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Introduzione

Usa questa guida per sostituire il pannello frontale su un iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi. Il pannello frontale o gruppo display è formato da digitalizzatore in vetro sopra e LCD fuso sotto. Nell'iPad Air 2 questi due componenti non sono separabili e vanno sostituiti insieme.

Nota che il sensore Touch ID originale è accoppiato in fabbrica alla scheda logica del tuo iPad; quindi la sostituzione del sensore con uno nuovo farà perdere la funzionalità del sensore di impronte digitali.

Questa procedura può essere utilizzata per riparare un vetro crepato, un touchscreen non funzionante o un LCD rotto.

Attenzione: il metodo di isolamento della batteria in questa guida è da aggiornare, e può causare dei danni irreparabili ai contatti della batteria sulla scheda madre, distruggendoli. Se decidi di isolare la batteria in questo modo, leggi tutte le avvertenze e lavora con estrema attenzione. Se decidi di completare la guida senza isolare la batteria, evita di usare strumenti in metallo tranne che quando strettamente necessario (come per svitare le viti) per evitare di far fare corto circuito alla batteria e danneggiare dei componenti delicati.

  1. Ti raccomandiamo di pulire il tuo forno a microonde prima dell'operazione, perché ignobili entità unte e appiccicose potrebbero attaccarsi all'iOpener. Disponi l'iOpener al centro del tuo forno a microonde.
    • Ti raccomandiamo di pulire il tuo forno a microonde prima dell'operazione, perché ignobili entità unte e appiccicose potrebbero attaccarsi all'iOpener.

    • Disponi l'iOpener al centro del tuo forno a microonde.

    • Per forni a microonde con piatto rotante: assicurati che il piatto giri liberamente. Se l'iOpener si incastrasse da qualche parte, potrebbe surriscaldarsi e bruciare.

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - Replica

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Replica

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Replica

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Replica

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Replica

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Replica

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - Replica

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - Replica

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - Replica

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - Replica

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - Replica

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - Replica

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Replica

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - Replica

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - Replica

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 - Replica

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis - Replica

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R - Replica

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam - Replica

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt - Replica

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug - Replica

    I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

    The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

    Richard O'Brien - Replica

    #### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

    Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

    T z - Replica

    I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

    Mizzoo, s.r.o. - Replica

  2. Riscalda l'iOpener per 30 secondi.
    • Riscalda l'iOpener per 30 secondi.

    • Se durante la riparazione l'iOpener si raffredda, scaldalo di nuovo nel microonde per 30 secondi.

    • Fai attenzione a non surriscaldare l'iOpener durante l'operazione. Il surriscaldamento può far bruciare l'iOpener.

    • Non toccare mai l'iOpener se appare gonfio.

    • Se l'iOpener è ancora troppo caldo in mezzo per poterlo toccare, continua a utilizzarlo mentre attendi che si raffreddi un po' prima di scaldarlo di nuovo. Un iOpener riscaldato correttamente dovrebbe rimanere caldo fino a 10 minuti.

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Replica

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Replica

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Replica

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Replica

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Replica

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Replica

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Replica

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - Replica

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - Replica

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - Replica

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - Replica

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - Replica

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - Replica

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Rapp -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Replica

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    Get a heat gun.

    alesha adamson - Replica

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis - Replica

  3. Rimuovi l'iOpener dal forno a microonde, afferrandolo per una delle due estremità piatte per evitare il contatto con la parte centrale calda.
    • Rimuovi l'iOpener dal forno a microonde, afferrandolo per una delle due estremità piatte per evitare il contatto con la parte centrale calda.

    • L'iOpener sarà davvero caldissimo, perciò fai attenzione quando lo maneggi. Usa una presina da forno, se necessario.

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Replica

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - Replica

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - Replica

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - Replica

  4. Se il vetro dello schermo è crepato, previeni ulteriori rotture e danni fisici durante la riparazione coprendo lo schermo con del nastro adesivo trasparente. Sovrapponi strisce di nastro adesivo trasparente per coprire tutta la superficie dello schermo dell´iPad. Ciò impedirà ad eventuali schegge di vetro di staccarsi e causare ulteriori danni strutturali mentre si fa leva e si solleva il display.
    • Se il vetro dello schermo è crepato, previeni ulteriori rotture e danni fisici durante la riparazione coprendo lo schermo con del nastro adesivo trasparente.

    • Sovrapponi strisce di nastro adesivo trasparente per coprire tutta la superficie dello schermo dell´iPad.

    • Ciò impedirà ad eventuali schegge di vetro di staccarsi e causare ulteriori danni strutturali mentre si fa leva e si solleva il display.

    • Fai del tuo meglio per seguire il resto della guida, come descritta. In ogni caso, uno schermo crepato continuerà probabilmente a danneggiarsi durante la riparazione e, perciò potrebbe essere necessario utilizzare uno strumento metallico per estrarre il vetro.

    • Indossa occhiali protettivi per riparare gli occhi da eventuali schegge di vetro e fai attenzione a non danneggiare lo schermo LCD.

    Why does it says in red letter to be sure not to damage the LCD screen? I thought the whole point of this guide is to replace a broken screen and the new screen comes with a new LCD since apparently they cannot be separated

    Stranger Danger - Replica

    Because some people are opening the ipad to replace the battery! Like me~

    stephenwithph - Replica

    The picture is a picture of an ipad 4 lol

    iCare Electronic Repair - Replica

    The opening procedure is the same on many iPad models, so some photos are reused for all models.

    Daniele Carminati -

  5. I passi successivi prevedono l'uso di un iOpener per ammorbidire l´adesivo che blocca il pannello frontale. Quando si vuole usare l'iOpener, assicurati di non scaldarlo nel microonde per più di 30 secondi.
    • I passi successivi prevedono l'uso di un iOpener per ammorbidire l´adesivo che blocca il pannello frontale. Quando si vuole usare l'iOpener, assicurati di non scaldarlo nel microonde per più di 30 secondi.

