Whirlpool Washer Not Spinning

Your washing machine is only getting half the job done. It isn't spinning and the clothes are still wet.  The cycle isn't complete.  Perhaps the spin cycle isn't really doing its job; it spins but slower. Maybe you have to run it twice. We will look at the possible causes and solutions.

Check whether your machine has a High-Efficiency badge or not. It may be on the control console or under the lid.

Color High Efficiency badge

For High Efficiency (HE) machines, refer to the solution directly under each possible cause. We will offer separate subheadings for Top Loaders and Front Loaders when the solutions differ.

If you've got an older top loader machine without a High-Efficiency badge, refer to the "Traditional Machines" sections, as these will cover older top loader machines mainly built before 2007. If there's no Traditional Machines section, just follow the main solution, as it doesn't differ from high-efficiency machines.

For the causes that follow, we assume:

1. Your washing machine is plugged in and hasn't been accidentally unplugged. Check that it has power.
2. If it doesn't even respond to start, this isn't the place, you need to consider why the machine won't start at all.
3. That it is able to fill with water. If so, turn the water off for now.
4. You have run a Reset sequence on your machine if it has electronic controls.

Note: If you replace a component on a machine with electronic controls, you should run a reset and a calibration/ recalibration Otherwise, you may not clear the error.

One more note: Whirlpool likes to use family names for machines that might have differing internal components. So for HE top load machines, they all might be called “Cabrio”. You can take a look underneath your washer because you can be more sure of what you’re getting into.

• If you see something that looks like the photo to the left below, you know you have a unit that uses the Vertical Modular Washer design. These are belt-driven, relatively simple machines that have several points of failure that are relatively easy to check.
• If you see something like the photo to the right below, you have a Traditional Direct Drive washer. The green rectangle is around the Transmission, the blue rectangle is around the motor and the brown rectangle is around the drain pump. The coupler is the object between the motor and the transmission; it is shown closeup in the lower left photo with the yellow rectangle.
• Newer Whirlpool top loaders also use direct drive motors so the tan “cake motor” will be there. You will also see the edges of a square metal gearcase that is a little larger than the motor itself. Below the bottom right is a picture.
• If your machine is older and you just see the round cake-like motor on the bottom of the washer basket (usually tan-colored) then you may have a direct drive machine that uses a floating basket. A quick check for this is to see if you can lift the basket of your machine about 20-25 mm(¾-1”) while it is still installed in the machine.  The motor will be mounted directly to the bottom of the outer wash tub along with two pumps.

Vertical Modular Washer Drive	Traditional Direct Drive
Motor Coupler	Newer Whirlpool Top Loader

Here are a few symptom questions to perhaps save some time. Keep in mind, you may need to circle back to “earlier” causes in the list :

• Does the machine pump out? Start with Lid Switch / Door Latch and Skip Not Draining Fully and Water Level Sensor System.
• Does the machine try to spin but can’t or does so slowly(grinding noises rattles banging) Start with Splutch and Shift Actuator or Clutch (Top Load Machines)
• Does the motor run but nothing happens (no sounds)? Start with Broken Belt / Loose Belt or Failed Coupler.

On to the causes!

In order to operate the lid or door must be closed and locked. These units have a latch as well as a door or lid switch.

• If it won't lock, first check the strike (the part that goes into the latch hole) for damage, like bending or breakage.
• If the strike is OK just replace the latch assembly. This is usually pretty simple on either a top loader or a front loader.
• The latch assembly is usually held by only a few screws, and access just involves opening the top of the machine on a top loader, or moving the door gasket/bellows out of the way on a front loader. Take out the old part, and install the new one and you're finished after you reassemble the other parts.

Usually, these machines will give a diagnostic error code if they have a problem with the door switch or latch. They may "limp" for a while where repeatedly closing the door or lid will allow them to operate, but a replacement part is the best solution.

