Usa questa guida per rimuovere in sicurezza la batteria incollata del tuo MacBook Pro. Un compito che si svolge meglio con l'aiuto di un kit da sostituzione batteria iFixit; il prodotto antiadesivo nel tuo kit scioglierà l'adesivo che fissa la batteria, permettendoti di rimuoverla facilmente. In alternativa, puoi usare un iOpener per applicare una modesta quantità dic alore per ammorbidire l'adesivo prima di provare a staccare la batteria.

Il prodotto antiadesivo iFixit è altamente infiammabile. Questa procedura va eseguita in un'area ben ventilata. Non fumare e non lavorare vicino a una fiamma libera durante la procedura.

Per la tua sicurezza, scarica la batteria del tuo MacBook Pro prima di iniziare questa procedura.. Una batteria al litio-ioni carica può creare un incendio pericoloso e incontrollabile se viene forata accidentalmente.

Nota: il solvente usato per sciogliere l'adesivo della batteria può danneggiare alcuni tipi di plastica, come le coperture in plastica degli altoparlanti del MacBook Pro. Stai attento quando applichi l'antiadesivo.

Rimuovi le 10 viti seguenti che fissano il coperchio inferiore al case superiore:
  • Rimuovi le 10 viti seguenti che fissano il coperchio inferiore al case superiore:

    • Due viti Pentalobe da 2,3 mm

    • Otto viti Pentalobe da 3,0 mm

For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

Carlos - Replica

Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

Fredrik -

Is the Pentalobe screwdriver mentioned in the tools list? I did not have one so I used a filed down flat blade screwdriver. Not a fantastic idea, but it works.

Alex Birkett - Replica

Yes, it's mentioned on the top of this page. P5 Pentalobe to be precise. I didn't have one either, so I bought one from iFixit and that works fantastic. An absolutely precise fit, which is important especially when you might open your MacBook a couple of times during the years you own it. Not using the correct tool might do more harm to the screws than you want! I once had this with a Lenovo Yoga 3 Pro, which has Torx screws (T4 I think) and I used cheap Chinese quality tools, with the result that both the tool and one of the screws are damaged.

addvariety -

the macbook in the picture is 2012. does it has the same structure as 2013?

Edison - Replica

I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Get it!

marketing - Replica

is P5 supposed to be for all 10 screws? it works on the 2x 2.3mm at the top, but not for the 8x others for me. what size screwdriver for the 3mm? thanks

monsieurescargot - Replica

Yes, the p5 works for all 10 pentalobe screw heads for bottom cover. The the different size mm reference only refers to the difference in length of the screws, but again both heads are p5.

Antoine Thornton - Replica

Infila le tue dita tra il case superiore e quello inferiore.
  • Infila le tue dita tra il case superiore e quello inferiore.

  • Con delicatezza, tira il coperchio inferiore per staccarlo da quello superiore.

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  • Il case inferiore è collegato a quello superiore con due clip di plastica in posizione centrale.

  • Durante il rimontaggio, spingi con delicatezza il centro del case inferiore per riattaccare le due clip in plastica.

There are two screws that are shorter-they go to the back near the vent.

wrbandllm - Replica

This was already mentioned at the start, it says 2x 2.3mm screws and those are coloured red instead of orange for the other ones in iFixit's image.

addvariety - Replica

What is the black vinyl-y sticker on the inside of the case (some sort of shield?). I was forced to slightly puncture it in order to replace the feet on my laptop. Thanks in advance.

Tommy Huang - Replica

  • Se necessario, rimuovere la copertura in plastica attaccata alla scheda contatti della batteria.

Do you know where I can purchase this plastic cover? Mine is missing and no one will work on my computer without it.

jodieabc - Replica

There is no point on going near the battery or logic board. I cut out these steps with no issue. It is precautionary but unnecessary.

Jaime Leonard - Replica

  • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore della batteria in verticale dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica.

  • Accertati di sollevare solo il connettore e non lo zoccolino, per evitare il rischio di danni permanenti alla scheda logica.