    • Tenendolo per le due linguette alle estremità, appoggia un iOpener riscaldato sul bordo superiore dell'iPad.

    • Lascia l'iOpener sull'iPad per due minuti per far ammorbidire il materiale adesivo che assicura il pannello frontale al resto dell'iPad.

    Yeah, this part took longer than written. Over 30 minutes and had to reheat the iOpenner since it got cool enough to only feel warm.

    Christopher Lowder - Replica

    So true, the adhesive is really strong.

    Benjamin Black -

    I would recommend using a hair dryer on high instead. Heat a certain area 60 seconds at a time and keep the hair dyer moving at a slow but constant speed.

    Alexander Chrisman - Replica

    Hi!

    Is the quality of the iOpener so different, that for some people this guide works. but for most people including me, this 30 sec do not hotten the iOpener enough..

    Couldn't anybody do a new guideline with proper info, how many sec on which watt, etc. Pretty please!

    BUT, with that said, I would like thank You people on ifixit.com, for make all this tools. I f. love it! But plz make a new guide for at least iPad Air 2, screen replacement!

    Big love from Sweden and me Magni =) <3

    Magnifika Mole - Replica

    Hello Magni!

    Microwave power can be vary, so you may need to microwave your iOpener longer in order to get it hot enough. The iOpener should be hot to the touch, about 80-100°C.

    Arthur Shi -

    Why do these instructions say to heat the top of the iPad for 2 minutes, but then prior open the bottom? The instruction below seem to indicate heating the side that you are about to pry open.

    mpulliam - Replica

  6. Mentre dall´esterno l´iPad appare come una struttura uniforme, al di sotto di alcune porzioni del pannello frontale ci sono diverse componenti molto delicate. Per prevenire qualsiasi danno, scaldare e fare leva solamente sulle aree descritte in ciascun passo di questa guida. Mentre segui le istruzioni, porta particolare attenzione ad evitare di fare leva sulle seguenti aree: Pulsante Home
    • Mentre dall´esterno l´iPad appare come una struttura uniforme, al di sotto di alcune porzioni del pannello frontale ci sono diverse componenti molto delicate. Per prevenire qualsiasi danno, scaldare e fare leva solamente sulle aree descritte in ciascun passo di questa guida.

    • Mentre segui le istruzioni, porta particolare attenzione ad evitare di fare leva sulle seguenti aree:

    • Pulsante Home

    • Fotocamera frontale

    • Fotocamera principale

    you should be careful with the screen connector on the bottom right when opening

    Elyazee Eble Altenawe - Replica

  7. Posiziona una ventosa sopra la fotocamera frontale e premi per creare il vuoto. Per avere una maggior trazione, posiziona la ventosa più vicino possibile al bordo del dispositivo, senza andare oltre.
    • Posiziona una ventosa sopra la fotocamera frontale e premi per creare il vuoto.

    • Per avere una maggior trazione, posiziona la ventosa più vicino possibile al bordo del dispositivo, senza andare oltre.

    This is the trickiest and scariest part of the procedure. (read all of the comments in Steps 1 and 2 and at the end of the guide). The iOpener also did not work for me - it simply would not soften the glue enough. I used a blowdryer. Have lots of patience and be gentle! I did not pull up on the suction cup very much. I softened the glue enough that I could get my fingernail under the glass, then I was able to wedge the pick in beside it. The rest of the screen removal went easy with the blowdryer and blue picks.

    Nancy Hansen - Replica

    It helps to know that the adhesive is v narrow (2-3 mm) tapes, not great globs of bitumen. Once the seal is broken, you’ve won. Also, the shiny bezel is part of the metal body, not the screen, so get your widget between the glass and the bezel. And be patient. Even with a heat gun and IR thermometer it still took me 30 mins to get the screen off.

    Richard O'Brien - Replica

    The screen glass can only be pulled up a fraction of a millimetre, just enough to insert the mere tip of an opening pick.

    The glue then gives way very slowly. Give it time to release before moving the pick slowly further in. If you pull the pick out without wedging the gap open with another pick the glue will re bind and you are back where you started.

    I used a very cheap Aldi laser thermometer to check temperatures. The glue seems to loosen at 41C+, although the heat takes time to penetrate.

    David Kennedy - Replica

  8. Tira con fermezza la ventosa per creare una piccola fessura tra il pannello frontale e il case posteriore. Non tirare troppo forte per evitare di rompere il vetro. Una volta creata un'apertura sufficiente, inserisci un plettro di apertura per evitare che l'adesivo possa riattaccarsi.
    • Tira con fermezza la ventosa per creare una piccola fessura tra il pannello frontale e il case posteriore.

    • Non tirare troppo forte per evitare di rompere il vetro.

    • Una volta creata un'apertura sufficiente, inserisci un plettro di apertura per evitare che l'adesivo possa riattaccarsi.

    Even using a heat gun in an effort to soften the remarkably tenacious adhesive, I found it impossible to use the suction cup to lift the edge of the screen sufficiently high to insert a pick. I ended up using an exacto knife and a single-edge razor blade to make the initial opening, after which I was able to insert and use picks per the instructions.

    James Steffy - Replica

  9. Fai scorrere il plettro lungo il bordo del display, verso l'uscita del jack cuffie. Se incontri ancora molta resistenza allo scorrimento del plettro di apertura, ripeti la procedura di riscaldamento con l'iOpener e applica altro calore. Stai attento non lasciare che il plettro di apertura scorra tra LCD e pannello frontale per evitare di danneggiare permanentemente il display.
    • Fai scorrere il plettro lungo il bordo del display, verso l'uscita del jack cuffie.

