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Introduzione

Use this guide to replace or upgrade your hard drive.

    • With the hinge free to move, the iMac will be unbalanced and hard to work on. Repairs are fast and easy with an iMac service wedge, but can be completed without one.

    • If you are using the iFixit cardboard service wedge, follow these assembly directions to put it together.

    • Before beginning any work on your iMac: Unplug the computer and press and hold the power button for ten seconds to discharge the power supply's capacitors.

    • Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

    The wedge is an extremely tight fit for this model. I was worried that the amount of force needed to use it as shown might damage the stand, so I used it with the long side down instead. It worked fine that way and didn’t need anywhere near as much force to insert.

    roberttrevellyan - Replica

    Here’s a good YouTube vid on upgrading the RAM: Can a Normal Person Upgrade the RAM in the 2017 21.5" iMac?

    Dan - Replica

    Here are a couple tips from me:

    1) Expose the adhesive to extreme temperatures. I did this by transporting my iMac in my car, screen-down on a piece of cardboard on a cold February morning (in Chicago). When I went to pick up the iMac, the screen practically fell off the chassis. I would have been distraught by this if I hadn’t already planned this replacement. So it was a happy accident.

    2) Remember to expell the residual power from the power supply by pushing the power button while the iMac is unplugged. This does NOT guarantee it’s safe to touch, but when I accidentally brushed the solder and exposed capacitors, I didn’t get shocked.

    jerrid_foiles - Replica

    Instead of using the wedge, I placed the iMac faced up with the top side (web cam) facing me while I ran the pizza roller around. It worked out great!

    Sam Fung - Replica

    “All iMacs also come with a traditional hard drive” mine doesn’t!! it’s HDD bay is completely empty, no SATA cable or anything. I guess I’ll have to upgrade the PCIe SSD instead.

    Chris Hughes - Replica

    There is no replacement glass for this model, it is part of the LCD and impossible to remove or replace- the entire LCD has to be replaced unfortunately if the glass is cracked or damaged. You will have to Google search for a replacement. Also be careful with some of the lock tight tork screws as I broke one of my screw mounts taking one out.

    Phil Tesone - Replica

    I used this service wedge but also found it a very tight fit. The same stabilization can be achieved by using a big rolled up towel.

    Ernst - Replica

    While this is a good instruction guide, I recommend to also look at OWC’s instruction video about drive installation, before starting the exercise. Those install videos are very detailed and useful.

    Ernst - Replica

  1. Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear enclosure. The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert no more than 3/8" into the display. Otherwise, you risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage.
    • Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear enclosure.

    • The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert no more than 3/8" into the display. Otherwise, you risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage.

    Don’t get too worried about starting exactly where the picture says. The glue is stronger in some parts so just start wherever is easier and then work slowly and patiently around in the direction shown.

    Richard Cook - Replica

    As this guide doesn’t cover replacing the adhesive strips, I found referring to the following was useful (noting that it’s not for the same model of iMac, so the modification they mention wasn’t necessary): Sostituzione strisce adesive iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2544

    Alan Digby - Replica

    It is very easy to crack the glass in front of the LCD during this step. I used the guitar pick, maybe it was too thick… crack is just on the frame but anyway it is disappointing :(

    Nikolay - Replica

    This part of the exercise should be done with extreme patience. I took my sweet time with the opening tool, rolling it through the entire panel and enclosure gap over and over again, until I was very sure no parts were sticking together anymore. And when I thought I was I done, I decided to do it over again.

    Ernst - Replica

  2. Use the tool like a pizza cutter—roll it along through the gap, and it will cut the foam adhesive through the center. Be sure to always push with the handle behind the cutting wheel. If you pull, the wheel might get pulled out of the handle. Run the tool up along the left side of the display.
    • Use the tool like a pizza cutter—roll it along through the gap, and it will cut the foam adhesive through the center.

    • Be sure to always push with the handle behind the cutting wheel. If you pull, the wheel might get pulled out of the handle.