I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

jramsey21 - Replica

I have the some problem. I was thinking to replace the whole battery but I am not it will solve the problem. Any suggestions?

salvatorebarbera -

Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

andrehedegaard -

Have either of you replaced the battery and/or circuit board to fix the MacBooks with the water damage ? I have the same problem with the MacBook working fine when connected to power but dying immediately when the power cord is removed.

Steve - Replica

Hi, Steve. I had the same problem: Macbook Pro 15 retina with coffee damage. And it worked fine when connected to power. I made it working after replacing the whole battery. It seems that circuit connected to the battery becomes disabled to prevent short circuit.

Vadim Gribanov -

When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

Ethan Tarquin - Replica

Thanks for the comment. My MBP isn’t powering on after I walked through these steps, and I assume it is because the battery connector isn’t fully connected. (I can’t check yet since I borrowed the pentalobe screwdriver)

Caleb Steinborn -


I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

Jonas Ehrs -

If I only want to replace the trackpad cable, then which steps should I skip? This step seems unnecessary

Parth Gudhka - Replica

  • Piega il connettore della batteria in modo che non interferisca, per prevenire un contatto accidentale con lo zoccolino durante la riparazione.

If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

sebasgaes - Replica

I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

LaymanLab - Replica

That’s a great idea!

David Lilliebridge - Replica

I used a small piece of paper to prevent the connector from connecting, no need to wrestle with even low-stick adhesive.

dbrick - Replica

  • Rimuovi le due viti Torx T5 da 2,1 mm che fissano la staffa del cavo della scheda I/O dalla parte della scheda logica.

At this point it's a good idea to take sheet of printer paper, like A4, and press each screw into the paper roughly in the position it was removed from. When it comes time to reassemble it, you wont get the different lengths mixed up.

Martin Gray - Replica

This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, skipped the I/O Cable removal (Steps 7, 8, 9, 10) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery.

barak - Replica

After this step I continued from step 13, the steps in between were not really necessary in my opinion ( I succeeded the replacement without them). Just be careful not to touch these connectors during replacement.

driesverfaillie - Replica

  • Afferra con un paio di pinzette la staffa del cavo della scheda I/O e rimuovila dal MacBook.

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  • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore della scheda in verticale dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica.

  • Accertati di far leva solo sul cavo della scheda I/O e non sullo zoccolino stesso, altrimenti potresti danneggiare la scheda logica.

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  • Solleva in alto il terminale dal lato della scheda logica del cavo della scheda I/O; quindi ripiegalo in una posizione che non dia fastidio.

  • Per evitare danni al cavo, ripiegalo solo all'altezza della curva presente nel terminale dal lato della scheda I/O.

I removed I/O Board cable completely on both ends using a flat end plastic spudger tool. I did not feel comfortable “bending” it as shown in Pic. Be careful to not damage sockets on either end when removing battery. Extra care to not get any adhesive debris in exposed sockets. I have used the solvent with syringe and that can get rather messy and risk getting liquid onto keyboard/screen/motherboard components etc/. This time I used a plastic “Disposable Putty Knife” from Ace hardware. Speakers where easily removed in subsequent steps. Started pushing in from edges with plastic putty knife and battery cells separated surprisingly easy. This method is clean & much easier than the dental floss struggle!! I used Googone with QTips to remove adhesive remnants.

lamajr - Replica

  • Infila con delicatezza la punta di uno spudger sotto il cavo dell'altoparlante destro vicino al suo connettore e sollevano dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica.

Same as my comment on Step 7: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent)

barak - Replica

WARNING TO ANYONE WHO DOES THIS STEP! Be very careful to distinguish the cable end from the socket! I just managed to break the entire socket off of the logic board. I may try to solder it back on, but I may not, since it’s only for the speaker… Very disappointing anyway. The instructions should make it more clear just how delicate the socket itself is, especially right where the photo shows you inserting the spudger under the cable end to start dislodging it. It’s really hard to distinguish the cable end from the socket on this side!

jiclark - Replica

  • Stacca con delicatezza il cavo dell'altoparlante destro dal case superiore.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Rimuovi le viti seguenti, che fissano l'altoparlante destro al case superiore:

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 5,7 mm

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 6,5 mm

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 3,8 mm

Aggiungi Commento

  • Solleva l'altoparlante destro dal lato del terminale del cavo e allontanalo dal case.