    • Se incontri ancora molta resistenza allo scorrimento del plettro di apertura, ripeti la procedura di riscaldamento con l'iOpener e applica altro calore.

    • Stai attento non lasciare che il plettro di apertura scorra tra LCD e pannello frontale per evitare di danneggiare permanentemente il display.

    • Una buona regola è quella di non inserire ma il plettro di apertura per più di 6 mm nell'iPad.

    I think I accidently slid my tool into the fused lcd and front panel and now the entire screen is doing weird lines and different colors and just is not natural its not even usable. I was gonna replace the battery because the batter was popping the entire front panel and lcd off of the base of the device and then when i was openingit up the rest of the way I slipped and it hit something and now its all glitchy. what should i do?? is it even worth fixing anymore? it;s too old for apple care and I already voided the warranty and displays are expensive what should I do? email me @ andrew.heidorn1@gmail.com thanks :)

    Andrew Heidorn - Replica

    “a quarter of an inch” might be OK for the US/UK… what about pretty much the rest of the world using the metric system? When giving measurements, please always include them also in mm/cm

    Denis Hay - Replica

    A quick google search will give you the answer

    Stranger Danger -

    Metric is for engineers. Last place on earth to use inches is US car industry. NASA uses metric. You know it makes sense.

    Peter Goodall - Replica

    I shattered the glass on my iPad during this step.

    To melt the adhesive, you have to heat the glass A LOT, to at least 80°C. I was using a portable infrared thermometer while doing this. Heating the iOpener in my microwave for 60 seconds only raised its temperature to about 90°C, and leaving it on the glass for a few minutes didn’t raise the temperature of the glass to more than about 40°C. I switched to a hair dryer and heated the glass to about 70°C, which was barely enough to be able to insert one pick. As soon as I tried to slide it across, the glass broke.

    I recommend having a reliable way to measure the temperature, and finding something that can heat more effectively than the iOpener. Also take caution to heat all along the top, not just the point where you’re inserting the pick. In theory the iOpener is designed for this, but it doesn’t get hot enough.

    I wish the iOpener came with a specific heat rating. It has many warnings against overheating it but it’s not clear exactly how much is too much.

    Daniel Corks - Replica

    6mm is far too much at the side. There is only 4mm from edge of glass to the display unit . I guess I damages my display because the pledge had gone between glass and display.

    tobiasscholand - Replica

    The picks should have a 5mm indent on them so you can’t push them in to far, at least on one of the tips

    mpulliam - Replica

  10. Inserisci un secondo plettro dalla fotocamera frontale. Inserisci un secondo plettro dalla fotocamera frontale.
    • Inserisci un secondo plettro dalla fotocamera frontale.

  11. Fai scorrere il secondo plettro lungo il bordo superiore dell'iPad, verso il pulsante Sleep/Wake. Fai scorrere il secondo plettro lungo il bordo superiore dell'iPad, verso il pulsante Sleep/Wake. Fai scorrere il secondo plettro lungo il bordo superiore dell'iPad, verso il pulsante Sleep/Wake.
    • Fai scorrere il secondo plettro lungo il bordo superiore dell'iPad, verso il pulsante Sleep/Wake.

  12. Inserisci un terzo plettro in direzione della fotocamera frontale. Inserisci un terzo plettro in direzione della fotocamera frontale.
    • Inserisci un terzo plettro in direzione della fotocamera frontale.

  13. Trascina il plettro di destra in basso e attorno all'angolo superiore destro dell'iPad. Trascina il plettro di destra in basso e attorno all'angolo superiore destro dell'iPad. Trascina il plettro di destra in basso e attorno all'angolo superiore destro dell'iPad.
    • Trascina il plettro di destra in basso e attorno all'angolo superiore destro dell'iPad.

  14. Trascina il plettro di sinistra attorno all'angolo superiore destro del tablet. Trascina il plettro di sinistra attorno all'angolo superiore destro del tablet. Trascina il plettro di sinistra attorno all'angolo superiore destro del tablet.
    • Trascina il plettro di sinistra attorno all'angolo superiore destro del tablet.

  15. Riscalda nuovamente l'iOpener e posizionalo sul bordo destro del display per allentare l'adesivo sottostante.
    • Riscalda nuovamente l'iOpener e posizionalo sul bordo destro del display per allentare l'adesivo sottostante.

  16. Fai scorrere il plettro di destra fino a metà circa del bordo destro dello schermo. Fai scorrere il plettro di destra fino a metà circa del bordo destro dello schermo. Fai scorrere il plettro di destra fino a metà circa del bordo destro dello schermo.
    • Fai scorrere il plettro di destra fino a metà circa del bordo destro dello schermo.

    take care not to insert more than 4mm!

    tobiasscholand - Replica

  17. Riscalda nuovamente l'iOpener e posizionalo sul bordo sinistro dell'iPad.
    • Riscalda nuovamente l'iOpener e posizionalo sul bordo sinistro dell'iPad.

  18. Fai scorrere il plettro di sinistra fino a metà circa del bordo sinistro dello schermo. Fai scorrere il plettro di sinistra fino a metà circa del bordo sinistro dello schermo. Fai scorrere il plettro di sinistra fino a metà circa del bordo sinistro dello schermo.
    • Fai scorrere il plettro di sinistra fino a metà circa del bordo sinistro dello schermo.

  19. Fai scorrere verso il basso il plettro sul lato opposto fino all'angolo inferiore destro dell'iPad. Se necessario, riscalda nuovamente l'adesivo sotto il bordo destro per ammorbidirlo. Se necessario, riscalda nuovamente l'adesivo sotto il bordo destro per ammorbidirlo.
    • Fai scorrere verso il basso il plettro sul lato opposto fino all'angolo inferiore destro dell'iPad.

