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Introduzione

Segui i passi di questa guida per sostituire l'altoparlante di un iPhone 7. La guida include istruzioni per rimuovere il gruppo altoparlante e staccare l'antenna Diversity Wi-Fi che devi trasferire sul tuo nuovo altoparlante.

Panoramica Video

  1. Prima di iniziare, scarica la batteria del tuo iPhone sotto il 25%. Una batteria agli ioni di litio carica può incendiarsi e/o esplodere se forata accidentalmente.
    • Prima di iniziare, scarica la batteria del tuo iPhone sotto il 25%. Una batteria agli ioni di litio carica può incendiarsi e/o esplodere se forata accidentalmente.

    • Spegni il tuo iPhone prima di cominciare a smontarlo.

    • Rimuovi le due viti pentalobe da 3,4 mm nella parte inferiore del tuo iPhone.

    • Lo smontaggio del display dell'iPhone danneggerà le guarnizioni impermeabili. Devi avere pronte delle guarnizioni sostitutive prima di procedere con il passo successivo, oppure fare attenzione all'intrusione di liquidi nel tuo iPhone se lo rimonterai senza sostituire le guarnizioni.

    Can anyone confirm 7/7P's pentalobe screws have a ring of seal near the screw head?

    Cooper Chase - Replica

    Confirmed, the screws have a black ring seal around the head.

    rcheing - Replica

    Can’t get the display front

    Bernadette Pfeifer - Replica

    From personal experience, I highly recommend before doing this procedure or any other, that you do a backup of your phone (preferably local) in case your procedure goes south.

    ballina5ny - Replica

    I purchased the repair tools with the replacement battery from iFixit. The tools include a screw driver and three heads none were labeled 3.4 mm. I think the one that fit the pentalobe screws was labeled Y000. The guide should identify the screw driver head supplied by the kit not 3.4mm.

    Mark Lieberman - Replica

    in the iphone 7 replacement battery kit from iFixit, the screwdriver that fits the 3.4 mm pentalobe screws is labeled P2 (and not Y000)

    Jan-Tijn Oppermann -

    the screwdriver PH000 does not work i wasted two screws and now they dont have the 4 cross mark they are now a circle, i buyed it all from Paraguay and it doesnt work, had to assembly back the parts because i got stuck like i mention with some screws, well im just going to send to a professional to install, thanks

    Martin Frutos, Nuñez - Replica

    The bottom screws are Pentalobe, not Phillips.

    Bram Driesen -

    Before starting, I would recommend backing up your Iphone’s data just in case.

    Jon Moylan - Replica

    If you managed to make it to this section, just send the phone into apple for 50 + 6 dollars shipping. The ribbon cables on the screen are designed to break. I can literally twist on the rest of the cable and it won’t fall apart but there is a diagonal section where it snaps. This is the fault of apple and the fault of ifixit for misrepresenting the fragility of the cables.

    Ryan Huebert - Replica

    Had to reheat it a few times for a minute each with a hairdryer to get the seal to break after pulling and rocking the suction

    Cynthia Lamb - Replica

    I’m technically challenged. Is there a premier national service who can professionally install a replacement battery got my 7 +?

    Richard - Replica

    Do the screws come out in total?

    YVES THEUGELS - Replica

    Is it the P2 you should use for the bottom??

    YVES THEUGELS - Replica

    I heated the bottom of the phone with a hairdryer and then used a syringe to put a couple of drops of acetone directly into the bottom two screw holes. I GENTLY pulled on the screen with the suction cup and used the pry tool to GENTLY separate the screen. The sealant is applied around the entire display so be very careful pulling it off so you don’t break the fragile display cables.

    Anthony Scaminaci - Replica

  2. L'applicazione di calore sul bordo inferiore dell'iPhone aiuta ad ammorbidire l'adesivo di fissaggio del display, rendendo più semplice l'apertura.
    • L'applicazione di calore sul bordo inferiore dell'iPhone aiuta ad ammorbidire l'adesivo di fissaggio del display, rendendo più semplice l'apertura.

