Sounds like maybe it's the disc reading lens. But I've heard of them doing the same thing when they just need a complete system cleaning. Take it apart and blow all the dust and dirt out of the inside. If not, then it's going to be the lens going bad.

There maybe a certain app that helps connect to that certain model? Seems like I had one in the past and downloaded an app to my phone and was able to connect them then I could send and print pictures off my printer.

Could be broken internal hardware? Do you tend to put a lot of pressure on that button? If so, you may need to take it apart and check the hardware that activates the button underneath. Also, you could try a little compressed air to clean the joystick, and all the other internal components. That should fix it.

It could very well be the window motor. If you plan to DIY then you could also check to see if it's still on track..if all of your other windows work fine , the driver side could have very well just popped off track.

Some adhesives that come to mind are E6000 and J-B Weld. These two are water resistant/sweat and heat resistant. And they both are some of the strongest bonding alternatives. I'd say fix with this first or find an epoxy that'll withstand water/heat wear and tear.

First test whether it is a software or hardware issue. Do this by connecting your bluetooth to a device then determine if both earphones play equally. If not, plug the aux cord from your device into your headphones. Plug the aux cord slowly into your headphones to see if it switches from audio playing on one side to playing on both. Check your settings to determine if your sound is getting equally distributed. If so, The Aux Jack-in could be damaged or dirty or it could have a bad connection. You may need to disassemble your headphones and fix the problem. Headphone bluetooth transmitters and aux Jack-in run parallel circuits with one another. So when we know that only one side works the problem can be shifted to the other side, to be dealt with. Look for a faulty aux cable, or worn out jack’s. That could cause a loose connection as well.

Usually washers have two filters. One filter is for your water pump and the other is for your built-in lint filter. Washers nowadays usually just have one accessible one and that is the water pump filter. The lint filter like I said is usually built-in on all the newer washers and therefore it is hard to access and clean. But if you can it will greatly increase the life of your washer. Usually the lint filter is located below the tumbler on the front end loading washer. And behind the washer if it is a top loading or on the side. If you can clarify the make and model number of the washer. It would be a quick fix and help. Any problems?

I've had controllers do this before. A sign that it's taking to much physical wear. Usually, a controller will do that when its hardware is resting on the internal components. Or the “middle man” component isnt doing its job because it is broken/worn or out of place. The only way to know would be to take it apart. Look for an internal part that gives the trigger resistance so it isnt ever resting on the internal button after you have applied pressure. Then see if it's the trigger itself by taking off the front controller plate and seeing if the button makes contact with the necessary button. If so, check the internal buttons to see if they are stuck or in a bind. Press them a few times and see if the console receives signal. Make sure everything is secure and safely reassembled.

Well usually internal things are made to fit securely and safely right along one another or close enough. Usually a battery in cellphones is the biggest and heaviest internal component. Dismounted battery could eventually with enough force dislodge other internal parts or damage itself. And disconnect or damage wiring.Its definitely not good to have your main source of power free falling with every motion. This could cause positive and negatives to eventually cross and and fry delicate parts or your phone completely.

Peel back the sole without ripping any new and durable sole left. *Clean the upper and lower faces of the soles where they touch one another. *Make sure there is no debris or dirt on either face. *You will need boot repair glue, I have had to use Gorilla glue and as long as the surfaces are clean and you apply a generous amount to completely fill the face of both soles it should give you a good temporary fix. You will need to clamp the soles together, if you do not have a clamp use a rope/string or weights to keep the soles compressed and attached. Loose and flimsy soles are a bad sign, especially for newly worn boots. And any glue will continue to be just a temporary fix from there on out. ***The most permanent fix I have came across is to align the sole by hand and careful put screws in the outer sole into the boot with adhesive to prevent leaks. Be sure to not screw too close to the inside to prevent your feet from feeling the repairs. Go from the bottom in, instead of the top into the sole so that the...

For Work boot repairs, almost any adhesive will fail pretty quickly once you have trouble the first time. There is a permanent fix that will outlast the remaining life of the work boot.

Pull apart the soles until you reach where they bond on the boot. I personally dont like to fix what isnt broken so I would stop there, especially if there is no leak or issues where the sole is left bonded. Clean both surfaces. You can let them air dry or use a heat gun. Be careful though, if you use too close you will heat and loosen other materials or likely damage them. Then apply light even adhesive to both surfaces and apply a clamp to the soles for the duration of the curing process. 12-24hrs. Remove clamps and and place your screws evenly around the sole to help distribute the weight and keep a tight seal. Best to go from bottom of sole up toward the boot so you can hide the heads of the screws on the bottom. Be careful to not go so far in toward where your foot will be to cause pain. Grind off the rest of the screw.

I would estimate a job like this a little longer. No need to rush this part, it's the most important asset to footwear. Its responsible for the function/use, comfortabilty, form, strength and durability. So this must be done efficiently and effectively.

I advise pulling apart the soles until you meet where they are joined. Starting from this point is best. Just observe the faces of the two soles and clean away any dirt and debris. Be sure to allow the footwear to dry before continuing with adhesive. Use a strong and durable adhesive to bond the two soles together. Be careful as some adhesives tend to swell after curing and this can cause discomfort and render footwear useless. Completely cover the face of both soles. Dont worry about excess just wipe away as you squeeze them together and hold. Be sure to clamp footwear soles for the duration of the curing process to prevent and leaks cracks. Then finish off with water/stain repellent to repel moisture and increase the life of the glue repair.