    • Se necessario, riscalda nuovamente l'adesivo sotto il bordo destro per ammorbidirlo.

    This is it. This was the step where I cracked the screen and ruined the device. Things had been going so well up to this point. Like many others I struggled with the iOpener, so I used a heat gun along with a temperature sensor and very carefully and slowly went back and forth along the edges keeping the temperature at exactly 200 degrees F. I got the pick in, went around the top corners, down the sides to the middle. But on this step where you finish sliding the pick to the bottom right corner, I got 3/4ths of the way down and CRACK. The glass shattered pretty badly in the corner, and there’s a crack running diagonally along the entire device. I put clear packing tape on top to keep it from cracking further, but sections of the screen are non-responsive. I can’t tell you how upset my 5 year old is going to be when he wakes up tomorrow and I have to tell him daddy wrecked his iPad. :( I believe strongly in the Right to Repair and this kit is fine. But GO SLOWLY, and BE CAREFUL.

    George Mann - Replica

  20. Fai scorrere anche il plettro sinistro lungo il bordo corrispondente fino a raggiungere l'angolo del dispositivo. Fai scorrere anche il plettro sinistro lungo il bordo corrispondente fino a raggiungere l'angolo del dispositivo. Fai scorrere anche il plettro sinistro lungo il bordo corrispondente fino a raggiungere l'angolo del dispositivo.
    • Fai scorrere anche il plettro sinistro lungo il bordo corrispondente fino a raggiungere l'angolo del dispositivo.

    I made it one step farther than the person above me. Made it about 1 inch from the bottom left corner and the screen shattered. I probably let it cool too much as I think I was getting a little impatient by now. The kit is great though. I successfully removed the rest of the screen even after it broke with no damage to anything else. I continued on to replace the battery and bought a new LCD (This was a roughly $130 mistake). I stress, go slowly, heat often. Kit worked great otherwise.

    Joseph Eichinger - Replica

  21. Usa l'iOpener per applicare calore al bordo inferiore dell'iPad.
    • Usa l'iOpener per applicare calore al bordo inferiore dell'iPad.

  22. Fai scorrere il plettro di destra lungo l'angolo inferiore dell'iPad. Fai scorrere il plettro di destra lungo l'angolo inferiore dell'iPad. Fai scorrere il plettro di destra lungo l'angolo inferiore dell'iPad.
    • Fai scorrere il plettro di destra lungo l'angolo inferiore dell'iPad.

  23. Fai lo stesso con il plettro sinistro. Se necessario, riscalda di nuovo e riapplica l'iOpener. Aspetta sempre almeno 10 minuti prima di riscaldarlo nuovamente. Se necessario, riscalda di nuovo e riapplica l'iOpener. Aspetta sempre almeno 10 minuti prima di riscaldarlo nuovamente.
    • Fai lo stesso con il plettro sinistro.

    • Se necessario, riscalda di nuovo e riapplica l'iOpener. Aspetta sempre almeno 10 minuti prima di riscaldarlo nuovamente.

  24. Rimuovi il plettro destro dal bordo inferiore dell'iPad. Rimuovi il plettro destro dal bordo inferiore dell'iPad.
    • Rimuovi il plettro destro dal bordo inferiore dell'iPad.

    F…ing cracked the glass. This repair is a waste of time and money. The iOpener is b.s. You need to use a heat gun and/or a blow dryer. I had used the heat gun and a blow dryer to successfully separated the glass from the body until I reached the bottom. This is becuase I had left the heated iOpener on the bottom for at least 20 minutes. I used the blow dryer for the top and sides and it worked. When I turned the corner on the bottom, the glass shattered. The tip of pick was not in very far, maybe 2mm. Guess my only option now is a new iPad.

    mpulliam - Replica

    same here, and I’m not using their $2 dinky microwave palm rest, I have a head gun and I’ve been heating this thing for 20 mintues side by side. Still cracked the class. Don’t attempt this, to do this successfully you should’ve had cracked 10 screens.

    Hussam Almuayad - Replica

  25. Fai scorrere il plettro sinistro lungo il bordo inferiore del display fino ad arrivare all'angolo inferiore destro, dopodiché rimuovilo. Presta molta attenzione a non inserire il plettro oltre 6 mm all'interno del display per non danneggiare il pulsante Home e i cavi del display sottostanti. Presta molta attenzione a non inserire il plettro oltre 6 mm all'interno del display per non danneggiare il pulsante Home e i cavi del display sottostanti.
    • Fai scorrere il plettro sinistro lungo il bordo inferiore del display fino ad arrivare all'angolo inferiore destro, dopodiché rimuovilo.

    • Presta molta attenzione a non inserire il plettro oltre 6 mm all'interno del display per non danneggiare il pulsante Home e i cavi del display sottostanti.

  26. Torci il plettro rimasto sotto la fotocamera frontale per separare il bordo superiore dello schermo dalla scocca del dispositivo. Torci il plettro rimasto sotto la fotocamera frontale per separare il bordo superiore dello schermo dalla scocca del dispositivo. Torci il plettro rimasto sotto la fotocamera frontale per separare il bordo superiore dello schermo dalla scocca del dispositivo.
    • Torci il plettro rimasto sotto la fotocamera frontale per separare il bordo superiore dello schermo dalla scocca del dispositivo.

  27. Continua a sollevare il gruppo schermo dal lato della fotocamera frontale. Tira il display verso l'esterno lentamente via dal bordo inferiore per separarlo completamente dal case posteriore. Continua a sollevare finché il gruppo schermo non sarà quasi perpendicolare alla scocca dell'iPad.
    • Continua a sollevare il gruppo schermo dal lato della fotocamera frontale.

    • Tira il display verso l'esterno lentamente via dal bordo inferiore per separarlo completamente dal case posteriore.

