Sostituzione batteria MacBook Pro 15" Touch Bar fine 2016

This did not work when running High Sierra.

Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.

Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>

I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.

Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(

BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.

This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?

Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian

Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.

This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.

It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.

I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.

BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!

I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.

Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.

I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.

I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.

I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.

After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.

This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.

These screws are TINY and different lengths. I highly recommend purchasing the recommended magnetic project mat.

So this need to replace each and every screw in its exact former position explains exactly the excruciating difficulty I am having in getting the set of four shorter screws screws back in after everything else having gone successfully. Wanna scream at the top of my lungs. Maybe this point needed to be made in all ALL CAPS and BOLD for me. So can I still just start over trying each screw in each hole or have I messed up the threads in trying to screw in screws mismatched to their holes?

The front screws are at a slight angle, pay attention when putting them back!

I did not have the magnetic project mat, but instead I stuck loops of blue painter's tape on the table, wrote the step number on them in sharpie, and stuck the screws/covers for the corresponding step on them.

If the battery you are replacing is swollen and you do not know it is - swollen, Watch out![br]

You may strip threads on some of the screws. Rotate the unscrewing as in a clockwise - counterclockwise manner if some of them start to feel tight.

You can probably just skip to step 6 if battery is swollen. These steps will likely be taken care of for you.

This step drew blood. Darn you Apple!

I found it easier to insert a screwdriver through the hole (not too far down), and use that to pull sideways, as it was hard to get a strong grip with my fingers.

If you have a black stick, or a nylon probe tool, you can insert it at the back at the point closest to the screw holes, and use that to push the lower case forward. I’ve seen this help me quite a few times, and it makes it quite easier.

I like adrianbrown's suggestion. Spot on!

Its difficult if the side catches arent released properly, check them again if it seems too much.

I snapped one of the spring loaded logic board grounding pins. Take your time. Leverage from the back in order to push it out versus pulling on it.

Take the opening pick and stick the edge down behind the hinge all the way to one side, so it is perpendicular to the case, and give it a twist. That end should pop free. Do the same on the other side and there you go.

Thanks Indawg Wetrust, Made it very easy!

They, iFixit, are not kidding. Quite a bit of force needed.

This step requires a lot of force to slide the back cover away. Make sure you get a good grip of the mac body and of the back panel.

I am doing a battery replacement for a client on this model. The battery has swollen more than I have ever seen before on a Mac! Roughly a ½” higher, once cover removed. Cover was so tight that one screw stripped and had to drill out one screw after trying everything else! Fortunately, I’m an exmechanic/machinist and I own a full size drill press! None of the screw extraction tools sold by ifixit worked or were applicable until I finally got the cover off. Then the small screw pliers from Japan were easier to use than anything else I own. My tools are mostly for larger nuts, bolts and screw extraction. Possibly a mini hammer driver screwdriver would work if one could be made small enough for tiny screws! Ross

Do you know if this piece is necessary. I lost mine.

My Macbook doesn’t appear to even have this piece.

This cover is not attached to anything critical underneath, so do not be afraid that you can break anything like pulling anything from the mainboard. Just pull it out. To reattach, I removed the old double side adhesive tape and replaced with fresh one.

Wow, mine peeled up from the board. Now I have some board level soldering. Any part number on the connector for this cable on the board.

I second that; does anybody know where this battery board data cable connector can be purchased?

Note that the tape covering that comes on the OEM battery is not included in the battery sent from iFixIt. I removed it from the old and attached it to the new, but it does not “re-stick” very well, so it’s rather difficult to re-insert. Be careful, the ribbon is fragile.

I was able to reinsert the cable easily a number of times with the nice Ifixit angled tweezers as the ziff connectors tiny latch came off! I ended up using a bit of Pliobond 25, contact cement to mke sure the data cable doesn’t move. A future repair will just pull off or at most need an xacato blade knife to slit the rubbery cement. Ross

REALLY important. You need to really pull this back in snug for things to work when you reassemble.

