Introduzione
Usa questa guida per rimuovere con sicurezza la batteria incollata del tuo MacBook Pro con l'aiuto di un kit iFixit dotato di liquido antiadesivo. Il solvente è studiato per ammorbidire la colla che tiene ferma la batteria, permettendoti di toglierla facilmente.
L'antiadesivo iFixit è infiammabile. Esegui questa procedura in un'area ben ventilata. Non fumare e non lavorare vicino a una fiamma libera.
Per minimizzare il rischio di danneggiamenti, accendi il tuo MacBook e consenti alla batteria di scaricarsi completamente prima di iniziare questa procedura. Una batteria al litio-ioni carica può creare un incendio pericoloso e incontrollabile se viene forata accidentalmente. Se la tua batteria sembra gonfia o ingrossata, prendi adeguate precauzioni.
Nota: il solvente usato per sciogliere l'adesivo della batteria può danneggiare alcuni tipi di plastica. Segui con cura le istruzioni e stai molto attento quando applichi l'antiadesivo.
Strumenti
Ricambi
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Accendi il tuo Mac e lancia Terminal.
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Copia e incolla seguente comando (oppure riportalo esattamente) in Terminal:
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00
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Premi [return]. Se richiesta, inserisci la tua password di amministratore e premi di nuovo [return]. Nota: il tuo tasto return può essere etichettato anche come ⏎ o "enter."
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03
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Usa un cacciavite pentalobe P5 per rimuovere le sei viti che fissano la cover inferiore, delle seguenti lunghezze:
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Quattro viti da 4,7 mm
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Due viti da 6,6 mm
So this need to replace each and every screw in its exact former position explains exactly the excruciating difficulty I am having in getting the set of four shorter screws screws back in after everything else having gone successfully. Wanna scream at the top of my lungs. Maybe this point needed to be made in all ALL CAPS and BOLD for me. So can I still just start over trying each screw in each hole or have I messed up the threads in trying to screw in screws mismatched to their holes?
The front screws are at a slight angle, pay attention when putting them back!
I did not have the magnetic project mat, but instead I stuck loops of blue painter's tape on the table, wrote the step number on them in sharpie, and stuck the screws/covers for the corresponding step on them.
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Posiziona e quindi premi una ventosa vicino al bordo anteriore della cover inferiore, tra i fori delle viti.
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Tira la ventosa giusto quanto basta per aprire una piccola fessura sotto la cover inferiore.
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Tira la cover inferiore con decisione verso la parte anteriore del MacBook (allontanandola dal lato con le cerniere) per separare l'ultima delle clip che trattiene il case.
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Tira prima da un angolo e poi dall'altro.
I found it easier to insert a screwdriver through the hole (not too far down), and use that to pull sideways, as it was hard to get a strong grip with my fingers.
If you have a black stick, or a nylon probe tool, you can insert it at the back at the point closest to the screw holes, and use that to push the lower case forward. I’ve seen this help me quite a few times, and it makes it quite easier.
I like adrianbrown's suggestion. Spot on!
Its difficult if the side catches arent released properly, check them again if it seems too much.
I snapped one of the spring loaded logic board grounding pins. Take your time. Leverage from the back in order to push it out versus pulling on it.
Take the opening pick and stick the edge down behind the hinge all the way to one side, so it is perpendicular to the case, and give it a twist. That end should pop free. Do the same on the other side and there you go.
This step requires a lot of force to slide the back cover away. Make sure you get a good grip of the mac body and of the back panel.
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Rimuovi la cover inferiore.
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Disponilo in posizione e allinea le clip a scorrimento vicino alla cerniera del display. Premi verso il basso e fai scorrere la cover verso la cerniera. Lo scorrimento si dovrebbe arrestare non appena le clip si agganciano.
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Quando le clip a scorrimento sono perfettamente agganciate e la cover sembra correttamente allineata, premi con decisione la cover stessa per agganciare le quattro clip nascoste. Dovresti sentire lo scatto quando le clip si bloccano.
I am doing a battery replacement for a client on this model. The battery has swollen more than I have ever seen before on a Mac! Roughly a ½” higher, once cover removed. Cover was so tight that one screw stripped and had to drill out one screw after trying everything else! Fortunately, I’m an exmechanic/machinist and I own a full size drill press! None of the screw extraction tools sold by ifixit worked or were applicable until I finally got the cover off. Then the small screw pliers from Japan were easier to use than anything else I own. My tools are mostly for larger nuts, bolts and screw extraction. Possibly a mini hammer driver screwdriver would work if one could be made small enough for tiny screws! Ross
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Solleva e rimuovi la grande cover rettangolare della scheda della batteria, sul bordo della scheda logica dalla parte più vicina alla batteria.
