Introduzione
Rimuovere lo schermo richiede il taglio dell'adesivo attorno al perimetro dello schermo. Dopo averlo tagliato, l'adesivo non può più essere usato per reincollare lo schermo, quindi dovrai applicare un nuovo set di strisce adesive.
Questa guida ti mostrerà come sostituire le strisce adesive sulla maggior parte degli iMac Intel da 21,5". Alcune immagini in questa guida mostrano un vecchio iMac, che ha delle differenze visive minori. Queste differenze non influiscono sulla procedura di riparazione.
Cosa ti serve
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Attrezzo utilizzato in questo passaggio:iMac Intel 21.5" Cardboard Service Wedge$4.99
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Con la copertura posteriore libera di muoversi, l'iMac non sarà bilanciato e sarà difficile lavorarci. Posiziona un supporto per iMac sulla base per bloccare la copertura.
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Attrezzo utilizzato in questo passaggio:Tweezers$4.99
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Se stai reinstallando lo schermo originale, dovrai rimuovere l'adesivo originale anche dal retro dello schermo.
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Rimuovi l'adesivo originale usando delle pinzette o le dita. Inizia sulla parte inferiore e tiralo verso l'alto, verso la parte superiore del dispositivo.
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Dopo aver rimosso tutto l'adesivo originale, pulisci attentamente i residui di adesivo con dell'alcool isopropilico ad alta concentrazione (>90%) e un panno senza lanugine. Fai scorrere il panno in una sola direzione, non in avanti e indietro.
The aluminum frame have a plastic zone. Could the isopropyl alcohol damage the plastic surface?
Hello! Isopropyl alcohol should not damage the plastic surface.
It’s not clear if you’re supposed to remove the black strips under the adhesives from the screen. Sometimes they come off when removing the main adhesives, but they seem to be two separate layers.
Only the adhesive should be removed—the black strips underneath them should stay in place.
“Only the adhesive should be removed—the black strips underneath them should stay in place.”
By fault I’ve removed the black strips, now there is a gap between the glass and the aluminum frame in the bottom.
the display is perfectly pasted, it’s only a matter of appearance…
If I open the computer again, what kind of adhesive tape (caption tape?) could I use to eliminate the gap between the glass and the frame?
Or it’s better to let it go…
Thanks for your support
Hi Massimiliano ,
You should be fine. The bottom edge doesn’t have black strips. It should be bare metal. However, there shouldn’t be any gaps between the glass and the frame. Make sure that the adhesive is fully adhered on the bottom edge.
Hi Arthur,
my English is not perfect…
I would mean that I removed all the black strips under the adhesives on the screen; so I believe that the glass has become too thin compared to the bottom aluminium frame.
I thought to open the Mac again and put some black strips to increase the thickness of the glass screen but I don’t know what kind of tape I should use (Kapton or other?).
And then I will put a new set of ifixit adhesives strips.
Maybe it’s a waste of time… it’ s only an aesthetic matter
Thanks again
Thanks for the clarification. Since there is always a chance to crack the screen glass when cutting the adhesive, I’d suggest not to open up the iMac again. However, if you do open it, I suggest using Tesa tape.
Thanks Arthur,
I will follow your suggestion… I will not open again my computer…
Now it works very well and fast.
So, the bit about the adhesive strips really needs to be clarified. Nowhere in the instructions is there talk about multiple layers of adhesive, one that should be removed and one that should remain. And looking at the pictures further on, clearly the wider sections where the adhesive go are completely clean of any black strips. However, on the screen side, I’ve noted that indeed there are two layers, at least on the top. And removing both layers leads to the adhesive *not* really taking hold and the screens falling out. Really wish this had been clearer. I’ve helped dozens of people upgrade their iMac but after the first time that I had to replace a screen due to it falling and breaking, I’ve been using clear strong adhesive tape externally on the corners to ensure that the screen stays in place. Ugly, but better than the risk.
Are you sure there are 2 layers of tape? My replacement tape comes with the sections that sticks over the 2x antenna sections on the right side of the screen (looking at the screen). The old tape has antenna section left over because only the thinner edge part was cut so that section separated.
Furthermore, the replacement tape on the antenna section is only sticky on 1 side (facing the chassis) and no sticky surface to the screen (other than the thin 5-6mm width edge like the rest of the none antenna section.
As for falling off, I'm guessing there are 1. cheap tapes that looks the part but don't stick as well 2. surfaces not cleaned and primed 3) 2 top corner breathing channel (hot air rise and go out there) got sealed off as Step 6 below + pulling and stretching the tape sealed off that channel. Happened to me the first time, had to cut back to expose the air channel. On subsequent efforts, didn't pull to stretch the tape. Went gradually a couple of inches at a time so the tape don't stretch.
Howard -
I too started removing the second layer of adhesive strips before reading these comments. PLEASE update the article to reflect that the other black strips should stay!