I didn’t seem to have any tape covering it, I just proceeded to the next step

My battery board connecter is broken. Let me know where can I get these cables.?

I recommend to just lift a little the right end (end of the cable side), then keep the socket in place with a spudger while removing this adhesive tape, to avoid any accident like ripping off your socket. With a little care, it is safe and easy to remove completely.

Sie sollten in der Lage sein, das Kabel wieder anzuschließen und mit einem guten Klebeband abzudichten.

My zif connector was already open. It apparently never got closed during manufacture. Being so tiny this made it difficult to see why there was nothing to pry up with the spudger. Once I put my finger on top of it I realized the flap was already verticle.

lock flap broke when I was about to close it, is there any way to fix it? The computer can't find the battery

I had no issue here but I recommend to use a second spudger to keep the rest of the socket in place while GENTLY lifting the lock. It should lift without effort.

When putting it back, be careful, there might be a little piece of transparent adhesive foil on top of the socket, gently lift it up on the side of the cable. The cable should slide in easily, but do not force it. About 0.5mm of the cable contacts will be VISIBLE on the left side, when the cable is fully it, do not force it more than that.

If this breaks, what’s the risk to the computer?

I tried powering mine on after my zif connector socket broke. It made bad electrical noises. I had water damage at one point and cleaned the unit very well but never replaced the battery. Through excesive, a hot and bad battery, or water damaged weakening the area mine came right off with the tape when i peeled it up. Im working on finding the part and will attempt to solder it back. Of course i still need a battery which ours was swollen. After water damage it worked great for over a year though.

Mine broke and now the Macbook will not power on, this was after a battery replacement, the Macbook powered up afterwards, but after transporting it, it would not power up. I removed the back cover and noticed the battery board cover was missing and the zif gate for the battery data connector was half off.

Same here, I broke the cable which was soldered on the mainboard. I tried to hold it on place with a tape, but I couldn‘t charge my macbook though. Then I tried to solder it and I also failed. I wish I had read the comments before :/

Anybody know where this connected can be purchased? Mine completely snapped to pieces the moment I touched it.

Surprised by the tolerance of this little connector to my mistake of not flipping up the not very noticeable clamping element on side opposite to where the contact tip is inserted. The contact tip pulled right out without having done that. Saw in a video I should have done that before pulling the contact tip out. Remembered when reinstalling it.

The cable is stuck on the board underneath with adhesive, so it is best to first work it a little from left under (as the picture is oriented) in order to break the adhesive, and then pull it sideways. At all times, I kept the socket safe with a spudger to avoid ripping it off the board. The cable will come out with a little effort. Remember, it is the socket you need to take care of, not the cable (the cable will be thrown away with the old battery).

I had issues in reassembly - the lever for the ZIF socket was missing. I think it came off with the tape. I found the lever, but it was way too small for me to reattach (I couldn't hold it well enough with the tweezers and wasn't sure where the hinge pins went).

The computer did not recognize the battery or recognized it with errors (if I got the cable just right) without the lever.

My solution was to cut a tiny bit of electrical tape and put it on the back of the ribbon cable to make it thicker. This gave it enough traction to stay in the socket and pushed the ribbon onto the contacts.

It was actually T6 in my case

I tossed a piece of tape on the connector just to be safe.

Same problem, any solution?

Lifting up to about 75 degrees is more that enough and safe, and I did also use some electrical tape to block the contact. When this goes back, there is no socket in place, it is just the screw that keeps it there.

T3 doesn’t seem to fit, somehow on my a1707 the driver doesn’t grip and it just slips on the screw.

What am I doing wrong?

I don’t have a T2 to try, what can I do?

I managed to get a holt of a T2, but still no luck: there are a bunch of screws that seem to be T2 but everything I stick inside them just spins around and doesn’t grip :(

T4 worked perfectly

Indeed, a T4 worked for me, also.

I managed to pry the metal bit with screw holes off first. Whoops.

Make sure the spudger goes under the entire plastic connector, not just the surface metal place, as you risk damaging it like the comment above.