    • Continua a sollevare finché il gruppo schermo non sarà quasi perpendicolare alla scocca dell'iPad.

    • Non rimuovere ancora il display, è ancora attaccato al dispositivo da tre delicati cavi a nastro.

  28. Rimuovi l'unica vite a croce Phillips da 1,8 mm che fissa i terminali della batteria ai suoi contatti sulla scheda logica.
    • Rimuovi l'unica vite a croce Phillips da 1,8 mm che fissa i terminali della batteria ai suoi contatti sulla scheda logica.

    Be very careful when replacing the screws not to lose them. They are micro small. I would even think about ordering a couple extra of each size just in case.

    David Christoff - Replica

    I have damge this battery terminals to their contacts on the logic board when I remove the battery. So how to fix this? Can buy that hardware to make replacement? Urgent! Need Help!

    jackwong.123 - Replica

    Hi jackwong,

    If you are talking about the small springs that contact the battery, there is no easy way to replace them. You can try removing the board, applying a lump of solder on the contact with the broken spring, and see if that will be sufficient to connect to the battery contact when the board is screwed down.

    Arthur Shi -

    If the LTE version being worked on, ensure the sim tray is removed before attempting to isolate the battery.

    Brendon Gould - Replica

  29. Per ridurre il rischio di un corto circuito, puoi usare un plettro isolante per batterie per scollegarla. Il plettro isolante è un metodo obsoleto per isolare la batteria perché si rischia di danneggiare i pin della batteria sotto la scheda madre. Se usi questo metodo, stai estremamente attento ad inserirlo con delicatezza e dritto verso la scheda madre. Non girare né far oscillare il plettro da un lato all'altro.
    • Per ridurre il rischio di un corto circuito, puoi usare un plettro isolante per batterie per scollegarla.

    • Il plettro isolante è un metodo obsoleto per isolare la batteria perché si rischia di danneggiare i pin della batteria sotto la scheda madre. Se usi questo metodo, stai estremamente attento ad inserirlo con delicatezza e dritto verso la scheda madre. Non girare né far oscillare il plettro da un lato all'altro.

    • Fai scorrere il plettro isolante al di sotto del connettore dal lato della scheda logica e lascialo in posizione durante la procedura.

    Where am I supposed to get this part? I got the ifixit pro toolkit and didn't get this isolation pick

    Raid One - Replica

    Since the battery blocker is a specialized tool used only for iPad repairs, we do not include it in the toolkit. You can purchase one here, or you can make one yourself by cutting a notch out of an opening pick.

    Arthur Shi -

    Can’t you just disconnect the battery?

    Pontus Sennerstam - Replica

    So if this method is outdated, what is the current method to disconnecting the battery?

    Orochi - Replica

    Orochi: right?? Come on guys, don’t tell us the method is outdated and then not explain what the better method is

    Subtle Hyperbole - Replica

    A couple points: 1) You have piqued my interest! I’m now looking for the new, improved way to isolate the battery before embarking on the repair. 2) I have an iPad Air 2 with LTE, the area on ifixit.com for the LTE variant of the model does not have all the procedures that this WIFI only variant page has.

    bentley - Replica

    Hey bentley,

    If you find a way to safely isolate the battery without the risk of damaging the connector pins, keep us posted!

    Arthur Shi -

    I did not do this part and had no problems. Just don’t bridge any metal parts with the screwdriver. (at least I assume this is what would cause a short)

    Nancy Hansen - Replica

    Actually you can cause some shorts with your fingers too. You can skip this step, but you must bee very carefull going on.

    Daniele Carminati -

    Heat motherboard then use plastic stick or guitar pick to gently unstick motherboard enough to insert peace of paper where battery contacts are.

    Thank me later.

    Popka Durak - Replica

  30. Rimuovi le tre viti a croce Phillips da 1,3 mm dal supporto per il cavo del display. Rimuovi il supporto. Rimuovi il supporto.
    • Rimuovi le tre viti a croce Phillips da 1,3 mm dal supporto per il cavo del display.

    • Rimuovi il supporto.

  31. Scollega il cavo dati del display dal suo alloggiamento sulla scheda logica. Scollega il cavo dati del display dal suo alloggiamento sulla scheda logica.
    • Scollega il cavo dati del display dal suo alloggiamento sulla scheda logica.

  32. Scollega i due cavi rimanenti del touch screen sotto il cavo dati del display. Scollega i due cavi rimanenti del touch screen sotto il cavo dati del display. Scollega i due cavi rimanenti del touch screen sotto il cavo dati del display.
    • Scollega i due cavi rimanenti del touch screen sotto il cavo dati del display.

  33. Rimuovi il pannello frontale dal case posteriore.
    • Rimuovi il pannello frontale dal case posteriore.

    • Se hai intenzione di riutilizzare il display dopo averlo rimosso, dovrai sostituire l'adesivo. Segui la nostra Guida per l'applicazione dell'adesivo agli iPad per reinstallare l'adesivo sul tuo schermo e sigillare nuovamente il tuo dispositivo.

    Note on my iPad Air there was a little plastic cover around the front facing camera. Take that off an put it to one side as you will need it later for reassembly.

    John McDonnell - Replica

    At this stage I found you do not need to do most of the rest of this guide although it does come with a warning. The battery is tethered to a metal ring which is the base of the retention screw in step 29. After Step 33, you can separate out the batteries from its adhesive now with a blow dryer or the iOpener (step 56). You will then find the battery free but hooked onto the ring. Take the blue opening tool (see step 55 for which tool this is) and wedge it where the battery is to make a gap. You can then lift the battery contact from its hook. After removing the battery, insert the new one into the small gap created by the wedge. The caveat is that you are bending the logic board a bit with the wedge so use this technique at your discretion.