Some newer top load units will give you a short window at the beginning of a cycle to add clothes, but they need to lock and receive a signal from the lock device indicating locked to continue. Often there will be a door-locked light in the control area. If the machine cannot detect a locked lid, it will not spin, although in some cases it might agitate.

This is the very first item to check on your top load machine, especially older ones. These machines will often agitate with the top open, but will not spin. Some newer machines will neither agitate or spin with the lid open. (Handy for creating a soak cycle, just leave the lid open.)

• A quick check: If the machine will start agitating as soon as you close the lid on a wash cycle, the switch is not the problem. If you can’t remember if it does that:
  • Set the machine to a spin cycle. Pull out the knob and then close the lid.
  • If the machine starts (or tries to, it may not be able to spin, but you might hear the motor start), the lid switch is good. Go to Broken Belt/ Loose Belt or Coupler
  • If there’s no response go to the next point here.
• You will need to remove the top of the machine to get to the lid switch. In some cases, this might involve most of the cabinet as the top and sides are joined together, but the repair is simple.
• You need to check the continuity on the lid switch when the lid is closed (the switch is in the operated position).
  • Use a multimeter, set to a continuity setting or Rx1 setting, and make sure you have continuity when the switch is operated.
  • If there’s no continuity, replace the switch.

If the lid switch/door latch checks out, go on to the next item.

A number of Whirlpool High-Efficiency front loaders and many HE top loaders have drive belts that can break or slip.

• You can check the belt tension (make sure the machine is unplugged) and if the belt is loose so that you can slide it by hand on the pulleys, you should replace the belt.
• If the belt looks worn or is cracked or frayed, replace it.
• Of course, if the belt is broken, replace it.
• Note that you can remove the belt on machines with a flat-style belt by walking it off the pulleys to check it. This is not a symptom of a loose belt. You can do this with a V-belt but it's more difficult and you may pinch yourself.
  • You can pull the belt to one side while spinning the pulleys so the belt moves off the pulleys.
  • To reinstall it or replace it just reverse the process.

On Whirlpool top loaders of the traditional "direct drive" type, there is a flexible plastic and rubber coupler that connects the motor and transmission directly. This acts as a shock absorber for the drive train as well so it sees wear and does break.

• This is a very common point of failure for these machines. and they may still operate in wash cycles since the motor reverses to pump or spin.
• You need to disassemble the coupler to check its condition which almost takes more time to describe than to do once you have access to it. You can put the washer on its back (be careful of or remove, the drain hose) to gain access.
• Disconnect the pump from the motor (just snap on the clips).
• Disconnect the motor from the transmission, it has the same kind of clip but with a retaining screw.
• The failures include:
  • The rubber part will be cracked or broken (you will find pieces sometimes under the machine).
  • The plastic "spiders" will be cracked. Beware, they can look good from the outside and may even spin the shafts.
  • When disassembled, check the "double D" holes in the plastic spiders. They can be rounded off by the motor or transmission shafts. The shaft will just spin in the hole and not drive the coupler (or do so poorly).

If the belt or coupler looks good, go on to the next item.

Not a clutch, but a variable speed motor, is at the heart of the spin cycle on the newer top loader machines. The motor speed is increased gradually by a motor controller and the spin speed can vary from a low speed spin to a high speed spin. Other machines use a single-speed motor, but the belt (a little slipping with gradual acceleration) helps to allow the machine to come up to speed.

The task of shifting from only the agitator or wash plate moving, to the whole basket spinning is done by the shift actuator (electric) and the splutch (a kind of toothed clutch). Many Whirlpool units use this system. Some machines use a variation of the splutch that engages splines, we will refer to both as splutches.

