Confirmed. Re-did the adhesive cutting the whole for the mic. I got the opposite piece (4L) too because I wasn’t sure if that was also a mic hole. Sounds is great now.
Can someone confirm that the "Mac mini dual drive kit" linked to in the reply is what you need to add a hard drive to an SSD only 2014 Mac mini? The page for that kit says it is for 2011 and 2012 Mac minis, it doesn't mention the 2014 at all.
I'm curious about the opposite of this. If I buy a 2014 Mac mini new from Apple with only a 256 GB SSD installed, will I be able to open it up and toss a hard drive in the empty hard drive bay? In the past (2012 mini), you've needed a kit that consisted of just a cable, and some mounting screws & grommets. What is needed with the current Mac mini? Or does it come with the cables and grommets ready to go?
Do the new batteries (purchased from this site) come with the screws? I need a new battery and the pentalobes are stripped. I was just able to get them out and they really shouldn't be reused.
NOTE: As said in other comments, the 2017 and newer iMacs need you to cut a section out of 4L, otherwise it will block the microphone hole and you will get no sound from the Mic. It’s easy enough to do but if you don’t know to do it, you’ll need a whole new set of adhesives to do this process all over again.
I’d like to second this. Screw in the four logic board screws very loosley. Then make sure all the cables are where they should be. Then push the bottom of the board back until you feel it snap into place. Then tighten the four screws. At this point, before going any further, test out all the ports with some plugs to make sure everything goes in nice and easy.
Confirmed from the Apple service manual. Slide the cover 1/4” to the right and lift it off. This instruction should be updated. You’re going to mangle the $@$* out of your cover trying to do it this way.
I can’t get pad this step. When I try to install the app with Impactor, I always get an error 71, with an error message that is just a line of code, not an actual error description. This is on an iPad 2.
This process was actually a lot easier and faster than it looks. I was able to skip steps 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 because the old battery was expanding and was pushing the screen out. I was easily able to pop it out with just my fingernail.
I also skipped steps 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 and left the screen attached the whole time. These parts are fragile and if you've never done anything like this before, you probably want to remove it. But I've been fixing Mac computers for many years so it was a piece of cake for me to leave it attached and work carefully and deliberately.
I did not need steps 23 or 24 because pulling the glue off via the two tabs was fully successful and the battery came right out after steps 21 & 22.
It looks like you could skip the entire battery removal procedure if you simply left the trackpad cable in place, disconnected it at the trackpad end, and used the old cable on the new trackpad?
I fix Macs for a living and every single time I try to pull the tabs for 4R and 4L, the red tabs peel right off and i have to fight to peel the backing off without any tab. Every time.
On the iMac I’m upgrading right now, the bottom left screw in this picture had a black adhesive sticker over the screw. It was round and the size of the screw head, but it blocked you from getting a driver into it. I had to peel it off.
Of all the parts of this entire procedure, replacing this one piece is the hardest part! The screws are tiny and they just don’t seem to want to grab the support piece. Also it seems to perform no function which is also annoying.
NOTE: As said in other comments, the 2017 and newer iMacs need you to cut a section out of 4L, otherwise it will block the microphone hole and you will get no sound from the Mic. It’s easy enough to do but if you don’t know to do it, you’ll need a whole new set of adhesives to do this process all over again.
I’d like to second this. Screw in the four logic board screws very loosley. Then make sure all the cables are where they should be. Then push the bottom of the board back until you feel it snap into place. Then tighten the four screws. At this point, before going any further, test out all the ports with some plugs to make sure everything goes in nice and easy.
Confirmed from the Apple service manual. Slide the cover 1/4” to the right and lift it off. This instruction should be updated. You’re going to mangle the $@$* out of your cover trying to do it this way.
^ Clearly there needs to be a report button on comments because of shithead spammers like jinn dev
I can’t get pad this step. When I try to install the app with Impactor, I always get an error 71, with an error message that is just a line of code, not an actual error description. This is on an iPad 2.
This process was actually a lot easier and faster than it looks. I was able to skip steps 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 because the old battery was expanding and was pushing the screen out. I was easily able to pop it out with just my fingernail.
I also skipped steps 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 and left the screen attached the whole time. These parts are fragile and if you've never done anything like this before, you probably want to remove it. But I've been fixing Mac computers for many years so it was a piece of cake for me to leave it attached and work carefully and deliberately.
I did not need steps 23 or 24 because pulling the glue off via the two tabs was fully successful and the battery came right out after steps 21 & 22.
It looks like you could skip the entire battery removal procedure if you simply left the trackpad cable in place, disconnected it at the trackpad end, and used the old cable on the new trackpad?
I fix Macs for a living and every single time I try to pull the tabs for 4R and 4L, the red tabs peel right off and i have to fight to peel the backing off without any tab. Every time.
On the iMac I’m upgrading right now, the bottom left screw in this picture had a black adhesive sticker over the screw. It was round and the size of the screw head, but it blocked you from getting a driver into it. I had to peel it off.
Of all the parts of this entire procedure, replacing this one piece is the hardest part! The screws are tiny and they just don’t seem to want to grab the support piece. Also it seems to perform no function which is also annoying.
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