    • Run the tool up along the left side of the display.

    Erreur de traduction: "de bas en haut" et non de" haut en bas" sur le côté gauche de l'écran

    Moreau - Replica

    If re-opening a screen that was opened and re-attached using iFixit’s adhesive strips, I would strongly recommend heating it first with an iOpener, heat gun or hair dryer. 20 minutes after attaching with the iFixit adhesive I tried to open it again with the pizza slicer to fix something and cracked the screen on the left-hand side.

    plasticpool - Replica

  3. Continue running the tool up around the top left corner. Continue running the tool up around the top left corner. Continue running the tool up around the top left corner.
    • Continue running the tool up around the top left corner.

  4. Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display. Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display.
    • Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display.

  5. Continue along the top of the display. You may want to run the tool back and forth through what you've already cut a few times, to ensure you get as much of the adhesive separated as possible.
    • Continue along the top of the display.

    • You may want to run the tool back and forth through what you've already cut a few times, to ensure you get as much of the adhesive separated as possible.

    In this step can I cut along the display without make any damage to the front camera?

    arisnordico - Replica

    Hi! Actually - there is no need to cut the tape around the camera area - there is no tape to cut at all! And so, the way go is easy - just pass 10 mm to the left and to the right from camera and start cutting!

    P.S. Just did the whole procedure to replace a RAM and to add SSD on PSIe an hour ago! Seems to be different reading the instructions... you know - 2/10 and so on. But it's really not that hard, trust me. I'll give it 5/10.

    P.P.S. By the way there is one trick to pass the difficult steps. Any action which requires pulling smth (motherboard, speaker, power supply unit) from the narrow crack (or should i say - slit?) at the bottom of your Imac is really not so easy.

    And the trick is to first remove a thin metal stripe with some kind of insulation on it which held by 5 small (very small!!) screws at the bottom of your Imac. After you done it - it's easy to pull everything! Pay attention to the fact that one of this 5 screws at the center are more shortly than others.

    dv1977 - Replica

    After doing the replacement the adhesive still sticks quite good enough to hold the screen in place. Maybe this isn't rock-solid, but enough for me.

    Mirko - Replica

    I did all steps like this manuell but now the Display wont work only some colered strips are to see! Whats happend??

    Can anybody help me ? Maybe the connector cable is broken?

    djfanta - Replica

    Check both connectors, probably one of them not seated well

    pzhivulin -

    You can add a SATA SSD if you already have a PCIe SSD Factory?

    kaserlik - Replica

    If you're changing cracked EMC 2638 display to new assembly, there's two more steps:

    Step 24: Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.

    Carefully pull the display data cable from its socket on the display assembly.

    Step 25: Use the tip of a spudger to unplug bracket of the thermal sensor small cable near display data cable.

    Carefully remove scotch tape covering thermal sensor. Using iSesamo or flat tip of the spudger carefully peel the thermal sensor away.

    pzhivulin - Replica

    omg - forgot to switch the termal sensor from the old display...

    now fan runs like crazy...

    Andrei Balotescu -

    The key thing is to never put any force on the opening tool when working through the tape. Just roll it back and forth with ease.

    Ernst - Replica

  6. Push the tool around the top right corner of the display. Push the tool around the top right corner of the display. Push the tool around the top right corner of the display.
    • Push the tool around the top right corner of the display.

  7. Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display. Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display.
    • Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display.

  8. Finish pushing the opening tool to the bottom of the right side of the display. At this point, you'll want to run the tool back around the entire display, to ensure you cut as much adhesive as possible.
    • Finish pushing the opening tool to the bottom of the right side of the display.

    • At this point, you'll want to run the tool back around the entire display, to ensure you cut as much adhesive as possible.

    Yes, do it many times to loosen the adhesive.

    Noah Ralston - Replica

  9. While the opening tool cut most of the adhesive, the display will still be slightly adhered to the case. A plastic card will be necessary to free up the last of this adhesive. Set the iMac face-up on a table. Starting from the top right corner of the iMac, wedge a plastic card between the display and frame.
    • While the opening tool cut most of the adhesive, the display will still be slightly adhered to the case. A plastic card will be necessary to free up the last of this adhesive.

