Isaac

I was hoping someone might help me find a troubleshooting breadcrumb to follow. I don’t want to have to take it entirely...

If you are talking about the gear-looking part on the drive shaft that meets with the bottom of the blade assembly, it is called a coupler or coupling. I haven't found one for Ninja, but there are a lot for kitchen aid and waring around. I would wonder if one of these is 'compatible'. Example: https://www.ereplacementparts.com/coupli...-p-2142318.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwrKr8BRB_EiwA7... Update (10/17/2020): Similar question: The flexable rubber coupler has broken.. In that, this guide is referenced which includes a rebuild of the planetary gear assembly. I see now this is what you really needed https://sites.google.com/site/dgeake51/h...-blender-repair

Here is a list of possible causes: https://dannysengineportal.com/starter-problems-hear-try-start-car/ I would start with confirming the battery is good and well connected. Clean the contacts, etc. Mostly focus on the starter, since you should hear it trying to turn the engine over whether the spark plugs are setup correctly or not.

Most often you will find 3/4 pins on the pad. +/- are the outside 2 pins and the monitoring lines is/are the center. You would connect your MM to the outer 2 pins. If you get a negative value, it just means your leads are reversed. Note: There isn’t really a risk to trial and error here, the MM is not going to damage the battery if you pick the wrong lead because it will not be a complete circuit until you have found the +/- pins Edit: Found a YouTube video, but it is sort of hard to see the work-piece. It should be relatively the same process for any LiOn battery, just the connector might be different: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GgrIUUR2...

Usually the switches are the Point of Failure on mice. The switches are made of a small box with a small flange of brass/copper that gets flexed by a plastic plunger when you press the button. Over time, the flange will wear out. The simplest way is to replace the switch. Logitech has been using Omron brand switches for decades, so they are quite easy to source. These are the ones used in every logitech mouse I have ever opened, but they may use others. https://www.amazon.com/D2FC-F-7N-Switch-Microswitch-Switches-Logitech/dp/B00HPL57JQ The coding painted on the side can tell you the exact model. What could differ between models? The pressure needed to click The travel distance of the click The rebound, or bounce back after the click. This can all be found in datasheets for the part.

FYI, while used as common venacular, a true RJ45 jack is different from the 8P8C jack used in Ethernet . A true RJ45 has a tab on it that prevents insertion into an Ethernet jack and is used for telecom purposes. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Modular_co... Just be careful that the RJ45 is actually an 8P8C Modular connector without the security tab. Some Ethernet ports are sold as RJ45 because of this confusion, but they will not work in telecom. Also, the ones designed for telecom will not have the same specs as Ethernet and may not work correctly. (Like using a CAT4 jack with CAT6, it just allows too much interference) All that aside, you might be able to find a decent replacement from a component supplier, such as Mouser: https://www.mouser.com/Connectors/Modula...-Connectors-Ethernet-Connectors/_/N-wos3?P=1yzp0ta NOTE: Images on Mouser are generic, look at the datasheet for more accurate information. You will want to get some good measurements (usually in mm) of the spacing of pins, the height, depth,...

It could be a fan issue, an issue with the fan controller on the board, an issue with the temperature sensors, or even a strange issue with software. On the software side, I have only ever seen that with video cards that let you control the fan speed from the driver. EDIT: Removing OpenHardwareMonitor suggestion. Saw in second video you have a monitor going.

It can depend. Usually, a reputable repair shop will tell you an item is Beyond Economical Repair (BER) if the cost of their repair is going to exceed the cost of replacement. Estimating the cost is hard because there are multiple things that could have caused the failure, and each part could have a drastically different price tag. They won’t know what the parts cost will be until they have diagnosed the faulty part. Often, repairing the item should be cheaper than buying a new one; otherwise who would bother going to the repair shop?

There are 3 possible reasons for this: 1.) The new battery is defective 2.) The new batter has a lower mAh rating, thus lower capacity. The original battery should have been a 2100 mAh capacity, compare that to the replacement. 3.) Clear the cache partition first and observe the phone for at least 24 hours. (1) Turn off the device. (2) Press and hold the following three buttons at the same time: Volume Up key, Home key, and Power key. (3) When the phone vibrates, release the Power key but continue to press and hold the Volume Up key and the Home key. (4) When the Android System Recovery screen appears, release the Volume Up and Home keys. (5) Press the Volume Down key to highlight wipe cache partition. (6) Press the Power key to select. (7) When the wipe cache partition is complete, Reboot system now is highlighted. (8) Press the Power key to restart the device. Edit: Found a 3rd possibility to add.

Finding a replacement shell will be the most difficult part. If you do order a replacement shell, just follow the teardown to see how to open it up and get the case apart. Nintendo 2DS XL Teardown Check ebay, amazon, or aliexpress for replacement shells.

Check out the guides here: MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Repair They list the required tools for each repair section there. As for the bit-set, yes it has the correct bit. I own that screwdriver set and it has every bit needed to fully disassemble the laptop. Contents: (1) Case with magnetic latching lid with built screw sorting tray (2) 150 mm flex extension (3) Magnetic aluminum driver handle with spinner top for 4 mm drive bits (4) Phillips-000, 00, 0, 1, 2-JIS-J000, J00, J0, J1 (5) Flathead-1 mm, 1.5 mm, 2 mm, 2.5 mm, 3 mm, 4 mm (6) Torx/Torx security T2, T3, T4, T5, TR6, TR7, TR8, TR9, TR10, TR15, TR20, TR25 (7) Penta lobe-P2, P5, P6-Tri-point-Y000, Y00, Y0, Y1 (8) Hex-0.7 mm, 0.9 mm, 1.3 mm, 1.5 mm, 2 mm, 2.5 mm, 3 mm, 3.5 mm, 4 mm, 4.5 mm, 5 mm (9) Nut driver-2.5 mm, 3 mm, 3.5 mm, 4 mm, 5 mm, 5.5 mm (10) Square-1, 2-gamebit-3.8 mm, 4.5 mm (11) Spanner-6, 8-triangle-mm 2, 3 mm (12) iPhone standoff bit, oval drive, SIM eject bit (13) Magnetic pickup bit, 1/4 in. to 4 mm driver adapter (14) Backed...

Note: The Brown/Black pair highlighted in the picture is for the AC connector. For the MagSafe power, you want to disconnect the double-black wire connection. Another way to distinguish if colors differ is that the MagSafe connection has a much larger connector on it.