Can someone confirm that the "Mac mini dual drive kit" linked to in the reply is what you need to add a hard drive to an SSD only 2014 Mac mini? The page for that kit says it is for 2011 and 2012 Mac minis, it doesn't mention the 2014 at all.
I'm curious about the opposite of this. If I buy a 2014 Mac mini new from Apple with only a 256 GB SSD installed, will I be able to open it up and toss a hard drive in the empty hard drive bay? In the past (2012 mini), you've needed a kit that consisted of just a cable, and some mounting screws & grommets. What is needed with the current Mac mini? Or does it come with the cables and grommets ready to go?
Do the new batteries (purchased from this site) come with the screws? I need a new battery and the pentalobes are stripped. I was just able to get them out and they really shouldn't be reused.
This process was actually a lot easier and faster than it looks. I was able to skip steps 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 because the old battery was expanding and was pushing the screen out. I was easily able to pop it out with just my fingernail.
I also skipped steps 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 and left the screen attached the whole time. These parts are fragile and if you've never done anything like this before, you probably want to remove it. But I've been fixing Mac computers for many years so it was a piece of cake for me to leave it attached and work carefully and deliberately.
I did not need steps 23 or 24 because pulling the glue off via the two tabs was fully successful and the battery came right out after steps 21 & 22.
It looks like you could skip the entire battery removal procedure if you simply left the trackpad cable in place, disconnected it at the trackpad end, and used the old cable on the new trackpad?
I fix Macs for a living and every single time I try to pull the tabs for 4R and 4L, the red tabs peel right off and i have to fight to peel the backing off without any tab. Every time.
On the iMac I’m upgrading right now, the bottom left screw in this picture had a black adhesive sticker over the screw. It was round and the size of the screw head, but it blocked you from getting a driver into it. I had to peel it off.
Of all the parts of this entire procedure, replacing this one piece is the hardest part! The screws are tiny and they just don’t seem to want to grab the support piece. Also it seems to perform no function which is also annoying.
Sometimes, the blue pull tabs tear off, rather than pulling the adhesive cover off. You will be holding the display in your hands when this happens, so just take a deep breath, and try to peel back the white cover with your fingernail of your free hand.
I just tried this on my 2009 Mac Pro. Everthing seems to go according to plan. The helper utility runs, does it’s thing, then tells me to shutdown. But when I hold the power button to start back up and actually run the firmware update…. nothing happens. That is, it boots normally, no updater. I’ve held the button till if flashes, I’ve held the button till I got the tone. But no matter what, it just boots normally. This machine is running 10.9 btw.
7 years later, this monitor is long since discontinued but still the last monitor apple has made. They sell mac minis and mac pros with no matching displays at all, only 3rd party displays and adapters. And those mac minis I mentioned are a 4 year old model, and the mac pro is a 5 year old model.
I was under the impressoin that this model, with it’s 2.5” drive, had no extra thermal issues like other older iMacs. Meaning you could just pop any other SATA 2.5” drive in there and the fans would operate normally.
Other comments seem to imply this is not the case? I’ve never seen sensors or adapters for this model of Mac?
Pretty straight forward, easy to do… except the screws are so tiny. Even my 000 philips was a little tough to work.
My battery was stuck in pretty good. What I did was put the base of the phone behind a mac pro for 15 minutes or so. That heated it up real nice and made it very easy to pry the battery right out.
This process was actually a lot easier and faster than it looks. I was able to skip steps 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 because the old battery was expanding and was pushing the screen out. I was easily able to pop it out with just my fingernail.
I also skipped steps 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 and left the screen attached the whole time. These parts are fragile and if you've never done anything like this before, you probably want to remove it. But I've been fixing Mac computers for many years so it was a piece of cake for me to leave it attached and work carefully and deliberately.
I did not need steps 23 or 24 because pulling the glue off via the two tabs was fully successful and the battery came right out after steps 21 & 22.
It looks like you could skip the entire battery removal procedure if you simply left the trackpad cable in place, disconnected it at the trackpad end, and used the old cable on the new trackpad?
I fix Macs for a living and every single time I try to pull the tabs for 4R and 4L, the red tabs peel right off and i have to fight to peel the backing off without any tab. Every time.
On the iMac I’m upgrading right now, the bottom left screw in this picture had a black adhesive sticker over the screw. It was round and the size of the screw head, but it blocked you from getting a driver into it. I had to peel it off.
Of all the parts of this entire procedure, replacing this one piece is the hardest part! The screws are tiny and they just don’t seem to want to grab the support piece. Also it seems to perform no function which is also annoying.
Sometimes, the blue pull tabs tear off, rather than pulling the adhesive cover off. You will be holding the display in your hands when this happens, so just take a deep breath, and try to peel back the white cover with your fingernail of your free hand.
I just tried this on my 2009 Mac Pro. Everthing seems to go according to plan. The helper utility runs, does it’s thing, then tells me to shutdown. But when I hold the power button to start back up and actually run the firmware update…. nothing happens. That is, it boots normally, no updater. I’ve held the button till if flashes, I’ve held the button till I got the tone. But no matter what, it just boots normally. This machine is running 10.9 btw.
Any suggestions?
“The future is looking bright”…
7 years later, this monitor is long since discontinued but still the last monitor apple has made. They sell mac minis and mac pros with no matching displays at all, only 3rd party displays and adapters. And those mac minis I mentioned are a 4 year old model, and the mac pro is a 5 year old model.
The future looked bright. It was an illusion.
I was under the impressoin that this model, with it’s 2.5” drive, had no extra thermal issues like other older iMacs. Meaning you could just pop any other SATA 2.5” drive in there and the fans would operate normally.
Other comments seem to imply this is not the case? I’ve never seen sensors or adapters for this model of Mac?
Pretty straight forward, easy to do… except the screws are so tiny. Even my 000 philips was a little tough to work.
My battery was stuck in pretty good. What I did was put the base of the phone behind a mac pro for 15 minutes or so. That heated it up real nice and made it very easy to pry the battery right out.
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Prossimo