GE Front Load Washing Machine Not Spinning

On this page, we will look at GE front-load washing machines that are having trouble spinning. Due to the multiplicity of models and features only a general overview is possible.

These machines are belt driven with the motor mounted on the drum.   They have electronic controls from early on.  They generally are capable of displaying error or diagnostic codes and self-test data which can vary from unit to unit.

The first step before you do anything else is to adjust the load. This is the most common reason for a no-spin condition.  Front-loaders use sensing cycles to determine the load size, and if they can’t get the load to distribute evenly, which they attempt to do by back-and-forth partial rotations, they won’t spin.

• Check to see if the load has bunched. This can be common with a mixed load with a fitted sheet among the items. The sheet becomes like a sack and the rest of the load ends up inside of it in a huge ball).  This can happen with flat sheets too.
• Also, washing a single large item can lead to this condition. Try to wash items that can be adjusted to balance each other.
• Rearrange the items to be more evenly distributed.
• An overloaded machine can also suffer from a no-spin condition. Overloading can increase belt slip which will generate error codes. If the machine is very full, try removing some items.
• Start the cycle again and observe if the problem recurs. If the machine won’t turn, go to Drive Belt Problems below
• If no problem, you are done!

Make sure your washing machine is level. This can cause out-of-balance conditions, which will translate into unfinished spin cycles. Level both front to back and side to side. In some cases, the top may be uneven in profile, and you may need to use the edges of the cabinet where the top joins the sides. Make sure your machine doesn’t rock or wobble in any direction. If you just moved your machine to a different location, be sure to re-level it.

You will find information for reading the GE Washing Machine Error Codes on this page. Many front-load machines have substantial diagnostic information available as well as the ability to run sequenced self-tests.

• Will it spin in other cycles but not complete a cycle?
  • Go to Drain Pump Failure.
• Does it stop in the middle of a spin repeatedly?
  • Make sure you check Leveling and Load Balance
  • Go to Suspension Problems
  • Go to Motor Failure
• Will it repeatedly not enter fast spin?
  • Make sure you check Leveling and Load Balance
  • Go to Drive Belt Problems
  • Go to Suspension Problems
  • Go to Pressure Switch/Water Level Control System Failure
  • Go to Drain Pump Failure
  • Go to Motor Failure

Keep in mind that a failure here may also cause a refusal to run a wash cycle as well. Sometimes, you may get a machine to run by closing the door more forcefully.

Failure of the door switch is a common cause of no spin conditions. Test it for continuity if possible. You may be able to do so at the main control board if you have access to a schematic diagram that shows what wires to check. If you can check the switch this way, trace the wires if possible.

• You should trace these from the switch as there is an outside chance that a wire has broken or been cut.
• Some machines will have a connector at the switch, making it possible to test it directly with a multimeter.
  • Remove the switch for easier testing in this case.

Door latch failure will prevent agitation or spin. The control board on most of these units with electronic controls is looking for a signal from the lid latch that indicates engagement, along with the continuity check that indicates that the lid is closed. Testing the signal is beyond the scope of this wiki, so if you have symptoms that include a failure to lock, replace the latch/switch first. If the problem persists, replace the main control board.

A broken belt is a frequent cause of a no spin condition, and the machine will not wash either. The next step is to check the drive belt. This will mean moving the machine away from the wall to access the rear access panel.

• A quick test is to see if the drum spins with little or no effort.  This is a likely sign of a broken belt, so you should check further.

. Check the following:

• The belt may just be worn out and slipping.
  • Check to see if the belt has oil or grease on it. This isn’t as common on front loaders.
• Check if any part is rubbing on the belt, etc.
• Check to see that the pulleys are tight.
• Check that the motor mounting fasteners are tight.

Suspension problems will cause the washer to not spin or not finish spinning, often with a repeated out of balance condition.

Shocks or Springs can fail and make your machine suffer from unbalanced load failures.You can try the bounce test, but it is harder to observe and harder to bounce the drum in a way that tests all of the shocks. Your best bet for checking is to look at the shocks themselves, To do this you will need to gain access to the lower part of your machine. This will likely involve removing both front and rear access panels.