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Se la cover non si stacca facilmente, applica una modesta quantità di calore con un iOpener, un asciugacapelli o una pistola termica per ammorbidire l'adesivo sottostante e prova di nuovo.
What is the though behind this step? I have replace my trackpad before, and I did not do this step. At the time, there was no guide. As a result, I’m wondering how this changes/or if it is necessary for the repair process.
It’s necessary in order to disconnect the battery. Always disconnect the battery before making repairs.
I found my one of my fan making some noise, when open the bottom of my Mac I see this piece floating over the fan. Trying to put it back where it goes but don’t seem to stick anymore and move around. Does this piece is really necessary or I can simply remove it or order a new one from you?
It should be pretty easy to reattach. Put a dab of rubber cement or a bit of double-sided tape on top of each of the screws underneath the cover, press the cover down, and close up your MacBook. It should stay put. Don’t use superglue or anything else that will harden over the screw heads and make it impossible to fit a driver in there later.
Do you know if this piece is necessary. I lost mine.
My Macbook doesn’t appear to even have this piece.
This cover is not attached to anything critical underneath, so do not be afraid that you can break anything like pulling anything from the mainboard. Just pull it out. To reattach, I removed the old double side adhesive tape and replaced with fresh one.
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Stacca il nastro adesivo che copre il connettore del cavo dati della scheda della batteria.
The replacement battery did not come with the “tape” in this cable so it was very difficult to reinsert the cable into the zif socket. Now I can’t get the replacement battery to charge.
I have the same issue, My battery is not charging. Did you figure out how to get your battery to charge?
In my case, the original replacement was faulty. iFixIt sent an RMA without hesitation, and I am happy to report that the new one works fine. But also recheck this step and steps 13/14.
J D -
I was able to reinsert the cable easily a number of times with the nice Ifixit angled tweezers as the ziff connectors tiny latch came off! I ended up using a bit of Pliobond 25, contact cement to mke sure the data cable doesn’t move. A future repair will just pull off or at most need an xacato blade knife to slit the rubbery cement. Ross
REALLY important. You need to really pull this back in snug for things to work when you reassemble.
I didn’t seem to have any tape covering it, I just proceeded to the next step
My battery board connecter is broken. Let me know where can I get these cables.?
I recommend to just lift a little the right end (end of the cable side), then keep the socket in place with a spudger while removing this adhesive tape, to avoid any accident like ripping off your socket. With a little care, it is safe and easy to remove completely.
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Usa uno spudger per alzare delicatamente la linguetta di bloccaggio del connettore ZIF del cavo dati della scheda della batteria.
Mein Sicherungsbügel ist abgebrochen, oder zumindest nicht mehr auf dem ZIF-Stecker. Ist dieser Sicherungsbügel sehr wichtig, oder kann ich das Kabel dennoch zurück stecken?
Hallo Fabio, wahrscheinlich wird das Kabel ohne den Bügel nicht mehr halten. Das Zurückstecken geht, aber es bleibt nur sehr fragil drin.
My zif connector was already open. It apparently never got closed during manufacture. Being so tiny this made it difficult to see why there was nothing to pry up with the spudger. Once I put my finger on top of it I realized the flap was already verticle.
I had no issue here but I recommend to use a second spudger to keep the rest of the socket in place while GENTLY lifting the lock. It should lift without effort.
When putting it back, be careful, there might be a little piece of transparent adhesive foil on top of the socket, gently lift it up on the side of the cable. The cable should slide in easily, but do not force it. About 0.5mm of the cable contacts will be VISIBLE on the left side, when the cable is fully it, do not force it more than that.
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Scollega il cavo dati della scheda della batteria facendolo scorrere fuori dal suo zoccolo.
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Tira rimanendo parallelo alla scheda logica, in direzione del cavo.
If this breaks, what’s the risk to the computer?
I tried powering mine on after my zif connector socket broke. It made bad electrical noises. I had water damage at one point and cleaned the unit very well but never replaced the battery. Through excesive, a hot and bad battery, or water damaged weakening the area mine came right off with the tape when i peeled it up. Im working on finding the part and will attempt to solder it back. Of course i still need a battery which ours was swollen. After water damage it worked great for over a year though.
Mine broke and now the Macbook will not power on, this was after a battery replacement, the Macbook powered up afterwards, but after transporting it, it would not power up. I removed the back cover and noticed the battery board cover was missing and the zif gate for the battery data connector was half off.
