Hi everyone, I own an Acer laptop AN515-57-51K6) and when I'm in games like Valorant, after a while my PC starts to slow down the sound makes a very weird noise and everything is at a lot of latency.

In other more recent games like Frag punk my computer suddenly shuts down. I bought it about two years ago.

When this happens, the GPU temperature and you're over 93°C, and the CPU shows 100% utilization.

I really need help as this is happening faster and faster.

Also, during this bug, I can't open Nitro Sense to adjust the fans because it puts me resources unavailable or something. And it's impossible to get back to normal. I have to restart my PC by force.

PS: i have RTX 3060, Intel Core i5 and 16Go ram

How to change mobile folder in this phone

Hi,

I was wondering if someone could give me some advice? I've never fixed anything electrical and would like to give it a shot.

My LG - 34UM95-P UltraWide monitor stopped working earlier this week. It won't power on, the white LED light near the joystick at the bottom of the screen is no longer turning on - neither is the monitor itself.

I've changed the fuse in the plug, but no joy.

I've had a look online and it's taken me down a bit of rabbit hole, I found one post that suggests the issue might be related to a EEPROM chip, perhaps it needs replacing or rebooting?

Wondering what tools would be useful to get to try and fix this monitor?

The monitor is in great condition for its age - purchased in 2014 - it's not been knocked about, I think something has just burned out (I have no idea).

It might be unrelated, but worth mentioning. I mainly used it with a MacBook Pro connected via Thunderbolt port. Never had any issues with this. In the last year or so a second PC laptop has occasionally been used with the monitor. Connecting via HDMI.

Sometimes the HDMI connection seemed a bit shaky, the monitor would make a white noise/static sound almost as if it was cutting out but only for a split second. Trying other HDMI ports on the monitor didn't seem to make a difference. Unplugging the HDMI lead and giving it a blow seemed to temporarily fix it. It was very random.

The monitor finally stopped working after the PC laptop performed a windows update.

The PC laptop wouldn't connect to the monitor and the image on the laptop was jumping all over the place. The monitor was blank, no power. Not sure if this is related?

Hope someone can offer some advice.

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UPDATE #1

I've managed to open the back of the monitor. Images attached.

UPDATE #2 - Saturday, May 28, 2022

Test power adapter
I've tested the power adapter, multimeter showed 19v. So at least I know that's working as expected.

Test connector
I was unable to get the red probe deep enough into the connector, so I put it on the metal coming out of the connector, see red circle below. The black probe on a screw on the board, see black circle in the image below.

The multimeter was set to resistance mode, and it beeped.

I also tried the multimeter on two other resistance settings. First on a setting of 200, the reading was 01.0 then I changed the setting to 2k, the reading was .001

Test connector with power cable

Set multimeter back to DC voltage mode, setting 20. Plugged power cable in and turned the power on. Black probe on the same screw as before, and red probe on L713 , gave me a solid reading of 19.20

After facing really bad temperatures in freezer (fridge compartment in line with expected temperature) of -2 to -8 degrees Celsius (vs -15 to -18 usually), I shorted the thermostat to check defrost heater voltage coming in.

I have a EU model so I expected to read 230VAC and instead I read 90VAC and the heater lamps weren't warm at all.

Resistance of each of the 2 lamps is 50 Ohms.

Thermostat is working.

Defrost temp sensor measured and was giving correct readings.

I suspect that the board is sending wrong voltage to the heater. I also had a weird symptom where suddenly the display showed -18 in freezer compartment when it was around zero degrees. As soon as I swapped the freezer compartment temp sensor, the reading came back to normal...

I just think of just applying 230VAC directly to the heater to see if I experience any improvement.

By the way, lower half of the evaporator coil has some extensive (but not too much) ice around it.

Any ideas more than welcome!

Al from Greece

I accidentally dropped my phone in a sink full of water. I took the phone out right away, took the back off, and put it in rice. I took it out a few times after that to check it and when I did it still turned on and worked. However, at one point when I took it out the screen flickered and turned black. I put the phone back in rice for 24 hours and took it out a day later. When I tried turning it on it turned on, but the screen is still black and I can't see anything. Is there anything I can do to do fix this?

Thermal Fuse

The thermal fuse helps to prevent a dryer fire by shutting off power to the dryer if it overheats. If the dryer won't start check this fuse first. Test the thermal fuse with an ohm meter or continuity checker. This is the most common part to fail when the dryer won't start. Once the thermal fuse has blown, it has to be replaced. It can not be reset.

Start Switch

The start switch is on the dryer control panel. Depending on the model, either press a button or turn a dial to start the dryer. If the start switch fails the dryer won't start or make any noise. Test the switch with an ohm meter or continuity checker. If the dryer hums when the start switch is activated, or if the motor runs only while activating the start switch, the motor might be defective or something might be binding the drum preventing it from turning freely. If the dryer start switch does not have continuity when it is activated, it will need to be replaced.

Door Switch

The door switch is located near the dryer door and is activated when the door is closed. If the door switch fails, the dryer won't start at all. Most door switches will make an audible click when they are activated. If the door switch makes a clicking sound when activated it is probably not defective. If it doesn't make a click, it can be checked with an ohm meter or continuity checker. The door switch is relatively easy to replace and is usually not very expensive.

iFixit staff suggestion: You can find additional help at this Dryer Won't Start page

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