I spent an hour or so trying to re-install the antenna converter cable to the new Lightning connector, without success, though it snapped back onto the old part just fine. The new part's lack of ANY 'feel' of the coax aligning set off my alarm bells. I did not want to push straight down too hard and do damage. I removed the sponge pad on top of the coax connector so there's something a little more stable to push on, and using a .093" dia. punch to get a good vertical, square push - nope. Nothing to lose now, so I tried the suggestion to install the Lightning connector assembly first. Nope. The square end of the cable's flex sure looked centered over the coax on the new part, so I slowly increased pressure. Now the new part's coax looks worn and mangled, and never STARTED to seat. Sure looks to me like a diameter mismatch between Apple's OEM and this aftermarket part's coax. VERY DISAPPOINTED. My phone is toast without Lightning AND wifi! Should I risk buying another kit?

Part 6 (final): Exclusive of the adhesive removal, the whole disassembly/reassembly effort (first try on an iPad) took me about 3 hours. The adhesive removal took another 3 hours before hitting on the , but only about 1-1/2 hours after I developed the technique above.

Part 5: - Lift up the glass/digitizer to vertical (for the ENTIRE rest of this step) and using the tip of the spudger, carefully work the loop of the digitizer’s flex cable UNDER THE LED PLATE so that only 1/8”/ 3 mm) is hanging out of the gap, then remove the opener tool, drop the LED plate down onto its four contact points, and finish installing and tighten all four screws.

- Now, here’s the tricky part. You have to hold up the LED plate vertical with one hand, while you remove the blue peel-off protectors from the glass/digitizer with your other two hands. My failure while doing this was to unknowingly brush/touch my hand or arm across the digitizer surface, leaving a large smear that I didn’t see until the assembly was complete. Sigh.

- Keeping the glass/digitizer vertical, use canned air to blow off any dust particles from the LED and digitizer surfaces.

(more to come)

Part 4: - Then: Connect the LED plate first, lay it open like a book, then CAREFULLY slide the glass/digitizer under it from the bottom, so that its flex cable slides into position. In this and ALL following steps, take GREAT CARE to (a) not to touch the digitizer or LED surfaces with your fingers (or anything else contaminated) and (B) Not to let either surface’s edge stuff to scratch the other surface. I used an old, well (and freshly-) washed hand towel for protection. (Again, Painful lesson learned - do as I say, not as I did!)

- Gently lower the LED plate into place and LOOSELY install the two far screws, away from the pivot edge, and prop the sharp opener tool under the lower corner of the “hinge) of the LED plate, to raise it about 3/8”/ 8 mm above the rear housing’s edge.

Part 3: - (B) FINAL ASSEMBLY OF LED PLATE AND GLASS/DIGITIZER — You have to be VERY careful in the installation sequence of the front glass/digitizer and LED plate. Before this step, (a) install the Bezel (I used the spudger’s point to push it down and sideways into the outer lip, then the flat of the spudger to adhere the flat 1/8”/3 mm base of the bezel), then (b) install the adhesive strips to the perfectly clean back side edges of the glass/digitizer, leaving only the blue peel-off protectors in place. Note: On the strip around the front-facing camera, the thin center part goes INSIDE the cameras, not along the outside edge! Painful lesson learned - do as I say, not as I did!)

(more to come)

Part 2: Useless #3 - “Follow directions in reverse.” Nope - the vast majority of the 66 steps involve how to cut through the adhesive strips. You can’t reverse that. The (fairly few) reversible steps involve removing screws/brackets and disconnecting cables. Even there, here are two critical oversights on reassembly:

- (A) INSTALLING THE BATTERY: The new battery positioning is very sensitive. Use the plastic sheet you peeled off the glue strips under the battery, with maybe 1/2” of adhesive poking past it on the connector side. Set the battery connector on its post, then align the two similar opposite-side battery edges as close to perfectly parallel as possible to the housing before pushing down their connector-side edges, then align the third battery section to the first two and push down on the connector edge to lock in its orientation. Then slide the plastic out and smoothly push down on the rest of the adhesive strips, working form the connector edge to the housing edge.

(more to come)

Part 1: The 66 steps were well done, but they describe only about the first 1/3 of the effort. The “conclusion” states: “To reassemble your device, follow these directions in reverse and use our iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2560 Front Panel Adhesive strips guide to reattach the front panel.”

Useless #1 - “…use our iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2560 Front Panel Adhesive strips guide…” I tried (I have a 2560) but the guide was for an entirely different set of strips than the ones iFixit is selling in June 2019.

Useless #2 - There was no reference to ANY guide on how to remove adhesive. I searched hard. There was some stuff from users on the forum, but NO GUIDE on this CRITICAL aspect of iPad repair. Figured out a process myself (FIRST peel off the tape from the glass, then wet remaining adhesiveIPA saturated Q-tips, use sharp edged opening tool to scrape up the thick stuff while it’s still wet, and then use IPA-wetted 1” square cotton flannel rifle bore patches for the final cleanup).

(more to come)

Unfortunately, as of my order shipped on 5/30/2019, this guide is obsolete. The new strips are in clear semi-rigid carrier, with transparent blue backing, The new adhesive strips:

There are now only four strips of adhesive, die cut to different shapes which are completely unlike those shown in this guide - two long, unwieldy strips that run the full length of each side and wrap partway onto the top & bottom, a third strip that wraps around the front-facing camera at the top (with no applicable instructions I put it on backward so it doesn’t fit the side strips), and a fourth little bitty strip  with a half-arrowhead, about 5/8”/17mm long, that doesn’t come close to filling the 1-1/2”/4 cm gap between the home button and the right-side strip, but I stuck it on anyway,

As a result, these instructions are no longer relevant. Sorry Sam’s great effort is no longer useful.