Introduzione
Usa questa guida per sostituire una scheda madre difettosa nel tuo Samsung Galaxy Watch Active2.
Cosa ti serve
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Spegni il Galaxy Watch Active2 tenendo premuto il tasto inferiore per circa 3 secondi. Dovresti sentire una breve vibrazione.
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Quando compare il simbolo "Spegni", premi il centro dello schermo per farlo spegnere. Dovresti sentire una vibrazione più lunga come conferma.
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Usa un cacciavite Tri-Point Y00 per svitare le quattro viti da 4 mm sul retro dell'orologio.
Y1.5 works just as good
Bekomme ich nicht auf … Schrauben zu fest
The screws are attached to the cover. So you just need to loose them, not remove them.
Any tips for a too tight screw ?
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Posiziona un plettro tra la copertura posteriore in plastica e la cassa in metallo vicino ai tasti.
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Spingi il plettro nella fessura per separare la copertura posteriore dalla cassa.
There is a glue-ish gasket keeping it closed. I used an exacto knife to start it opening.
This was super helpful thank you! Perfect timing
Waarmee kan ik de achterste oplaadplaat weer vast lijmen op de achterste behuizing
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Solleva attentamente la copertura posteriore per accedere al connettore del gruppo dei sensori.
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Usa un spudger per scollegare il gruppo dei sensori dalla scheda madre.
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Rimuovi la copertura posteriore.
Where would you recommend buying a new back panel/charger?
Una pregunta. y para poner el reemplazo sería necesario algún tipo de sellador o silicón?porque pues usualmente este tipo de tapas vienen sellados de fabrica para evitar cualquier posibilidad de que le pudiera entrar agua
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Usa uno spudger per scollegare il gruppo dello schermo e l'altoparlante.
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Usa uno spudger per scollegare il sensore barometrico, i tasti e il microfono.
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Infila uno spudger sotto la scheda madre in alto a destra, accanto al connettore dello schermo.
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Ruota leggermente lo spudger per rilasciare il gruppo della scheda madre.
I would not suggest to do so. There are components underneath the motherboard as well. There are none in this specific corner, but the core assembly does not come out that easily and people might try other corners and positions. Rather unscrew the motherboard and remove the battery from the core assembly directly.
Yes! I was unable to remove the motherboard as pictured unless the screw was removed (Step 12). I suggest a re-ordering of steps in this guide.
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Prendi il gruppo della scheda madre e sfilalo attentamente da sotto i cavi.
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Rimuovi il gruppo della scheda madre.
I had to remove that screw on the core assembly using a Phillips 000. When I initially tried lifting, the core assembly started to bend. Mine also has a connector under the core assembly near the thumb in the picture. The connector goes from the underside of the core assembly to the screen/body. It prevents me from removing the core assembly as I'm not sure how it should be removed examining it
This step is really difficult, and I'm still not sure it was necessary. The core assembly is really packed in there, and it took me several attempts, lifting from various corners. Don't pull by the circuit board. It will bend if you're not careful. You've got to get under the core assembly. I had the most luck starting next to the display connector at the top, then moving to the sensor on the other end of the board (barometric sensor), then moving to the speakers on the left, and finally lifting from multiple points once it was out far enough. In really hoping I didn't damage anything.
I think the comments here should be added to the step before.
I would be very careful following Louis Finney's advice above. They are describing detaching the motherboard from the core assembly which also includes the battery and internal frame. Removing the motherboard from the rest of the core assembly exposes a very delicate looking ribbon cable that I nearly tore by trying to remove the screw holding the motherboard in place.
As Karl Arp notes, trying to pry the core assembly up by the motherboard feels like it puts a lot of strain on the circuit board, so it might be necessary to go at it from multiple angles.
Removing the whole core assembly was very difficult, and required a lot more force than I was expecting, and I had the luxury of being able to approach it from both sides, as the screen had already detached from the device (hence the need to repair), and still found it very challenging.I would advise, at a minimum applying mild heat to the metal outer frame to hopefully cause it to expand and give some additional clearance.
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Capovolgi il gruppo della scheda madre in modo che la stessa sia rivolta verso il basso.
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Usa la punta di un plettro di apertura per staccare il pulsante superiore dal telaio di plastica.
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Usa un cacciavite a croce Phillips per rimuovere la vite da 4,4 mm che tiene ferma la scheda madre.
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Posiziona la parte piatta di uno spudger tra la scheda madre e il telaio in plastica vicino alla bobina di rame in basso a destra.
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Ruota lo spudger per liberare la scheda madre dai supporti in plastica.
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Fai scorrere la scheda madre da sotto le linguette di plastica rimaste per rimuoverla.
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Confronta il nuovo pezzo di ricambio con quello originale: potresti dover trasferire alcuni componenti o rimuovere delle pellicole adesive dalla nuova parte prima di installarla.
Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.
Porta i tuoi rifiuti elettronici a un riciclatore certificato R2 o e-Stewards.
La riparazione non è andata come previsto? Prova delle soluzioni di base ai problemi, oppure rivolgiti alla nostra comunità Risposte iPhone 12 Mini per trovare aiuto.
Confronta il nuovo pezzo di ricambio con quello originale: potresti dover trasferire alcuni componenti o rimuovere delle pellicole adesive dalla nuova parte prima di installarla.
Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.
Porta i tuoi rifiuti elettronici a un riciclatore certificato R2 o e-Stewards.
La riparazione non è andata come previsto? Prova delle soluzioni di base ai problemi, oppure rivolgiti alla nostra comunità Risposte iPhone 12 Mini per trovare aiuto.
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13 Commenti
Hi, I am having issues with bluetooth, is it a replacement or do I need to swap the MB? Thank you
When you have ruled out any software issues (tried restart, factory reset, software update, etc) then this is most likely a MB replacement since all the modules are integrated on that tiny thing.
Nope, the Watch Active has a different motherboard.
My watch stopped vibrating all together, which part do I need to replace?
This would be the vibration motor which is located under the battery (small cylindrical component on the bottom right with two golden contacts) seen in the last picture.
My active 2 watch has water damage is it cheaper to replace the part or parts or get a new one at this point?
The screen has 0 response.
You can always try and open it up to assess the damage and see which parts need replacing.
My watch stopped working after swimming in a pool, What part/s could it be that needs replacement?
Hard to say. But you can always try and open your watch to assess the damage and see which parts need replacing.
If still under warranty, you might want to try and contact the seller.
If the watch is out of warranty it could be a loose display connector (try that first), a defective display, a weak solder joint or maybe water damage.
the power button on my active 2 is non responsive, I've tested the contacts across the button itself as well from the button to the main board and all have continuity. the responsiveness from the button has been getting worse over time. now it just no longer works is this a main board issue?