A few key notes
2 top corners have air gaps to let the hot air out. When applying the new tapes, its easy to stretch the tape and seal this hole using the method outlined below. Best to go slowly small section at a time to avoid stretching the tape. 2 people is helpful.
Before peeling the tape facing the LCD, its good to mount the LCD with masking tape (avoid covering mic holes) to test everything. I like to use Photo Booth and record a video to ensure camera and mics are all working properly.
2 people also helpful on the final reseal. I like to stand the iMac up vertically so can power on and do final check after LCD connection before reseal. The screen is pivots on the bottom edge and iMac chassis is wobbly on its stand so 2 people is helpful. For final check, I like to make sure screen powers on and display shows before final reseal.
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Se la tua striscia 4R non ha questa rientranza, segui questa guida.
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Prima di iniziare, appoggia sul tavolo le strisce adesive nella disposizione corretta in modo da non applicare accidentalmente una striscia nella posizione sbagliata:
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Striscia 01 in alto a sinistra
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Striscia 02 in alto a destra
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Striscia 03 sul lato destro
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Striscia 4R in basso a destra, con il bordo scuro rivolto verso l'alto
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Striscia 4L in basso a sinistra, con il bordo scuro rivolto verso l'alto
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Striscia 05 sul lato sinistro
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Inizia con la striscia 03, che va sul lato destro verticale del case posteriore.
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Afferra la linguetta blu e rimuovi il pezzo corto della pellicola protettiva dal retro della striscia per esporre una porzione di adesivo da incollare al case.
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Infila la punta di uno spudger nel foro all'estremità della striscia dove hai appena rimosso uno strato di pellicola protettiva posteriore. Infila lo spudger dal lato che ha ancora la protezione bianca.
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Con lo spudger che sporge dal foro nella striscia adesiva, spingi la punta dello spudger nel foro corrispondente nella cornice deell'iMac.
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Usando il foro e lo spudger come punto fisso della striscia, allineala contro il bordo destro, tirandola delicatamente verso l'alto per assicurarti che sia tesa, quindi incollala alla cornice.
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Continua in senso antiorario lungo il perimetro dell'iMac, incollando altre tre strisce adesive come fatto per la prima:
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Striscia 02 in alto a destra
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Striscia 01 in alto a sinistra
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Striscia 05 sul lato sinistro
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Afferra la linguetta rossa sulla striscia 4R e tirala per rimuovere circa 5 cm della pellicola protettiva bianca posteriore.
These steps instruct you to install the lower strips to the iMac frame first, as that is what Apple instructs their techs to do. If you have an iMac without a microphone hole, you can choose to install the lower strips onto the display first. Peel the blue tab instead of the red to expose the adhesive. Carefully place the adhesive along the bottom edge of the display. The L-bend on the adhesive should match the display contours.
i have no microphone hole - which is good . . . because the 4R and 4L stips must be labelled incorrectly as the L’s are on the wrong side. Also the strips don’t completely cover the bottom. And there are no holes in these strips making placement less secure. Someone certainly goofed. (Reckon I’ll use snipped off L’s to cover the open space.
Ah, the L strips don’t overlap - so they’re long enuf, but they are still reversed.
Die Löcher in den Klebestreifen passen nicht (mehr) zu den Löchern im Rahmen. Ich habe mich an den breiten Stellen orientiert und die Klebestreifen daran ausgerichtet. Das ging besser.
The holes in the adhesive strips no longer match the holes in the frame. I oriented myself towards the wide areas and aligned the adhesive strips with them. That worked better.
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Allinea la striscia al bordo inferiore posizionando la rientranza nella striscia sopra il foro del microfono.
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Se il tuo iMac non ha un foro per il microfono, allinea l'estremità destra della striscia in modo che la curva a L sia accanto alla striscia verticale sul lato destro. La curva a L non deve sovrapporsi alla striscia adesiva verticale sul lato destro.
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Una volta allineata la striscia, incolla attentamente l'adesivo esposto alla cornice per assicurarne l'allineamento.
The strips that I received from OWC do not have a notch cut out for the microphone. The instructions advise you, for 2017 and later 21.5” iMacs, to cut about 2 inches off from the left side of the strip so you do not cover the microphone hole.
As far as the remaining 2 inches I cut off, I snipped off a little more on the right side to leave a small gap for the microphone and placed that small remaining part in the center where it should have been if there was no microphone, just to complete the adhesive.
I have done quite a few of these now. It is easier to apply the bottom strips to the Display, rather than the housing. With the Red tabs folded at 90 degrees to the adhesive. You can then remove these tabs with the display kind in place, secured by painters tape on the out side before closing it up.
Don't make the mistake i just did - if you want to cut a notch, cut the BOTTOM 2/3rds section of the strip, not the top! :P
Also, here's a some pics of the mic location in the 2017 retina version from iFIXit: Muffled Microphone - iMac 21.5" (mid 2017) - Following Adhesive Strips.
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Appoggia delicatamente lo schermo sopra l'iMac e allinealo attentamente.