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  • Inserisci la punta di uno spudger sotto il cavo dell'altoparlante sinistro vicino al suo connettore e sollevalo dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica.

Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent).

barak - Replica

  • Rimuovi le viti seguenti, che fissano l'altoparlante sinistro al case superiore:

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 5,7 mm

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 6,5 mm

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 3,8 mm

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  • Solleva l'angolo dell'altoparlante destro e fallo scorrere allontanandolo dalla batteria per rimuoverlo dal case superiore.

  • Stai attento a non far impigliare il cavo dell'altoparlante nella sede della vite presente sul lato del case.

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  • Rimuovi le cinque viti Torx T5 da 3,7 mm che fissano la batteria al case superiore.

In my macbook pro retina, these are some kind of plastic screws. I cannot remove them.

adriendavernas - Replica

The plastic screws just need to be pulled out with a spudger/finger and you're good to go. I have the same model, there's also a screw on the power board not mentioned in this guide, takes a T5 screwdriver/bit

alex - Replica

Question - when putting the new battery back into the case, do we need to remove old glue/add new glue, use no glue at all, or place the battery in and then reheat to melt the old glue so that it will adhere to the new battery? Thanks!

chal740 - Replica

What is the part number for this battery, or where can I find it?

dfreeman110 -

I wish to ask the same question.

vbivanov -

My adhesive didn't have enough tack to hold the battery in. I just reassembled without it and can't hear the batteries moving, but I have the rubber grommets and not screws as MarkB mentioned. Fo future repairers, I'd recommend buying some nonpermanent two sided tape just so you have the option to fasten it in.

Vince Cipriani -

I wish they would find another way of securing the battery, this is ridiculous.

brian whittle - Replica

On each 'corner' of the frame that surrounds the two centre batteries, rather than 'plastic screws' mentioned by adriendavernas there are 'domed' rubber grommets. These presumably rest against the inside of the bottom cover when it is fitted thus supporting the batteries. As there were no screws underneath in these 4 positions, there is no need to remove these grommets. Agree with alex re: removing the extra T5 screw on the power board.

MarkB - Replica

After destroying the adhesive which secures the batteries (bad technique or lack of patience in my effort) what is recommended to secure the batteries when reassembling?

maxB - Replica

I only had the single far right screw to remove.

barak - Replica

My replacement A1582 battery actually had holes for the screws, though my original A1582 battery only had the 'domed' rubber grommets. Anyways, putting in the OEM A1582 battery without anything in the holes worked ok.

Srini Seetharaman - Replica

I wanted to put the rubber grommets on the new battery, so I used tweezers to get them back through the holes on the new battery

Dallin Christensen - Replica

  • Il liquido antiadesivo contenuto nel tuo kit può rovinare il rivestimento antiriflesso del display del tuo MacBook Pro.

  • Per proteggere il display, disponi un foglio di stagnola tra il display e la tastiera e lascialo lì mentre lavori.

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  • Se hai un kit batterie iFixit con l'antiadesivo liquido, è ora di prepararti a usarlo.

  • In alternativa, se stai usando il metodo dell'iOpener caldo, salta i seguenti tre passi.

  • L'antiadesivo iFixit contiene acetone, un debole irritante per la pelle e gli occhi.

    • Indossa occhiali protettivi quando maneggi e applichi l'antiadesivo (gli occhiali protettivi sono inclusi nel tuo kit).

    • Non indossare lenti a contatto senza gli occhiali protettivi.

    • Anche i guanti protettivi sono inclusi nel tuo kit. Se ti preoccupa un'eventuale irritazione alla pelle, mettiti subito i guanti.

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  • Apri il contenitore dell'antiadesivo.

  • Riempi la siringa inclusa nel kit con una piccola quantità (circa 1-2 millilitri) di antiadesivo.

    • È meglio non riempire la siringa con oltre 1-2 ml di antiadesivo alla volta per evitare di farne uscire troppo accidentalmente.

