Here are two links to part you are looking for. If you are in the UK then its safe to order from USA and sometimes faster delivery than buying from just down the road here in UK. I dont know if the screen and digitiser are glued and part costs are very high and ripe for "high cost no profit hack-up" if your not very careful. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OEM-Microsoft-Surface-Pro-LCD-display-Touch-Screen-Digitizer-Glass-Assembly-/281227619484?pt=UK_iPad_Tablet_Cases_Co... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Microsoft-Surface-Pro-1-2-LCD-Screen-Display-Replacement-Part-USA-/151054515211?pt=Other_Tablet_eReader_Ac... Good luck

Use a soldering iron with a very thin tip, i use this method but just watch your temperatures. MAKE SURE YOU TIN THE TIP OF THE IRON PROPERLY OR THIS WILL NOT WORK. Hold the phone in a clamp or vice as you will need both hands for this. Place the hot iron on the screw head, use very thin solder between the screw and the tip of the iron, as soon as it melts TURN THE SOLDERING IRON OFF and hold it still for around 5-10 sec then simply turn the phone or iron anti clockwise and it will unscrew the screw. It will take a very very small amount of solder so be very careful not to let it flow over the head especially on the screws in the base. Good luck and watch your temperatures.

To the right of the speaker socket there is a small pinhole which contains a noise cancellation sensor and this is most likely blocked so try blowing into it or using compressed air give it a blast and get the dust out. There are two speakers one at the top and one at the bottom of the iPhone and the sensor is not detecting that there is incoming sound on the top speaker, in effect it has turned the top speaker off and only unblocking the hole will turn it back on again.

I have a brilliant solution but its not for the faint hearted or most likely the intelligent. Get an unlocked iPhone and then get another locked iPhone, solder the unlocked chips off locked one and re-solder them on the unlocked one, now get other chips off unlocked iPhone and solder them on locked iPhone, WAIT. Try again, get iPhone thats locked and get another thats unlocked now concentrate and stop messing around. Desolder chips from perfectly good working iPhone 5 therefore breaking it and solder them on the other iPhone that is broken therefore making it unbroken. Magic solution, pick up unlocked iPhone in left hand and now concentrate as this is very difficult part, pick up locked iPhone in right hand, put contents of left hand in right hand and contents of right hand in left hand now in left hand you have locked iPhone and in right hand you have unlocked iPhone. (Some people are Otters, some people are Rocks)

Hi, the coil to which oldturkey3 refers to is marked 6R8 and has blown and needs to be replaced. There is a way round it by soldering a cable from the position in my photo to the screen connector on the logic board therefore cutting out the coil. I used +- .5mm insulated cable recycled from a cable from a old laptop screen. Im sure you can find a technician that can do the job, if they cant do this simple bit of soldering then heaven help us. Why dont you have a go yourself, beginners luck is a strange thing, you will most likley get it right the very first time and then screw up every other soldering job you attempt for a month but luckily you only need to get it right once unless of course you are going to join the iFix community then sadly once you are hooked its a life of racking your brains for solutions that could be solved by just going out and buying a new one but that community is called iPrix. Good luck

Where did you buy it from and how much did you pay for the digitizer, if the supplier you bought it from buys it for say £10 and then marks it up by say 30% then they will sell it for +- £15, if you buy one for £45 and the mark up is the same then he has paid £30 and chances are they will be of very different quality. Even eBay suppliers have a set markup and dont just suck a price out of fresh air and i can assure you that there is a reason why they are cheap and probably 2nd grade or very bad copies from a factory in Chengdu China. I have fitted a lot of digitizers and have tried many suppliers and have a box of them that are faulty and if i put them side by side i can see the difference in quality compared to the supplier i use to buy all my apple spares from now. My answer is a bit long but im just trying to get across the point. You pay cheap price you get cheap quality.

Hi, Sounds like the i5 has developed the same problem as the ipad mini in that the digitizer or chassis has some kind of short on it. I would first check the chassis or frame of the i5 for ANY damage as just the slightest dent or deformity in it would cause a grounding then check the connector on the board. If you pre fit it ie put a piece of paper between the frame and the new screen does it still do it, (an ipad mini wont) If it does then it most likely is at the motherboard connector where the problem is, if it does not then it is a problem with grounding on the frame/chassis. Also i found that on the iPad mini if i bought OEM parts there was less of a problem but you are only going on the word of the supplier that its OEM parts OEM Original Equipment Manufacturers for those who did not know Something else to check is the ribbon cable for the digitizer, it fits a certain way as far as i can remember it folds under not over itself and this can cause a problem in that you are flexing the cable back on...

Hi Angel, Do you mean the gold prong on the motherboard, there are two of them, if so you can find these on any scrap laptop motherboard, just solder one off, clean the pad on the nexus mobo and re-solder, i use solder paste as you dont need so much heat to do the job, if you dont have access to a scrap mobo then you can use the spring out of a ball point pen but its a bit tricky, also you can solder a piece of wire from the pad on the mobo to the pad inside the lid which i have not attempted but sound workable, just get the correct pad inside the lid. Cheers Mike You owe your existence to Tinkering cavemen

Hey Brandon, The top left prongs are for the GPS antenna, the top right prongs are for the NFC antenna and the prongs near the battery terminal are for the WI-FI antenna, if any of them are broken off it will most likely break the loop on the terminal pads which is needed to transmit the signal through one prong into the black antenna pads located inside the lid and back through the mobo circuit. Im unsure of the purpose of U62 as it does not contact any terminal pads inside the lid but might have been placed there as is the large square hole in the chassis just above the battery for later modifications like adding a rear camera. I hope this helps and if a prong is missing you can most likely find one similar in a laptop or scrap tablet and solder it on as a substitute. Cheers Mike Jeez i love to tinker

I had this problem today and solved it by using the plastic that comes off the adhesive tape around the edges of the digitizer, cutting it to size and laying it on top of the foam seal on each side of the screen and then turning and cutting the plastic from the top and bottom and sticking it to the base and top of the screen. It seems the chassis of the iPad mini is magnetized, which you will see when you screw the metal shield plate in and the screw disappears from the end of the screwdriver. I dont know if this (the magnetism) is the problem and im no fizzy-sist but shielding the edge of the digitizer seems to solve it, for me.