascialo lì mentre lavori.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Se hai un kit batterie iFixit con l'antiadesivo liquido, è ora di prepararti a usarlo.

  • In alternativa, se stai usando il metodo dell'iOpener caldo, salta i seguenti tre passi.

  • L'antiadesivo iFixit contiene acetone, un debole irritante per la pelle e gli occhi.

    • Indossa occhiali protettivi quando maneggi e applichi l'antiadesivo (gli occhiali protettivi sono inclusi nel tuo kit).

    • Non indossare lenti a contatto senza gli occhiali protettivi.

    • Anche i guanti protettivi sono inclusi nel tuo kit. Se ti preoccupa un'eventuale irritazione alla pelle, mettiti subito i guanti.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Apri il contenitore dell'antiadesivo.

  • Riempi la siringa inclusa nel kit con una piccola quantità (circa 1-2 millilitri) di antiadesivo.

    • È meglio non riempire la siringa con oltre 1-2 ml di antiadesivo alla volta per evitare di farne uscire troppo accidentalmente.

    • Riempi la siringa quando serve durante il resto della procedura.

Air can tilted upside down to freeze the adhesive works very well also. I just used this method today to pull a battery.

aadeshina - Replica

  • Applica uniformemente una modesta quantità di antiadesivo (circa 1 ml) sotto il bordo della cella della batteria più a destra.

  • Prima di procedere con il passo successivo, aspetta 2-3 minuti per dare tempo all'antiadesivo di penetrare sotto la cella della batteria.

I managed to remove the battery without the adhesive by using the thread technique. More info in this video: . Just make sure you have someone to help you and hold the laptop in place for you.

driesverfaillie - Replica

  • Se non hai un liquido antiadesivo, puoi usare un iOpener caldo per riscaldare e ammorbidire una sezione dell'adesivo che fissa la batteria al case superiore; quindi potrai procedere con delicatezza per staccarlo.

  • Usa l'iOpener caldo per coprire metà delle celle della batteria più a destra.

  • Dopo circa un minuto riscalda di nuovo l'iOpener e disponilo in modo da coprire l'altra metà delle celle della batteria più a destra.

I did not have an iOpener. I did not fancy using a heat gun on the batteries either so I used two flat metal spudgers to prise them off the body of the mac book. I hit the spudgers with a small hammer.

Alex Birkett - Replica

I popped the freaking iopener in the microwave following this instruction. Said to heat for 30 secs put on for a minute then reheat after that minute. Then read on the iopener that I shouldn't heat more the once unless after two minutes. Just wonderful.

Jennifer Myer - Replica

I used a sock filled with rice and it worked exactly the same. Microwaved it for 2 minutes (hot enough to barely hold) and set it on the batteries as above for 2 minutes.

Then I reheated it for a minute and opened up the laptop, and slide my DYI iOpener under so it was directly under the batteries (across the trackpad portion of the laptop). This worked great because the heat went straight thru the aluminum and softened the adhesive. I ended up letting the screen hang over the edge of the table while I pried the batteries out.

barak - Replica

This heating with the iOpener took me forever. I tried my fair share of heating followed by nudging slowly with a credit card 1 mm at a time. Finally pried it off after 30 mins.

Srini Seetharaman - Replica

  • Spingi una scheda di plastica tra la cella più a destra della batteria e il case superiore, tagliando l'adesivo che li tiene insieme.

  • Nel corso di questa procedura, stai attento a non danneggiare nessuna cella della batteria con i tuoi attrezzi. Una batteria al litio-ioni danneggiata può far fuoriuscire sostanze chimiche pericolose e/o prendere fuoco. Usa soltanto attrezzi di apertura in plastica.

  • Usando il metodo dell'iOpener caldo, se incontri un'eccessiva resistenza dello staccare la batteria, fermati e usa di nuovo l'iOpener per riscaldare la sezione su cui stai lavorando.

In addition to using the wheat bag/iOpener to loosen the batteries, I found it useful each time I inserted the plastic card under the batteries to give the card a 'wipe' with isopropyl alcohol to ensure that it didn't stick to the adhesive holding the batteries down. it also presumably eases the glue away from the batteries somewhat.

MarkB - Replica

Do the same tools and steps work on a MacBook Pro 15" late 2015 model?