I used a hairdrier. Barely needed to hold it there for 20 seconds before I could peel it off.

This cable can be carefully peeled off the battery by hand by those deft of hand. Gradually and inching along its length.

Just warming it gently made it easy to peel off. Work with care starting from the free end, lift a little, move your grip, etc. Do not lift it all at once, there is a risk of breaking it. It is safe to then move it at 180 degrees angle, completely on the other side.

thin ifixit pick opener sliding gently/slowly underneath ribbon cable towards the front edge of mbp did the trick for me. no need for heat.

Using a piece of cellophane tape can help hold the trackpad in place with with proper clearance all around.

WARNING - READ THE NEXT STEP NOW OR YOU WILL LOSE THE WASHERS. Please update this with BIG RED LETTERS in the step to indicate what is about to happen, or you’ll skip forward and the washers will fly everywhere. I’m really upset right now.

I would add step 21 to step 20. The warning about potentially losing the washers should be part of this step, not a separate one.

this step is BS, I didn’t remove the touch bar, you just need to remove enough screws on the upper board to be able to pull the battery plastic frame and put it gain…

what a loss of time!

They are not kidding about the jumping washers.

Pro Tip: put your magnetic mat under the trackpad as you slide it out to catch the tiny washers. Alternatively, a magnetic tool bowl, or a terry cloth towel so the lighter guys can’t get far if they fall.

yep lost a washer in the process

My trackpad underside was dusty. Without thinking, I tried to blow off some of the dust. One washer and one double washer were finally found thanks to a bright flashlight and the contrasting color of the wood floor.

One of the washer remained stuck on the body, luckily I observed it on the working table when I cleaned the dust from the trackpad casing area. Be VERY careful to not loose these tiny metal pieces!

Without the washers the clicking and moving mouse around doenst work well. very important

Ok, I have all but 1 round washer. I found the rest. Not knowing a source (not even in my extensive parts collection) I will reassemble with the middle one without a washer. If anyone knows of a parts source (other than buying a trackpad assembly) please post here, Thanks.

When you put the trackpad to the side, write a note and put it on top so you don’t forget about the washers when you come to reassemble it.

Followed the advice on disassembly but did not on re-assembly. Lost one of the larger ones.[br]

Recommend changing text to RED (They will fly off and get lost with very little provocation.) [br]

*also agree with Robert Such but I was in a bit of a hurry to finish. Take your time.

I’m just curious - why did the entire logic board have to come out in order the replace the battery? It seems like after the trackpad you could skip to battery removal. Is it to protect the board? Thanks!

I am also wondering if it is necessary to remove the logic board. I’m just looking to remove a leaking battery from my macbook pro and safely discard of it while I get a replacement as it is releasing some chemical smell which I assume must NOT be good for one’s health.

Sehr geehrtes IFIXIT Team, bitte um Info warum für den Ausbau des Akkus auch das Bord ausgebaut werden muss? Danke für Ihre Antwort!

Actually, a T4 Torx driver works perfectly.

T3 stripped mine, should have used T4. Screw Extracting Pliers to the rescue.

Hands up everyone that’s never buying an apple product again?

I can confirm that the logic board removal is mandatory, because two battery connection cords are under the logic board and cannot be removed otherwise. Even if that would be possible by cutting them, it is not possible to install the new battery anyway.

Again, make sure you pry from underneath, not only the metal plate. Goes off easily and then it also gets back easily when putting it back.

I concur the the T3 didn’t work, T4 worked great.

't4'나사에 전해 맞습니다.

The bracket of the display board connector in my case is glued. So wasnt able to remove it.

I also found a T3 to be too small and T4 too large. I skipped this step and was able to complete the installation by using this connector (still secured by the screws I couldn’t take out) as a hinge to carefully lift the logic board up when needed. I ended up not requiring any of the adhesive remover liquid to remove the battery; just heat from a hairdryer and elbow grease to slide the cards under each cell. Laptop working perfectly again now with this new battery.