    • Riempi la siringa quando serve durante il resto della procedura.

Air can tilted upside down to freeze the adhesive works very well also. I just used this method today to pull a battery.

aadeshina - Replica

  • Applica uniformemente una modesta quantità di antiadesivo (circa 1 ml) sotto il bordo della cella della batteria più a destra.

  • Prima di procedere con il passo successivo, aspetta 2-3 minuti per dare tempo all'antiadesivo di penetrare sotto la cella della batteria.

I managed to remove the battery without the adhesive by using the thread technique. More info in this video: . Just make sure you have someone to help you and hold the laptop in place for you.

driesverfaillie - Replica

  • Se non hai un liquido antiadesivo, puoi usare un iOpener caldo per riscaldare e ammorbidire una sezione dell'adesivo che fissa la batteria al case superiore; quindi potrai procedere con delicatezza per staccarlo.

  • Usa l'iOpener caldo per coprire metà delle celle della batteria più a destra.

  • Dopo circa un minuto riscalda di nuovo l'iOpener e disponilo in modo da coprire l'altra metà delle celle della batteria più a destra.

I did not have an iOpener. I did not fancy using a heat gun on the batteries either so I used two flat metal spudgers to prise them off the body of the mac book. I hit the spudgers with a small hammer.

Alex Birkett - Replica

I popped the freaking iopener in the microwave following this instruction. Said to heat for 30 secs put on for a minute then reheat after that minute. Then read on the iopener that I shouldn't heat more the once unless after two minutes. Just wonderful.

Jennifer Myer - Replica

I used a sock filled with rice and it worked exactly the same. Microwaved it for 2 minutes (hot enough to barely hold) and set it on the batteries as above for 2 minutes.

Then I reheated it for a minute and opened up the laptop, and slide my DYI iOpener under so it was directly under the batteries (across the trackpad portion of the laptop). This worked great because the heat went straight thru the aluminum and softened the adhesive. I ended up letting the screen hang over the edge of the table while I pried the batteries out.

barak - Replica

This heating with the iOpener took me forever. I tried my fair share of heating followed by nudging slowly with a credit card 1 mm at a time. Finally pried it off after 30 mins.

Srini Seetharaman - Replica

  • Spingi una scheda di plastica tra la cella più a destra della batteria e il case superiore, tagliando l'adesivo che li tiene insieme.

  • Nel corso di questa procedura, stai attento a non danneggiare nessuna cella della batteria con i tuoi attrezzi. Una batteria al litio-ioni danneggiata può far fuoriuscire sostanze chimiche pericolose e/o prendere fuoco. Usa soltanto attrezzi di apertura in plastica.

  • Usando il metodo dell'iOpener caldo, se incontri un'eccessiva resistenza dello staccare la batteria, fermati e usa di nuovo l'iOpener per riscaldare la sezione su cui stai lavorando.

In addition to using the wheat bag/iOpener to loosen the batteries, I found it useful each time I inserted the plastic card under the batteries to give the card a 'wipe' with isopropyl alcohol to ensure that it didn't stick to the adhesive holding the batteries down. it also presumably eases the glue away from the batteries somewhat.

MarkB - Replica

Do the same tools and steps work on a MacBook Pro 15" late 2015 model?

Sean - Replica

Heat can be dangerous to Li-Ion batteries, no???

Alex - Replica

Excessive heat can be dangerous, but the iOpener is designed to never get hot enough to cause permanent damage. Using a heat gun or hot plate could be dangerous, but the iOpener method is the safest one we know of =)

Sam Lionheart -

I found it helpful to use some dental floss to help loosen each cell and then pry the rest off with the card

Dallin Christensen - Replica

  • Usa la scheda di plastica per sollevare la cella della batteria più a destra dal case superiore.

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  • Ripeti questa procedura con la cella della batteria adiacente:

    • Applica una modesta quantità (circa 1 ml) di antiadesivo sotto la cella della batteria e aspetta 2-3 minuti per lasciarlo penetrare e ammorbidire l'adesivo.

    • In alternativa, scalda di nuovo questa sezione con il tuo iOpener se necessario.

