While Hamdi's response is very useful, the PS5 is only rated to draw >2A at full power (201W). Most residential circuits have 15A breakers, however many home builders skimp on wiring and run one large circuit for multiple rooms, which is OK for code but considered bad practice. When the breaker pops, see what other devices lose power and check their wattage to get the amperage (W / V = A). If possible, try to locate a separate circuit for some appliances or devices, or call an electrician to re-wire the room so it has it's own circuit for wall outlets. Another possibility is that the breakers are simply getting worn out. Old breakers trip easier than their rating, eventually they will get to a point where they cannot be reset. Most breakers operate as thermal switches. There is a bimetallic strip which the current flows through, but if you try to pull more amperage than the rating, the metal will get hot and deform, allowing the spring-loaded switch to slam to the OFF position. Over time the constant...

I wasn’t able to locate the service manual for this. I did find a site selling parts with pictures. From there, I could see that the hammer weights actually have imprinting on them. Inspect the ones you need to replace for similar markings. White key hammers: WA, WB, WC, WD Black key hammers BA, BB, BC, BD If yours lack imprints, there are subtle differences in the metal shapes that can be used as a guide. https://syntaur.com/keyboard.php?keyboar...

First, ensure your paper stock is compatible with the printer. If it is, then try to determine where it is jamming. Most often dirty or worn rollers and/or fuser units are the culprit.

Do you see the part on this diagram? If so, this site should help identify it and may offer it for sale It appears that that is part of the magazine assembly. https://www.ereplacementparts.com/ryobi-p320-cordless-brad-nailer-parts-c-7931_8022_289668.html

If you are sure the chips are not getting too hot, then the issue could be a bad thermal sensor. Now if you are judging it’s “heat” from outside the unit, it may actually be having an issue. A lot of PS4’s have had fans that fail or improper thermal paste. The fan is, by far, the cheapest thing to replace. The thermal sensors are built into the motherboard. About Booters: Booters find the WAN IP address of your network and flood it with garbage data. Essentially, it is a Denial of Service attack. This alone does not change anything inside your PS4, so the current issue is unrelated and the timing coincidental. To protect your IP address, you could use a VPN service. Once they have your real-world IP, there is not much you can do to stop the DoS attack. If you have a dynamic IP address with your ISP, you could try leaving your modem offline for several hours to see if it gets a different IP address when powered back on. Also, you can ask your ISP to assign a new IP address, just explain what is happening.

The TI 84 has battery-backed storage. If you replaced the backup battery, or it has died, you may not have any data to recover. You can’t chip-swap it, since that would also lose the battery power. It seems that, to get inside the device, you’d end up disconnecting all batteries. Here is a video that may help revive it, but would still lose any data on it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jxHstNp9...

Both graphical processing units (GPU) are on the motherboard. One is part of the Intel Chipset and is not hardware accelerated. The more powerful GPU is usually an AMD or NVidia GPU. When you had them replaced previously, the mainboard was likely replaced to do so. These units have a poor design where the GPU and CPU share a thermal pipe. If the CPU is running hot at the same time as the GPU, the GPU does not cool adequately and it’s Ball Grid Array (BGA) solder can melt. This sounds like what you have experienced. The only real solution to replace the GPU is to replace the mainboard or send it to a repair technician that can re-flow the BGA chip (not guaranteed to work, and may recur later). If you attempt this yourself, you will want the correct tool. Don’t stick it in an oven, get a BGA reflow. station

The type of solder is not very important. Lead-free solder can be harder to work with and requires a higher temp. Leaded solder is not environmentally friendly, but is much easier to work with. To start with in soldering, you want to remove the old solder and apply flux before re-tinning and soldering the part. This video series is quite old, but is really the best tutorial series I have ever found for soldering. I know it is a bit boring, but it is well laid out. They don’t go into lead-free solder, as it was a new concept when these videos were made. Lead-free has a different luster to it and a bit higher temps required to melt, so a ‘Good’ joint with lead free will not be as shiny as with leaded solder and this is normal. PACE - Basic Soldering Lesson 1 - "Solder & Flux" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIT4ra6M... My personal favorite solder: Kester 24-6337-0010 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 .020

It comes down to a couple of determining factors. If you need the data loaded into RAM swiftly, you will want it on the SSD. If the item is read occasionally, or only at start-up (example Excel document when opened loads to RAM and works in RAM until saved. It does create backups in the OS drive, though) then the platter drive is best. If you are a gamer, you could benefit from storing your most RAM intensive games on the SSD, as well. If you are a creative, things like Adobe Scratch Disk files would be best on the SSD. IMHO: SSD: OS, Apps, Games, Scratch Files (Virtual memory files) for some apps HDD: Long-term storage, items that are small, backups, archives, etc.

Related post may help you Won't power up and only 1 diagnostic LED