Introduzione
Se hai provato a pulire la porta Lightning senza successo, segui questa guida per sostituire il gruppo connettore Lightning del tuo iPhone 8 Plus. Questa riparazione può risolvere problemi di ricarica e connessione.
Cosa ti serve
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Spegni il tuo iPhone prima di iniziare lo smontaggio.
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Rimuovi le due viti pentalobe da 3,4 mm sul lato inferiore dell'iPhone.
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Misura 3 mm dalla punta del plettro e segna questa distanza con un pennarello indelebile.
Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?
Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?
I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.
what fix kit?
My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either
My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary
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Posiziona strisce sovrapposte di nastro trasparente da pacchi sullo schermo dell'iPhone finché non l'hai coperto tutto.
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Se non riesci a far aderire la ventosa nei prossimi passi, applica del nastro adesivo resistente (come del nastro americano telato) come una maniglia e alza lo schermo con quello.
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Tira la maniglia blu indietro per sbloccare i bracci dell'Anti-Clamp.
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Fai scorrere i bracci oltre il bordo sinistro o destro del tuo iPhone.
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Posiziona le ventose vicino al bordo inferiore dell'iPhone, una di fronte e una sul retro.
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Premi le ventose insieme per farle aderire sull'area desiderata.
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Scalda un iOpener e fallo passare tra i bracci dell'Anti-Clamp.
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Piega l'iOpener così che sia appoggiato sul bordo inferiore dell'iPhone.
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Attendi un minuto per dare all'adesivo la possibilità di staccarsi e creare una fessura d'apertura.
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Inserisci un plettro sotto lo schermo quando l'Anti-Clamp avrà creato una fessura abbastanza grande.
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Salta i prossimi tre passaggi.
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Usa un asciugacapelli oppure prepara un iOpener e applicalo per circa 90 secondi al bordo inferiore dell'iPhone per ammorbidire l'adesivo sottostante.
6/14/23 I did this repair but used a heat gun on low for 60 seconds. This allowed me to open the case as the instructions say, but in the end the Home button failed. I probably over heated it. I used this "go around" for a virtual Home button. I don't care about touch ID:
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Applica una ventosa nella metà inferiore del pannello frontale, appena sopra il pulsante home.
Using just the single suction cup that is included in the battery replacement kit probably wouldn’t open the device. An iOpener and an iSlack should be the recommended method. However, you can get it open with just the single suction cup and iOpener, but does take a lot of time.
Get an iOpener and iSlack with the battery replacement kit.
I used a flat x-acto (#18) blade knife tool to gently pry back the screen enough to allow me to insert the pick near the bottom corner. I then worked the pick under the screen as mentioned in steps 5 & 6 below then. This worked really well for me.
I used the suction cup without heating the phone - the adhesive came away quite easily without applying any heat. Maybe due to age of phone (nearly 4 years old). Worth trying.
My screen was very shattered, and was quite hard to get suction, as my tape was very low quality. However, after pulling it up a little bit, I was able to insert a regular razor blade into the very small gap and used that as a lever.
Oh my goodness! Don't do that again. You can definitely damage something in the phone if you use a sharp metal razor blade..
cytur -
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Tira la ventosa applicando una tensione forte e costante fino a creare una piccola fessura tra il gruppo display e il case posteriore.
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Inserisci nella fessura un plettro di apertura o un altro attrezzo fine per una profondità di qualche millimetro.
After multiple tries and using a very hot iOpener, it will not open.
In sheer frustration, I pulled out my trusty pocket knife and managed to lift the bottom of the screen slightly, but in the process, cracked the glass from the bottom to the home button. The case is open now.
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Fai scorrere il tuo attrezzo attorno all'angolo e lungo il bordo sinistro del telefono, spostandoti verso i pulsanti del controllo volume e l'interruttore della modalità silenziosa, per rompere l'adesivo che tiene in posizione il display.
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Fermati vicino all'angolo superiore sinistro del display.
Do not go over the top otherwise you can crack the screen. Sadly happened to me :(
The instruction should be:
“Stop near BUT BEFORE REACHING the top left corner of the display”
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Inserisci nuovamente il tuo attrezzo nell'angolo inferiore destro dell'iPhone e fallo scorrere attorno all'angolo e lungo il lato destro del telefono per separare l'adesivo.
I had really good luck using a hairdryer on some of the more stubborn portions of adhesive.
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Fai scorrere uno strumento di apertura sotto il display lungo il bordo superiore del telefono per allentare l'adesivo rimasto.
