Hi @jchap2506

Have you tried disabling fast startup and check if you can get into BIOS with a display, as you didn't mention doing this? Press the Del key to enter BIOS during POST i.e. after Startup but before Windows boots

Check if you have the latest motherboard drivers installed i.e. BIOS and chipset. The video drivers for BIOS are stored in BIOS so perhaps there is a problem there.

Here are links for b450 aorus elite motherboard Rev (1.x) and Ver.2 (1.x). They are different so if you decide to update make sure that you get the correct ones.

Also do one at a time and check before doing the second, perhaps the chipset drivers first.

Hi @westfieldmason ,

You may have to remove the passenger side door panel and check if there is power getting to the window regulator motor when you operate the switch and if there is perhaps the motor is faulty.

If there is no power at the motor when a switch is operated then you may have to track the wiring back.

For example, it could be a broken wire in the wiring harness that can be seen (although it is usually concealed in a rubber sleeve) as it passes between the body of the car and the door. Because of the constant opening and closing over time sometimes a wire can fracture here

Here’s a video that shows how to access the window regulator motor in your vehicle. I realize that your problem is the passenger side window and not the driver side but at least it gives an idea of what to expect.

Here’s the service repair manual for your vehicle.

The Doors link shows how to disassemble the doors and the Power Windows link details how to test the window regulators and also has the circuit diagrams for the window regulators.

Hopefully this may be of some help.

Here's what's up... The stereo "pairing" between say, two Flip 6s using "Partyboost", happens between the speakers (two channel stereo). In other words, music is sent to a speaker, and the firmware of that speaker determines which channel it plays and which channel is sent to its partner speaker (both channels are not the same).

Having both speakers paired up in Bluetooth settings sends the same data to each speaker, each of which attempts to do its part by playing one channel and sending the other to its partner speaker... And the result is a choppy, horrible sounding mish-mash of the two. The speakers were not designed to receive and process the same data... One is the pitcher, and the other is the catcher, so to speak. It doesn't matter which one is which as long as one speaker pitches and one speaker catches.

The solution is to "forget" one of the speakers in your Bluetooth settings, and allow the firmware of your speakers to perform the separation and playing of stereo channels, by using the specialized buttons on whatever speakers you're using to connect to each other. Those buttons are essentially telling one speaker it's the pitcher, and the other is the catcher. The app does the same thing.

Where JBL has dropped the ball is in the implementation of the firmware. It should prevent BOTH Bluetooth speakers from performing the same role but instead seems to encourage it, making it impossible for what would be otherwise impressive software to do what it was designed to do.

Hope this helps, because once you get through it, the sound quality and performance of these speakers in stereo is nothing short of amazing.

Hi,

Here’s a link that may be of some help.

Scroll down the page to view the pin out information for the 6 pin mini din.

Hopefully this is of some help.

This is an old question and the answer is just for completion sake.

Here you get the help and guides you need to repair it yourself. iFixit empowers you to repair your own and save your hard earned money. Use something like this video combined with this guide Amazon Kindle DX LCD Replacement to get to the LCD. Replacements are still available but are getting more and more expensive as the Kindle DX is no longer a very popular eReader. Places like this still sell them but may take a couple of weeks to get this delivered.

Hey there,

It's hard to tell if the storage is compatible simply because the device won't be available until a week from now, and we haven't seen many teardowns of the new one. However, it would surprise me if you couldn't swap out the SSD, given Valve's commitment to providing replacement parts and their previous collaboration with iFixit. Currently, the worst-case scenario is that you transfer the data from your 3rd party storage to the OLED's storage. Still, fingers crossed that the storage drives have similar specs and are compatible with one another.

This is an old question and the answer is just for completion sake.

This “. It appears the input connection in the Kindle is worn or otherwise won't make good connection with the charger connector” would indicate that the connector needs to be replaced. It is soldered to the motherboard. You will have to remove the mother board. Use something like this video to remove it. After that check the solder connection on the micro USB port. It is very likely that they have either come totally of the board, or that they have micro cracks. Next you will have to desolder your old connector and replace with a new connector which requires soldering again. . If you do not have the tools or the skills (yet) I suggest you find somebody online that has that experience. Soldering those connectors is a bit of a PITA. Ports are a bit hard to find so scour ebay.com, digikey.com or mouser.com and see if you can match it up.

William Vincent the port is soldered to the motherboard. You will have to remove the mother board. Use something like this video to remove it. After that check the solder connection on the micro USB port. It is very likely that they have either come totally of the board, or that they have micro cracks. Next desolder your old connector and replace with a new connector which requires soldering again. . If you do not have the tools or the skills (yet) I suggest you find somebody online that has that experience. Soldering those connectors are a bit of a PITA. Ports are a bit hard to find so scour ebay.com, digikey.com or mouser.com and see if you can find a good match.

This is an old question and the answer is just for completion sake.

Yes, you can (and by know I think you may already have done it too:-).Use something like this video combined with this guide Amazon Kindle DX LCD Replacement to get to the LCD. Replacements are still available but are getting more and more expensive as the Kindle DX is no longer a very popular eReader and demand for parts is decreasing.. Places like this still sell them but may take a couple of weeks to get this delivered.