    • Usa un asciugacapelli o prepara un iOpener e applica calore per circa un minuto per ammorbidire l'adesivo sottostante.

    ¿Cuántos segundos son los recomendados?

    joscarlos91 - Replica

    Sesenta segundos

    Krutav Shah -

    It is a process. I heated the lower area of the phone with a hair dryer on and off (1min each) about 3-4 times before I was able to get the provided tool in.

    Dan - Replica

    I suggest using a hairdryer. I used the iOpener for maybe 30 mins to no avail. However, when I used the hairdryer the screen came of much quicker.

    Michael - Replica

    I totally Mr. Myagi’ed it, by rubbing my hands together until they burned, then held the phone un my hot hands. I did this 5-6 times over a couple of minutes. It was a good zen way to get started!

    Ark - Replica

    Can a heat gun be used?

    Lee - Replica

    Absolutely. Just don’t overdo it—the adhesive usually softens up pretty easily. If you are experienced with a heat gun, you’ll have no problem. (If you are inexperienced, it’s easy to cook the display or cause other damage.)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If i use this process, will iphone 7 still be sealed, water/ splash resist after that?

    Marius Serban - Replica

    Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    Angel Hermida -

    Can I use a cpb heating pad to soften the adhesive ? If yes how much time and temperature ?

    davidecongiu - Replica

    Will doing this compromise the screen protector (Zagg) that I have on my phone?

    Eric Nance - Replica

    Hairdryer worked for me but I needed to use a razor to pry it open at the bottom then used the spudger

    Gina Torres - Replica

    Is there a reason why you wouldn’t put the iopener over the entire length of the phone, instead of just the bottom corner?

    BPX - Replica

    The motherboard is extremely sensitive to heat.

    Neal Reasland -

    Hello can the head damage the id touch bottom?

    After heating opening it stoped working.

    Qrizmasex @ gmail . Com

    aratovski - Replica

    It definitely can. That happened to me.

    Steve Naylor -

    mine didnt come with a heat pack do i use a hair dryer

    Shy Rose - Replica

    I just threw a hand towel in hot water, and then stuck it into a plastic bag. Dryers work fine, too.

    hiroo yamagata -

    Thanks for this, the other instructions make it seem SOOOOO simple to open up the case with the suction cup! It actually is hellish. The instruction here about the pre-heating and the required patience really helped!

    hiroo yamagata - Replica

    For those of you who don’t have an iOpener or a girlfriend, I used a ziplock bag with some instant mashed potato inside. It worked perfectly first time and you can fold the bag around the ID button in order to prevent damage to it.

    You also get to celebrate by eating the mash afterwards, HUZZAH!

    Adrian - Replica

    I found this to be completely useless. It didn’t help at all. I had to use a heat gun instead. Waste of money.

    David Gordon - Replica

    I’ll experiment with leaving the phone in the sun until the Temperature Warning comes up so the phone tells me when it’s too hot to be safe.

    Maybe it will be hot enough, maybe it won’t—

    edmk5000 - Replica

    I use a rice pack in the microwave. White dry rice in a sock sown or tied, then microwave (1 minute +/-). The dry rice heats and retains heat for a long time. My kids loved them in in bed during cold winter nights.

    Todd Oeftger - Replica

  3. Applica una ventosa alla metà inferiore del gruppo display, appena sopra il pulsante home. Assicurati che la ventosa non si sovrapponga al pulsante home, altrimenti non farebbe tenuta sul vetro.
    • Applica una ventosa alla metà inferiore del gruppo display, appena sopra il pulsante home.

    • Assicurati che la ventosa non si sovrapponga al pulsante home, altrimenti non farebbe tenuta sul vetro.

    • Se il tuo schermo è seriamente crepato, ricoprilo con uno strato di nastro adesivo da pacchi trasparente in modo tale che la ventosa faccia presa. In alternativa, puoi usare del nastro adesivo tenace ripiegato su se stesso invece della ventosa. Se tutto questo non funziona, puoi incollare la ventosa allo schermo con della supercolla (cianoacrilica).