When putting it back, I did not notice any “click”, but it was definitely secured in place. Just do not overpress it expecting the “click”. It fits back easily.

Again, a T4 worked here, not T3.

't4'나사에 전해 맞습니다.

it’s a T4, not T3. Correct this mistake.

T3 worked for me. MBP 2016.

I only had the bottom screw of this pair to remove. The other is missing,

The top screw of the cover bracket screws into a larger bottom screw. You need to keep that bottom one separate from the others as it is the only one that has a hole for the top screw.

Be very careful with this connector, pry from the bottom of the body, not from the side of the fan, as there is the next connector under it. Just be gentle and patient. Lifting it up to about 100 degrees is safe.

Pry this from the fan side (right side of the body) and be VERY careful, the cable is extremely thin. Lift it up gently under the previous cable. When putting it back, just work gently, it will snap easily into place if positioned correctly. Do not force it back.

Screw was stipped. I had to cut a flathead slot in the head with a Dremel cutting disk. It then came out OK.

When replacing the bracket make sure to loop it through the metal flange so it stays secure.

Lift it gently on the left, 10 degrees, then slide it to the right so that it is freed from the metal strip holding it from under the logic board. It will be obvious how to put it back once you have it out, it has a small cut on the right that has to go first in the metal strip from under the board, then let the left side down.

It’s T4, not T3.

Completely stripped the screws on this one - T3 seemed too small, but T4 was too big.. Any way to get replacement screws for this step?

T4 worked better for me than the T3. I would suggest trying both lightly as the T3 might strip the screw for you. be careful here… T3 almost stripped the screw.

T3 from the kit I bought here works fine for all the steps where they call for T3. So far!

T3 from the ifixit kit works fine for me

100 degrees lift is safe

Amazingly, the top right screw here was not a T3 at all but a T4.

Top screw head seems to be stripped. Tried various other sizes to no avail.

Top screw stripped for me. Stuck here. Can’t progress.

Noticed the screws of left bracket of the thunderbolt connector didnt tighten into place (after it goes in and tightens it freely rotates). The right one did. Although both are scecured and working.

When reassembling you need to push down snug to make sure the thunderbolt ports work.

I stripped the same screw here too, but I was able to very gently fold the connector up (being extremely careful to not damage the connector or the board

Pry on the middle of the connector, not the sides, as it is pretty long. Be careful to position it correctly when putting it back and do not force it back.

One speaker had some adhesive. Careful prying!

BE VERY CAREFULL WITH THE SMALLER SPEAKER CONNECTOR!

The instructions say “TWIST”… DO NOT &&^&^$^ TWIST IT!!!

I broke the connector off the PCB.. now the left speaker is gone forever!

DO NOT TWIST

The connectors are very delicate, you must use the spudger as a lever to lift the cable.

May be the worst part of the whole procedure

I broke off the left speaker connector. I wonder if I can solder it back on. Anyone know??

When putting these back, these seem to just be pushed down from above, rather than slotting in from the back

Add me to the Broken Connector club ?. No right speaker for me. Have to think how I can soldier some pins on to fix the connector, or just leave it alone so I don’t make it worse. I should have read thru the instructions and all the comments. Oh well. Shoulda wouldas

By far the most delicate step. I suggest SLOWLY peeling away the adhesive until gone, then CAREFULLY pull the cable away from the connector.

The connector is NOT secured well, and you WILL break it off if you don’t proceed with extreme patience in this step. The cable pulls toward the sky. I held the connector down while I gently lifted the cable.

Very easy to snap back into place if you didn’t muck up the connector while removing it. Just finger press directly from the top and they snap right into place.

I used tweezers to carefully hold the sides of the connector as I slowly worked the cable out. Work under the adhesive by rocking the spudger forward and backward (not twisting). As you work toward the connector, gently pull the spudger out every so often and slide back under the cable till you eventually reach the connector. If you do it this way, have steady hands and patience! A magnifying glass helps too.

