jayeff

Hi @gbreed , Has it ever worked properly? Have you connected the 240V AC power feed correctly? (Do you need to have 2 x 120V AC where you are to achieve 240V AC?) It may be a faulty temperature sensor but this would have to be checked. Since you say that it is “new”, according to the warranty (scroll down and click on the Warranty link - right side of page) there is a 2 year warranty on the unit. I suggest that you contact the manufacturer’s customer service section about a warranty repair and don’t void the warranty by trying to fix it yourself. That’s what warranties are for ;-)

Hi @danfixesit , Don’t know the answer but here’s the fastrack troubleshooting guide for the washer. This details how to perform diagnostic tests for all the functions of the machine. It is interesting that you say that there are no error codes as an “unbalance error” LED code or LCD display is shown in the list of possible errors, even though there is no answer for solving it apart from rearranging the load. Maybe clearing the eeprom as described in the guide and then starting again may show up something. Hopefully this may help.

Hi, Online ram suppliers such as Crucial and Kingston don’t even list your model when searching their websites and I can’t find any specifications as to the type (SODIMM DDR2L or SODIMM DDR3L) and speed of the memory (ram) used in your model but if you have Win 10 installed then here’s a link that shows how to enter commands into the computer so that you can get all the information about the ram that is already installed. Since you already have 4GB ram installed it should then be just a matter of getting a 8GB module with the same type and speed specifications if there is only one ram slot or 2 x 4GB if there are two slots Hopefully this is of some help.

Hi, Here’s the owner manual for the laptop. Go to p.39 to view the necessary pre-requisite steps and then the procedure to remove/replace the camera. Replacement camera modules are available online. Just search for Dell 7YYTT to get results for suppliers that suit you

Hi, You may have to replace the entire connector assembly, as soldering the connector pin back will most probably not last if the unit is disassembled often Here’s a link that show various types of spring loaded connectors that may be adaptable to your situation. Here is perhaps one. Its datasheet shows that it has a 30V DC 3A/contact rating so the power specifications should also be considered when selecting if this is not sufficient. Look for both male and female so that they”mate” when joined. Here’s a 4 pin female connector just to let you see. (couldn’t find the 2 pin but it should be there). Just an idea.

Hi, You did the correct thing by removing the battery. Even when the laptop is off, there is always power available at various points on the motherboard. The power button is not a power isolating button. It merely signals the BIOS as to the user’s intentions. Think of the laptop as being in an extremely low power state rather than being totally disconnected from the power, when it is turned off. Check the ingredients on the label of the keyboard cleaner and see what it states. Depending on what type of “additives” are included in the mixture with the alcohol may decide what residues are left on/in the laptop. Hopefully it is purpose designed and that there are no conductive residues left when it dries out. Time will tell I suppose. If there are any problems after it has completely dried and you turn on the laptop, here’s the hardware maintenance manual for the laptop. On p.94 it details all the necessary pre-requisite steps and the procedure to remove the keyboard assembly. This should allow you to check...

Hi, Check if Number Lock has been disabled in BIOS. Start the laptop and press F2 before the laptop boots into Windows i.e. when the Dell logo is on the screen. When in BIOS use the arrow keys to navigate through the menus. Go to the Post Behavior menu > Numlock Enable and verify that it shows enabled. Here’s the service manual for the laptop. See p.64 for how to enter BIOS setup and p.70 for the Number lock entry.

Hi @akilogames, It may be a problem with the tcon board. This regulates the colours dependent on the signals being received from the mainboard or worst case it is in the panel driver tab boards that the tcon board connects to. The cabling is mainboard —-> tcon board —-> tab boards ——> panel. There’s not much you can do if it is in the tab boards because their connections are bonded to the panel itself and are very fragile so you risk creating more problems trying to fix them. Here’s a video that may help. It is not for your model as far as I know, but it shows in general terms the tcon board and the cabling etc Replacement tcon boards are available online. Just search for Samsung LN46A530P1FXZA tcon board. Make sure that the replacement board has the same board number, Rev. No etc (printed on the board itself) as the original or verify with the seller that it is compatible with your exact model. Also try to source from a supplier that has a good returns policy that may minimize the cost to you if it is not...

Hi, Given that the phone has been dropped I’m guessing that the problem is in the screen assembly. There are delicate internal connections in an assembly that may have been damaged and this may not be evident from the outside. As a DIY repair all you can do is to open the phone and first check that the display assembly flex cable is securely connected to the systemboard. If it is then after that you have to temporarily replace the screen assembly to find out whether the problem is in the assembly or the systemboard. Here’s the ifixit Samsung Galaxy S10 Plus Display Replacement guide which will help. Replacement screens are available online. Just search for Galaxy S10 Plus LCD Touch screen assembly to find suppliers that suit you. If doing this yourself seems too daunting, contact a reputable, professional mobile phone repair service and ask for a quote to repair the phone.

Hi, Here’s the user manual for the Netgear router. Go to the Wireless Repeating Section p.4-10

The 3rd wire from a battery is usually connected to a thermistor attached to the battery which signals the temperature (resistance value changes with temp) to the battery management circuit in the motherboard.

Charging will be halted to if it got too hot before being fully charged, which may create problems e.g. a fire

If leaving the 3rd wire disconnected, the battery should not be left unsupervised whilst it is charging

The 3rd wire is usually connected to a thermistor attached to the battery which gives the battery management circuitry in the motherboard an indication of the temperature of the battery when it is being charged. The temperature (actually a resistance measurement that alters with the temperature) is used in conjunction with the voltage level, so that the battery is not being overcharged and getting too hot and creating potential problems if left charging unattended for long periods. The charging process is halted

Hi @captainsnowball ,

FYI

voilà French exclamation - meaning “There it is!” or “There you are!”

The “red thing” in Step 3 is most probably an IR filter, to filter out visible light to improve IR operation

Hi, As yet I haven't figured out how to amend the link to the User Guide for this radio. The one in the Repair Guide no longer exists, so here is one that still works

https://midlandusa.com/wp-content/upload...