• One cause to check is to see if the shift actuator has failed or become disconnected and so the splutch isn't shifted. The following applies to top load machines with a shift actuator (belt driven, also called Vertical Modular washers)
  • You can test the actuator motor on a Whirlpool machine with a multimeter set to resistance function. It should read between 2000-3500 ohms.
  • You can also check that the shift actuator arm is properly engaging the splutch operating lever and hasn't fallen out.
  • If the actuator looks rusty or water damaged, replace it.
  • There is more than one type and they look similar, make sure you order the correct part.
• The Whirlpool shift actuator also has a speed-sensing component that can cause the control board to get erroneous readings which will usually trigger a diagnostic code. This component lets the controller know when the machine has stopped rotating so that it can unlock. It also monitors the spin speed of the washer.

Another cause is the splutch itself has failed (plastic after all). There will often be a clicking, grinding, or rattling sound when the machine tries to spin.

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• Check the splutch actuating lever with the actuator removed if it sticks or binds, replace the splutch. The video below can be helpful here.
• Here is a helpful video dealing with the actuator and splutch.
• If all these parts have checked out, go to the next item.

Some newer Whirlpool top load machines (2014+/- Cabrio models) use a magnetic clutch (we’ll call it a splutch) with a direct drive motor, rather than the shift actuator described above. This allows the basket to spin in unison with the wash plate or agitator. It is still a form of splutch since the moving plate engages splines but now is magnetically actuated.

The magnetic splutch has a part called a slider (or Slider Gear) which engages the splines on the motor’s rotor when pulled toward it by the clutch magnet. You may find that it will make grinding noises if it is not engaging properly or has become worn.

To check it, you need to disassemble the motor.

• Remove the Rotor bolt.
• Remove the rotor. This may take some wiggling because the magnets on the rotor want to stay near the stator.
• Remove the magnetic clutch (the large black ring with wires attached
• Remove the stator (the part with all the coils)
  • You may have to remove a Hall Effect or Rotor position sensor first, or at least disconnect it.
  • It is a small part that is sort of tucked in between some of the coils (usually three)
• The Slider Gear is held in place by a spring with a retainer on the spring.
• You remove the retainer and then the spring and slider.
• If the slider is worn or has missing or broken splines, replace it.
  • Be sure to apply a thread locker (like Loctite 242) to the rotor screw when you reinstall it.
• If it's ok go on to the next applicable item.

A cause of not spinning for these older direct drive top loaders is a worn-out clutch. The clutch allows the basket to begin spinning gradually and keeps the machine from destroying itself with sudden impact-type loads. This does cause the clutch to wear, and finally, it will wear enough that the basket won't even spin.

• On some models (Whirlpool post 1986) the clutch band is involved in releasing the brake which holds the basket still when the agitator is operating.
• When this brake is released, the basket can spin with the clothes and allow the water to be extracted.
• When the clutch is worn, it both can't release the brake and/or can't grip the clutch drum strongly enough to stop slipping as the basket comes up to speed.
• You will often see spinning that is just a slow-speed version of what it should be.

One sign of a worn-out clutch will be the fact that starting the basket spinning by hand allows the machine to spin. This is a hazardous procedure as you have to bypass the lid switch; just start the basket turning a bit if you can. Often your little help will allow the brake to disengage and it will spin from there on its own. The machine will be able to then build up speed and spin fairly normally.

Another symptom will be clothes that take two spin cycles to actually be dry enough to put them into the dryer. Enough water is removed by the first spin, so that the basket is light enough to start and not slip as much on the second spin, and it goes to full speed.

Here is a link to an excellent guide on clutch band replacement. Since the band is the worn part, it is almost always the part to be replaced when the clutch fails.

If all these parts have checked out, go to the next item if applicable.

Several of the Whirlpool top loaders that use the belt drive (Vertical Modular Washer design) can have problems with a hub at the bottom of the washer basket. This hub is made out of plastic and suffers from failures in the plastic splines that connect it to the transmission spin tube (the thing that drives the basket). This is usually manifested in a grinding or banging noise, and the basket doesn’t want to spin. It can also show up as a problem with agitation in the wash cycle. To access this hub, you need to remove the agitator or wash plate, and then remove the washer basket.