    Raza Toosy - Replica

    Thanks a lot! For my Celluar version (A1567 Air 2 Wi-Fi + Cellular), I followed the instructions to step 45 to remove all cables and connectors around the battery. Then I also jumped to step 56. To remove the middle part of the battery, I used a longer tool, a ruler, in addition to the enclosed "Plastic Cards". The glued battery could be removed by using the iOpener several times. In the end, the battery was only hanging on the clamp.

    Only now I understood that the battery was hanging on an eyelet on the back. The lever with the "iPad Battery Isolation Pick" was not enough. Therefore I cut an additional credit card with a small slot. The clamping point slipped out of the eyelet. The clamping point of the new battery could be plugged in again immediately.

    Josef Emmer -

  34. Appoggia il gruppo dello schermo a faccia in giù. Usa uno strumento di apertura in plastica per far leva sulla staffa sul retro del tasto Home. Usa uno strumento di apertura in plastica per far leva sulla staffa sul retro del tasto Home.
    • Appoggia il gruppo dello schermo a faccia in giù.

    • Usa uno strumento di apertura in plastica per far leva sulla staffa sul retro del tasto Home.

    May require pushing back some tape to access the slot for the opening tool

    Terry Dactil - Replica

  35. Rimuovi la copertura del tasto Home e il nastro adesivo attaccato a questa. Durante il rimontaggio, dopo aver installato il tasto Home, dovrai reincollare questa staffa in posizione per fissarla. Rimuovi quanto più adesivo possibile dalla copertura, quindi puliscila con dell'acetone o dell'alcool isopropilico ad alta concentrazione (&gt;90%).
    • Rimuovi la copertura del tasto Home e il nastro adesivo attaccato a questa.

    • Durante il rimontaggio, dopo aver installato il tasto Home, dovrai reincollare questa staffa in posizione per fissarla.

    • Rimuovi quanto più adesivo possibile dalla copertura, quindi puliscila con dell'acetone o dell'alcool isopropilico ad alta concentrazione (>90%).

    • Fissa la copertura con della colla a caldo, supercolla (cianoacrilica), o del nastro biadesivo molto resistente. Assicurati che la copertura sia allineata correttamente prima di incollarla, o il tasto Home non cliccherà quando lo premi.

    attention à cette étape de ne pas décoller en même temps la gappe du bouton. Celui ci peux etre tordu et difficile à remettre.

    jipilabont - Replica

  36. Rimuovi il nastro che copre il connettore ZIF del tasto Home. Rimuovi il nastro che copre il connettore ZIF del tasto Home. Rimuovi il nastro che copre il connettore ZIF del tasto Home.
    • Rimuovi il nastro che copre il connettore ZIF del tasto Home.

  37. Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per ruotare verso l'alto l'aletta di bloccaggio sul connettore ZIF del cavo del tasto Home. Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per ruotare verso l'alto l'aletta di bloccaggio sul connettore ZIF del cavo del tasto Home.
    • Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per ruotare verso l'alto l'aletta di bloccaggio sul connettore ZIF del cavo del tasto Home.

  38. Scollega il cavo a nastro del tasto Home. Scollega il cavo a nastro del tasto Home.
    • Scollega il cavo a nastro del tasto Home.

  39. Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per sollevare il cavo a nastro del tasto Home e il chip di controllo del Touch ID. Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per sollevare il cavo a nastro del tasto Home e il chip di controllo del Touch ID. Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per sollevare il cavo a nastro del tasto Home e il chip di controllo del Touch ID.
    • Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per sollevare il cavo a nastro del tasto Home e il chip di controllo del Touch ID.

  40. Solleva l'angolo rimasto del cavo a nastro del tasto Home. Solleva l'angolo rimasto del cavo a nastro del tasto Home.
    • Solleva l'angolo rimasto del cavo a nastro del tasto Home.

    What is the purpose of the contact finger that is exposed on the corner of the home button ribbon cable. What connects to this?

    Steven Teraoka - Replica

  41. Riscalda il tuo iOpener ed appoggialo sul bordo inferiore dello schermo per ammorbidire l'adesivo della guarnizione del tasto Home.
    • Riscalda il tuo iOpener ed appoggialo sul bordo inferiore dello schermo per ammorbidire l'adesivo della guarnizione del tasto Home.

    • Aspetta un paio di minuti per lasciar ammorbidire l'adesivo prima di procedere con il prossimo passo.

    Most screens don’t come with the home button adhesive so during reassembly the residue from the home button gasket is enough but the bracket needs new glue.

    Thaddeus Lee - Replica

  42. Nei prossimi passi dovrai separare la guarnizione del tasto Home dal pannello anteriore dell'iPad. Questa guarnizione è estremamente delicata e si può strappare facilmente. Se la guarnizione non si separa facilmente dal pannello anteriore, riscaldalo ancora con l'iOpener prima di continuare. Usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare delicatamente il gruppo del tasto Home dallo schermo. Usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare delicatamente il gruppo del tasto Home dallo schermo.
    • Nei prossimi passi dovrai separare la guarnizione del tasto Home dal pannello anteriore dell'iPad. Questa guarnizione è estremamente delicata e si può strappare facilmente. Se la guarnizione non si separa facilmente dal pannello anteriore, riscaldalo ancora con l'iOpener prima di continuare.

    • Usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare delicatamente il gruppo del tasto Home dallo schermo.

    Another option… heat it up a bit and then apply gentle pressure from the front of the button. Start with one “corner” and work your way around.

    Mine came out like very smoothly with this process.

    Good luck!

    John Monahan - Replica

  43. Continua a far scorrere la punta dello spudger attorno ai bordi della guarnizione fino a separarla completamente dal pannello anteriore. Continua a far scorrere la punta dello spudger attorno ai bordi della guarnizione fino a separarla completamente dal pannello anteriore. Continua a far scorrere la punta dello spudger attorno ai bordi della guarnizione fino a separarla completamente dal pannello anteriore.
    • Continua a far scorrere la punta dello spudger attorno ai bordi della guarnizione fino a separarla completamente dal pannello anteriore.