Be very careful at this step. The glass at the top will break very easy when the display is lifted too much.
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Apri l'iPhone sollevando il display dal lato sinistro, come per sollevare la copertina posteriore di un libro.
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Appoggia il display contro qualche tipo di supporto per mantenerlo aperto mentre lavori sul telefono.
Das “links” ist auf dem Foto rechts.
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Rimuovi le quattro viti Phillips (JIS) che fissano la staffa del cavo inferiore del display alla scheda logica:
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Due viti da 1,3 mm
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Una vite da 1,4 mm
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Una vite da 2,7 mm
The Phillips screwdriver bit is the PH000. The measurement refers to the screw length.
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Usa la punta di uno spudger per staccare il connettore della batteria sollevandolo dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.
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Piega lievemente da un lato il cavo del connettore per evitare che questo possa fare contatto con lo zoccolo e quindi alimentare il telefono nel corso della tua riparazione.
When I reassembled the iPhone 8 Plus, I had to plug it into a Lightning cable to wake it up (just pushing power button wasn’t sufficient).
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Usa la punta di uno spudger oppure un'unghia per staccare il grande connettore inferiore del display tirandolo dritto verso l'alto dal suo alloggiamento.
I got hold of a iPhone 8 Plus with cracked screen that I am planning to fix.
Here is my problem:
When I tried to take out the screen from my phone, (step 15-18) I was curious about the new screen, so I tried to connect it. It was completely dead! Then I tried the old cracked one, and suddenly that was dead to! This is a phone that some fool has been inside earlier and changed battery, but I suspect he has done some more really stupid things. The Taptic Engine is living its own life and vibrating every time I slightly touch the home button. (I have a new Taptic Engine) The phone is also full of dust and small particles that does not belong there. One tri-point Y000 screw (step 18) is even missing! Now the biggest problem is that both screens are black! I know the phone is on, because I hear voice command speak when I turn on the power. The screen worked before I tried to change it? And one last thing: My new LCD screen came with new flex cables. Is it possible to switch over, so I can use the old ones?
Hi,
Is your problem solved?
Be careful of damaging MOSFETs by the LH side of the large lower display cable. After replacing the battery and turning the device on, the phone showed low charge and didn't have a charging symbol even after plugging into multiple cables and chargers. Turns out I had damaged the logic board attempting to disconnect the connector.
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Stacca il secondo connettore inferiore del cavo del display, proprio sotto quello che hai disconnesso nel passo precedente.
I used the other end of the spudger on this connector and it seemed to work a little better for me. I came in from underneath the top-right edge instead of the bottom right.
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Rimuovi le due viti tri-wing Y000 che tengono in posizione la staffa sopra il connettore del gruppo sensore del pannello frontale:
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Una vite da 1,0 mm
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Una vite da 1,2 mm
una vite da 1mm e due viti da 1.2 mm???
Ciao Matteo! Grazie per l’osservazione. Ho appena modificato il testo :) La traduzione è aperta a tutti. Hai quindi la possibilità di fare le tue suggestione direttamente nel testo e sei il benvenuto se vuoi usare di questa possibilità nel futuro. Grazie ancora per la vigilanza! Saluti, Claire
The tool kit does include a 1.0 or1.2mm screwdriver! How am I supposed to remove those screws?
Bought the screwdriver that supposedly fits these screws and it still doesn’t work.
My bracket looks different. Can’t get these screws out.
kit came with wrong bit. i received 2x P02 (penta tips) and no tri point y000.
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Usa la punta di uno spudger oppure un'unghia per staccare dalla sua sede il connettore del gruppo sensore del pannello frontale.
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Rimuovi il gruppo display.
Should there be a step somewhere in here to point out when to remove the blue plastic from the new iFixit screen?
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Svita le due viti Y000 che tengono in posizione la staffa del connettore della fotocamera posteriore:
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Una vite da 1,4 mm
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Una vite (non ferrosa) da 1,4 mm
the standoff screw underneath the left screw came loose together and was impossible to detach from the screw. In a later step (49) it was possible to remove it together with the antenna flex cable
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Svita le due viti che fissano la piastra di protezione del modulo della fotocamera:
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Una vite a croce Phillips da 1,8 mm
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Un distanziale a vite (non ferroso) da 2,7 mm
Yeah, the flathead screw driver is not really a good option for the standoff screwdriver bit. I managed to remove the standoff screws easily enough, but replacing them with the flathead was laborious.