Here is a video showing how to do this. It is a substantial undertaking, but if you have pretty basic skills you can do it. Note that the hub fits over the lower shaft's splines, not the smaller splines that stick up more, those are for the agitator or wash plate.

These machines frequently use a drain pump that is driven by its own separate motor. Also because of higher spin speeds they are built with interlocks that prevent the washer from spinning at the highest speed (or sometimes at all) until properly drained.

A cause of not spinning may be that the machine is failing to drain, as the machine won't spin at all until sufficiently drained.

• You can manually drain the machine (buckets and towels are needed) and check if it will spin after it is drained. If so, the drain pump is failing. If it won't spin, there is likely a problem with the water level sensing system.
• You will want to check to see if the drain hose is clogged. If it is, clean it out.
• Check to see if the filter is clogged, as the machine may not be able to drain properly with a clogged filter. Make sure to clean the filter as that is a maintenance item in any event.
• The drain pump may be failing. If so it will often make a loud grinding noise and may pump very slowly even with a known unclogged hose. If that's the case replace the pump.

Additionally, many newer front loaders will give diagnostic codes on their displays, which can help you to check various components.

• Note if you get errors regarding draining, like a code indicating a clogged drain hose, that may be the reason your machine refuses to spin.
• Sometimes a failing pump is treated by the machine as a clogged hose. Check the error codes if they occur.

If it pumps OK and the hose is clear, go to the next item.

These older machines use a simple system for filling, and they don't usually suffer from this preventing spinning. In fact, some early models would spin and drain at the same time.

• Because the washer has only one motor and it is directly connected to the pump, if the washer will run, it will drain, and not be prevented from spinning by water level issues.
• Usually, the pump is designed so that it will only pump out when the motor reverses from the direction it runs for agitation.
• There is no harm, though in cleaning the tube, as it can cause overfill or underfilling problems.

This may cause your machine to behave very similarly to Not Draining Fully above.

Instead of actual water, the problem is that the unit believes there is water present, because the water level sensor is being fooled, or is defective.

The machine may try to drain and may have actually drained, but it still thinks it is full. Often this can arise because of a clog in the line that connects the water level sensor to the tub of the machine.

The unit will have a switch inside it on older, traditional machines. These can fail either mechanically (bad diaphragm) or electrically.

On some newer machines, it will have a movable coil that allows the machine to sense the water level. This allows the machine to set the water level needed as it fills.

These newer machines usually will give error codes if there is a problem with the sensor.

• If the sensor can be checked in a diagnostic mode on the machine, do so.
• If the sensor is a switch (common on older models) you can check it with a multimeter.
  • First, blow into the switch. It should be possible to hear the switch click. If it doesn’t click it might be a sensor rather than a switch.
  • Set the multimeter to a continuity or Resistance setting, If it shows something around 20Ω it is likely a sensor. If you get around 1Ω or less it is a switch
  • Check the switch operation with the multimeter connected. You may need a helper to hold the multimeter probes against the switch connections.
  • You should be able to blow into it and cause the switch to open and close, and the multimeter will confirm this.
• If the sensor is OK, go on to the next item. if not replace it.
• Make sure that the sensing line or tube is clear.
  • On many machines, the sensor is connected by a piece of flexible tubing to the tub or drum, and blowing through it is sufficient to blow out clogs.
  • Disconnect it from the level sensor and blow strongly through the tube. you may hear a little gurgling and there may be a bit of resistance, but you usually can dislodge a clog this way.

Some top loaders can have a suspension rod failure which will cause the clothes to be thrown to one side of the machine and cause an unbalanced condition which will keep the machine from going into the high spin mode. It may also not spin at all.

