The ANALOG dial knob timer on my old very compact Montgomery Ward microwave is no longer shutting off. I don't mind buying...

Unfortunately, I've acquired a neglected yard tractor / mower with multiple issues. I've yet not bothered to try to start...

To test your diagnosis, try this. With the bowl removed, but the float installed properly, hold the carb level and gently push the float upward. That’s is where it would be if the bowl was full of fuel. The plane of the float should be more-or-less level when it stops. With the float at the top of its travel, blow gently into the fuel inlet tube (you might want to use a small bit of new clean fuel line for this). What SHOULD happen is that you won’t be able to blow without letting the float drop a bit. It’s the same principle as the float in a toilet tank. When you let the float drop, that should open the valve as you blow. If you CAN blow through with the float at the TOP of its travel, I’d suspect that the tiny rubber o-ring , which should be in the seat tube, is gone. That will prevent the needle from closing tightly, thus allowing fuel to keep flowing. You’d be best off buying a carb rebuild kit, or at least the gasket set, to get that o-ring. Note that o-rings for carbs must be specific for fuel,...

I presume you are referring to the “derailleur” which is the part of the drive train hanging below the rear axle, with two small sprockets. That moves the chain on the rear sprockets to change gears. Since you haven’t actually described what is going on, so it’s hard to know what to suggest. However I’d make a wild guess and say there’s possibly some problem with the cable that operates the rear derailleur. Let me suggest that you ask a friend who has a multi-speed bike to show you how the derailleur normally works, so you can look carefully while the gears are being shifted, to help you see what NOT happening on yours. Look first to see if the cable actually moves through the housing when you operate the shifter. If it doesn’t, lubrication might solve the problem, or more likely, the cable itself needs to be replaced. That’s not expensive, but would require a few basic tools. Another possible problem is that the derailleur is fine, but the chain slipped off the rear sprockets and is jammed between the...

I agree that the inlet valve is the prime suspect. But the first thing I'd check is to see if there's something clogging the problem inlet. Given that you've already switched the hoses, chances are you already checked there. But, if you have old plumbing, or a water source which may not be perfect, and if there's a there's screen filter at the point where the hose attaches to the machine, there may be some debris restricting the flow. Again, unlikely, but a simple check and easy fix. Otherwise, I agree with oldturkey03, roll up your sleeves and replace that inlet valve. It always feels great to solve such problems on your own.

I have often had this exact symptom on an old beast of a mower. It was also a Tecumseh, but not sure the engine brand really matters. In my case, it was water in the fuel which settled to the bottom of the carburetor float bowl. I could do a quick fix by just loosening the nut fitting on the bottom of the bowl enough to let the water and then some gas drain out. Water is heavier than gas so it sinks below the gas. Usually that was enough to solve the problem. A better fix is to remove the carb and clean it, and make sure that the tank is as clean as you can get it too. Yes, fuel with alcohol is a problem, probably explains why I had this problem once or twice a year. Our local mower repair shop will do a quick turn-around on carb cleaning / rebuild if I bring in the carb removed from the mower. In busy season, I get the carb back the next day. If they're slow, I can pick it up in the afternoon. Maybe that's just because they like me, it's certainly not because I'm a big spender! They replace the needle and...