Same here, I broke the cable which was soldered on the mainboard. I tried to hold it on place with a tape, but I couldn‘t charge my macbook though. Then I tried to solder it and I also failed. I wish I had read the comments before :/
I couldn‘t find the fpc 6 pin connector with 0,5 mm grid. However I managed to connect the flex cable directly on the mother board with 0,3 mm isolation filament! It was tough but I‘m so happy that it works again :)
Would you be able to give a little instruction on how you were able to make this work? I’m super curious and need a solution to the same issue.
Tim -
Surprised by the tolerance of this little connector to my mistake of not flipping up the not very noticeable clamping element on side opposite to where the contact tip is inserted. The contact tip pulled right out without having done that. Saw in a video I should have done that before pulling the contact tip out. Remembered when reinstalling it.
The cable is stuck on the board underneath with adhesive, so it is best to first work it a little from left under (as the picture is oriented) in order to break the adhesive, and then pull it sideways. At all times, I kept the socket safe with a spudger to avoid ripping it off the board. The cable will come out with a little effort. Remember, it is the socket you need to take care of, not the cable (the cable will be thrown away with the old battery).
I had issues in reassembly - the lever for the ZIF socket was missing. I think it came off with the tape. I found the lever, but it was way too small for me to reattach (I couldn't hold it well enough with the tweezers and wasn't sure where the hinge pins went).
The computer did not recognize the battery or recognized it with errors (if I got the cable just right) without the lever.
My solution was to cut a tiny bit of electrical tape and put it on the back of the ribbon cable to make it thicker. This gave it enough traction to stay in the socket and pushed the ribbon onto the contacts.
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Usa un cacciavite Torx T5 per rimuovere la vite a testa piana che fissa il connettore di alimentazione della batteria.
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Usa uno spudger per sollevare delicatamente il connettore dell'alimentazione della batteria, scollegando la batteria stessa.
wondering if i didn’t heed this warning close enough. mac not powering on. only black screen with battery and lightning bolt beneath it. What happens if this connector makes contact?
im in the exact same boat right now.
Was everything okay in your case?
Same here until I realized that I never reconnected the tiny power button/Touch ID connector in step 31! It’s underneath the headphone cable jack from step 30. Mine was hiding under the board and I carefully fished it out with a tweezers.
ajm0824 -
I have the same issue. Followed Instructions to theT. Battery is connected properly as it fully charged however, it will not power on. If i disconnect the battery and connect the power adaptor, it powers on. How did you resolve your issue?
Ian Duff -
Hi, did you manage to fix this? Ive got the same issue sadly.
Same problem, any solution?
Lifting up to about 75 degrees is more that enough and safe, and I did also use some electrical tape to block the contact. When this goes back, there is no socket in place, it is just the screw that keeps it there.
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Usa un cacciavite Torx T3 per rimuovere le due viti da 1,9 mm che fissano la piccola cover di supporto del cavo del trackpad.
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Rimuovi la cover.
T3 doesn’t seem to fit, somehow on my a1707 the driver doesn’t grip and it just slips on the screw.
What am I doing wrong?
I don’t have a T2 to try, what can I do?
I managed to get a holt of a T2, but still no luck: there are a bunch of screws that seem to be T2 but everything I stick inside them just spins around and doesn’t grip :(
T4 worked perfectly
Indeed, a T4 worked for me, also.
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Usa uno spudger per scollegare il cavo del trackpad sollevando il suo connettore dalla scheda logica.
I managed to pry the metal bit with screw holes off first. Whoops.
Make sure the spudger goes under the entire plastic connector, not just the surface metal place, as you risk damaging it like the comment above.
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Applica una modesta quantità di calore al cavo a nastro del trackpad per ammorbidire l'adesivo che lo tiene fissato alla batteria.
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Puoi usare un iOpener, un asciugacapelli o una pistola termica, ma in ogni caso stai attento a non surriscaldare la batteria. Il cavo deve essere caldo, ma non al punto da non poterlo toccare.
I used a hairdrier. Barely needed to hold it there for 20 seconds before I could peel it off.
Just warming it gently made it easy to peel off. Work with care starting from the free end, lift a little, move your grip, etc. Do not lift it all at once, there is a risk of breaking it. It is safe to then move it at 180 degrees angle, completely on the other side.
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Stacca con cautela dalla batteria il cavo del trackpad e spingilo dove non dia fastidio.
In my case the sticky part of the track pad ribbon remained on the battery. So after replacement the trackpad ribbon does not have a sticker to stay on the battery.