    The glass is completely cracked and the suction cup doesn't work because it gets air in between. any tip?

    Display is glued and doesn't come off.

    support - Replica

    A wide, single strip of packing tape, well placed, will solve this for you. :)

    Mimic44444 - Replica

    Last comment works well. Thank you !

    Using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in the description in Step 3.

    Cracked screen is most probably the reason you are replacing it.

    Arni Benediktsson - Replica

    I agree that using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in this steps description. I don’t have wide but turned mine horizontal and that worked great.

    Mary Knapp - Replica

    Bekomme die Oberschale einfach nicht runter! Trotz mehrmaligem erwärmen durch den iOpener und seitlichen bewegen! Weiß nicht mehr weiter!

    Stephan Lienhard - Replica

    Wouldn’t that screw up the Touch ID?

    Rexx Havok - Replica

    The suction cup that is. supplied with the essentials kit doesn’t work that well.

    Laurence - Replica

  4. Tira la ventosa fino a creare una piccola fessura tra il gruppo display e il case posteriore. Inserisci l'estremità piatta di uno spudger nella fessura. L'adesivo impermeabile che tiene in posizione il display è molto tenace e la creazione di questa fessura iniziale richiede l'applicazione di una forza piuttosto elevata. Se hai delle difficoltà nell'aprire una fessura, muovi lo schermo su e giù per indebolire l'adesivo finché non riesci a infilare lo spudger.
    • Tira la ventosa fino a creare una piccola fessura tra il gruppo display e il case posteriore.

    • Inserisci l'estremità piatta di uno spudger nella fessura.

    • L'adesivo impermeabile che tiene in posizione il display è molto tenace e la creazione di questa fessura iniziale richiede l'applicazione di una forza piuttosto elevata. Se hai delle difficoltà nell'aprire una fessura, muovi lo schermo su e giù per indebolire l'adesivo finché non riesci a infilare lo spudger.

    This was SO hard for me to do with the spudger. I couldn’t get a gap to insert it because my phone was so cracked (even though I used tape on the front) to get a solid seal with the suction cup. I ended up taking a VERY thin knife and inserting it straight down to make the initial break that allowed me to insert the spudger.

    jessica harlow - Replica

    I’ve given up using a plastic spudger to try to open any of these phones. I use a metal one with a flat base and a very sharp end…close to a razor. As long as I’m careful, it won’t slip and scratch the base. It’s much easier than using these plastic spudgers.

    mcr4u2 -

    I confirm that the plastic spudger it’s not the best tool for this operation. I suggest to use a larger metal tool like a “Jimmy” or “iSesamo open tool” (I used the first one)

    Cristef -

    Im trying to get the screen off right now and my phone is not cracked and its still a pain

    Jordon Johnson - Replica

    Using a blow dryer was extremely helpful and using the suction cup towards one of the lower edges was also helpful

    Jordon Johnson - Replica

    This is not working for me. How long does the heat need to be applied? Still trying right now…. =/

    Chris Gallego - Replica

    Apply hair dryer for at least 1 minute. I inserted the tip end of a thin mini screwdriver and with some force, pryed it open and inserted my plastic spudger to continue the separation process. It worked, just be patient.

    Please wear protective glasses! My iPhone glass was severely cracked, when separating the glass a corner area of broken glass exploded in my face. Apply transparent tape over the broken glass to contain the shards.

    amberron - Replica

    I second Jessica’s January 8 comment.  I just finished a battery replacement on my iPhone 7 and this step was the most nerve-wracking part.  I ended up using a sharper (but not razor-sharp) metal object to get this done with confidence (tried the spudger and guitar pick but not thin enough).  The tool I used was the exact duplicate of what iFixIt calls “iSesamo Opening Tool” in their tool selection.  I did the heat up with a hair dryer (after attempts with an iOpener hot pad) and the secret (as Jessica also noted)  was to not use the angle of attack shown in the pictures, but to push it in more vertically along the bottom edge while pulling up on the suction cup.  From there you can easily lever the tool to the lower angle-of-attack (as shown in the picture).  I actually used the metal tool for most of the perimeter as well, just don’t go deep (you don’t need to).  Notes: my display was intact, and I was able to pull up fairly hard with a glass screen protector still on it.