    • Set the iMac face-up on a table.

    • Starting from the top right corner of the iMac, wedge a plastic card between the display and frame.

    • Be careful not to insert the plastic card more than 3/8", or you may damage internal components.

    this step is extremely important NOT to stick in the cards too far….. doing so, you risk a 600 euro replacement as I experienced………

    Edgar Broekema - Replica

    I drew a 3/8” line on my cards with a marker first.

    Max Romano - Replica

    I’m reading this on the EU store, please change all measurements to cm/mm.

    Morgana Devina - Replica

    @ifixit The next batch of cards you create should have a line printed on the card 3/8” in from the edges. Would make a nice reference.

    Richard Giratd - Replica

    Here’s where OWC provides glass removal suction cups, which is a better solution than plastic cards.

    The suction cups help to easily lift the glass panel, without risking the damaging of any internal wiring that the plastic cards could cause.

    Ernst - Replica

    Better to remove stand wedge at this point? Can’t see from pics

    derekrobinson - Replica

  10. Gently twist the plastic card sideways to create a gap between the display and frame. Move slowly and be careful not to stress the display glass too much—you only need to make a gap of about 1/4".
    • Gently twist the plastic card sideways to create a gap between the display and frame.

    • Move slowly and be careful not to stress the display glass too much—you only need to make a gap of about 1/4".

    This part must be done very carefully or you can damage the flat cable from display, despite it was under a iron cover.

    Cassio Machado - Replica

  11. Slide the card toward the center of the display to cut any of the remaining adhesive along the top right corner of the iMac. Be sure to stop before the iSight camera, or you may damage it. Be sure to stop before the iSight camera, or you may damage it.
    • Slide the card toward the center of the display to cut any of the remaining adhesive along the top right corner of the iMac.

    • Be sure to stop before the iSight camera, or you may damage it.

    You don't need to do it like this, simply open the iMac bendidng the LCD completely and use the pizza cutter to remove the adhesive.

    Felix - Replica

    Agreed. The card is too thick to cut through the adhesive in this way. Use the pizza cutter or a sharper blade at this point.

    Max Romano -

    Using glass removal suction cups will avoid running this risk of damaging the camera (or any wiring).

    Ernst - Replica

  12. Wedge the plastic card into the top right corner once again, and leave it there to prevent the adhesive from resticking. Wedge the plastic card into the top right corner once again, and leave it there to prevent the adhesive from resticking.
    • Wedge the plastic card into the top right corner once again, and leave it there to prevent the adhesive from resticking.

  13. Insert a second plastic card into the gap between the display and frame near the top left corner of the iMac. Insert a second plastic card into the gap between the display and frame near the top left corner of the iMac. Insert a second plastic card into the gap between the display and frame near the top left corner of the iMac.
    • Insert a second plastic card into the gap between the display and frame near the top left corner of the iMac.

  14. Gently twist the card upward, slightly increasing the space between the display and frame. As with the other side, twist slowly to allow the adhesive time to separate, and be careful not to over-stress the display glass.
    • Gently twist the card upward, slightly increasing the space between the display and frame.

    • As with the other side, twist slowly to allow the adhesive time to separate, and be careful not to over-stress the display glass.

  15. Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera. Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera. Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera.
    • Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera.

  16. Wedge the plastic card back into the top left corner. Wedge the plastic card back into the top left corner.
    • Wedge the plastic card back into the top left corner.

  17. With both plastic cards inserted as shown near the corners, gently twist the cards sideways to increase the gap between display and case. If there are any sections that seem to stick and won't separate, stop twisting and use one of the cards to cut the remaining adhesive. Begin to lift the top of the display up from the frame.
    • With both plastic cards inserted as shown near the corners, gently twist the cards sideways to increase the gap between display and case.

