Connector 2 is as challenging to remove as others have stated, but reinstalling it is the riskiest part of reassembly. The pins on the circuit board are extremely fragile. If the connector isn't perfectly aligned with the pins when you attempt to reconnect, you'll bend the pins. If you do this, straightening them is virtually impossible without breaking them. I broke one and had to solder the cable wires directly onto the circuit board.

These connectors are incredibly finicky to reinstall. Precise alignment is critical. You can sort of get a sense of when the connectors are properly aligned by trying to slide them side to side with your finger, but mostly it's a case of trial and error. Don't apply excessive force because you risk damaging the edges of the connectors. When properly aligned they don't exactly click, but you do feel them go in.

Dry fit everything before sticking the front panel on. Make sure the iPad powers on , the home buttons works, WiFi works, the front panel responds to touch. Then power it off before carefully reassembling it.

As @Kristof notes, if the display doesn’t power on, don’t panic. Do a hard reset. Note that the display isn’t broken, the backlight just isn’t on. If you shine a bright light on the display and click the iPad’s power button, you’ll see a home screen, albeit very faintly.

Be careful when reinstalling the bezel. When you attach the new bezel to the case, proper alignment is critical. If the bezel is not placed accurately, the glass front panel won’t fit inside it. Applying pressure to “make it fit” will break the front panel. Also, the bezels don’t seem to fit the front panel (they’re too small). Dry fit the bezel on the front panel first to check the fit. After breaking a front panel and another bezel that didn’t fit I ended up sticking the bezel to the front panel first and then sticking the combo bezel and front panel to the iPad case.

When reinstalling the front panel check the home button’s ribbon cable doesn’t get trapped. If it gets folded back on itself, the cable will break and you’ll have a reassembled iPad with a non-functioning home button.

Another lesson learned while removing the WiFi antenna. The photo shows the iPad laying face up on the table, but to see what you’re doing when detaching the antenna you ‘re better off with the iPad edge up so you can see how the antenna is attached. The antenna is very, very easily broken. To be honest, it’s a lot easier to replace a broken antenna than to try to pry it loose.

If your home button doesn’t work after transferring to the new screen you might have a faulty screen. I spent a lot of time chasing all the suggestions here, but eventually resolved the issue by installing a replacement screen.

Some people have noted that the screen doesn’t seat properly on the case. Here’s how I solved it:

The issue is that rectangular brackets on the back of the display aren’t latching with the corresponding clips in the base. I think the brackets are missing the gap between the spring plate and bracket with the latching bumps on it on the base. Here’s my solution:

Position the top of the display slightly below the top of the case so the clips on the back top of the display start to engage with the phone case. Important: don’t push it all the way up!

Now press both sides of the top part of the display until the display seats on the back. Make sure both sides are flush with the case.

Repeat for the middle of the display. The bottom of the display will remain bent up because it will interfere with the bottom edge of the case.

Now push/slide the display up so the top of the display lines up with the top of the case. The bottom should then snap into the base, and the display should be flush with the case all round.