iPad Mini Wi-Fi LCD Replacement
Introduzione
Vai al passo 1Use this guide to open your iPad Mini Wi-Fi and replace the display.
-
-
Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
-
Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.
DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.
I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.
There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(
All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone
If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own
I agree with this.
I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.
30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.
60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.
I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.
K
I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.
Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you
Collins -
Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.
I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!
iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.
Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit
Bonjour,
Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.
Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.
Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.
I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.
Get a heat gun.
I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.
I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…
It appeared 30 seconds were not enough, so I heated it more, by 5 seconds at a time until I got the right temperature about 70 degrees Celsius (measured with infrared pistol) to get the screen heated up to 60 C, the best for softening the glue. But the heat was quickly dissipating by the big aluminum back cover, so the best I got in 2 minutes of applying iOpener was around 45 C, which made the procedure difficult and having risk of breaking the screen. So I eventually abandoned iOpener and user a hot air gun with precise temperature setup. I set it to 90 C, which allowed me to open my iPad quickly and safely.
I, too, ended up using a hot air gun. I’ve done earlier versions of iPad before but the adhesive used on this IPad 5 A1822 was particularly difficult to remove.
Also, while the suction cup worked great when the glass is in tact, any cracks in the glass make the suction cup useless.
You need to remember here are different sizes of microwaves. I had the same issue.
Heating on a smaller unit I used 45-60 seconds. That worked but was time comsuming
Yeah, the iOpener didn't work for me either.... ended up using a hair dryer and that worked. The iOpener was too warm to soften the glue in my case.
I tried 600W microwave for 30 sec and it was nicely warm, did nothing on iPad. Added 10 more sec, bit warmer, another 20 sec and it was finally a bit hot to hot in the hand - but still didn't do anything on iPad. I switched to a hair dryer as I used to work with it before, while being a bit sad about not using this brand new iOpener tool. And I found it short on 12.9 iPad anyway, maybe next time.
-
-
-
Fill a pot or pan with enough water to fully submerge an iOpener.
-
Heat the water to a boil. Turn off the heat.
-
Place an iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure the iOpener is fully submerged in the water.
-
Use tongs to extract the heated iOpener from the hot water.
-
Thoroughly dry the iOpener with a towel.
-
Your iOpener is ready for use! If you need to reheat the iOpener, heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and place the iOpener in the water for 2-3 minutes.
-
-
-
If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
-
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
-
Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
-
-
-
Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.
-
If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.
-
-
-
Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner.
-
Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad.
-
Antennas
-
Home button cavity
-
Digitizer cable
-
The following steps will direct you where to pry to avoid damage to these components. Only apply heat and pry where directed.
-
-
-
The front-facing camera housing may stick to the front panel; peel up the housing and place it back over the camera to protect it.
-
Rock the camera housing up on one edge to free it from the adhesive and remove it from the front panel.
-
Return the front-facing camera housing to its recess in the rear case.
-
-
Attrezzo utilizzato in questo passaggio:Tweezers$4.99
-
Use tweezers to peel up and remove the rectangular piece of foam tape covering the top right LCD screw.
-
Remove the triangular tape covering the lower right LCD screw.
-
-
-
Remove the following screws securing the LCD shield plate to the rear case of the iPad:
-
Two 2.6 mm Phillips #00
-
Thirteen 1.7 mm Phillips #00
-
One additional 1.7 mm Phillips #00 on some devices.
-
-
-
Remove the three 1.3 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the connector shield to the logic board.
-
-
-
Use a plastic opening tool to pry the LCD connector from its socket on the logic board.
-
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Annulla: non ho completato questa guida.
Altre 107 persone hanno completato questa guida.
Preparati per le riparazioni future
Acquista tutti
7Commenti sulla guida
You need to be really careful when lifting the LCD up. The adhesive is strong in places and I destroyed a couple of LCD's before perfecting it.
I'm all late to this comment, but to those replacing their ipad mini ' for the first time. Here's a tip:to remove the LCD use floss or sewing spring. Feed to one corner then to the other one, then just slide it to the top and back down then lift up.
Follow the directions and its not hard at all. Took about 90 minutes from start to finish. Make sure you read each direction at a time and don't skip any.
If you get your LCD from iFixit, be SURE you remove the plastic film that is on top of the LCD. I didn't and had to completely take my iPad afterward. Otherwise, just follow this guide and you'll be good to go!
I broke my LCD :(
Why my ipad mini screen jump up and down every 5 second?