    • If there are any sections that seem to stick and won't separate, stop twisting and use one of the cards to cut the remaining adhesive.

    • Begin to lift the top of the display up from the frame.

    • Only lift the display a few inches—the display data and power cables are still connected to the logic board.

  18. While holding the display up with one hand, use the other hand to unplug the display power cable. Lift the display up enough to have easy access to the connector, but not so much that you stretch the cables and stress their connections (about 8").
    • While holding the display up with one hand, use the other hand to unplug the display power cable.

    • Lift the display up enough to have easy access to the connector, but not so much that you stretch the cables and stress their connections (about 8").

    Pulling the display power cable by the wires makes me nervous..

    bstaud - Replica

    I had a small flight light ready so I could see. Follow the directions - don’t blindly pull.

    Noah Ralston - Replica

    Head lamp gives you the best hands free view!

    lamajr - Replica

    bstaud - The display power cable has two squeezable levers on each end of the cable’s width.

    Squeeze the left lever with your thumb while you simultaneously squeeze the right lever with your

    index finger, and gently pull the cable straight back and out, and the cable comes out very easily.

    Ted Horodynsky - Replica

    When reassembling, make sure you get a “click” confirmation that both the levers have locked AND the pins have seated on this connector. I was treated to a black screen upon startup, and had to re-cut my newly installed adhesive strips to get back in to firm up this connection. Better would be power up with the bottom adhesive in place, screen resting in place and held on top with blue painter tape to confirm connections, THEN pull off screen-side adhesive tape covers for final re-bonding.

    Robert McKillip - Replica

  19. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable. Carefully pull the display data cable from its socket on the logic board. Be sure to pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.

    • Carefully pull the display data cable from its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket.

    Sure could use a magnified picture of this connector and socket, especially the first time you go in. And it is the most critical step of the whole operation — bung it up and we’re toast.

    bstaud - Replica

    Hi bstaud! If you hover over the image you can click on the magnifying glass and get a large image of any guide photo. Hope that helps!

    Sam Goldheart -

    To clarify, the connector pulls out in the plane of the logic card, not perpendicular.

    David Thompson - Replica

  20. Lift the display up to a near-vertical position. At this point there is still a strip of adhesive along the bottom of the display, that will hold the display to the frame like a hinge. You can loosen this adhesive by working the display up and down a few times.
    • Lift the display up to a near-vertical position.

    • At this point there is still a strip of adhesive along the bottom of the display, that will hold the display to the frame like a hinge. You can loosen this adhesive by working the display up and down a few times.

    Where can I find a replacement display for my iMac?

    Braydon Boyce - Replica

    iFixit has listings for replacements. Go to the Parts section

    jerrid_foiles -

  21. Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply (boxed in red). Grasp the small tab at the end of one of the bottom edge display adhesive strips and pull the adhesive toward the top of the iMac to remove it. Repeat this step with the other adhesive strip and remove it.
    • Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply (boxed in red).

    • Grasp the small tab at the end of one of the bottom edge display adhesive strips and pull the adhesive toward the top of the iMac to remove it.

    • Repeat this step with the other adhesive strip and remove it.

    • If either adhesive strip breaks before it's removed, use a plastic card to slice through the remaining adhesive.

    Cutting through this extra adhesive on the bottom took a bit more effort than the step and picture implied (to me). Unlike the other edges, here don't be afraid to really push the card in there to break the seal, there's nothing behind that adhesive that is breakable.

    phil - Replica

    cutting through the adhesive is unnecessary if it's not been opened before (outside of an apple store) there will be a tab at the end of each VHB strip that you can use to simply pull the vhb strips off.

    Rory McKenna - Replica

    YES, exactly the same here. more but more simple.

    Lucio Alves -

    To save a few steps and a bit of time, if you have a helper, they can hold the display at a 90° angle while you unscrew the brackets and remove/replace the hard drive rather than remove the display entirely. Also reduces the likelihood of damaging the display as you remove and handle it.

    marty - Replica

    The proper way to remove the display according to the Macintosh tech manual and videos is as Rory McKenna and Lucio Alves have learned is to pull the tab at the end of each VHB strip until it is off.

