Its common to accidentally pull components off the board when disconnecting the cameras. if even one of the cameras (usually a component named FL3903 which delivers power to the Wide camera) if this component is missing all the cameras will refuse to work. Please search for “FL3903 iphone x” and see if you can identify if the part is missing. Its not a hard fix for a technician, but its usually beyond home repair as it requires precise soldering.

It could could be one of two likely faults (1) software fault (2) If the camera module is sending corrupted information to the cpu it may be causing it to crash and reboot the phone (3) hardware fault (4) There could be a fault with the camera causing it to draw too much current and tripping the overcurrent protection in the phone In either case you should try replacing the front and/or back cameras and see if it fixes the issue if not it may have to be looked at by a board specialist to see if there is something else wrong

I see this to fit in one of three possible issues (in order of likelyhood) 1. (since this is an older laptop) It may be a BIOS related issue and the RTC battery (small CR2032 coin cell inside the laptop) may need to be replaced for the laptop to boot. Most laptops should still boot without it but it has happened to me on a number of Acer laptops that this resulted in a fix. 2. A faulty RAM stick is causing the system to fail the POST and is resulting in the behavior mentioned. if you have a known good one lying around you can attempt to replace it with the known good one and see if it will start NOTE: RAM this old tends to fail together and it is likely that (if there are two sticks) both have failed. Since all faulty RAM needs to be removed before the system before a successful start, please remove both sticks from the system when testing with a known good stick. 3. Motherboard/CPU/BIOS chip issue these are generally not considered economically viable fixed in most cases and are generally very difficult...

I’ve had the same thing happen to me on an iphone 7. In my case it turned out the screen was faulty. and replacing it caused the phone to return to normal function.

Remember that macbook SSD’s have a proprietary connector and will have to be adapted if you want to use a standard m.2 drive. you will also have to disable hibernate using the system commands in order to stop the machine from getting stuck in hibernate. if you would like a compatible model ifixit sells one on their website. OWC Aura Pro 6G SSD for MacBook Air 11" and 13" (Mid 2012) MacBook Air 11" and 13" (Mid 2012) SSD IMPORTANT NOTE. the 2012 macbook airs do not support PCIE NVME drives and will only accept SATA AHCI type M.2 SSDs more information can be found here: https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/upg...-2013-2014-macbook-pro-ssd-to-m-2-nvme.2034976/

I’ve fixed many mouses myself in the past. You will have to open in and identify the type of switch and verify with continuity that it is the switch that has failed. Assuming that it is the switch it should be fairly straight forward to replace with a soldering iron and some time. If you need help finding the switch in question please post a picture (and if possible accurate dimensions) of it here and i can do my best to help.

It sounds like you may have shorted the back light circuit and caused the Fuse/Filter to blow (FL4211 in the schematic). You can measure its continuity to confirm that it has failed. And replacing it should solve your issue. I will however warn that replacing such a small part is not easy and requires a lot of skill and practice.

You can try disconnecting the battery from the phone when the phone is on and charging, this will tell you how much current is actually going to the battery rather then used up by the phone. It’s possible that it really isn’t charging the battery at all. One of the common issues on the iPhone 6s is a chip known as tristar which can fail and will prevent the battery from charging correctly.

You can buy USB Current Ammeters and see if there is current being drawn ifixit even has one listed on its store. Regular charge current is usually in multiples of ~500mA. USB Mini Voltmeter

If you have a multi-meter on hand you can measure the capacitors near the display connector in order to see if there’s backlight voltage present. if its missing (I Suspect it is) you can also check the fuse and check for a short across the capacitors to see if it might be a simple repair.