    • Spingi una scheda di plastica per circa 2,5 cm tra la cella della batteria e il case superiore; fai leva sulla cella per staccare tutto l'adesivo.

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  • Lascia temporaneamente la tua scheda di plastica sotto le due celle della batteria più a destra per impedire che possano incollarsi di nuovo al case superiore.

  • Se usi un iOpener, scaldalo e riapplicalo di nuovo, questa volta sulle celle della batteria più a sinistra.

    • Anche questa volta, lascia l'iOpener in ciascuna posizione per circa un minuto, scaldandolo tra una fase all'altra, per riscaldare le due metà delle celle più a sinistra della batteria.

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  • Ripeti la procedura descritta in precedenza per separare dal case superiore le due celle della batteria più a sinistra.

    • Ricordati di applicare una modesta quantità (circa 1 ml) di antiadesivo per ognuna delle celle della batteria e di aspettare 2-3 minuti per lasciarlo penetrare e ammorbidire l'adesivo.

    • Usa una seconda scheda di plastica per separare le due celle più a sinistra dal case superiore.

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  • Lascia la seconda scheda nell'angolo tra le due celle di sinistra.

  • Nei passi successivi, puoi usare una terza scheda oppure la scheda dell'angolo destro. L'adesivo dell'angolo destro dovrebbe essere asciutto/freddo abbastanza per far sì che le celle possano essere tirate via di nuovo in caso di necessità.

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  • Per staccare l'adesivo che fissa le due celle centrali rimaste, applica circa un altro millilitro di antiadesivo liquido sotto ogni cella (oppure usa l'iOpener).

    • Può essere utile sollevare di qualche centimetro un lato del tuo MacBook Pro per far affluire l'antiadesivo nella direzione corretta, sotto le celle della batteria. Puoi usare un grosso libro o un blocco di è sparso per tenere sollevato un lato del tuo MacBook Pro mentre lavori.

    • Spingi una scheda di plastica per circa 2,5 cm tra la cella centrale sinistra della batteria e il case superiore per separare la cella.

My laptop had a strip over these center batteries. I had to remove that before getting the center batteries off.

Srini Seetharaman - Replica

My plastic cards were hitting a black trackpad backing. I thought this was the adhesive not coming off. I also didn’t want to harm the battery and didn’t bring the card up enough.

I found out by going through one of the side batteries, but could have just raised the tip of the card very slightly.

Cameron Malek - Replica

  • Tira fuori la scheda e inseriscila per circa 2,5 cm tra la cella centrale destra della batteria e il case superiore per separare la cella.

Aggiungi Commento

  • A questo punto le celle esterne dovrebbero essere libere e dovresti trovare un po' di resistenza solo dalle celle centrali. Se non è questo il caso, torna ai passi precedenti e stacca completamente dal case superiore le quattro celle più esterne.

  • Fai leva sotto le due celle centrali per staccare l'ultimo adesivo rimasto e solleva la batteria dal dispositivo.

I found that gentle application from a heat gun works well enough to soften the adhesive. Use a plastic card to help as you go. Use caution not to over heat anything.

John Lerefebvre - Replica

  • Rimuovi la batteria.

  • Prima di installare la tua nuova batteria, rimuovi tutto il vecchio adesivo dal case del MacBook Pro.

    • Con un po' di fortuna, dovresti riuscire un po' alla volta a staccare ogni striscia di adesivo con le dita.

    • In caso contrario, bagna ogni striscia di adesivo con un po' di antiadesivo per 2-3 minuti e poi grattala via con uno strumento di plastica. Può essere richiesto abbastanza lavoro, quindi cerca di avere pazienza.

    • Elimina ogni traccia dell'adesivo rimanente e lascia asciugare all'aria il tuo MacBook Pro per qualche minuto.

  • La batteria sostitutiva inclusa nel tuo kit iFixit è dotata di adesivo preinstallato. Controlla bene la posizione e l'allineamento della batteria prima di staccare la pellicola che copre l'adesivo; quindi premi con decisione ogni cella. Se ci fossero ulteriori pellicole o nastri che non erano presenti sulla tua batteria originale, rimuovili ora.