In my experience, it is easier to lay the Mac flat on its back, especially if you do not have a wedge, because the display will tilt up and down and you do not want that happening. With the Mac on its back, I removed all the front adhesive strips and then angled the display (not a big angle) against the chin making sure it was even on both sides. Then reconnect the video cables and gently bring the display down into the proper position. Step 23 below seems too much of a hassle to try and get the bottom adhesive strips out while the display is resting on them, and taping the bottom of the display in Step 19 also seems to be a hassle.
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Usa del nastro adesivo di carta o del nastro isolante per fissare momentaneamente il bordo inferiore dello schermo alla cornice dell'iMac.
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Non avvolgere il nastro intorno al retro dell'iMac o potresti rompere lo schermo mentre connetti i cavi.
Noooo!! I followed this step and promptly cracked my screen!!!! You need to be extremely careful NOT to wrap the tape around the back of the computer. These images make it look like it's wrapped around, but if you do that, you won't be able to lift the screen at all to attach the display cables. Why?!!!!!
Oh no! I'm so sorry to hear this! Thank you for sharing your experience—I'm going to add a warning into the step.
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Infila il cavo di alimentazione dello schermo nella sua presa sulla scheda madre.
I am powering the unit back up to test all is working. Screen is black but fan is running loud. I’ve decoupled the power and confirmed both the display cables are connected. Note - I replaced both the HDD with a SSD as well as upgraded the RAM from 8GB to 16GB.
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Usa un paio di pinze o la tua mano libera per infilare delicatamente il connettore del cavo dello schermo nella sua presa sulla scheda madre.
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Fissa la staffa di bloccaggio in metallo sul connettore del cavo spingendola verso il basso verso la scheda madre.
While the previous step refers to “cables,” plural, this step suggests that only the display cable needs to be reinstalled in order to test working order. In my experience (iMac 21-1/2" Retina 4K Display, late 2015), I found that I had to also reconnect the camera/microphone cable in order for the screen to work. [6/7/21]
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Appoggia lo schermo alla cornice dell'iMac.
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A questo punto collega l'alimentatore del tuo iMac, accendilo e controlla la tua riparazione prima di continuare con la procedura di incollaggio dello schermo. Assicurati di controllare tutte le funzionalità di ogni componente che hai rimosso o scollegato.
At this point I tested everything to make sure it worked, including the microphone. It was a bit muffled so I poked it with a pin to try and clear it. This was incredibly stupid because (a) the muffling was due to the backing which I was about to remove from the strip (b) poking with a pin broke the microphone.
I’m not going to buy a new microphone (£72 apparently) and a new set of strips, so I’ll get an external USB microphone instead.
But to anyone else, if the microphone sound is muffled, don’t worry!
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Dopo aver confermato che il tuo iMac funziona correttamente, scollega i cavi dello schermo e inclinalo attentamente in avanti.
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Rimuovi la pellicola protettiva dalle due strisce inferiori da sopra lo schermo, raggiungendole con un paio di pinzette e tirando le linguette blu dal bordo inferiore dello schermo verso l'alto.
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Ricollega i cavi di alimentazione e del segnale video per un'ultima volta.
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Attrezzo utilizzato in questo passaggio:Microfiber Cleaning Cloths$3.99
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Tieni lo schermo con una mano mentre rimuovi le pellicole protettive nei seguenti passaggi, oppure appoggialo delicatamente sulla cornice.
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Per garantire una presa salda, appoggia attentamente l'iMac sul suo retro (con lo schermo rivolto verso l'alto) e premi cautamente ma con decisione lungo tutti i quattro bordi dello schermo.
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Rimuovi il nastro che fissava lo schermo alla cornice.
Yo lo pongo sobre una manta con la pantalla apoyada sobre la manta.Pongo trapos o papel de cocina doblado alrededor de la pantalla y lo sujeto con pinzas de tender ropa.Lo dejo así 24 horas y queda perfecto. Saludos y gracias por el tutorial.
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7 Commenti
Used this guide and the official iFixit strips and everything worked great, until about 6 months later when the screen fell out. I had cleaned off all dust and checked the screen 24 hours later as recommended. Is there anything I could have done better? When I reattach it with new strips I’m going to lay it upward with light pressure around the edges for 24 hours.
I’m sorry to hear that! If you can, please contact our customer support and give them some details on where the adhesive gave out. It may have been defective strips—they can get you sorted out if that’s the case!
In the final stage of removing the numbered tab, the blue tab for the lower portion of strip 3 cam off before revealing any of the white release film. Do you have any tips on how to remove it once it’s stuck everywhere else or is it a case of just leaving it.
Hey Adam! You can try inserting a needle or the point of a pair of tweezers underneath the white liner. You may be able to loosen the liner enough to grasp and remove it. Otherwise, if it's a small portion, I wouldn't worry too much about it.
Worked perfectly. Great kit, loved the Haribo. Fantastic guys.
I made one out of a square cardboard box, and working well so far
Will Moindrot - Replica