    Ben Varela - Replica

    This worked great! look for small left over adhesive on either edge of the bottom of the screen and pull each one towards the center. Screen assembly removes after that with no fuss.

    Miguel Rivas -

  22. Lift the display up from the frame and remove it from the iMac. It may be necessary to slowly lift from one side, to peel against the remaining adhesive. Be very careful handling the display—it's big, heavy, and made of glass.
    • Lift the display up from the frame and remove it from the iMac.

    • It may be necessary to slowly lift from one side, to peel against the remaining adhesive.

    • Be very careful handling the display—it's big, heavy, and made of glass.

    • During reassembly, head over to our display adhesive guide to install the new adhesive.

  23. Remove the following screws securing the hard drive bracket to the rear enclosure:
    • Remove the following screws securing the hard drive bracket to the rear enclosure:

    • Two 21 mm T10 Torx screws from the left-hand hard drive bracket.

    • One 9 mm T10 Torx screw.

    • One 27 mm T10 Torx screw.

    Pay attention to this photo and where the fan is. It is 180° from where the previous step shows it is oriented to you.

    Max Romano - Replica

  24. Remove the left and right hard drive brackets from the iMac. Remove the left and right hard drive brackets from the iMac.
    • Remove the left and right hard drive brackets from the iMac.

  25. Lift the hard drive from the edge nearest the logic board and pull it slightly out of its recess. The hard drive is attached by a single SATA power/data cable—do not attempt to fully remove it from the iMac yet. The hard drive is attached by a single SATA power/data cable—do not attempt to fully remove it from the iMac yet.
    • Lift the hard drive from the edge nearest the logic board and pull it slightly out of its recess.

    • The hard drive is attached by a single SATA power/data cable—do not attempt to fully remove it from the iMac yet.

  26. Use a spudger to disconnect the single SATA power and data combo cable by gently prying its large plastic connector away from the hard drive. Use a spudger to disconnect the single SATA power and data combo cable by gently prying its large plastic connector away from the hard drive.
    • Use a spudger to disconnect the single SATA power and data combo cable by gently prying its large plastic connector away from the hard drive.

    When reconnecting the SATA cable, there is nothing to make the connector hold still, and it is hard to reach, so it took several tries. I ended up taking off the rubber baby buggy bumpers to get more room, and then jamming them back on after getting the SATA connector snugged up.

    bstaud - Replica

    If by rubber baby buggy bumper, you mean left speaker, then yes, I agree. Reinstall the hard drive before the left speaker.

    jerrid_foiles -

    Kudo to @jerrid_foiles! I was going crazy trying to attach the SATA cable until I took the two screws out of the left speaker and slid the top end of it aside by about 3/4 inch. Make the whole process SO MUCH easier!!

    jiclark - Replica

    We solved this by removing the hard drive tray screw, then inserting the cable into the SATA hard drive. Then hold the hard drive a bit out of the way to insert the 7.3mm hard drive tray screw.

    Marjie - Replica

    Agree with this method, found it an impossible task to reconnect the SATA connector until removed the tray screw, then it was relatively easy to reconnect and then replace the tray screw.

    daveedwards -

    Also agree with this method!

    jmorphett5 -

  27. Remove the hard drive assembly from the iMac.
    • Remove the hard drive assembly from the iMac.

    When reassembling, I found it easier to loosen the HD tray screw from Step 48 and pull the tray outwards from the left side in order to plug the SATA cable in more easily.

    Cool_Breeze - Replica

    Thanks! I, too, had a hard time reconnecting the SATA cable.

    boboswell -

    I found this helpful too!

    Anwar -

    And DON’T do what I did, which is to remove the left speaker - which can easily lead to breaking the cable between the power on button and the power supply. The cable is routed through a hidden slot at the very bottom of the left speaker

    bsmith1 - Replica

    I did loosen the speaker so I could get a tool behind the SATA cable to push it on to the SSD drive. Otherwise hard to align cable.