I heated a little bit the area and then used a spludger to keep the entire socket + connector in place, then SLOWLY and GENTLY introduced a spludger from the top under the cable to break the adhesive. Once the cable was free from the adhesive (3-5 degrees lift, not more!), then I used a spludger to keep the socket in place (it is a U shape with the bottom near the battery cell, I introduced another spludger under the cable from the opposite direction (from UP of the body if the battery is DOWN) and then pried UP the connector. It does not slide, it just pops out of the socket. Putting it back is very easy, just press it gently down and it will get in the socket with a small click sound.

Same on the other connector.

DO NOT rush the part where the cable is freed from the adhesive, that makes the operation much safer and simpler!

You update your guide_:

_{Use the hairdryer to loosen the adhesive for both of the speaker connections, as this will prevent undue stress of the connector and prevent it from snapping the cable or breaking the connector.}

I used Dental floss threaded under and around the speaker cable to cut through the adhesive (really easy) and then one spudger on the circuit board and another to lift the connector out of the socket. Took me a while to workout what to do and the comments above really helped.

哈哈哈哈，我直接把整个底座给撬下来了，这些两个扬声器彻底报废，哈哈哈哈

I use a blow dryer to heat it up and a thin string/floss to cut the glue. It worked well.

Again I kept the entire socket in place while peeling up.

Be VERY careful fishing that circuit/cable back into the socket. I was using regular tweezers that have a sharp edge. It scratched the circuit under the black plastic sleeve (which is thin). That cable kills your internal mic (which Ifixit does sell a replacement for).

might be easier to do 45 first if the cables are getting too much in the way of the screw

That is the hardest part. Can’t get one of the three plugs back into position.

Stefan is right. Mine proved impossible and I think I smashed (yes, smashed) the “sockets” they are supposed to “snap” back into (they didn’t for me). For now, they are taped down (and wifi works well), but looking into soldering these if it won’t ruin the connection.

Use microscope and fine tweezers.

Do not force them. they snap on with little effort when they are aligned just right. Be patient.

Takes quite a bit of realigntment repositioning to place these back.

These are VERY tricky to reconnect. ADVICE: Push down on these at and angle and then snap them in and slowly rotate them to get them to stick. It took me FOREVER to figure this out.

I had no problem getting these on. The trick is to come from just above the connector and pull back on the cable a little bit at the same time. A fully stretched cable will overshoot the connector so that’s why I pulled it back. I used the black spudger to snap it in place. Everything seems fine. There definitely is a slight snap.

I always worked from the cable towards the connector to pry it up, and then when putting it back, it can seem tricky, but I used to push the connector back a little (towards the cable side) before trying to gently press it down. This seems to align it better to the socket. DO NOT force it, but it needs a little force to hear the “click” if it connects properly.

Correct positioning before pressing down is the key here and it can get very frustrating, so be patient. A microscope /optical zoom would help.

Also, I advise to start with the longest cable, the one you disconnect first, as it is easier to maneuvre, to get a feeling of how the connector is positioned correctly. The move to the shorter cables.

I needed a T9 for the green 3.9 mm “T8” Torx screw

I had 4 bits in my driver set that I got. One was the T8 that others seemed to have been missing. Maybe they realized this and added to the new kits.

No T8 in my kit. Now I have a half disassembled macbook pro I can’t finish. Sweet.

On my A1707, the Green and Blue are T10 (although T8 and T9 do ‘fit’ but with slack).

Don’t confuse the 3.9 torx8 (green) with the 3.8 torx8 (blue): the green one has a tapped hole for one of the two torx3 of step 29.

I have now discovered that an apple technician cross threaded one of the 2.9mm screws and lost another screw earlier -_-.

Are these T8 screws security versions? If not, why does iFixit include a TR8 security driver in the kit?

Only needs to be lifted from the fan, not from the heat pipe, and gently. If the rubber “end connector” comes out from underneath the heap pipe, do not worry, it can be easily positioned back in place when the logic board is out! Do not spend time trying to push it back now.