  • Calibra la tua batteria prima di usarla: falla scaricare per tutta la notte, poi caricala al 100% e scaricala di nuovo finché il tuo MacBook Pro non si spegnerà automaticamente. Caricala ancora una volta e quindi usala normalmente.

  • Se noti qualsiasi comportamento insolito o problemi dopo aver installato la tua batteria nuova, potrebbe essere necessario resettare l'SMC (System Management Controller) del tuo MacBook Pro.

RECOMMENDATION: The battery connector and associated screw are critical when considering battery alignment. Also don’t forget the left and right speaker assemblies when aligning the two small outer cells. I didn’t consider these and had issues.

Also, keep the transparent top film on the battery to keep the cells aligned with respect to each other, and always support all the cells if handling upside down.

Cameron Malek - Replica

I agree, if you don’t reinstall the speaker assemblies before installing the battery, they may be impossible to put back in after the battery has adhered

Dallin Christensen -


Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

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Great thanks to the author for this flawless guide! I've just finished the replacement with this guide step by step, it's really useful and considerable! Now I'm so happy to see the battery health comes back to 100%! So relieving! Thanks again!

HU CHEN - Replica

I'm having an issue with replacing the wifi antenna on a a1502 MacBook, because the socket for the wifi connector from the antenna came off and I am not sure how to reattach it properly because it gives me a "No Hardware Detected" issue. How do I take apart the screen to remove the antenna? Do I need to deal with heating glue to remove the screen cover?

Bobby Quinn - Replica

I have a 13" Mac book pro that sustained water damage, the laptop continued towoork bit the battery never gained charge and slowly depleted even on mains power, once the battery reached 0% it no longer powers on regardless of mains power, I think it's an issue with the IC would a battery replacement fix this?

Rich searle - Replica

I did this. Took me about 1 hour. The iopener required more than 30s for me to heat up, but I got it done. My macbook was damaged because of a wine spill. Not sure how the battery got damaged as a result, as there appeared to be no liquid there, but... That was it.

Also, a bunch of the steps are not necessary, if you are careful. You do need to get the speakers out, but you don't need to do some of the other stuff. I skipped 7-12 and 15, instead folding over the speakers carefully, without detaching them.

howieu - Replica

The procedure worked perfect. Thanks. It wasn't very difficult really, the only challenge was to get the old batteries loose from the adhesive. Warming up the batteries and working with the card is the solution.

Ib Alstrup - Replica

Thanks to the author for making a really excellent guide! To remove the glued batteries I used an ifixit putty knife and heated it with a miniature blowtorch. Then I placed the heated ifixit putty knife underneath the batteries which melted the glue and enabled me to lift the batteries out.

Philip Kapp - Replica

Thanks for the guide. Very easy to follow and execute without missing any critical steps that could have caused damage for a first timer. It was a real bear getting through the adhesive, but patience persevered. Two (sore) thumbs up.

Aaron Lorton - Replica

For the second time all is fine, delivery time and everything is working well. I replaced the battery and the display on my MacBook Pro a1502 following the tutorials. The most difficult part for me was removing the old the battery .


david - Replica

What happens when you put the new battery in? Do you have to put more glue to get the new battery to stick or is it already pretty sticky? Do you even need to worry about putting more glue/adhesive stuff?

Pae Yung - Replica

Quick delivery ;)

Very useful guide. Everything is working great again. The hardest part was removing the old battery.


Jaeger - Replica

Thank you very mutch, work`s perfect!

Stefan R - Replica

Fantastic guide guys - well done ! I bought a new battery on eBay and would have been in a lot of trouble without this guide. For what it's worth -there seem to be a lot of questions about glue. I bought a genuine Apple battery, which came complete with glue strips ready to go. Once I removed the old battery and glue strips, I cleaned it up with isopropyl alcohol and stuck the new battery to the clean surface without a hitch.

Martin Gray - Replica

Very useful guide. Thanks a lot. The mac works now perfect.

office - Replica

Very useful guide.

office - Replica

Thank you very mutch, work`s perfect

himdad - Replica

First guide that I've used from your site. Very simple to follow making the process extremely stress free. Couldn't be more grateful! Thank you!!