    Ted - Replica

    This is frustrating. I heated the lower edge with a hair dryer for 1 min on high about 3-4 times. In between each heat cycle, I rocked the suction cup back and forth. I was eventually able to create significant space for the provided tool. This takes a lot of patience. Once the space was created, it was very easy to remove the screen.

    Dan - Replica

    use a fingernail, then the blue tool, then the spudger

    Therese Peffer - Replica

    The iOpener worked just fine for me. Had to keep it on for a few minutes. I also was able to get the suction cup seal right close to the edge, over top of the home button for added leverage. Used the blue tool and transitioned to the spudger. Slow, steady pressure…and patience. ;)

    johnhall918 - Replica

    Unable to open an iPhone 7 display assembly. Used gell pack at 150 degrees F. The phone wouldn’t budge when I used the iFixit suction cut. Part of the problem is that the cup doesn’t adhere for long before it looses suction. I suspect it would work better on unbroken glass, but that doesn’t help me now. After spending a lot of time at this, I changed heating methods to a hot air heater. I raised the temp of the bottom end of the phone to, ultimately, 175 degrees, and used a variety of tools to try to pry the glass apart enough to get a spudger (or anything) in, but it didn’t even lift enough for a double-edged razor blade to get in. I’ve been trying this for hours now, and about to give up and throw a lot more money at this to have a service perform the work. I figured that 175 was as high as I should need to go to soften the adhesive without damaging the electronics. Should I have gone higher? I see no mention of measured temps in any instructions or comments.

    ted - Replica

    Have you tried applying tape to the broken screen? This will help a lot with keeping the suction cup on it.

    Christian Groothuis -

    It doesn’t need to get very hot; pulling up on the display is mainly what does the trick. Make sure the two pentalobe screws have been removed and then try the tricks in this step. If all else fails, superglue the suction cup to your display and let it cure, and then pull. Keep in mind you only need a tiny gap to insert a plastic pick and start cutting the adhesive. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Just a question. After this operation the impermeability function was compromitted?

    bentek86 - Replica

    The trick I found, was to add packing tape right across the bottom over the home button then use hairdryer on the end, then suction cup on the very bottom and it lifted enough to get a gap. No one mentioned how it would be impossible to handle the phone after the hairdryer ;)

    Andrew Lansdowne - Replica

    Didn’t have an iOpener and 60 seconds on a hairdryer wasn’t doing it for me. Still wouldn’t budge. I had to take a very sharp razor along the seam at the bottom between the speakers. It took about 20 passes for it to separate enough to get the spudger in. Make sure you keep the razor at a 90-45˚ angle and that it goes no more than 1-2mm into the phone. The bottom of the phone is metal, but the casing for the screen is plastic. So if you cut lower than a 45˚ (flat with the phone) you risk cutting into the casing. Apply light pressure when making the passes. I would just do the razor on the flat part on the bottom.

    minimalist - Replica

    I used a hair drier while lifting up at the same time until I could get the too inside. The seal is pretty finicky. Just take your time and you should be fine. Work the hair drier and the tool all the way around before lifting the screen up and off. There will likely be sealant stuck between the screen and phone. You can just break it with the tool.

    Ray Bieze - Replica

    This step was impossible for me despite using a blow dryer and having no cracks on the screen. I finally took it to a local repair place and had them do battery replacements for two iPhone 7’s. The girl let me watch her do it. She used a razor blade (just until she had a small opening that she could hold open with her fingernail) and confirmed that she too would have difficulty opening it with a plastic tool and suction cup. The plastic tool was great for prying the rest of it open once a crack was there, but she said she would never try to use that as the tool to initially open it. The tools provided for initially prying open the screen are inadequate.

