Introduzione
Use this guide to replace the dual microphone assembly in your iPad 5 Wi-Fi.
Be very careful when you isolate the battery using a battery blocker. The battery contacts are easily damaged, resulting in irreversible damage to the logic board. If you choose to complete the guide without isolating the battery, avoid using metal tools except when completely necessary (like when removing screws) to prevent shorting the battery and damaging sensitive circuit components.
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Fill a pot or pan with enough water to fully submerge an iOpener.
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Heat the water to a boil. Turn off the heat.
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Place an iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure the iOpener is fully submerged in the water.
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Use tongs to extract the heated iOpener from the hot water.
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Thoroughly dry the iOpener with a towel.
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Your iOpener is ready for use! If you need to reheat the iOpener, heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and place the iOpener in the water for 2-3 minutes.
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If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
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Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
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Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.
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If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out just a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.
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Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner.
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Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad.
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The following steps will direct you where to pry to avoid damage to these components. Only apply heat and pry where directed.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD out of its recess just enough to grab it with your fingers.
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Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the rear case.
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Lay the LCD on its face to allow access to the display cables.
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Remove the single 2.3 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.
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Slide the battery blocker underneath the battery connector area of the logic board, and leave it in place while you work.
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Remove any tape covering the home button ribbon cable connector.
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Remove the front panel assembly.
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If you experience "ghost" or "phantom" touch input issues with your new display, this can be resolved by adding a layer of very thin insulating tape, such as Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the highlighted areas on the back of the panel. iFixit panels come with the proper insulation, and should not require the addition of any tape.
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Remove the three 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the upper component cable bracket.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera connector from the logic board.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack connector from the logic board.
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Fold the headphone jack cable out of the way.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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I was already planning to change my screen when I saw the issue with the microphone was the same problem I had. Glad I only had to open the iPad once and did the microphone at the same time. The microphone replacement doesn’t have extra foam pieces for under the camera, so take your time removing the camera and try not to rip the foam too much. You can see a small C-shaped piece of foam attached to the microphone assembly on the step for removing the microphone. I warmed up my iOpener and placed the old microphone on it to soften the adhesive on it and transferred it to the new microphone.