Does the second screw (nonferrous standoff 2.7mm) actually exist? My phone has not had any repairs before but did not have this screw, and the previous step says there's a Y000 screw (for the bracket) in what appears to be exactly the same location as this step says the standoff screw is.
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Rimuovi il gruppo fotocamera posteriore.
Using the small supplied none-conductive baggy you get in your parts repair kit, it is generally advised to put your camera sensor in said bag to protect it from dust or other debris as this will not come off the sensor and will mean another repair where one could have been avoided.
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Svita le tre viti a croce Phillips che tengono in posizione il componente antenna superiore sinistra:
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Due viti da 1,3 mm
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Una vite da 3,1 mm
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Rimuovi la vite a croce Phillips da 1,3 mm che fissa il componente antenna al bordo superiore della cover posteriore.
This screw is stuck and will not come out. I'm using the same head I used for the previous one which is the same size. I've even tried them all. I can get any other screw fine but this one will not come out. Just wasted my time undoing everything up to then and this stupid screw is stopping me from finishing.
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Inclina il componente antenna verso l'alto e la parte superiore dell'iPhone.
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Fai scorrere l'occhiello della vite verso il basso e fuori dal suo incavo.
I accidently ripped the screw boss of the antenna component. Is that very bad? Do I need to replace the antenna component, or could I try to solder it back on, or does it even matter? Thanks in advance.
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Rimuovi le tre viti di fissaggio della staffa a forma di L vicino al Taptic Engine:
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Una vite Torx Y000 da 1,3 mm
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Una vite a croce Phillips da 2,6 mm
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Una vite a croce Phillips da 3,5 mm
De Y000 schroef nam meteen ook de 2.4 mm standoff-schroef aan de achterzijde mee. Wat lastig om die uit elkaar te halen.
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Usa un plettro di apertura per separare con cautela la parte del cavo flessibile dell'antenna incollata dalla superficie superiore dell'altoparlante
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Con la punta di uno spudger stacca e scollega l'altra estremità del cavo flessibile dell'antenna dal suo zoccolo vicino alla porta Lightning.
I was unable to plug this back in when re-assembling. My home button doesn’t work anymore. The connector it was supposed to plug into seems to spin around.
I had a similar experience during this repair. My problem was that the nib on the ribbon that actually connects in to the socket came off the ribbon cable when I initially detached the cable. I didn’t realize this until after the repair, but I also had to replace the Wifi Diversity cable entirely. A tell-tale sign is that you don’t receive good cell reception.
Lucas -
I did not notice until reassembly, but the antenna socket pulled off the board. I have no micro-soldering tools. The friction of the connector was greater than the solder holding it in place.
The little connector in the first picture ripped the component off the circuit board when trying to pry it up so be careful. I’m guessing it’s like a previous poster said and the socket is stronger than the glue/material that holds the component to the PCB. This was on a new board during disassembly trying to locate a potential problem. Phone still workings with WiFi and cellular normally but the cellular signal is down about 1/3 on average wherever I am.
Mine broke too and wifi still works fine
Does this have anything to donwith upper speaker connection?
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Rimuovi l'antenna diversity del Wi-fi.
This had a little adhesive on the metal band. Couldn’t just pluck it out as shown. What I did worked but what I should’ve done is run my blue puck up and down the length.
I followed these steps to this point and maybe applied force in the wrong spot or too much force and it appears that when I loosened the wifi diversity antenna from the socket below the Taptic Engine module, it came up with the socket detached from the logic board. Did I just really screw up my iPhones WiFi capability?
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Rimuovi le tre viti che fissano la staffa vicino al Taptic Engine:
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Due viti a croce Phillips da 1,5 mm
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Un distanziale a vite da 2,4 mm
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Inserisci lo strumento di estrazione SIM o una graffetta nel piccolo foro del vassoio della scheda SIM.
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Premi saldamente per espellere il vassoio.
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Usa la punta di uno spudger per spostare il cursore di estrazione della scheda SIM lontano dalla scheda logica.
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Svita le due viti a croce Phillips che fissano la staffa che copre il connettore del cavo superiore:
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Una vite da 3,1 mm
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Una vite da 1,3 mm
Die rechte Schraube ( Orange) ist eine 1,3mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
Geändert! Danke für den Hinweis.
VauWeh -
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Svita la vite a croce Phillips da 1,2 mm che fissa il cavo flessibile dell'antenna al bordo superiore del case posteriore dell'iPhone.
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Solleva e scollega il cavo flessibile del gruppo connettore Lightning dalla scheda logica con la punta di uno spudger.