    Noah Ralston - Replica

    I found the easiest way to connect the SATA cable was to not screw the plastic hard drive tray down until you plug the drive in. That way you can easily push the connector in and due to the cable you’ve got some wiggle room. You can position the tray then just lift one end of the drive up and secure the screw. Then just push the drive down.

    Chris Caldwell - Replica

    This was the step that I had the most trouble with. I’m used to replacing a hard drive in a MacBook Pro, where the “plug” that you plug the drive into is a rigid thing that you can firmly press the hard drive into.

    With the iMac, the plug is situated on the end of a non-rigid cord, so the plug moves back when you try to snap a drive into it. Also, those two rubber gasket things that you adhere to the side of the drive really make it difficult to maneuver the now-overly-chubby drive towards the plug.

    After must frustration/concern, what I ended up doing was temporarily removing the rubber gasket things, using the “spudger” as kind of a lever behind the “plug on a cord” so that it didn’t move as much, and then pushed the gasket-less SSD into the plug.

    Once I got it connected, I put the rubber gaskets back on the sides of the SSD and kind of coaxed it down into place, using the pointy end of the spudger to get the chubby corner pieces to “sit” correctly in the rigid plastic tray that the SSD kind of rests in.

    Jack OnFlickr - Replica

    From another comment elsewhere on this repair, I *highly* recommend removing the two screws holding the left speaker in place, then sliding it just a tad out of the way to be able to easily attach the SATA cable. You don’t have to move it much to make the whole process so much easier!

    jiclark - Replica

  28. Peel the rubber hard drive bumpers up off the top and bottom edges of the hard drive. Peel the rubber hard drive bumpers up off the top and bottom edges of the hard drive.
    • Peel the rubber hard drive bumpers up off the top and bottom edges of the hard drive.

    Hi,

    I would like to change my standard HDD of 1To to a SSD following these instructions. All the SSD can be used like SSD Crucial BX100 500 Go or Crucial MX200 500 Go ?

    Thanks

    Denenden - Replica

    And Samsung 850 Evo, but you should think how to solve the cooler problem before you start, because there's no thermal cable in those SSD's.

    pzhivulin - Replica

    Hi, is it important to use a HDD as replacement/upgrade from the same manufacturer like it is on older iMacs with 3,5" HDD? I'm thinking of the thermal sensor (which isn't there in this case) and the hispeed fans issue. Any hints appreciated :)

    Mac - Replica

    there is a cable adapter you can buy with an inline thermal sensor on it to attach to the outside of the drive

    Dan -

    I was under the impressoin that this model, with it’s 2.5” drive, had no extra thermal issues like other older iMacs. Meaning you could just pop any other SATA 2.5” drive in there and the fans would operate normally.

    Other comments seem to imply this is not the case? I’ve never seen sensors or adapters for this model of Mac?

    John M - Replica

    You are correct, John. Per OWC Tech support, no thermal sensor cable needed for the 2.5” HDD, SDD on this 21.5” iMac.

    lamajr -

    I had to take out the 10 torr screw holding the bottom bracket done in order to get enough room to connect the new hard drive to the cable; before attaching bumpers

    provda - Replica

    thank you…easy repair

    rmolway1 - Replica

    I am so glad to discover that this process isn’t nearly as difficult as I thought it might be!! The hardest part is reattaching the SATA cable to the new hard drive, but removing the screws that hold the left speaker in place and sliding it aside just a tad makes it easy peasy!!

    jiclark - Replica

    It’s worth noting you may loosen q the left air Ram (plastic part) by removing the torx screws to gain extra access to the SATA cables if required.

    Andy Carver - Replica

    Does any formatting need to be done with the drive before installing? Or it’s a plug and go and MacOS will prompt the install?

    Phillip Ray - Replica

    any recommendations for the adhesive to use when re attaching the screen?