Sean - Replica

Heat can be dangerous to Li-Ion batteries, no???

Alex - Replica

Excessive heat can be dangerous, but the iOpener is designed to never get hot enough to cause permanent damage. Using a heat gun or hot plate could be dangerous, but the iOpener method is the safest one we know of =)

Sam Lionheart -

I found it helpful to use some dental floss to help loosen each cell and then pry the rest off with the card

Dallin Christensen - Replica

  • Usa la scheda di plastica per sollevare la cella della batteria più a destra dal case superiore.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Ripeti questa procedura con la cella della batteria adiacente:

    • Applica una modesta quantità (circa 1 ml) di antiadesivo sotto la cella della batteria e aspetta 2-3 minuti per lasciarlo penetrare e ammorbidire l'adesivo.

    • In alternativa, scalda di nuovo questa sezione con il tuo iOpener se necessario.

    • Spingi una scheda di plastica per circa 2,5 cm tra la cella della batteria e il case superiore; fai leva sulla cella per staccare tutto l'adesivo.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Lascia temporaneamente la tua scheda di plastica sotto le due celle della batteria più a destra per impedire che possano incollarsi di nuovo al case superiore.

  • Se usi un iOpener, scaldalo e riapplicalo di nuovo, questa volta sulle celle della batteria più a sinistra.

    • Anche questa volta, lascia l'iOpener in ciascuna posizione per circa un minuto, scaldandolo tra una fase all'altra, per riscaldare le due metà delle celle più a sinistra della batteria.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Ripeti la procedura descritta in precedenza per separare dal case superiore le due celle della batteria più a sinistra.

    • Ricordati di applicare una modesta quantità (circa 1 ml) di antiadesivo per ognuna delle celle della batteria e di aspettare 2-3 minuti per lasciarlo penetrare e ammorbidire l'adesivo.

    • Usa una seconda scheda di plastica per separare le due celle più a sinistra dal case superiore.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Lascia la seconda scheda nell'angolo tra le due celle di sinistra.

  • Nei passi successivi, puoi usare una terza scheda oppure la scheda dell'angolo destro. L'adesivo dell'angolo destro dovrebbe essere asciutto/freddo abbastanza per far sì che le celle possano essere tirate via di nuovo in caso di necessità.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Per staccare l'adesivo che fissa le due celle centrali rimaste, applica circa un altro millilitro di antiadesivo liquido sotto ogni cella (oppure usa l'iOpener).

    • Può essere utile sollevare di qualche centimetro un lato del tuo MacBook Pro per far affluire l'antiadesivo nella direzione corretta, sotto le celle della batteria. Puoi usare un grosso libro o un blocco di è sparso per tenere sollevato un lato del tuo MacBook Pro mentre lavori.

    • Spingi una scheda di plastica per circa 2,5 cm tra la cella centrale sinistra della batteria e il case superiore per separare la cella.

My laptop had a strip over these center batteries. I had to remove that before getting the center batteries off.

Srini Seetharaman - Replica

My plastic cards were hitting a black trackpad backing. I thought this was the adhesive not coming off. I also didn’t want to harm the battery and didn’t bring the card up enough.

I found out by going through one of the side batteries, but could have just raised the tip of the card very slightly.

Cameron Malek - Replica

  • Tira fuori la scheda e inseriscila per circa 2,5 cm tra la cella centrale destra della batteria e il case superiore per separare la cella.

Aggiungi Commento

  • A questo punto le celle esterne dovrebbero essere libere e dovresti trovare un po' di resistenza solo dalle celle centrali. Se non è questo il caso, torna ai passi precedenti e stacca completamente dal case superiore le quattro celle più esterne.

  • Fai leva sotto le due celle centrali per staccare l'ultimo adesivo rimasto e solleva la batteria dal dispositivo.

I found that gentle application from a heat gun works well enough to soften the adhesive. Use a plastic card to help as you go. Use caution not to over heat anything.

John Lerefebvre - Replica

  • Rimuovi la batteria.

  • Prima di installare la tua nuova batteria, rimuovi tutto il vecchio adesivo dal case del MacBook Pro.

    • Con un po' di fortuna, dovresti riuscire un po' alla volta a staccare ogni striscia di adesivo con le dita.