Gavin Seamer - Replica

A grand success! Thanks so much! This guide and the battery kit were perfect.

Sage Freter - Replica

was your keyboard working after?

Herman -

I installed the battery no problems, but now my keyboard is nonresponsive. Please help!

Herman - Replica

Take a close look at the keyboard cable ribbon and connector—is there any damage? Try re-seating the cable if you haven't already—flip up the small locking bar on the connector, gently pull the cable out, reinsert it and lock it down.

Jeff Suovanen -

I would add that approaching 2 central battery packs from side is easier (at least on my Mac). Otherwise, great directions for battery removal. Alignment of replacement battery pack, with adhesive covers removed, is somewhat challenging, but I'm back in business.

Dean Livelybrooks - Replica

Great success with this guide. Some of the steps weren't necessary (i/o board cable removal and speaker cable removal) but all in all it's a fantastic guide. Saved me $$ and only took an hour instead of having it at the repair shop for 5 days!

barak - Replica

MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement Chinese translation check now!If there is anything need to be improved or revise,welcome to contact me,thanks:)

大大大大大瓜砸 - Replica

Fantastic guide!! Like others mentioned, I skipped steps 7-12 and 15. I used the liquid adhesive remover and was just careful with where I applied it and where it went.

It did take me longer than others, about 2.5 hours.

Thank you so much for this! A repair show wanted $400 for battery and labor, and wanted to keep the computer for a week!

Jonathon Haradon - Replica

I’ve used a thin string to remove batteries. It went smooth and I was finished in about an 1hr. Also, I skipped some of the steps, just unscrewed speakers to the side without removing cables. Tools provided with battery are amazing, especially for this one and done situation. iFixit saved me some money. Guide is very easy to follow. Thanks guys!

Marinko Marinko - Replica

With heat instead of solvents, Barak is correct in skipping the speaker removal. Be careful in fitting where the wires cross to the two side batteries under the front bumpers. Great fix kit from ifixit!!

tremm298 - Replica

Thanks so much for putting this together, it worked like a charm and you’ve saved me a ton of money. I appreciate it!

Henry Briscoe - Replica

Thanks, it worked but after I was done 2 keyboard keys came off because of the adhesive remover now idk what to do

abbas jassim - Replica

This guide made everything easy peasy, lemon squeezy! Lol. Easy to follow and love the pic by pic. Thank you.

Alex Valenzuela - Replica

Easy to follow. Glad I got the full toolkit and a quality battery.

jbell303 - Replica

Just finished this. Thank you very much for this detailed guide. I used isopropyl alcohol (IPA) against the glue and it worked really well with some patience and lots of tactical tilting. I would still go with the iFixit package if it was shipped to my country, because it’s probably a bit easier and because iFixit is awesome and cool.

While this certainly isn’t a repair for a beginner I wouldn’t say it’s so hard. It’s really only hard because of the glue removal and the careful prying of the various connectors. The rest is just loosening screws and keeping them in order.

Karl Birkir Flosason - Replica

Completed this tutorial step by step, I bought extra toolkit just to insure I had all tools - 150E for everything VS 210E from apple + 1 week or more without a computer. Took me about 40 minutes - 50 minutes to do everything, and it was fun. So totally worth it! Hope this battery lasts for a long time

Claude M - Replica

This guide is definitely missing information. If you aren’t extremely careful, you will get acetone into your keyboard and completely ruin it. There is no warning whatsoever that this can happen.

jeremybillheimer - Replica

This happened to me. The acetone somehow managed to get in contact with the underside of the keyboard and I ended up replacing my whole keyboard. What was initially an affordable way to change my battery ended up being expensive. Next time, I’ll just take it to Apple Genius.

Herman -

@Herman, yeah my feelings exactly. Supposedly Apple replaces the entire top case in the battery service, so I’m hoping it only costs $200. But that makes my $100 repair cost $300. Not worth it.

jeremybillheimer -

The keyboard is underneath the logic board, not the battery. I can see how this might happen if you aren’t careful about where you put the solvent and/or you use way too much, but I wouldn’t fault the guide for that.