The damping strips came off completely. May try electricians tape.

A headcount for all the connectors that need to be exposed when reassembling would be really useful here. I count 15. If you have less you’ve missed something.

This connection is VERY easy to forget when you reassemble. If you go to startup your computer and you see the battery icon but the computer will not start with the power button, this is the connection you missed when reassembly. Drove me nuts until I figured that one out!

Absolutely DO NOT lift the board by the cables as the picture might lead you to think!

Also, when lifting up the board, if you feel any resistence, make sure that:

- all the screws were removed!!

- move cables and connectors gently away in the area where you are lifting, they can easily catch the logic board and it feels immediately resisting the lift

After lifting the left side to be able to keep it between your fingers, work toward the middle and then the right, moving the connectors and cables away to free the board for lifting.

Start from the right, position it down in place and make sure the cables are not under the board, then get the antenna cables from beneath with tweezers, then work to the left, paying attention to get the cables away so the board can go down in place.

On my mid 2018 15.3” i9 MBP the battery board screws were PL1

On my mid 2018 15.3 i9 MBP the keyboard cable is farther to the left (as shown at Step 23)! When reinstalling, make sure it is under the battery cable and its connector sticking up between the battery cable and the aluminum battery frame.

P2 bit end broke unscrewing the second of these screws… Now I have a piece of the bit stuck in the screw head and a MacBook completely disassembled…

I bought the battery + "kit" pack here and it doesn't include p2 screws. wow.... it seems like you own people don't even know what tools is needed for this? wow... just wow...

I didn’t have any solution and was hesitant to simply use an Isopropyl Alcohol solution of any concentration let along subject my electronics to liquid and aluminum foil, so I simply took a card (something between a metrocard and credit card… i used a rewards card) and brute forced the adhesive while dry (making sure to direct the bulk of the force laterally and not down into the screen below and mostly wiggle back and forth instead of straight on). About 10 minutes later with a sore hand it worked just fine and avoided steps 52-62. (You may want to try the string method detailed in step 62 if stubborn and after started with card.

The alu foil and the paint tape make it much safer, use them!

Eignet sch auch Isopropyl-Alkohol 99,9%?

The bottle may (will!) squirt liquid. I used a bit of absorbant paper around the tip while turning the bottle upside down and putting the tip where it needs to go. Be especially careful not to drip liquid onto the speakers.

For this type of work I always have a roll of thick toilet paper nearby: its leaves are smaller than those of kitchen paper.

I had a great deal of difficulty loosening the batteries. The solvent seemed to have little effect on the adhesive strips. Despite efforts, I deformed the batteries trying to get them free.

I also had a great deal of difficulty. I had to apply the adhesive remover 5 times before I could wiggle the card underneath the first battery sections. And it left the adhesive on the computer case; it did not remove the adhesive along with the battery sections.

Took me three applications of adhesive remover. Think it really is about wiggling though.

It took me about 10 minutes or so to remove all battery modules. I used the adhesive remover as per the guide and also used the card with the corner doing most of the penetration instead of the blunt end. I also would gently wiggle the battery up and down while I applied more adhesive remover to allow it a better chance of getting underneath. BTW, my adhesive strips ran left to right and not back to front on the outer batteries, so I would think it would be more ideal to put the adhesive remover down the left and right sides of the outer batteries. The inner batteries (under trackpad) adhesive strips ran front to back. Keep this in mind when using the remover to loosen them up.

Once one of the packs is loose, stick a leaf of toilet paper under it, so that it cannot stick to the body again, while you are working on the other packs.

One YouTuber uses a fairly short narrow and small thin-bladed and very essentially flexible cake spatula to push in under the battery lobes never sweeping sideways. No chemicals except for 99% propanol to remove the adhesive residue.

See my comment in Step 63. Might save you time and trouble. Putty knife to remove batteries, then hot dryer to get black strips off followed by de-solv-it (or the Ifix-it remover) to get off the adhesive junk.