I did this repair and I followed it too a T, but when I reassembled, the flex cable for the Lightning connector assembly keeps popping out. Ive replaced it twice and followed your guide exactly. No mistakes. But when I go to clip it back in, it always does that….
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Svita le cinque viti che tengono in posizione la scheda logica:
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Due viti a croce Phillips da 1,8 mm
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Un distanziale a vite da 2,3 mm
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Un distanziale a vite da 2,4 mm
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Un distanziale a vite da 2,7 mm
My repair kit from iFixit included a standoff screwdriver bit. I do not recommend trying this without one.
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Fai scorrere il tuo plettro lungo la larghezza dell'iPhone per staccare le parti rimaste del gruppo connettore Lightning dal case posteriore.
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Rimuovi il gruppo connettore Lightning.
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Adopera un attrezzo di plastica per staccare tutti i pezzi di adesivo residuo dalla cover posteriore.
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Pulisci accuratamente ogni residuo adesivo dalla superficie con alcol isopropilico (concentrazione pari o superiore al 90%) e un panno privo di pelucchi. Passa il panno in un'unica direzione, non avanti e indietro.
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Dopo la sostituzione non funziona più il microfono, ma se non ho capito male i microfoni sono integrati nel gruppo connettore di ricarica giusto? Questo significa che è difettoso? Non mi pare sia possibile montarli male (dato che appunto in effetti non sono da montare). Potrebbe essere qualche impostazione nel sistema operativo per abilitare i nuovi microfoni?
Correctly positions the new Lightning connector assembly is very important! I found that event the slightest misalignment will prevent you from easily reconnecting the flex cable to the logic board. I had to remove the logic board and peel back some of the new adhesive on my replacement Lightning connector a few times in order to get the proper alignment. I found it useful to plug in the flex cable prior to mounting the logic board so that you have at some leeway when lining up the connectors.
Make sure to save the rubber gasket for the lightning connector as my kit did not come with a replacement. The kit also included replacement screens for the microphones but no instructions or labelled parts so you’ll have to use your best guess as to how to install them. Make sure to take pictures of the old screens before you pull them out and use those pics as reference.
Confronta la tua parte nuova sostitutiva con quella originale: potrebbe essere necessario trasferire alcuni componenti o rimuovere supporti adesivi dalla nuova parte prima di installarla.
Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui i passi qui sopra in ordine inverso.
Porta i tuoi rifiuti elettronici a un riciclatore certificato R2 o e-Stewards.
La riparazione non è andata secondo i piani? Vai sulla nostra comunità Risposte per trovare aiuto nella risoluzione dei problemi.
Confronta la tua parte nuova sostitutiva con quella originale: potrebbe essere necessario trasferire alcuni componenti o rimuovere supporti adesivi dalla nuova parte prima di installarla.
Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui i passi qui sopra in ordine inverso.
Porta i tuoi rifiuti elettronici a un riciclatore certificato R2 o e-Stewards.
La riparazione non è andata secondo i piani? Vai sulla nostra comunità Risposte per trovare aiuto nella risoluzione dei problemi.
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17 Commenti
40 minutes seems crazy fast for this repair. If anyone can do this entire repair from beginning to end utilizing these steps in 40 minutes… they should spend a day or two practicing the Rubik’s cube and go smash the world record.
The guide helped me accomplish the repair. So, for that, thank you very much.
Very well done and easy to follow. Great piece of work and I appreciate the time spent putting it all together.
Have repaired 2 other iPhones, 6 and 6S, using the guides found here. When confronted with the iPhone 8 plus repair this is the site I came to.
Again, very well done indeed.
Kudos
Where dose one find a new gasket for the lighting cable?
You will not find a more comprehensive or thorough or accurate guide to dismantling and replacing the charging port on an iPhone 8 Plus than this. Awesome guide, thanks for your attention to detail and thoroughness! Bravo!
Thank you very much for the very detailed repair instructions. My microphone wasn’t working properly and I was able to get it fixed for just $12! (got the replacement from eBay)
Dopo la sostituzione non funziona più il microfono, ma se non ho capito male i microfoni sono integrati nel gruppo connettore di ricarica giusto? Questo significa che è difettoso? Non mi pare sia possibile montarli male (dato che appunto in effetti non sono da montare). Potrebbe essere qualche impostazione nel sistema operativo per abilitare i nuovi microfoni?