Did it work all right without the adhesive there?
That happened to me too! I thought that was what was supposed to happen, until I read your comment. I managed to peel it off the battery, but before I could catch it it rolled up into a tight ball. I got about half of it unrolled and onto the ribbon.
rileybk -
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Usa un cacciavite Torx T5 per rimuovere le 13 viti che fissano il gruppo del trackpad:
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Nove viti da 5,8 mm
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Quattro viti da 4,9 mm
Using a piece of cellophane tape can help hold the trackpad in place with with proper clearance all around.
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Fai ruotare lievemente il display per aprirlo, ma lascia capovolto il MacBook. Il gruppo trackpad dovrebbe separarsi e rimanere di piatto sul display.
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Sfila delicatamente il cavo a nastro del trackpad attraverso la sua feritoia nello chassis.
WARNING - READ THE NEXT STEP NOW OR YOU WILL LOSE THE WASHERS. Please update this with BIG RED LETTERS in the step to indicate what is about to happen, or you’ll skip forward and the washers will fly everywhere. I’m really upset right now.
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Mentre rimuovi il gruppo del trackpad, stai molto attento a non perdere le nove piccole rondelle metalliche sopra gli alloggiamenti delle viti. Non ci vuole davvero molto a farle volare via e a perderle.
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Rimuovi il gruppo del trackpad.
They are not kidding about the jumping washers.
Pro Tip: put your magnetic mat under the trackpad as you slide it out to catch the tiny washers. Alternatively, a magnetic tool bowl, or a terry cloth towel so the lighter guys can’t get far if they fall.
Can I change the battery with out removing the trackpad and logic board?
yes
I did it, you just have you remove enough screws on the board to bend it upwards in order to pull the battery frame that’s it…
my mac is working fine
a m -
yep lost a washer in the process
One of the washer remained stuck on the body, luckily I observed it on the working table when I cleaned the dust from the trackpad casing area. Be VERY careful to not loose these tiny metal pieces!
Without the washers the clicking and moving mouse around doenst work well. very important
Ok, I have all but 1 round washer. I found the rest. Not knowing a source (not even in my extensive parts collection) I will reassemble with the middle one without a washer. If anyone knows of a parts source (other than buying a trackpad assembly) please post here, Thanks.
When you put the trackpad to the side, write a note and put it on top so you don’t forget about the washers when you come to reassemble it.
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Usando un cacciavite Torx T3, rimuovi le due viti da 1,9 mm che fissano la staffa di copertura del connettore della tastiera.
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Rimuovi la staffa.
I am also wondering if it is necessary to remove the logic board. I’m just looking to remove a leaking battery from my macbook pro and safely discard of it while I get a replacement as it is releasing some chemical smell which I assume must NOT be good for one’s health.
As far as I can tell there is a part of the battery that is below the logic board. It’s the thin black stripes next to the battery pcb on either side. You can see it after the logic board is removed on step 50.
Absolutely correct. No way to skip the steps.
Actually, a T4 Torx driver works perfectly.
T3 stripped mine, should have used T4. Screw Extracting Pliers to the rescue.
Hands up everyone that’s never buying an apple product again?
I can confirm that the logic board removal is mandatory, because two battery connection cords are under the logic board and cannot be removed otherwise. Even if that would be possible by cutting them, it is not possible to install the new battery anyway.
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Usa uno spudger per scollegare la tastiera sollevando il suo connettore dalla scheda logica.
Again, make sure you pry from underneath, not only the metal plate. Goes off easily and then it also gets back easily when putting it back.
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Usa un cacciavite Torx T3 per rimuovere le due viti da 1,7 mm che fissano la staffa del connettore del cavo della scheda dello schermo.
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Rimuovi la staffa del connettore del cavo della scheda del display.
This appears to be a T4 not a T3
They are definitely T3 ;) But not all driver kits are created equal. If your T4 works better for you, go with that.
I concur the the T3 didn’t work, T4 worked great.
't4'나사에 전해 맞습니다.
The bracket of the display board connector in my case is glued. So wasnt able to remove it.
I also found a T3 to be too small and T4 too large. I skipped this step and was able to complete the installation by using this connector (still secured by the screws I couldn’t take out) as a hinge to carefully lift the logic board up when needed. I ended up not requiring any of the adhesive remover liquid to remove the battery; just heat from a hairdryer and elbow grease to slide the cards under each cell. Laptop working perfectly again now with this new battery.
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Fai leva con lo spudger per sollevare e disconnettere il cavo flessibile della scheda dello schermo.
