If it were me, I’d spray a bunch of electrical “contact cleaner” around the button while pressing (with it powered off) it repeatedly. I keep a can or two of that around all the time. It dissolves grease and grime and evaporates quickly. It that quick fix doesn’t work, you’ll have to disassemble and clean it out with a foam swab and that electric cleaner. Best of luck.

Daniel, lots could be happening here but my guess is that the DNS server IP address is being sent from your wifi router using something called DHCP. You can go into your wifi network settings and verify that DHCP should be the setting there. Depending on the router, you can check what the DNS server it is handing out is. Your Internet provider should have a preferred DNS server or two that the router is using and typically your laptop should point its DNS lookup to your router’s IP address (which is the “Default Gateway” address in your laptops Wifi setting). If your router is having issues with DNS, you can try setting your laptop’s dns to 8.8.8.8 (keep the other IP settings the same) to see if that works. If it does work, your router or ISP has a DNS problem and the ISP should be able to troubleshoot with you. Sorry if my answers are overly technical but hoping this is still helpful for you. Good luck!👍 When posting questions it is super helpful if you provide details like your laptop OS (Mac vs Windows)...

Debra, Unfortunately there are a few things that could be wrong, but I would start with the on/off switch. I have no idea what your technical abilities are, but if you can get access to it and use a multimeter set to Ohms, you can check if the switch (unplugged from the outlet please) to see if you get a different reading other than infinity when the switch is in one of the on positions. If you do, then I would check the motor brushes (which are under those screws on the side). There should be a spring in there that has to be properly aligned with the brush that pushes against the motor rotor itself. If you say that you took them out and cleaned them, I would suspect you maybe didn’t put them in with the springs properly aligned. And they should be cleaned with electrical contact cleaner (not soap), so go buy a can (an auto parts store would have some) and re-clean them, if needed, then carefully reinsert and see if that helps. The mixer is old enough, you may need to get replacement brushes and springs if...

Rutor, This almost certainly has to do with your coil or coil wires just based on your description of it happening after a rainfall. Since you just replaced the coil, let’s assume that is good. So, I’d suggest buying a new set of plug wires and the wire that goes from the coil to the distributor (if it is separate…sorry i don’t know this engine by heart). Or, the wire that feeds the coil (12VDC) might be shorting out. Best of luck.

Latreac, Knocking is classically caused by the gas igniting early in the cylinders. It can be caused by a number of things that area complex to diagnose, but if you search for “how to check timing on [your Kia year and model]” you might find some tips. There are also sensors on engines that help the car’s computer figure out when to fire the spark plugs at the exact right time. One of those sensors might be bad. Alternatively, you can try a high octane gas for a tank…higher octane gas has chemicals in it that slow the ignition of the gas reducing knock in higher performance engines that run at high compression. If it helps your knocking, then you almost certainly have a ‘pre ignition’ problem. Depending on how bad the knocking is, it could cause further damage to the engine, so you’ll want to continue to troubleshoot the problem until it is resolved, otherwise you might be looking for a new car (or engine?). Unfortunately, modern engines are pretty complicated and I would need a lot more information to...

Matt, You didn’t say, so I’m going to ask…are you turning off the choke after you start it and let it run for a few seconds? This sounds like the engine is running too rich after starting. You might want to also check the linkage between the choke lever and the choke plate itself. You might THINK you are turning the choke off but it still might be set. You can usually see the choke plate by removing the air filter housing (not just the air filter). It’s usually a butterfly plate that pivots 90 degrees when you “choke” the engine and should be parallel with the airflow when the choke is off. If that’s not it, you should replace and gap the spark plug (you said spark plugs…but I believe this engine only has 1). You’ll need a spark plug socket and a spark plug gap setting tool (they around $5). Someone should teach you how to do it the first time, as they are really sensitive. Note the old plug when it comes out, it should be dry and tan in color ideally. I little bit of dry black is ok too. Oily and black...

Nobita, I’ve seen this on a handful of mice and my Logitech (slightly different model) is starting to do something similar. I haven’t done this yet, but I’m wondering if you can just find the right high-quality tape and cover it up? It won’t look as good, but might be quite functional and only cost you a dime every few months and make it last a whole lot longer. I’m thinking maybe fabric tape? I’m sorry if this isn’t what you hoped but thought it might be a decent idea.

Hi Paul, Electric driers have a heating element that can fail and is pretty easy to test if you have a multi-meter. They create heat by passing a relatively large amount of current through a slightly resistive material. Start by just opening up the drier and check the connections…if you’re super lucky, the element wasn’t plugged in fully and just needs to be reseated. There is a partial guide that shows how to find the heating wires that I found on the site here. According to the guide, the element should read 10 Ohms, which also sounds right to me (they’re almost always less than 50 Ohms). If it reads infinite ohms, it burnt clear through and should be replaced (I’ve done it on a few driers and it’s not too difficult…usually a couple of screws). If it reads zero ohms, it shorted and should be replaced as well but my guess is that your breaker would trip when the heat tried to kick on and you didn’t mention that, so I think there’s a 90% chance your heating element needs to be replaced. Speed Queen...

Hi Mariann, Cracking typically is an “analog” issue, meaning it usually doesn’t have anything to do with the digital/wireless components in Bluetooth speakers. Unfortunately, it could be a lot of different spots that are causing it though. I’ll give you some general ideas that hopefully help. Personally, I haven’t disassembled a JBL Xtreme, so I can’t coach you there, but if it were mine, I’d take it apart (yes, I use iFixIt tools) and look for where there are the + and - (usually red and black, but not always) wires that feed the Right and Left speakers from the amplifier circuit (usually has some heavy transformers on it). I’d check the electrical connection by tracing them from the speakers to the amplifier output. Depending on what I found, I would re-solder them in place if they were loose. I would inspect the electronic circuitry on the amp. While it’s not impossible to repair an amplifier circuit, it’s pretty involved and would probably mean a new unit unless you are brave and very handy. My guess...

I’m assuming the leaking battery didn’t get into the body of the camera. If it did, you’ll want to open the body and clean it out using the same method below except DON’T use a screwdriver to get the corrosion off. Stick with a plastic brush. For the battery compartment: (1) Vacuum what you can out while you are using a small screwdriver to scrape the battery ends gently. Tap the camera body gently to knock the corrosion out (2) Use a Q Tip dipped in some rubbing alcohol and dab at the corrosion using a new Q Tip end every minute or so. (3) You’ll have to note if you removed the corrosion from the metal tabs (or springs) in the camera. If you didn’t, a small flat blade screwdriver should be used to clean it off and repeat #2 until the metal tabs are clean. (4) As long as you can see metal (it’s ok if it is copper looking beneath the chrome), a fresh battery should conduct power fine. Hope this helps to save that camera.