• Once you have access to the shock absorbers or dampers, check to see if they are leaking.
  • This is best done with a paper towel. Use it to wipe the shiny shaft on the shock. Check for oil leakage.
• If you see one with a potential leak your best bet is to remove it so you can check for smooth resistance through the whole length of travel.
  • You want to compress the shock, and then extend it noting if there are loose or very stiff spots.
  • If any shocks fail this test replace all of them, as likely another one will fail after the first failed one is replaced.

If your suspension systems seem to be ok, go on to the next item that applies.

If your machine thinks it still has water in it it may refuse to spin. The Pressure Switch or Sensor, functions as the water level control. You will find one of two types of sensing devices, a pressure switch (usually with multiple switching stages), or a pressure sensor. You can normally tell what type your machine has by the connectors. The pressure sensor has one three-wire connector, while the pressure switch has two connectors with two or three wires each.Pressure sensors are more common on later (2016+) high end units; the usual resistance is around 20Ω. The sensing device is connected by a flexible tube to the drum or tub.

Newer machines usually will give error codes if there is a problem with the sensor/switch or the water level system.

• If the sensor can be checked in a diagnostic mode on the machine, do so. The GE Washing Machine Error Codes page has information on running these tests.
• If the sensor is a switch (common on older models) you can check it with a multimeter.
  • First, blow into the switch. It should be possible to hear the switch click. If it doesn’t click it might be a sensor rather than a switch.
  • Set the multimeter to a continuity or Resistance setting, If it shows something around 20Ω it is likely a sensor. If you get around 1Ω or less it is a switch
  • Check the switch operation with the multimeter connected. You may need a helper to hold the multimeter probes against the switch connections.
  • You should be able to blow into it and cause the switch to open and close, and the multimeter will confirm this.
    • Remember that this is not a foolproof test; it will only show you that the switch contacts can function. It may be defective such that the rise in pressure in trapped air will not operate the switch.
• If the sensor is OK, go on to the next item. if not replace it.

The piece of flexible tubing (the Pressure Tube) to the tub or drum can get clogged, and blowing through it is usually sufficient to blow out clogs. Occasionally a no drain condition can be caused by a clogged pressure tube. The machine will fill with water, but fails because the clogged pressure tube holds in the pressure and makes the machine “think” it is still full, even when the pump has pumped it out.

• Disconnect the pressure tube from the pressure sensor/switch
• Blow through it to see if it is clogged. Blow strongly through the tube. you may hear a little gurgling and there may be a bit of resistance, but you usually can dislodge a clog this way.
• You can also try to clean it using a vinegar solution. Use a small funnel and pour the solution through the tube into the washer drum or tub. If it won’t flow, this is a strong sign of a clog issue. Replace the tube and check the air dome for clogs. The vinegar is not harmful to your machine and may even make it smell better.
• If the tube checks out, go to the next item.

There is an outside chance that your drain pump is failing, or is clogged. This is a good thing to check if you have found that the machine is leaving the clothes rather wet. Many machines will not enter the high spin mode if they aren’t completely empty, or they may give a long drain code and stop.

• Disconnect the hose from the tub to the pump and check for blockage.
• Remove the drain pump and check that it spins freely.
• Check the tech sheet with your machine if possible for the resistance of the Drain pump winding. Use a multimeter to check it. Around 10-20 Ω is okay.

The motor on your machine may have failed or partially failed so that it can’t go into full-speed spin mode. The bearings may have failed, causing the motor to become overloaded. You may find that the motor is very hot to the touch or will restart after it has time to cool. If a winding has failed, generally, the motor will struggle even to start. You can find values for checking the resistance of the motor windings in the mini manual for your machine. This is a fairly major repair, and if your machine is older, it may not be economical to attempt. If the motor is ok, move on to the next item.

At this point, the main control board is the remaining item to check. Several error codes may lead you straight to it. This, too, is a costly part, but the replacement is less involved than replacing the motor, so that it may be worth the attempt. You may be able to get a main control board from a broken or discarded machine as well.

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