When putting it back, I did not notice any “click”, but it was definitely secured in place. Just do not overpress it expecting the “click”. It fits back easily.
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Usa un cacciavite Torx T3 per rimuovere le due viti da 2,4 mm che bloccano la piastrina di copertura dei connettori del Touch ID e del jack cuffie.
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Rimuovi la piastrina.
Again, a T4 worked here, not T3.
't4'나사에 전해 맞습니다.
it’s a T4, not T3. Correct this mistake.
T3 worked for me. MBP 2016.
I only had the bottom screw of this pair to remove. The other is missing,
The top screw of the cover bracket screws into a larger bottom screw. You need to keep that bottom one separate from the others as it is the only one that has a hole for the top screw.
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Scollega il cavo del jack cuffie sollevando il suo connettore dalla scheda logica.
Be very careful with this connector, pry from the bottom of the body, not from the side of the fan, as there is the next connector under it. Just be gentle and patient. Lifting it up to about 100 degrees is safe.
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Scollega il pulsante di accensione e il sensore Touch ID sollevando il relativo connettore dalla scheda logica.
Pry this from the fan side (right side of the body) and be VERY careful, the cable is extremely thin. Lift it up gently under the previous cable. When putting it back, just work gently, it will snap easily into place if positioned correctly. Do not force it back.
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Usa un cacciavite Torx T3 per rimuovere la vite da 1,3 mm che fissa la staffa che copre il connettore del digitizer Touch Bar.
Screw was stipped. I had to cut a flathead slot in the head with a Dremel cutting disk. It then came out OK.
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Con delle pinzette, fai scorrere la staffa verso il bordo laterale del MacBook Pro finché non è libera dalla linguetta dotata di fessura sulla scheda logica.
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Rimuovi la staffa.
When replacing the bracket make sure to loop it through the metal flange so it stays secure.
Lift it gently on the left, 10 degrees, then slide it to the right so that it is freed from the metal strip holding it from under the logic board. It will be obvious how to put it back once you have it out, it has a small cut on the right that has to go first in the metal strip from under the board, then let the left side down.
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Usa un cacciavite Torx T3 per rimuovere le due viti da 1,9 mm che fissano la staffa del connettore del cavo del display del Touch Bar.
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Rimuovi la staffa.
It’s T4, not T3.
Completely stripped the screws on this one - T3 seemed too small, but T4 was too big.. Any way to get replacement screws for this step?
T4 worked better for me than the T3. I would suggest trying both lightly as the T3 might strip the screw for you. be careful here… T3 almost stripped the screw.
T3 from the ifixit kit works fine for me
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Scollega il cavo del display del Touch Bar facendo leva per sollevare il suo connettore dalla scheda logica.
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Usa un cacciavite Torx T3 per rimuovere le quattro viti da 1,3 mm che bloccano le cover del cavo flessibile Thunderbolt:
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Due viti a sinistra
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Altre due viti a destra
Amazingly, the top right screw here was not a T3 at all but a T4.
Top screw head seems to be stripped. Tried various other sizes to no avail.
Top screw stripped for me. Stuck here. Can’t progress.
Noticed the screws of left bracket of the thunderbolt connector didnt tighten into place (after it goes in and tightens it freely rotates). The right one did. Although both are scecured and working.
When reassembling you need to push down snug to make sure the thunderbolt ports work.
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Disconnetti il cavo flessibile Thunderbolt di sinistra sollevandolo dalla scheda logica.
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Fai leva dal lato interno, quello più vicino alla ventola.
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Spingi delicatamente il connettore del cavo flessibile sul lato, in modo che non possa interferire quando la scheda logica sarà rimossa.
Pry on the middle of the connector, not the sides, as it is pretty long. Be careful to position it correctly when putting it back and do not force it back.
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Ripeti l'operazione per staccare il connettore del cavo flessibile Thunderbolt sul lato opposto.
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Piega delicatamente sul lato il connettore del cavo flessibile in modo che ci sia spazio per estrarre la scheda logica senza che questa si impigli.
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Scollega i due connettori degli altoparlanti infilando l'estremità piatta di uno spudger sotto ciascun cavo, in corrispondenza del suo connettore.
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Torci l'attrezzo oppure usalo per far leva per disconnettere entrambi gli altoparlanti.
DO NOT TWIST
The connectors are very delicate, you must use the spudger as a lever to lift the cable.
May be the worst part of the whole procedure
Both of the connector cables were secured with adhesive for me. Had to take my time and work gently to loosen.