    Chad Twedt - Replica

    Hopeless - no chance to get the screen off without any damage. No matter what tools, heat etc.

    Anatole Beams - Replica

    I second what others have said, definitely use a razor blade to break the seal! Heat helps some, but too much direct heat is bad for the screen. Would have been impossible if I hadn’t read the comments, thanks everybody!

    Kit - Replica

    Use extreme caution on this step. I was just replacing my battery and now i’m buying a new screen. The screen was very stuck, I pulled to hard and it popped off suddenly, completely destroying the screen.

    moose - Replica

    When the right heat is reached, the easiest way is to use a metal iFlex to create the initial gap, then insert the Jimmy or iSesamo next to it so the gap gets bigger, at this point you can get in with the flat edge of a plastic spudger and slowly slide it in the borders to cut the adhesive. You will still need to force a bit the upper end to separate the screen by pulling it down while keeping up the screen, and twist to the right. I hope this is clear enough. Never apply too much strength too quickly anyway.

    Stefano Restuccia - Replica

    I used the short blade of my swiss knife to make an initial opening. Using the sharp edge, inserting about 1 mm straight down and twisting down into a 45° angle. Then I was able to insert the spudger.

    John van de Loo - Replica

    This is a difficult step. Fortunately, I had another suction cup from an earlier repair available, so I applied one to each side of the phone. After warming with a hair dryer, I was able to pull the two suction cups far enough away that another person could easily insert the spudger.

    The third hand was essential.

    Mark - Replica

    I found this tactic to be the best solution for us. I used two suction cups, one on each side of the phone, and another set of hands to get a pry tool under the display. We still had to take our time prior while heating the adhesive, but were able to pry the display fairly easily using the two suction cup method.

    Lucas -

    It was a really excruciating process of heating, lifting with the suction cup, trying to slide in the spudger/pick, and repeating the process for 20 times or so. But in the end, my patience paid off!

    hiroo yamagata - Replica

    I used a hair dryer, then used a safety razor blade parallel to the bottom edge to push straight down (from the glass side, towards the back) while lifting with the suction cup. I wiggled the blade (top to bottom) while pressing down gently, until I saw a gap that would accept the spudger. It did not take much force on the blade or much wiggling, just patience.

    Gene Merritt - Replica

    Followed Gene’s approach with heat and a razor blade. I was nervous, but went slow; it was very easy and effective. Great tip. Just be patient and don’t rush yourself.

    Michael J - Replica

    I would skip right to using a single edge razor blade and a hair dryer to create the gap needed for the spudger.

    Logan Brown - Replica

    Think plunging the toilet - it did not work for me for a long time. the suction cup would not stay held on a long pull. I found that tiny push-pull repeated motions, reseating the suction cup with each push slowly overcame the adhesive, and contributed heat :). I had it after about 50-70 cycles

    Andrew Balanda - Replica

    seconding this comment from Ted ~~~ “the secret (as Jessica also noted)  was to not use the angle of attack shown in the pictures, but to push it in more vertically along the bottom edge while pulling up on the suction cup.  From there you can easily lever the tool to the lower angle-of-attack (as shown in the picture).”

    natjpollard - Replica

    I echo what everyone is saying here, the spudger just isn’t good enough for this and neither is a pick. The razor is the best way to go. I tried using a very sharp penknife blade and managed to damage my LCD (somehow!) and the bezel so I ended up having to buy a new screen display as well as a new battery. Think twice before doing this. Be prepared to shell out for a new screen just in case it goes wrong. You’ll also need the heat gun (the iopener was useless). If you do need to buy a new screen, make your life easier and get one with the speaker, forward-facing camera, home button, etc., already attached (you can then replace the home button) or you’ll end up having to transfer all these from your old display.

    David Gordon - Replica

  5. Fai scorrere lo spudger verso sinistra lungo il lato inferiore dell'iPhone. Ruota lo spudger per allargare la fessura tra il display e il case posteriore. Ruota lo spudger per allargare la fessura tra il display e il case posteriore.
    • Fai scorrere lo spudger verso sinistra lungo il lato inferiore dell'iPhone.