    • In caso contrario, bagna ogni striscia di adesivo con un po' di antiadesivo per 2-3 minuti e poi grattala via con uno strumento di plastica. Può essere richiesto abbastanza lavoro, quindi cerca di avere pazienza.

    • Elimina ogni traccia dell'adesivo rimanente e lascia asciugare all'aria il tuo MacBook Pro per qualche minuto.

  • La batteria sostitutiva inclusa nel tuo kit iFixit è dotata di adesivo preinstallato. Controlla bene la posizione e l'allineamento della batteria prima di staccare la pellicola che copre l'adesivo; quindi premi con decisione ogni cella. Se ci fossero ulteriori pellicole o nastri che non erano presenti sulla tua batteria originale, rimuovili ora.

  • Calibra la tua batteria prima di usarla: falla scaricare per tutta la notte, poi caricala al 100% e scaricala di nuovo finché il tuo MacBook Pro non si spegnerà automaticamente. Caricala ancora una volta e quindi usala normalmente.

  • Se noti qualsiasi comportamento insolito o problemi dopo aver installato la tua batteria nuova, potrebbe essere necessario resettare l'SMC (System Management Controller) del tuo MacBook Pro.

RECOMMENDATION: The battery connector and associated screw are critical when considering battery alignment. Also don’t forget the left and right speaker assemblies when aligning the two small outer cells. I didn’t consider these and had issues.

Also, keep the transparent top film on the battery to keep the cells aligned with respect to each other, and always support all the cells if handling upside down.

Cameron Malek - Replica

I agree, if you don’t reinstall the speaker assemblies before installing the battery, they may be impossible to put back in after the battery has adhered

Dallin Christensen -


Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

Altre 69 persone hanno completato questa guida.

Un ringraziamento speciale a questi traduttori:


albertob ci sta aiutando ad aggiustare il mondo! Vuoi partecipare?
Inizia a tradurre ›

Sam Lionheart

Membro da: 18/10/2012

333.729 Reputazione

534 Guide realizzate


iFixit Membro di iFixit


107 Membri

6.519 Guide realizzate

What is the part number for the mid 2014 13 inch MacBook Pro battery? I see a lot of batteries for sale for the mid 2013 online. Are they compatible?

johnpaeng - Replica

Macbook Pro A1502 not charging after disassembly/assembly (I just wanted to clean the touchpad). MagSafe is orange but the Macbook is not charging - running only when plugged in. MacOS says the battery needs to be replaced - even if it has 82% charged.. I alson tried reset of SMC and PRAM with no effect..

Any advice? Thanks

tommy69 - Replica

Same problem here. Did you find a solution?

Tim Bo -

guys same problem, did you find some solution? @tim_bo @tommy69

Alpay -

Yes, same thing. Had to replace battery and now it’s working.

Check if it’s actually charging. My battery status stated that it needs to be replaced and mac was running on ac instead of battery.

Dominika -

Bonjour, mon problème : mon Mac Book Pro 13" 2014 mes pourcentage descende de 2 pourcents toutes les 2 minutes il tiens a peine 3h a votre avis vaut t'il le coup que je change la batterie ?


Stryken Strix - Replica

I would advise working to step six, then skipping to step 16. Take the speaker cables and plastic frame, once the screws are out, and gently fold them back. I used a stiff plastic-about the thickness and size of a credit card to work the glue off from under the battery. No heat or alcohol. All together, from opening to closing, a very simple 15 minute job.

I followed the steps and unfortunately the left speaker socket came off of the control board. Which is why I advise not doing the steps between 6-15. Once the side frames and speaker is off, just fold them back and out of the way.

Brij Verma - Replica

Thank you for the post. I used it for a friend whose battery was not charging. I am fairly familiar with Macs but don't work on them everyday. This guide was very helpful. Now she has a new battery (good seller on eBay...less than $60) and is back up and going. Thank you again for the post, I greatly appreciate it (enough to give a comment...and I usually never give comments).

MacFixer - Replica

I recently completed this guide and everything went very smoothly. I skipped many of the steps leading up to the adhesive removal, and only found it necessary to pull up the left and right speakers. My adhesive remover had evaporated, so I just used some nail polish (100% acetone) and leverage to get the battery cells to come off the case. Be aware that once you stick the batteries in, they will be very difficult to pull back off. I put mine in slightly crooked, but everything powered up fine and my macbook's battery is good as new. My only real struggle was that since I put my batteries in a bit crooked, the case back wouldn't attach flush to the body, so I had to go back in and wiggle the small tubes surrounding the main cell so they would be seated properly.