Which ended up screwing me when reinstalling. The adhesive made it really tough to slide connector in. I ended up breaking the socket connection to board. No more left speaker!!! Argh!
I broke off the left speaker connector. I wonder if I can solder it back on. Anyone know??
When putting these back, these seem to just be pushed down from above, rather than slotting in from the back
Add me to the Broken Connector club ?. No right speaker for me. Have to think how I can soldier some pins on to fix the connector, or just leave it alone so I don’t make it worse. I should have read thru the instructions and all the comments. Oh well. Shoulda wouldas
By far the most delicate step. I suggest SLOWLY peeling away the adhesive until gone, then CAREFULLY pull the cable away from the connector.
The connector is NOT secured well, and you WILL break it off if you don’t proceed with extreme patience in this step. The cable pulls toward the sky. I held the connector down while I gently lifted the cable.
Very easy to snap back into place if you didn’t muck up the connector while removing it. Just finger press directly from the top and they snap right into place.
I used tweezers to carefully hold the sides of the connector as I slowly worked the cable out. Work under the adhesive by rocking the spudger forward and backward (not twisting). As you work toward the connector, gently pull the spudger out every so often and slide back under the cable till you eventually reach the connector. If you do it this way, have steady hands and patience! A magnifying glass helps too.
I heated a little bit the area and then used a spludger to keep the entire socket + connector in place, then SLOWLY and GENTLY introduced a spludger from the top under the cable to break the adhesive. Once the cable was free from the adhesive (3-5 degrees lift, not more!), then I used a spludger to keep the socket in place (it is a U shape with the bottom near the battery cell, I introduced another spludger under the cable from the opposite direction (from UP of the body if the battery is DOWN) and then pried UP the connector. It does not slide, it just pops out of the socket. Putting it back is very easy, just press it gently down and it will get in the socket with a small click sound.
Same on the other connector.
DO NOT rush the part where the cable is freed from the adhesive, that makes the operation much safer and simpler!
I used Dental floss threaded under and around the speaker cable to cut through the adhesive (really easy) and then one spudger on the circuit board and another to lift the connector out of the socket. Took me a while to workout what to do and the comments above really helped.
I use a blow dryer to heat it up and a thin string/floss to cut the glue. It worked well.
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Stacca l'eventuale nastro adesivo di copertura dello zoccolo del connettore del cavo del microfono.
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Disconnetti il microfono tirando il suo cavo in direzione della ventola finché non è libero dal suo alloggiamento.
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Se possibile, tira sul nastro attaccato al cavo invece che sul cavo stesso, riducendo così il rischio di danneggiamento.
Be VERY careful fishing that circuit/cable back into the socket. I was using regular tweezers that have a sharp edge. It scratched the circuit under the black plastic sleeve (which is thin). That cable kills your internal mic (which Ifixit does sell a replacement for).
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Stacca tutti tre i cavi di antenna sollevandoli uno alla volta dal proprio zoccolo.
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Fai scorrere le pinzette oppure l'estremità piatta dello spudger sotto ciascun cavo finché questo non è vicino allo zoccolo e quindi torci l'attrezzo oppure fai leva per scollegare il cavo stesso.
That is the hardest part. Can’t get one of the three plugs back into position.
Stefan is right. Mine proved impossible and I think I smashed (yes, smashed) the “sockets” they are supposed to “snap” back into (they didn’t for me). For now, they are taped down (and wifi works well), but looking into soldering these if it won’t ruin the connection.
Takes quite a bit of realigntment repositioning to place these back.
These are VERY tricky to reconnect. ADVICE: Push down on these at and angle and then snap them in and slowly rotate them to get them to stick. It took me FOREVER to figure this out.
I had no problem getting these on. The trick is to come from just above the connector and pull back on the cable a little bit at the same time. A fully stretched cable will overshoot the connector so that’s why I pulled it back. I used the black spudger to snap it in place. Everything seems fine. There definitely is a slight snap.
I always worked from the cable towards the connector to pry it up, and then when putting it back, it can seem tricky, but I used to push the connector back a little (towards the cable side) before trying to gently press it down. This seems to align it better to the socket. DO NOT force it, but it needs a little force to hear the “click” if it connects properly.
Correct positioning before pressing down is the key here and it can get very frustrating, so be patient. A microscope /optical zoom would help.
Also, I advise to start with the longest cable, the one you disconnect first, as it is easier to maneuvre, to get a feeling of how the connector is positioned correctly. The move to the shorter cables.