    • Ruota lo spudger per allargare la fessura tra il display e il case posteriore.

    Didn’t have an iOpener and 60 seconds on a hairdryer wasn’t doing it for me. Still wouldn’t budge. I had to take a very sharp razor along the seam at the bottom between the speakers. It took about 20 passes for it to separate enough to get the spudger in. Make sure you keep the razor at a 90-45˚ angle and that it goes no more than 1-2mm into the phone. The bottom of the phone is metal, but the casing for the screen is plastic. So if you cut lower than a 45˚ (flat with the phone) you risk cutting into the casing. Apply light pressure when making the passes. I would just do the razor on the flat part on the bottom.

    minimalist - Replica

    I used a hairdryer and a razor

    Gina Torres - Replica

    The photos are a con. You cannot get a spudger in unless you can lift the screen. You cannot lift the screen because of the adhesive. Using a anything metal will damage the paintwork or the glass edge.

    Anatole Beams - Replica

    I agree, these guides are half imaginary idealism it seems. A thin metal edge pushed vertically down just a fraction of a mm will cause the adhesive to weaken better than any amount of heat, but affects the final appearance sadly.

    Jesse de Vries - Replica

  6. Fai scorrere lo spudger lungo il lato sinistro dell'iPhone, iniziando dalla parte inferiore e spostandoti verso i pulsanti del controllo volume e l'interruttore della modalità silenziosa. Non cercare di forzare la parte superiore del display sollevandolo dal case posteriore, perché è bloccato in posizione da clip in plastica che potrebbero rompersi. Non cercare di forzare la parte superiore del display sollevandolo dal case posteriore, perché è bloccato in posizione da clip in plastica che potrebbero rompersi.
    • Fai scorrere lo spudger lungo il lato sinistro dell'iPhone, iniziando dalla parte inferiore e spostandoti verso i pulsanti del controllo volume e l'interruttore della modalità silenziosa.

    • Non cercare di forzare la parte superiore del display sollevandolo dal case posteriore, perché è bloccato in posizione da clip in plastica che potrebbero rompersi.

    Be VERY careful on this next step going up the right side of the phone. There is a ribbon cable 1/3 of the way up from the bottom that is very close to the edge. Do NOT use the blue triangle!!!! Just lightly rotate the spudger to get separation on the edge.

    Timothy Varvais - Replica

  7. Inserisci l'estremità piatta di uno spudger nell'angolo inferiore destro del dispositivo. Ruota lo spudger per allargare la fessura tra il gruppo display e il case posteriore. Fai scorrere  l'estremità piatta dello spudger sul lato destro del telefono per rompere l'adesivo che tiene in posizione il display.
    • Inserisci l'estremità piatta di uno spudger nell'angolo inferiore destro del dispositivo.

    • Ruota lo spudger per allargare la fessura tra il gruppo display e il case posteriore.

    • Fai scorrere l'estremità piatta dello spudger sul lato destro del telefono per rompere l'adesivo che tiene in posizione il display.

    • Fai attenzione a non infilare lo spudger troppo all'interno rispetto all'adesivo per evitare danneggiamenti ai cavi delicati che passano sul bordo destro del dispositivo.

    Shoot. I broke the sensitive ribbon cable because I didn’t quite understand what the instructions meant with not to insert the spudger further than the adhesive. It means depth wise, not up the side. Sigh.

    Leo Hwang - Replica

  8. Tira verso l'alto la ventosa per sollevare il display e aprire l'iPhone. Non sollevare il display oltre 10° perché ci sono dei cavi a nastro lungo il bordo destro del dispositivo  che collegano il display alla scheda logica.
    • Tira verso l'alto la ventosa per sollevare il display e aprire l'iPhone.

