Use this guide to replace your iPad's LCD.

  1. If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
    • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.

      • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

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  2. Insert a metal spudger between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly.
    • Insert a metal spudger between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly.

    • Rotate the spudger away from you to release the tabs along the top edge of the display.

    • Insert a second metal spudger between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly to keep the tabs from snapping back into place.

    Tip* "ONLY WITH METAL SPUDGER* heat it with a lighter till its warm to touch, then slide it like a butter knife. it reduces chances of chipping glass.

    luckie - Replica

    I've found that by using a thicker iPad tool dents the back less(not at all if your careful) and start prying just under the volume button and working my way down works better as the metal clips are on all sider except the right side.

    richard - Replica

    It would be really helpful to point out where all the clips and tabs are, and to show a picture of them (unbroken), so you know what you're trying to release.

    Styg - Replica

    • With one spudger, work your way along the right edge of the iPad.

    • The front panel is held to the aluminum back by metal clips on the top, bottom, and left sides. The right side has plastic tabs which slide into recesses in the backplate.

    • Once the clips are released, lift the left side of the front panel up and slide it to the left to clear the tabs from the aluminum backplate.

    Its seems easier to undo the clips on the left and bottom by levering them with an iPad tool and pusing the clips in from the edge with another tool when i can visually see them. One the right side, bottom and most of the left side is done there isnt much need to do the top as it will slide off if moved about a centimeter

    richard - Replica

    • Lift the display assembly away from the rear panel assembly by its bottom edge.

    • Do not attempt to remove the display at this time, as it is attached to the rear panel assembly.

    By it's BOTTOM edge.

    jonathan - Replica

    • In the following steps, you will disconnect the three cables attaching the display assembly to the logic board. The cables are for the following components:

      • Digitizer

      • Ambient Light Sensor

      • Display Data Cable

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    • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to flip up the retaining flaps holding the digitizer ribbon cables in their sockets on the logic board.

    • Be sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the digitizer ribbon cables straight out of their sockets.

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  3. Diffondi allegria Fixmas
    Ottieni $12 sul tuo acquisto di $50 o più con il codice FIXMAS12
    Diffondi allegria Fixmas
    Ottieni $12 sul tuo acquisto di $50 o più con il codice FIXMAS12
    • Use a plastic opening tool to remove the ambient light sensor connector from its socket by gently prying upward.

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    • Disconnect the display data cable from the main board by flipping up the metal retainer by its black plastic pull tab.

    • Pull the cable connector away from its socket.

    • Pull the connector parallel to the face of the logic board.

    IMHO, unhooking data display cable from the other end is preferable to the above location, since the cable itself is sealed or taped onto the assembly.

    Roger Buttermore - Replica

    • Remove the display assembly from the rear panel assembly.

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    • If you are reusing the LCD, it is not necessary to peel the ambient light sensor off the back face of the LCD.

    • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to carefully pry the ambient light sensor board off the adhesive securing it to the display frame.

    • Once you've gained enough clearance, peel the ambient light sensor off the LCD.

    • Be careful not to crease the ambient light sensor below its top section, as the portion with adhesive applied may break off.

    • If necessary, attach the plastic view window to your new ambient light sensor before installation.

    You can leave the sensor stuck to the LCD if you're reusing the LCD. It just stays attached to the LCD no problem.

    jonathan - Replica

    Step 7 after flipping up the metal retainer, pull it sideways.

    Do not pull it up vertically.

    Joe in PA - Replica

    • While holding the digitizer cable down, carefully peel back the piece of tape connecting the digitizer cable to the display frame.

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    • Remove the three T5 Torx screws securing the clips and LCD brackets covered in EMI tape near the home button switch.

    • Carefully peel the display clip and its attached tape off the black plastic display frame.

    • If you are replacing the LCD, be sure to transfer these pieces of EMI tape and their attached clips to the new LCD.

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    • Remove the remaining T5 Torx screws securing the LCD to the black plastic display frame.

    I see that the author broke 4 tabs on the top and 2 tabs on the bottom -- the exact same ones that I broke. I must be following his instructions perfectly!

    Styg - Replica

    • Insert the edge of a plastic opening tool under one of the ears attached to the steel LCD frame.

    • Twist the plastic opening tool to gently pry the LCD up off the adhesive securing it to the front glass panel.

    • Be sure not to excessively bend the LCD, as it is made of glass.

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    • Repeat the process detailed on the previous step to pry up the display around the three sides opposite the digitizer cable side of the display.

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    • Lift the LCD from its free end, and remove it from the display frame.

    • Carefully peel the adhesive securing the long side of the LCD to the display frame, then remove the LCD.

    remove the home button spring assembly from the old digitizer and transfer it to the new one!!!!!!!!!

    wh1513 - Replica

    • If it is still stuck to the front panel, remove the strip of EMI tape near the ambient light sensor socket.

    • If necessary, transfer this to your new LCD.

    • If it is attached to the LCD and you are reusing the LCD, skip this step. If you are replacing the LCD as well, transfer the strip of EMI tape to your new LCD.

    Jeez!! Please put to keep the emi tape if you are resusing your lcd BEFORE the step that says to remove it...I don't know how import this stuff is, but I'm guessing pretty important cause I just removed it.

    Noah - Replica

    • If they are still in good shape, transfer the clips and EMI tape near the bottom of the LCD to your new LCD.

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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Altre 72 persone hanno completato questa guida.

So what if ive snapped off one of the retaining flaps? Ive seen in the past when ive snapped them off before i could just plug it in, slap on some kapton tape and it was fine. This time i cant get the bottom of the digitizer to work on new glass. I put on the old glass and the bottom works just fine. the bottom flap is the one that broke, but why would the old glass work just fine, but the new glass does nothing on the bottom half?

Blib - Replica

Just replaced my lcd using this guide. Not easy, but doable. Took about an hour and a half. broke about half of the clips that hold the assembly in, but moved the remaining ones around so that it is secure. I recommend buying replacement clips if you aren't comfortable with that. Also, this guide says to use a Torx T5 screwdriver. Other sites say T4. It is most definitely T5. I bought the wrong one first and had to get a new one. Home Depot has an 8 in 1 Torx tool for 6 bucks that is great. Thank you iFixit for saving me hundreds that I would have spent on a new iPad!

dcook88 - Replica

Don't worry about buying more replacment clips -- if you still have them on the left edge, not having the clips on the top and bottom isn't noticeable.

Styg -

When reassembling at the last step (inserting the screen assembly into the back cover), do NOT simply do the reverse of what you did to take it out. Instead, insert the right edge first (with the plastic tabs). The metal tabs on the left edge (and top and bottom edges if you have any left) are flexible, so it is very easy to snap the left edge of the screen into the back cover AFTER the right edge is in place. If you put the left edge in first, you'll have a much tougher time trying to get the plastic tabs on the right edge into back cover.

Styg - Replica

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