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Rimuovi le dieci viti che fissano il gruppo della scheda logica:
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Due viti Torx T3 da 2,8 mm
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Cinque viti Torx T5 da 2,9 mm
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Una vite Torx T5 da 3,7 mm
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Una vite Torx T8 da 3,9 mm
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Una vite Torx T8 da 3,8 mm
I needed a T9 for the green 3.9 mm “T8” Torx screw
My 3.9mm upper left screw (green) is T8 Torx, while the upper right 3.8mm (blue) screw is a T9 Torx. Note that both are not included in the kit sold by iFixit for this repair @jeffsu
EDIT: actually the T8 is included in the kit description but was not inside the one I got
I had 4 bits in my driver set that I got. One was the T8 that others seemed to have been missing. Maybe they realized this and added to the new kits.
No T8 in my kit. Now I have a half disassembled macbook pro I can’t finish. Sweet.
On my A1707, the Green and Blue are T10 (although T8 and T9 do ‘fit’ but with slack).
Don’t confuse the 3.9 torx8 (green) with the 3.8 torx8 (blue): the green one has a tapped hole for one of the two torx3 of step 29.
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Stacca (ma non rimuovere) dall'adesivo che le tiene sopra le ventole le due strisce antivibrazione in gomma.
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Se necessario, applica una modesta quantità di calore con un iOpener, un asciugacapelli o una pistola termica per ammorbidire l'adesivo e staccare più facilmente le strisce.
Only needs to be lifted from the fan, not from the heat pipe, and gently. If the rubber “end connector” comes out from underneath the heap pipe, do not worry, it can be easily positioned back in place when the logic board is out! Do not spend time trying to push it back now.
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Sollevandola a partire dal lato sinistro, rimuovi la scheda logica.
This connection is VERY easy to forget when you reassemble. If you go to startup your computer and you see the battery icon but the computer will not start with the power button, this is the connection you missed when reassembly. Drove me nuts until I figured that one out!
Absolutely DO NOT lift the board by the cables as the picture might lead you to think!
Also, when lifting up the board, if you feel any resistence, make sure that:
- all the screws were removed!!
- move cables and connectors gently away in the area where you are lifting, they can easily catch the logic board and it feels immediately resisting the lift
After lifting the left side to be able to keep it between your fingers, work toward the middle and then the right, moving the connectors and cables away to free the board for lifting.
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Verifica l'allineamento delle strisce antivibrazione in gomma e riposizionale se necessario.
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Infila il gruppo del cavo di antenna attraverso la fessura tra la scheda logica e il dissipatore di calore, facendo in modo che si allinei correttamente mentre cali dall'alto la scheda logica per rimetterla nella sua posizione.
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Verifica che non restino cavi intrappolati sotto la scheda mentre la riposizioni. Controlla con attenzione tutti i punti evidenziati.
Start from the right, position it down in place and make sure the cables are not under the board, then get the antenna cables from beneath with tweezers, then work to the left, paying attention to get the cables away so the board can go down in place.
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Rimuovi le due viti che bloccano la scheda della batteria:
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Modelli 2016-2017: usa un cacciavite Torx T5 per rimuovere le due viti da 3,5 mm.
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Modelli 2018-2019: usa un cacciavite pentalobe P2 per rimuovere le viti da 3,2 mm.
On my mid 2018 15.3” i9 MBP the battery board screws were PL1
On my mid 2018 15.3 i9 MBP the keyboard cable is farther to the left (as shown at Step 23)! When reinstalling, make sure it is under the battery cable and its connector sticking up between the battery cable and the aluminum battery frame.
So if I’ve understood correctly, almost all the above could have been skipped if apple just made these two screws accessible? Wow, just wow
The screws are accessible, but the ribbon is under the board...
Chi Wang -
P2 bit end broke unscrewing the second of these screws… Now I have a piece of the bit stuck in the screw head and a MacBook completely disassembled…
I bought the battery + "kit" pack here and it doesn't include p2 screws. wow.... it seems like you own people don't even know what tools is needed for this? wow... just wow...
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Per proteggere lo schermo, disponi un pezzo di foglio di alluminio tra lo schermo e la tastiera e lascialo lì mentre continui a lavorare.
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Inoltre, puoi anche aggiungere del nastro di carta per sigillare per quanto possibile l'area sotto il trackpad. In alternativa puoi disporre un panno assorbente direttamente sotto la zona del trackpad per assorbire un eventuale eccesso di antiadesivo.
