Can someone confirm that the "Mac mini dual drive kit" linked to in the reply is what you need to add a hard drive to an SSD only 2014 Mac mini? The page for that kit says it is for 2011 and 2012 Mac minis, it doesn't mention the 2014 at all.
I'm curious about the opposite of this. If I buy a 2014 Mac mini new from Apple with only a 256 GB SSD installed, will I be able to open it up and toss a hard drive in the empty hard drive bay? In the past (2012 mini), you've needed a kit that consisted of just a cable, and some mounting screws & grommets. What is needed with the current Mac mini? Or does it come with the cables and grommets ready to go?
Do the new batteries (purchased from this site) come with the screws? I need a new battery and the pentalobes are stripped. I was just able to get them out and they really shouldn't be reused.
I made the mistake of powering the phone on once the new battery was connected to make sure it was working, before I put the screen back on. Now my home button doesn’t work, even after two hard resets. Anyone know how I can get it working again? Note I didn’t disconnect the screen or taptic engine or anything else. I just left the screen hinged 90°, the only connector I touched was the battery connector.
The screw and clip came un done and i don’t know how any of you managed to get that laughably small clip and screw back together. After hours of trying, I gave up. It’s not worth this much hassle just to fix up an old iphone. You’d have to be a &&^&^$^ robot to be able to put a screw that tiny through a loop, force it into a clip, then line it up with a screw hole. All without using your fingers because your fingers are 500x the size of the head of the screw. I wish I didn’t just waste money buying a new screen and battery for this old phone.
No luck, the port seems to be wedged in behind the computer’s hinge. But you need to remove USBC port BEFORE you remove the display. Soooooooo any other tips?
The screws on the hinge aren’t in the way, it’s hitting right up near the edge of the computer itself.
NOTE: As said in other comments, the 2017 and newer iMacs need you to cut a section out of 4L, otherwise it will block the microphone hole and you will get no sound from the Mic. It’s easy enough to do but if you don’t know to do it, you’ll need a whole new set of adhesives to do this process all over again.
I’d like to second this. Screw in the four logic board screws very loosley. Then make sure all the cables are where they should be. Then push the bottom of the board back until you feel it snap into place. Then tighten the four screws. At this point, before going any further, test out all the ports with some plugs to make sure everything goes in nice and easy.
Confirmed from the Apple service manual. Slide the cover 1/4” to the right and lift it off. This instruction should be updated. You’re going to mangle the $@$* out of your cover trying to do it this way.
This process was actually a lot easier and faster than it looks. I was able to skip steps 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 because the old battery was expanding and was pushing the screen out. I was easily able to pop it out with just my fingernail.
I also skipped steps 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 and left the screen attached the whole time. These parts are fragile and if you've never done anything like this before, you probably want to remove it. But I've been fixing Mac computers for many years so it was a piece of cake for me to leave it attached and work carefully and deliberately.
I did not need steps 23 or 24 because pulling the glue off via the two tabs was fully successful and the battery came right out after steps 21 & 22.
I made the mistake of powering the phone on once the new battery was connected to make sure it was working, before I put the screen back on. Now my home button doesn’t work, even after two hard resets. Anyone know how I can get it working again? Note I didn’t disconnect the screen or taptic engine or anything else. I just left the screen hinged 90°, the only connector I touched was the battery connector.
So this is it. You don’t have to go any further removing the screen. You can replace the battery right from this point.
The screw and clip came un done and i don’t know how any of you managed to get that laughably small clip and screw back together. After hours of trying, I gave up. It’s not worth this much hassle just to fix up an old iphone. You’d have to be a &&^&^$^ robot to be able to put a screw that tiny through a loop, force it into a clip, then line it up with a screw hole. All without using your fingers because your fingers are 500x the size of the head of the screw. I wish I didn’t just waste money buying a new screen and battery for this old phone.
No luck, the port seems to be wedged in behind the computer’s hinge. But you need to remove USBC port BEFORE you remove the display. Soooooooo any other tips?
The screws on the hinge aren’t in the way, it’s hitting right up near the edge of the computer itself.
Step 25 only has one pic
NOTE: As said in other comments, the 2017 and newer iMacs need you to cut a section out of 4L, otherwise it will block the microphone hole and you will get no sound from the Mic. It’s easy enough to do but if you don’t know to do it, you’ll need a whole new set of adhesives to do this process all over again.
I’d like to second this. Screw in the four logic board screws very loosley. Then make sure all the cables are where they should be. Then push the bottom of the board back until you feel it snap into place. Then tighten the four screws. At this point, before going any further, test out all the ports with some plugs to make sure everything goes in nice and easy.
Confirmed from the Apple service manual. Slide the cover 1/4” to the right and lift it off. This instruction should be updated. You’re going to mangle the $@$* out of your cover trying to do it this way.
^ Clearly there needs to be a report button on comments because of shithead spammers like jinn dev
This process was actually a lot easier and faster than it looks. I was able to skip steps 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 because the old battery was expanding and was pushing the screen out. I was easily able to pop it out with just my fingernail.
I also skipped steps 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 and left the screen attached the whole time. These parts are fragile and if you've never done anything like this before, you probably want to remove it. But I've been fixing Mac computers for many years so it was a piece of cake for me to leave it attached and work carefully and deliberately.
I did not need steps 23 or 24 because pulling the glue off via the two tabs was fully successful and the battery came right out after steps 21 & 22.
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