    Bryan Mclean - Replica

    there are “adhesive-strips” that you can buy from the ifixit-store

    Nicolas Spitzauer -

    +1 any recommendations for the adhesive to reattach the screen?

    Carlos Cervantes - Replica

Conclusione

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Sam Goldheart

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Super awesome instructions, As always easy to follow, swapped out he drive pretty quick. makes me miss the magnets for sure.

Justin Weathersbee - Replica

Guide was great, didn't take long at all. I hope the adhesive proceeds to stick now that I put the glass back on!

MITG - Replica

Be sure to position the screen all the way down on reassembly. I sort of tried to hinge it back, resulting in a little space of a fraction of a millimeter. Had to push the screen down when attaching the rest of it.

Daniel JB - Replica

Great instructions, I chose to purchase the adhesive strips from Ifixit and they worked great, much easier than trying to shape your own plus they stick really well.

Alan Petten - Replica

Great instructions. Is it possible to replace HD with a SSD Samsung EVO ?

thanks

Claudio Tumeo - Replica

I believe the EVO is what I used in my iMac at home, but it was a while ago and I honestly do not remember for certain. In my experience though you can replace an HDD with pretty much any SSD that meets your capacity requirements. Some have better specs than others, but ~any~ SSD is going to have alarmingly better performance than an HDD. I have totally revitalized three computers that would otherwise have been put out to pasture, by the simple act of replacing the hard drive with an SSD. Working on an iMac is a bit more daunting than many others, but following these instructions, and being very "Zen" about it, taking your time, having the tools and materials laid out and ready at hand, being focused and not rushed, should result in a great upgrade, and a computer better than new.

Keith Gardner -

So on this model we don't need to worry about a thermal sensor or the fan going into overdrive after swapping the drive?

alyssaengleson - Replica

That's is correct :)

Daniel JB -

Great guide. One thing I did on the reassembly was to loosen the speaker next to the drive bay so that I could get my fat fingers in to push the SATA connector onto the new drive.

Good job!

James Metcalfe - Replica

Step 21 is a little nerve wracking … however, if you look closely, each corner had a small section of tape that looked like a starter strip. If you pull that up and then, once loosened, pull toward you - the entire strip of tape will come off making the display removal very simple.

Joe Husk - Replica

Yes. Buy the adhesive strips, and the tools, so you don’t have to stop and scrounge around the shop/basement/house/office for tool-equivalents.

bstaud - Replica

Very apprehensive at first when taking on upgrading my iMac 21.5” Late 2013 Hard Drive with a Samsung Evo 860 SSD. Followed this hard drive replacement/ upgrade guide, plus the ‘clone and existing drive’ and ‘how to re-apply your iMac display’ and had it done with 2 hours. Fantastic guides, easy to follow and carry out. Thank you.

Nicholas Lake - Replica

Upgraded my 2014 iMac to an SSD and Its so much easier than I thought it would be. From start to finish the teardown was complete in about 30 min. The wheel and cards worked perfectly and the adhesive was easy to use. I like tearing this one down better than the older iMac. No screws or magnets to deal with.

Joe Henry - Replica

Good instructions!

Thanks

dani - Replica

Hi, dont you need to replace / substitute the thermal sensor? thanks

Christian Fleckl - Replica

No, there's no need on this model!

Daniel JB -

Awesome.. was about to upgrade my ram but used SSD as external and seems fast.. going to follow the instruction and replace with Samsung Evo 860

Crazy Punk - Replica

Would you mind linking me to the specific Samsung Evo 860 you used? I think I’m going to attempt this switch, and a RAM upgrade too, but I don’t want to get the wrong model!

Thanks

Daniel Hearn -

unscrewing the speaker to shift out of the way makes plugging in the new hard drive much easier.

Phillip Ray - Replica

With the tools from iFixit I encountered no problems, not even the ones mentioned in some comments. Everything worked fine. Just make sure to carefully reattach the display cables and keep their plugs clean.