• You can check the suspension by pushing the basket down either by the agitator or by the rim (if there's no agitator).
• If the basket just moves back into position quickly that indicates a good suspension, Go on to the next cause.
• If it bounces several times like a ball, this is a sign of failure in the suspension. Replace the suspension rods on the machine as a group. If one is failing, then others could fail soon as well.
  • Note that some Whirlpool models have suspension rods that go in specific locations on the machine —they will have markings on them such as colored portions. Pay attention to this when replacing the rods.
• Also if the washer tub seems to lean to one side or return to an off-center position when the machine is empty, that also can be a sign of a bad suspension rod. You should replace all of them if that happens. Otherwise, you might have a successive failure if you replace them one at a time as each wears out in turn. Rods are sold in sets which are also convenient.
• When replacing the set of rods don’t remove all four at once, rather do one rod, then another, etc. until all four are done. Otherwise, the washer basket will sag down with no suspension, and it is much harder to lift it up in order to put the new rods in place.

Front-load machines can suffer from a worn drum suspension. Most front loaders use a shock absorber system, and when the shocks wear, the machine will become very bouncy because the shocks won't slow down the movement of the drum.

• You can check to see if the shocks are still ok by giving the drum a downward push near the front it should move back smoothly with no bouncing.

Bad shocks will cause the machine to vibrate and the control board will show an out-of-balance condition. The machine may also indicate an error code associated with a failure in the drum suspension.

Sometimes the machine will start to spin but can't complete the spin because of an out-of-balance condition. Usually, you will hear a great deal of banging and the machine will shut itself down.

On some Whirlpool direct drive design machines there are small plastic glide strips of a kidney bean shape that support the tub. When these glides wear out, they allow the tub to oscillate very violently with a mildly unbalanced load and can trigger an unbalanced alarm on some machines which will stop the spin cycle.

Occasionally, the motor run capacitor will fail, and the machine will not spin (it may not run at all and just hum). To test it you will need to be sure it is discharged first. Use a screwdriver to touch both contacts simultaneously to discharge it.

You can test the capacitor with a multimeter, either on capacitance function (best) or by setting it to a resistance function and checking if the resistance value starts low and increases across the terminals of the capacitor, until it indicates an open circuit.

A less common but still significant problem will be the failure of the tub/drum bearing.

This failure will usually be accompanied by grinding or groaning noises.

This is among the more involved repairs as it requires substantial disassembly of your machine. You will need to remove the tub/drum.

• If you choose to do this repair (it is long but not particularly difficult) you should make sure to replace the tub/drum seal while you do the work, as the failure of this seal is usually connected with failure of the bearing.
• On some top loaders, the seal is integral to the transmission and can’t be replaced separately.
• Having an assistant and space to work is usually very helpful.

You will need some specialized tools with a top load machine, like a spanner wrench or a special large hex wrench for the tub nut. You will need to be able to lift out the basket and then the entire tub assembly. This applies to Traditional machines as well.

You will likely have to disassemble the machine nearly completely. Generally, there aren't as many special tools needed, as you don't have two separate rotating pieces like a top loader.

The motor can fail so that it won't run in one direction which can make it impossible for the machine to spin.

A strong sign that there is a problem with the motor is if the unit will not run through a wash cycle, since the motor is involved in this action. Also, you may have heard humming from the unit with no action.

Many units will also signal a problem with a diagnostic code.

If the motor runs on some cycles, but not others, that points to the motor control board. If it runs on cycles where it turns in the same direction as another cycle where it won't run, this strongly points to the motor control board.

The last resort, if all the other items have checked out, the control board is likely the problem. Sadly, it isn't last because it's uncommon, but rather because it is costly. The service manuals on many machines will point you here after you check the other possibilities, and you may have gotten a diagnostic code for that.

Great Video on many aspects of no-spin problems of some HE Whirlpool top loaders (those with 6 cycle/status lights below the knob). Long, but a course in diagnostics and fixes. Worth the time if you have one of these machines.

Another useful video on Shift Actuators