  44. Rimuovi il gruppo del tasto Home. Se stai sostituendo il gruppo dello schermo, alcuni gruppi hanno una posizione del connettore del tasto Home leggermente diversa, che ti richiederà di piegarne il cavo a forma di &quot;S&quot; come mostrato nell'immagine. Se stai sostituendo il gruppo dello schermo, alcuni gruppi hanno una posizione del connettore del tasto Home leggermente diversa, che ti richiederà di piegarne il cavo a forma di &quot;S&quot; come mostrato nell'immagine.
    • Rimuovi il gruppo del tasto Home.

    • Se stai sostituendo il gruppo dello schermo, alcuni gruppi hanno una posizione del connettore del tasto Home leggermente diversa, che ti richiederà di piegarne il cavo a forma di "S" come mostrato nell'immagine.

    There is also a plastic waster around the hole which can be lifted and placed on the new screen - not just the grommet.

    John McDonnell - Replica

    Yeah, that’s a big problem with this guide. Not to mention the home button bracket needs the little magnet in the circle dimple. I broke my original home button from trying to get the darn thing to work using a new home button bracket until I used the old bracket with the tiny magnet and suddenly it worked. Since the original home button ribbon had broken I can no longer use touch ID.

    Overall this guide is really lacking in critical details, like how exactly the home button assembly is put together and taken apart, like where the little plastic washer, and grommet go.

    Grant Godfrey - Replica

    And this picture is out of focus, making it hard to differentiate the items that are mentioned/warned about in the written portion.

    Evan A Boyle - Replica

  45. Esamina la tua parte di ricambio e il tuo display originale stando attento che le due parti combacino. Il tuo schermo sostitutivo potrebbe non avere il sensore di accensione/spegnimento  che è necessario per utilizzare la Smart Cover. Se vuoi mantenere questa funzionalità avrai bisogno di trasferire questo componente. Dissalda i quattro pads  saldati dalla parte bassa a sinistra del display per rimuovere il cavo del gruppo sensore.
    • Esamina la tua parte di ricambio e il tuo display originale stando attento che le due parti combacino.

    • Il tuo schermo sostitutivo potrebbe non avere il sensore di accensione/spegnimento che è necessario per utilizzare la Smart Cover. Se vuoi mantenere questa funzionalità avrai bisogno di trasferire questo componente.

    • Dissalda i quattro pads saldati dalla parte bassa a sinistra del display per rimuovere il cavo del gruppo sensore.

    • Il passo successivo include le istruzioni per trasferire questo sensore al nuovo display da assemblare.

    I guess I may have not soldered the sleep/wake sensor right and it was not working after I put the new screen back on. I wish there could be a way to test if the soldering was good or not before I connect the screen back. Also, I have found that even the sleep/wake button near the upper right corner even cannot put the ipad into sleep or wake it up by pressing it once. I guess this could related with the sensor, and the lock/unlock option under the "display & brightness" setting has also been gone due to this issue. So I would say this sensor is not only for the smart case, but also for the sleep/wake button to work as well (the other functions of this button such as poweroff, taking screenshots are still working fine). Solder it carefully if you still want the button to work.

    Ming Chen - Replica

    Hmm, thank you for the tip Ming Chen. Sounds a bit daunting but i’ll see how the repair goes.

    Lilly - Replica

    It worked! Outsourced the soldering job. But sleep/wake feature works.

    Lilly -

    This is the most tricky part of the repair - don’t over force the separation. Don’t over heat the pads with the iron too as it needs to be soldered back. Soldering back is straight forward. I recommend you have an iron with a decent tip.

    John McDonnell - Replica

    can this be done with a regular soldering iron? or does it need to be a micro soldering?

    lopes.miguelac - Replica

    what size adhesive tape is required to reattach the display to the case?

    scottschindler - Replica

    it is way easier to remove the display sensor using hot air. Add a little flux and apply hot air @ 400c for a few seconds and it flips right off clean, no solder bleed onto the other pads. clean pads if needed then use kapton tape to secure it onto place over tinned pads of the new display, add flux and swipe over the pads with a iron. Clean with IPA and done. The right tools make the difference here, the photo of the repaired pads in this guide look horrific.

    James Ho - Replica

    I ripped this part off. Is it done for?

    Jake Green - Replica

    Will I have to remove the sensor if my replacment display already comes with it? I kinda got confused with the wording on this step

    Xavier - Replica

    Hi Xavier,

    If your replacement display already has the sensor, you do not have to transfer the old one.

    Arthur Shi -

    • Questo video mostra la procedura per dissaldare il cavo flessibile del sensore e per riattaccarlo al nuovo display.

    Hello,

    short urgent question:

    Is this step (desolder the sensor felx) necessary for the function of the display or only for the Home button (touch ID) function?

    Stephan Döbling - Replica

    Hi is the sensor only for Smart Cover ?

    Malik Malhan - Replica

    3y w/o any answers

    Magnifika Mole - Replica

    As stated in the previous step, this step is for transferring the sleep/wake sensor that is used with the Smart Cover. It is unrelated to the Home button or the display.

    Arthur Shi - Replica

    I didnt solder this off but ripped it off. Any way to fix?

    Jake Green - Replica

  46. Rimane il gruppo display.
    • Rimane il gruppo display.

    You may need to transfer the camera surround from the old digitizer, if your new part does not include it.

    Kelly - Replica

    Do not forget to clean off the old glue around the edges. it takes a while but is worthwhile to make the new screen with the new adhesive stick better.