Mi correggo, ho problemi solo durante le chiamate, se uso l’app note vocali o whatsapp o faccio video con entrambe le fotocamere non ho problemi
Why is removing the camera and antenna necessary for replacing the lightning port?
nvrm i see why
Buon pomeriggio, devo fare i complimenti al sito per come e dettagliato ogni guida e riparazione. adesso ho finito di riparare un iphone 8 plus e va una bomba
Wish I had been told I would need a standoff screwdriver before I was halfway into taking the thing apart…
This was not a quick job. It took me far longer than expected because the sound did not work the first time that I re-assembled it. I took the phone back apart far enough to remove the speaker and clean the contacts. On re-assembly, it would not boot cleanly. It continuously rebooted until I had to restore to factory settings and reload from save.
Make sure you have a current save _before_ you do this repair.
I want to let everyone know that it is absolutely unnecessary to remove the entire logic board when doing this repair. You only need to remove the SIM holder and the the 2 (or 3 on XR) logic board screws (2 saddle screws and 1 Phillips on XR, 2 saddles on 7/8 series) that hold the logic board down. Once those are removed, you can gently lift the lower end of the logic board up enough to slide the portion of the dock flex that is under the logic board out from under the logic board. A few things to keep in mind when removing the existing port are that once all screws and brackets and such are taken off, you need to start the pulling up and removal of the old charging port flex starting from the very bottom first, I start with the with the 2 microphones and then the lightning port itself. As you free the existing port from the bottom upwards, when you peel up the flex where it is held down with adhesive nearing the logic board, it will then simply slide out from under the logic board.
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Ran out of characters!..When you go to install the new port, you must START the process by sliding the new flex cable back up underneath the logic board first (you may need to hold the battery flex cable out of the way a bit and pre bend the new ports flex cable at the connector so that it will slide up easily) and then attach the new flex cable to the connector on the logic board FIRST before you do any other screw or adhesive installations. This way you don't end up struggling to try to get the connector to re-connect to the logic board at the end. If you don't do it this way and you start re-installing the new port from the bottom without pre-connecting it to the logic board, any slight misalignment may cause the connector to not line up properly when you go to connect it to the logic board. I feel on any iPhone component removal/replacement, the less extra parts and connectors you have to touch, pry on, disconnect and/or remove and then reconnect, the better. Good luck all! - Chad from GURUmicro.
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This was a very helpful guide and the photos were really well done. A few pointers for newbies to iPhone repair like myself.
1) The base install (no mesh screen replacements near the microphones) is about 3 hours. Another 45 minutes or so for the mesh screens as there were no instructions.
2) There were no instructions on how to start the phone back up so here is what happened to me. After plugging everything back in (but the phone screen still physically separated from the phone body) I could not start the phone from the battery despite it having about a 30% charge. I ended up taking the phone apart 2 times checking all the connections but couldn’t find a faulty one. In this process I ended up snapping a part related to the antenna off of the PCB (Step 36, see comment above). What ended up working was plugging the phone into a fast charger and waiting about 5 minutes. I wasn’t able to start it after 1 minute and was worried, but after 5 minutes it booted up normally and everything is fine.
Does this remove any functionality with the phone? I know apple is very difficult with the “right to repair”. At least with replacing the home button and battery, fingerprint and battery health functionality is removed. Does something similar happen with this?
The microphone of my Iphone8 plus isn't working and the speaker isn't sounding nice, what should I do?....
As someone with very little to no experience repairing smartphones, I will say that 40min-2hrs is very generous. It took me almost 9 hours to replace both the lightning cable adapter and the battery at the same time, and most of that was just working through the adhesives of both the display and the battery. The second-most time-consuming part was just keeping each screw labeled and organized - I used some sticky tabs to keep the screws in the cardboard trays that the replacement parts came in. Aside from that, the repair process wasn't bad at all. I made some mistakes: I accidentally scraped off some of the black film (graphite?) that was on the logic board, and I placed the new adapter just slightly too far to the right, which made plugging it into the logic board later a bit difficult. If I had to do it again, I would definitely prefer to try the Anti-Clamp and the iOpener - I had neither for this repair, and I would bet having both would have made it much easier. It'd be nice if they came with the tools.
what do I do about super stripped screws?
Ean Palacios - Replica
I’m sorry, your comment slipped past my radar earlier. For future fixers that might see this and ask the same question, you can check out our stripped screw guide for some detailed advice.
Adam O'Camb -
Do you need a toolkit like the essential toolkit
Adam Palmer - Replica
Hi Adam. Having a tool kit with all of the listed parts above is best. The screw heads are very small and each set of screws needs a very specific type of driver to remove them without stripping any of them.
Kyle Luksa -