Jeff Suovanen -

@Jeff, there is zero warning whatsoever that this can even happen, and its happened to a number of other customers. What is the point of the guide if it doesn’t warn you how to avoid the extremely expensive damage that can occur?

jeremybillheimer -

The debacle continues:

1. You can destroy your keyboard while doing this repair, and the guide does not adequately warn you of this possibility.

2. The keyboard is one of the most expensive and difficult components to replace on this model.

3. While iFixit advertises the replacement battery as OEM, Apple will not recognize it as such. If you then bring it to an Apple store to see if they will repair it, they will flat out refuse to repair your machine. Again, another negative outcome of this repair that it fails to warn about.

Considering the Apple replacement is $200, it is simply not worth the risk to your machine (and the future option to ever have it repaired by Apple again) to save $100. It is reckless, disingenuous, and actively harms the right to repair movement to fail to warn users of this kind of extreme risk.

jeremybillheimer -

There’s a warning in the introduction at the top of the guide to take care where you put the solvent. I know that’s zero consolation and it always sucks to have a repair go sideways on you; I’m just not sure what more can be done at this point. I’ve done a number of MBP batteries with this procedure and had no issues so far, following the procedure closely. If you haven’t already, you may want to reach out to the customer support folks to see about a refund on your kit, so you’re at least not out the cost of that.

Jeff Suovanen -

@Jeff, I’ve already reached out and indicated my frustration, and yeah, a refund is about the best I can hope for at this point to at least offset the additional repairs necessary. I was very careful with the solvent, but it is not at all obvious how it is even possible to get it into the keyboard (which you can’t even see without removing the logic board). I don’t think the guide is clear enough on how to avoid this particular damage, and judging by the comments here, a number of others have had similar problems. Keep in mind, the guide is for people who haven’t done this before and are probably only going to do it one time. They don’t have the specialized knowledge that comes from working on Macbooks frequently. It has to be as specific as possible to the point of hand holding and even warning that you are probably better off just paying the extra $100 to make sure it is done with no extra risk.

Additionally, the guide makes no mention that the replacement battery will result in your machine being banished from Apple’s repair depots. I think that is critical information that a potential buyer needs in order to make a fully informed purchase decision. You can’t claim a battery as OEM when that OEM will disavow it.

jeremybillheimer -

Hi Jeremy,

Sorry to hear of your situation. I have replied to the email you sent our Support team. Thank you for sharing your experience, and we hope this does not deter you from performing repairs in the future.

All the best,

Kadan Sharpe -

Bought the iFixit kit sold here, followed these instructions to the letter, everything went smooth. Used the acetone based solvent method, the only really fiddly bit was getting all the old adhesive dissolved and mopped out. Battery arrived with a 55% charge, now going to watch a movie on battery power to run it down…

impuse - Replica

Completed the swap out with no problems. Only tedious bit is chiseling off the old adhesive from the case after removing the battery. But if you soak it in solvent (per the instructions) and then lift up at the edge you can use your fingers and pull all the goo up in one satisfying motion.

Thanks to iFixit for not having to give even more to Apple Inc.

Tim Goodsall - Replica

Instructions were perfect. And thanks to barak as well for the ‘rice in a sock’ idea.

desturtz - Replica

Hey all, i followed the instruction and it worked pretty well for me. I just have noticed, once my macbook started again, that it doesnt find any documents, applications or any other file via spotlight function and via the search function in the finder anymore. i tried already to reset the spotlight search by adding and deleting HD to the privacy of the spolight search, but that didnt work for me. does anybody know how to solve this problem. I try to avoid to set up my mac via recovery disc.

thanks, pete

peter.anton - Replica

This worked for me!

Open Terminal

Show hidden files in finder with defaults write AppleShowAllFiles YES

Hold the 'Option/alt' key, then right click on the Finder icon in the dock and click Relaunch

Navigate in finder to the root volume (Macintosh HD)

Delete .metadata_never_index

Delete immediately in Trash

In Terminal: sudo mdutil -i on /

peter.anton -

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