Thanks for the guide!

David Thibodeaux - Replica

Do you know when the repair kit is going to be available again?

carlos a. - Replica

Piece of cake. Hardest part was disconnecting the speaker connections, because it’s a delicate job and you really don’t know how much stress you can put on the connection until you undo the first one.

Many have suggested not removing the speakers, but I felt it gave me far better access and leverage to pry the battery out.

Gary Gray - Replica

IFIXIT Rocks! Thank you so much for the fantastic guides.

I wish you the greatest success in 2018!

Langston Holland

soundscapes - Replica

I found this guide to be great. My first time replacing a battery on any laptop. The only hard part was of course removing the old battery. I used the hair dryer method I saw on YouTube. Took me a while, over an hour, only because it was my first time and I wanted to make sure I did it right. Everything powered back up and is working normal. I am so glad I found these guides. Thank you so much. Apple store here in Jacksonville, Fl wanted to send my laptop out to a service center for a track pad replacement, if that was what was needed, for up to $400. Meaning, it might not cost that much, but it could, so be prepared. My issue was a trackpad that was not clicking any more. Fiddled with the screw a bit and it still wouldn’t click right, checked the battery cycle and saw that it was at 890 so that needed to be replaced. So got my battery from here and replaced that and fiddled with the same trackpad a bit and it is better, but still won’t click the same as new, but it does work just OK.

judymarie58 - Replica

Should I be worried about ESD? Anti-static Wrist strap? Plug-in the MacBook to have it grounded? Perform the replacement completely naked on hardwood floors in a moist environment? Or just touch a part of the metal laptop frame before I start touching more delicate components?

Dylan Bartley - Replica

@dylanf79 Yes, always have a strategy for protecting against ESD. Modern devices have a lot of ESD protection baked in, and using ESD-safe tools like the ones recommended in this guide goes a long way—but still, better safe than sorry. Use a wrist strap if you like, or just touch a metal part of the chassis frequently during the repair. Remove rings and other metal jewelry from your hands before you start. Definitely avoid environments with a high static charge (performing the repair while shuffling back and forth across a carpeted room not recommended).

Jeff Suovanen -

I gave a friend my old 2014 MacBook Pro and got myself a new one. I loved the machine, but she needed one. A week after she had it, she spilled a glass of water on it. After drying it out, it worked fine, but wouldn’t run from, or charge the battery. Most people suggested it needed an new $700+ logic board, but a few suggested I start with just a battery replacement. So I bought the kit from Ifixit. The kit was complete with everything I needed. The step by step instructions were clear and easy to follow. And best of all the battery replacement alone has the machine working as good as new for only $99.

Thanks Ifixit!!!

Mike D’Anna - Replica

Done, thanks a lot.

We’ll see if my work is valuable in time by now.

SMC/NVRAM initialisation have been necessary as expected, but all works at first try.

Some comments though,

- in my mid 2014 MBP the battery has only pads instead of screws, and the battery provided in the kit needs a bit of tweaking to fit inside, though nothing that hard.

- maybe you should add some advices about having a little magnifying glass with you to disconnect precisely and safely the connectors with the spudger (especially if you’re older than 50 like me :D) and a blower (the kind you use for photography gears for instance) to get off the dust accumulated in time in the inside. A little vacuum can help to, if handled very carefully (to avoid aspiring little screws or parts of course).

- could be a good advice too to tell people to place the sheet of aluminum foil even before the beginning of the work, as it is safer to manipulate the computer while it is still closed.

However excellent “how to” and toolkit.

Thanks again

Pierre Lagarde - Replica

좋은 정본데 실제 하기는 쉽지 않을듯하다.

99불 박에 안하니까 해볼만은 할것 같은데, 뭔 문제점들이 이렇게 많이 나오냐.

teambase - Replica

Aggiungi Commento

Visualizza Statistiche:

Ultime 24 Ore: 147

Ultimi 7 Giorni: 765

Ultimi 30 Giorni: 3,486

Tutti i Tempi: 131,777