I didn’t have any solution and was hesitant to simply use an Isopropyl Alcohol solution of any concentration let along subject my electronics to liquid and aluminum foil, so I simply took a card (something between a metrocard and credit card… i used a rewards card) and brute forced the adhesive while dry (making sure to direct the bulk of the force laterally and not down into the screen below and mostly wiggle back and forth instead of straight on). About 10 minutes later with a sore hand it worked just fine and avoided steps 52-62. (You may want to try the string method detailed in step 62 if stubborn and after started with card.
The alu foil and the paint tape make it much safer, use them!
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Ora che il tuo MacBook Pro è preparato l'intervento, è ora che ti prepari tu stesso.
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Quando maneggi e applichi l'antiadesivo, indossa occhiali protettivi (sono inclusi nel kit).
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Non portare lenti a contatto senza occhiali protettivi.
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Nel kit sono compresi anche i guanti protettivi. Se temi l'irritazione della pelle, comincia a indossarli già ora.
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Applica poche gocce di antiadesivo sotto le due celle di destra della batteria, iniziando dal bordo più vicino alla ventola.
The bottle may (will!) squirt liquid. I used a bit of absorbant paper around the tip while turning the bottle upside down and putting the tip where it needs to go. Be especially careful not to drip liquid onto the speakers.
For this type of work I always have a roll of thick toilet paper nearby: its leaves are smaller than those of kitchen paper.
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Aggiungi qualche altra goccia di antiadesivo tra le due celle di destra della batteria, in modo che possa scorrere sotto la cella inferiore.
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Prima di procedere con il passo successivo, lascia passare un paio di minuti per consentire al solvente di penetrare ed indebolire la colla della batteria.
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Dopo un paio di minuti, inserisci l'angolo di una scheda di plastica sotto la batteria, iniziando dal bordo inferiore della cella in basso a destra.
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Muovi la scheda da un lato all'altro e falla scorrere interamente sotto entrambe le celle della batteria.
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Solleva le celle per staccare completamente la colla, ma non cercare di rimuoverle già ora dal MacBook.
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Lascia temporaneamente la scheda di plastica sotto le celle per impedire che l'adesivo possa incollarsi nuovamente mentre procedi con il passo successivo.
I had a great deal of difficulty loosening the batteries. The solvent seemed to have little effect on the adhesive strips. Despite efforts, I deformed the batteries trying to get them free.
Took me three applications of adhesive remover. Think it really is about wiggling though.
It took me about 10 minutes or so to remove all battery modules. I used the adhesive remover as per the guide and also used the card with the corner doing most of the penetration instead of the blunt end. I also would gently wiggle the battery up and down while I applied more adhesive remover to allow it a better chance of getting underneath. BTW, my adhesive strips ran left to right and not back to front on the outer batteries, so I would think it would be more ideal to put the adhesive remover down the left and right sides of the outer batteries. The inner batteries (under trackpad) adhesive strips ran front to back. Keep this in mind when using the remover to loosen them up.
Once one of the packs is loose, stick a leaf of toilet paper under it, so that it cannot stick to the body again, while you are working on the other packs.
See my comment in Step 63. Might save you time and trouble. Putty knife to remove batteries, then hot dryer to get black strips off followed by de-solv-it (or the Ifix-it remover) to get off the adhesive junk.
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Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.
lamajr - Replica
@mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!
Jeff Suovanen -
Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.
Dan -
This did not work when running High Sierra.
Kyle B - Replica
Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.
Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>
Cool_Breeze - Replica
I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.
Brian - Replica
Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(
Nursat b - Replica
BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.
Jason Sherron - Replica
This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?
Patrick Machacek - Replica
Not able to do that with damaged screen
richardjgreen - Replica
If you have a damaged screen you can still use a converter from thunderbolt (USB 3) to HDMI and plug your Macbook Pro to your TV as monitor display. Just make sure to chose the right Source (HDMI IN) in your TV. I did it and to make it work I unplug and plug again in my Macbook and so I could disable the Auto boot
Roberto Sanchez Bustos -
Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian
Adrian Vizik - Replica
Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.
Roberto Enrieu - Replica
running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted
result: `AutoBoot %00`
Marek Polák - Replica
Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's:
nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot'
to display the current state, the default istrue
- and then to change it,sudo nvram auto-boot=false
which turns it off.Ed Mechem -
This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.
Grant Ormsby - Replica
It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.
tommy404 - Replica
I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.
hatuxka - Replica
BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!
I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.
Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.
bcardanha - Replica
When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”
johann beda - Replica
When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a
pwd
(print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.Ed Mechem -
I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.
I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.
I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.
Mircea Comanici - Replica
After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.
Ed Mease - Replica
This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.
G Sena - Replica