    John McDonnell - Replica

Conclusione

Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

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Evan Noronha

Membro da: 05/02/2015

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What about the part soldered to the display to the left of the home button? It's showcased in step 43 but hidden with black tape then missing in step 44? What is the significants of this component or flex cable...

jmcdonough - Replica

Where is the transfer of the sleep/wake sensor? its a 4 point solder connection.

Anthony W - Replica

Be careful if you replace the home button bracket, many of the replacements do not have the small silver disc that sits in the recess on the inside of the bracket. If you do not transfer this from the old one, the home button will not work as there will be nothing for the home button to press against

waynechamberlain - Replica

can you describe how to transfer the sensor flex cable assembly (four small solder points left to home button on step 45)?

No use to buy your spare part without this step!

kaspar - Replica

This is one of the harder steps to accomplish I felt. You need to de-solder the four points by heating them up at the same time if possible. They actually have small holes in the center of them for the solder to go through to the bottom pads. Once it is removed you need to clean them off and remove as much old solder as possible without damaging the ribbon they are on. Once you have the new screen in place you need to put the part in its appropriate place and then solder the points. Using an ample amount of flux is helpful but you have to clean up afterwards with IP alcohol. If you have a small microscope or good camera you can zoom in and see if the connections are solid and then you are done.

Benjamin Huntsman -

Having the same problem as Kaspar. Cannot re-install sleep/wake sensor.

Christopher Williams - Replica

Looking for the display cable bracket, but it is impossible to find. Anyone?

Stefan L - Replica

I´ve replace LCD Display for newer one because crash it before, but the actual problem is that I don´t have any image. If I press the power button, just display gray color. What can I do?

David Reva - Replica

You will have to check the connection of the ribbon cables, but generally this means you have a bad replacement screen (LCD in particular). I would recommend getting a new screen (digitizer and lcd) assembly.

JJ Burrill -

For the sleep wake sensor, I just took my hakko iron, no flux or anything special and de soldered the sensor from the original screen. After this I aligned it on the new one with my tweezers and heated it up with my iron around 650 F. Once my tip was tinned, I got the solder flowing and it was all connected. Either I'm good at soldering (I think so?) or I got lucky. Would have been easier with flux but it is not impossible. The repair was 100% successful, and the sensor works perfect in the case... Hope others have the same luck I did! Took me about 3 ish hours to completely get the screen off, parts transferred, and the adhesive mess cleaned before resealing the new one down.

JJ Burrill - Replica

I just received iFixit LCD/digitizer/glass replacement assembly for iPad Air 2 (A1566) and see the distance between the IC’s on either side of the home button ribbon cable is narrower than on the original LCD! There is no room for the Touch ID chip since the distance from the Ziff connector (where the home button ribbon cable attaches) to the IC next to where the Touch ID chip goes is narrower by about 8mm!

Is there a new version of the home button with a shorter ribbon cable or is this a mistake in the replacement screens? To re-use the original home button you would have to fold its ribbon cable or put the Touch chip up on the IC so it would probably not allow the screen assembly to seat properly.

Has anyone else had this problem?

James Sturgeon - Replica

I am having the same issue! Did this ever get resolved for you?

Jonathan Nicholas -

Having trouble getting the home button to work … thankfully I’ve not stuck the new screen in place yet.

The home button gasket is in perfect condition,as is the bracket.

Everything looks correct, but there is no click from the button.

I can however activate the home button with the case open, by pressing on the small brass/metal piece in the centre … there is an audible click on the screen behaves as it should.

When remounting the home button bracket, is it OK to use glue or is it best to use tape, which in turn would create a small “gap” between the bracket and the front panel, or is best to use glue and just ensure that the bracket is as tight as possible up against the front panel, with no gap whatsoever.

In the event I cannot get the home button to work, then the workaround is to use the AssistiveTouch software option, which in theory removes the need to use/have a hardware button … not ideal though, so advice on how to fix the button is appreciated.

Chris - Replica

I’m having the same problem. Will update once/if I figure it out. Otherwise, thanks for the suggestion using assistive touch.

Stephen -

I have completed all the steps. Apple logo came on when i first attempted to power on. now there is nothing. any suggestions?

ryb4420 - Replica

Cannot get picks in to open case. Used iOpener repeatedly, but screen will not lift away from case? Any tips?

Rob - Replica

Just so I’m clear… can I skip the soldering steps if I don’t want the cover sensor functionality?

Andrew Wolff - Replica

could I not stick the screen down and test it without sticking the screen down so that I can double-check and make sure that everything works?

Aussie Ginger - Replica

Yes, you can test the functionality without sticking the screen down. Make sure that the edges of the screen do not touch anything that can short it.

Arthur Shi -

With the battery isolation pick being outdated, what do you use instead? Is it best to just take out the battery and disconnect it when repairing iPads?

Mobile Service Point - Replica

We are currently working on a more reliable and safer procedure to disconnect the battery. In the meanwhile, continue to use the battery blocker. I would caution being extra careful when you insert the blocker, to make sure that it does not snag or hit any pins.

Arthur Shi -

My display unit (from iFixit) came with wake/sleep sensor installed, so no (de-)soldering required! I just transferred the home button assembly and all little bits of tape from the original screen to keep home button and wake/sleep sensor in place. I used a 3M nexcare hot/cold pack to loosen the display glue, which works, but you need to heat the pack beyond its spec (needs to go up to 80-100 degrees Celsius): fortunately the pack is transparent, so you can stop the microwave when you see the pack starting to boil(!). Leave pack on glue for 6-10 minutes, not 2. Finally, my screen was cracked, so I needed to repeat the “initial opening” procedure with the suction cup for each contiguous piece of glass. Whole process took about 2 hours, the hardest bit of which was loosening the original screen.

Dennis Wagelaar - Replica

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