Bachsau - Replica

do you need a special ssd disc to make it fit in the iMac or can i just buy a Samsung ssd?

Oynes - Replica

Very good guide. Just what i needed

Susanna verner - Replica

Hi after installation what do we do with the hard drive? Does it need formatting and installing OS?

Double C - Replica

2013 iMac. What if you replaced it with an SSD? Anything extra needed?

Danny Hoover - Replica

Hi, there isn't hard drive temperature sensor like previous iMac 2009 or 2010?

Thank you.

Domenico - Replica

These are great instructions. Combined with the correct tools from iFixit, it’s a snap. Thanks!!

Jeff - Replica

The hardest part was replacing the adhesive. I wish there was a link for those instructions. Also, I would like to see links for instructions on the software side- how to get the computer working again. Thanks

Catherine B - Replica

I am upgrading my Imac 27inch 2013 to a ssd drive. Do I need to buy the sensor lead. Been reading somewhere and I dont need to buy the sensor lead as its only for older Imac’s.

Michael Hancock - Replica

Are the screen suctions cups no longer an option for repairing iMacs? I’ve done older ones that had the outer glass held in with magnets. They were easy to remove. I can’t believe there were 18 steps on this iMac with using the wheel and the cars before you could lift the screen. Getting intimidated.

subscriptions - Replica

Tutoriel avec descriptions vraiment minutieuses. Pour ma part, j’ai utilisé une roulette ordinaire du commerce (Rotary Cutter Ø45 mm) dont la lame ne dépasse que de 5-6 mm la butée et des écarteurs découpés dans un plat de couverture GBC (épaisseur 0.8 mm) en leur donnant une forme plus longue que le côté d’une carte de crédit. En plus, avec un “hot air gun” j’ai chauffé avec précaution le bord de l’écran pour ramollir le joint. Tout a bien fonctionné.

Jean-Pierre BRUPBACHER - Replica

bonjour,

La colle (autocollant double face) est répartie uniformément tout autour de l’écran.

Le pouvoir collant est lié à la surface de colle (le périmètre autour de l’écran).

L’intérêt et objet de la coupe latérale (avec un objet) est qu’il vient séparer la “colle” physiquement, presque sans aucun effort (et correspond à la perpendiculaire du pouvoir collant (force et intérêt recherché par la pose de la colle)).

L’opération consiste donc à couper et lever (désolidariser) légèrement l’écran de la structure aluminium afin que la colle ne reprenne pas.

L’usage de la chaleur va faire perdre le pouvoir collant du scotch.

Problème : la chauffe des éléments comporte des risques, aussi je ne recommande pas tellement l’air chaud ici (difficile à maitriser si pas d’outils adapté = mesure température).

A vous de voir le bénéfice risque.

Le pb est que souvent la manipulation est exécutée par une personne pour la première fois, et plus jamais ensuite.

Donc le processus d’apprentissage manuelle est limitée (coup de main).

Sébastien -

Doing this and not using an actual Apple hard drive will not turn out well in the end. A thermal sensor is needed to control the fan speed which I believe the fan is regulated if you have an actual apple HD. OWC sales the thermal sensors but they have none for the late 2012 - 21.5, the 27inch they do have it.

QuickTech - Replica

Hello I have Time Capsule backup and iMac is running Catalina. How can I re install the operating system in the new SSD after this disk replacement? Thanks a lot.

Santiago Enciso - Replica

Very easy process, just takes a little patience. I can highly recommend the bundle set they do with Hard drive etc as this helped no end and also gives you new adhesive tape for re sealing the device which you will need. Very happy and glad to get rid of that awful 5400RPM hard drive. This iMac is now 7 years old and now out performs my 2019 i5 Surface Book 2 for boot up speed.

jimbobcook - Replica

A little intimidating at first, but turned out well, was simple to follow with no issues along the way. Very satisfied with the outcome and the mac is useable again. Performance uplift is huge and most of all I can get many more years out of the device.

Rostislav Troyak - Replica

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