My question is about measurements i made on the resistors of a PCB, which is a component of my PC. All the readings I made...

My Audio Card was broken and i tried to fix it. I replaced many of the components. After i made the replacements i...

Laptop ACER Travelmate 4000LMi Before few days i noticed a yellowish oval shaped area in the middle of my screen. This...

I want to use my Black&Decker Hot Air Gun which is 1750 Watt with a range of 460 to 600 Celsius degrees (two-button...

My mother's refrigerator do not have the right temperature, in fact have the temperature of environment... Food has been...

About a EMU APS audio card (it is a PCI card, came out in 1999). I had made it work with WinXP but after a re-installation...

Printer and scanner Epson Stylus Photo RX620. Scanner Unit works fine. Does not work printer. There is an error message in...

Today i tried to polish my car using my Grinder, but after a few minutes of working, it stoped. I can open it, but i do...

Hello Whirlpool ARC 8120 refrigerator-freezer. Every few seconds, a "beep" sounded with the lights on and off at the same...

Finally, after a long period of trying, the problem was solved. Problem was due to the shorted PLD. Probably by the faulty PSU. It was repaired by "transplanting" from a donor card. Α forum member gave me this idea and he really helped. It was very difficult to find such a similar card. I found it in an old shop and although it was sold only for spare parts, gave me its PLD and replacing with it the short-circuited PLD of my own original card I made this card work again.

If AndrewS reading, need again help or any idea... After almost 1 year i made everything to bring it back in life. I de-solder about 15 components, found new ones, bought them and also bough a solder station, build a digital microscope and yesterday i replace them all. After i connect it in PC, there were spikes in the E-DRIVE connector. I de-solder it but continue to give spikes and fire in the same area. I try to clean the area so nothing touch each other and the spikes and fire stop but after a few seconds one of the tantalum capacitors burned completely. I replace it but again burned. I know that my changes to fix it is almost zero, that is why i am looking if somebody sell one but the only one i found sell both parts ( this card have two parts, the E-Card and the E-Drive). I only need the Card. And it sell it in a very high price. So if somebody have an idea, i will give it a try...

Note : The below answer is previous in time comparing with the above comments, and placed here by mistake brandon k thank you very much for your detailed answer. I have bought a new board. From this new board i saw the connections and tried to wired the capacitors and the resistor that their base were destroyed. It was very difficult but i did it(???). (instead of a 120 Ωμ resistor i used a 125Ωμ because i did not find the 120). I attached a picture. Then i put it on the device and it works (i mean did not burn or explosion) but the problem (bib noise and lumps on-off) persist. Then i was trying to compare the old board with the new, and i saw that in the old board there was some connections that have a continuity that should not have as should not exist in the new one. I check every component on board and i found that some resistors (with wires) had different values (on multimeter reading) that the matching on the new board. Then i desolder these resistors to check its value, but they were ok. The board...