Troubleshooting new PC builds are and do deserve an entire book's worth of possibilities. Boiled down to the basics you are looking at a process of elimination to slowly verify and weed out each component that works until you find the one that isn't. I highly recommend looking through the many ifixit troubleshooting guides or simply googling one (youtube is silly with them if you hate reading). The main information that will help you troubleshoot a preboot or prePOST issue is the onboard indicator on the motherboard. In your case this is likely just a buzzer/beeper that will emit coded tones to indicate which part of the boot up process has been reached or failed. Here is a link to the Asus default guide on this but you could/should also look up the specific ones for your motherboard and where/what the indicator is. https://www.asus.com/us/support/FAQ/1029... That being said if everything is working correctly and POSTing you could try using the alternate graphics outputs (HDMI instead of DP vis versa etc)...

This happens to me when the guardian is not set or you are outside of it. Can you reset the view or bring up the menu to create a new boundary? When they released the pass-through update I had this happen to me and had to bring up the menu and turn the guardian mode back to my normal settings. This sometimes takes up to 30-45 sec to load for some reason but recent updates have mostly solved this delay for me.

While you cannot remotely change the screen lock password most devices do support remotely locking them until (hopefully) physical access is restored and you can manually reset the password on the device. One of the unique things about Samsung's version of this is that when you remotely lock a device you can also set a new Pin to use when you do recover the device. This is a single use Pin so it is not exactly the solution you are requesting but might help depending on your specific use case. Below is the step by step guide on Samsung's website on how to do this (you do need to have this device registered to your Samsung account and it has to be be on and connected to a network). https://www.samsung.com/latin_en/support...-devices/what-to-do-if-you-have-lost-your-galaxy-device/#:~:text=For%20an%20extra%20layer...

From your description the iPad is working and powering on so the obvious culprit is the screen itself is no longer displaying. The most likely failure point is the ribbon cable that connects the screen to the logic board. If the connector isn't seated exactly right or if it got pinched in the cover that screws over the connectors or between any other pieces of the reassembly it can cause it to stop/intermittently working. Have you visually inspected the connector cable and checked the connection where it plugs into the main board? You can also try starting it up with the screen off and the cable connected but not screwed down, this way you can gently flex the cable and connector to see if the screen flickers or stops working in certain positions. If this does nothing the other options are the screen itself being damaged, under undue strain, or even bent and possibly the graphics chip on the logic board being damaged or affected in some way (these are far less likely but worth considering if nothing else...

I would recommend a high speed tool like a Dremel or Jigsaw for this with a fine blade. If you have access to a a hotknife or heated blade cutter and a well ventilated area that will work even better. If you don't have access to these you can use tape around where you want to cut and then score several times through the tape with the exacto blade (or use a hacksaw if you have one) all the way around and ensure the least amount of stress possible is transferred to the rest of the container before cutting all the way through. It also helps if you can put each internal side up against a solid object to cut against (Like a narrow counter or table) to avoid bending the plastic while cutting it and just rotate for each side.

The small levers are meant to be pushed up and when fully pressed will retract out of the way of the battery (it will "click" and latch in the open position). The lever pushes a wedge behind the battery that shoves the battery sideways so you can lift it out vertically. If you are having any connection between the contacts the latch is not fully extended. You can remove the 4 "grip" screws (You'll need a T6 long screwdriver) to loosen the plastic opening slightly if it's wedged there but if you want to remove the cover completely you will have to take out 3 more screws located under the sticker on the backplate. I've never had any issues with my Eneloop batteries getting stuck and if they fit in they come out with just my thumb and finger for leverage (they are slightly girthier then standard batteries).

ifixit has some great pictures of the iPhone 7 internals you can compare to: https://www.ifixit.com/News/8409/iphone-7-and-7-plus-internals-wallpapers From personal experience I would check the cables (Specifically the ones under the loose panel) as they are very delicately connected without the screw panel holding them in place. By advice is to follow one of the ifixit step by step guides (iPhone 7) for reassembly and verify each cable and component is correctly hooked up. If this still doesn't work you might have a malfunctioning part (did the screen in fact get repaired from its original issue?). The goods news is that if you feel it getting warm when charging, the logic board and battery are likely working and you are just not seeing any output on the screen.

Having this same problem and did some research into trying to replace the Ember Mug internal battery. Another Reddit post I found (https://www.reddit.com/r/JamesHoffmann/c...) states in one of the comments by the OP: "This applies to only the travel mug - the regular mug is molded closed and can't be opened without destroying it" I also found the FCC page for the Ember Mug (https://fccid.io/2AILTCM17/Internal-Photos/Internal-Photos-3517267) that shows the Battery and other internal electronics but without a way to open the mug and replace it I'm not sure this information is useful... If the Mug ever stops working completely destroying it might be a risk I'm willing to take but for now it seems to be unrepairable.

I have seen a similar issue with other touchscreen devices. Most manufacturers offer a calibration program that is supposed to fix this issue (supposed to but doesn't always for me). Make sure the screen is cleaned properly since grime and dust can sometimes mess with the capacitive touch detection. Sometimes if you turn it off and clean it then use gloves or a thin cloth to configure the touch calibration it is less sensitive to atmospheric changes and statically charged dust. This can also be caused by a screen fault that necessitates the replacement of the screen (or you can just turn off the touch part of the display). I have sent so many devices back to the manufacture with this "Ghost" issue and it's never consistently clear what causes it.

Hi Ellamama Replacing the screen and digitizer is a solid idea; the part you specified also comes with the small forward facing components (camera, mic, speaker etc) . I repaired a phone that was dunked and the screen stopped working after the replacement the screen worked but siri didn't work and talking on the phone was intermittent because the front mic and speaker were damaged and did not get replaced. As far as the battery goes the water damage looks like it's on the opposite side from the battery connector so it probably did not reach the power circuitry. You could test it in another phone or with a meter. Your picture shows some clear residue from whatever was spilled on the phone... I think you should be able to determine how much of the phone is affected and if it needs cleaning. Personally if she has been using it in this state whatever is going to be damaged has been already and since it still works (mostly) nothing on the main logic boards has been compromised. If the phone is shutting off...