    • Non sollevare il display oltre 10° perché ci sono dei cavi a nastro lungo il bordo destro del dispositivo che collegano il display alla scheda logica.

    do not pull up pull sideways it will brake

    Riley Patterson - Replica

    Made this mistake

    rachael.grime - Replica

    Somehow my phone turned itself back on during the opening. Scared me a little, like a patient coming out of anesthesia during the operation. I was able to turn it back off. Gotta be more careful where you grab this thing.

    Bryant Larsen - Replica

  9. Solleva la piccola appendice  della ventosa per rimuovere lo strumento dal pannello anteriore.
    • Solleva la piccola appendice della ventosa per rimuovere lo strumento dal pannello anteriore.

  10. Fai scorrere uno strumento di apertura lungo il lato superiore dell'iPhone, tra il case posteriore e il pannello anteriore, per rompere  la parte restante dell'adesivo che tiene in posizione lo schermo. Stai attento a non danneggiare le clip in plastica sul lato superiore del telefono.
    • Fai scorrere uno strumento di apertura lungo il lato superiore dell'iPhone, tra il case posteriore e il pannello anteriore, per rompere la parte restante dell'adesivo che tiene in posizione lo schermo.

    • Stai attento a non danneggiare le clip in plastica sul lato superiore del telefono.

    The plastic clips mentioned are on the top of the screen being replaced… so not sure why it matters not to break them. Trick here was to pull the screen downwards to open a gap at the top and then insert as shown and raise to break the seal.

    Andrew Lansdowne - Replica

    This is relevant for other guides than the display replacement guide.

    jvalaamo -

    プラスチックのクリップという

    表現に混乱しました。

    上部に食い込んでいる

    差し込みのことだったんですね。

    下に引っ張ったら抜けました。

    情報ありがとうございました。

    MARU - Replica

  11. Tira lievemente in orizzontale il gruppo display per allontanarlo dalla parte superiore del telefono per scollegare le clip che tengono bloccato lo schermo al case posteriore. Apri l'iPhone sollevando il display dal lato destro, come se fosse  la copertina posteriore di un libro. Anche in questa fase, non cercare di separare completamente  il display perché ci sono diversi fragili cavi a nastro  che lo collegano ancora  alla scheda logica dell'iPhone.
    • Tira lievemente in orizzontale il gruppo display per allontanarlo dalla parte superiore del telefono per scollegare le clip che tengono bloccato lo schermo al case posteriore.

    • Apri l'iPhone sollevando il display dal lato destro, come se fosse la copertina posteriore di un libro.

    • Anche in questa fase, non cercare di separare completamente il display perché ci sono diversi fragili cavi a nastro che lo collegano ancora alla scheda logica dell'iPhone.

    I just broke the cable to the battery!

    No Bama - Replica

    same dude im such a freak lol omg haha

    Aiden Polaski - Replica

    Are there replacements ribbons?

    Blax Bently - Replica

    Has anyone else noticed very small squares of rubber with a circle cut through it (I think they fall off into the phone when dismantling)?

    I just replaced my screen and worked out that these are actually a wee pocket that slips over the pentalobe screw holes on the replacement screen. I’m not sure if it’s an additional water resisting mechanism or if it’s to add additional traction for the screws

    richarddillon - Replica

    Thanks, I was wondering where those were from!

    Albert -

    Same, I only had one fall out and I had no idea if important, and didn’t re-add - because I wasn’t sure where it fell from - but it was definitely from the home screen button….watch it be important. -__-

    Nicole Crome -

    I just broke cable connecting camera and earpiece speaker to logic board. Be careful with it.

    Natan Haładyn - Replica

    This section is missing a critical step - to lay some Post-It notes or something below the right half of the phone when you swing it open, so the ribbon cables don’t get sliced by the sharp edge of the phone case. I broke the Home Button ribbon cable because there was no strain relief when I laid it open.

    neila - Replica

    I also broke the home button cable and now I have to use assistive touch.

    Laurencio Gonzalez - Replica

    Keep the suction cup on the display to keep it propped up while you disconnect the ribbon cables.

    minimalist - Replica

    I broke the short ribbon cable that attaches underneath the lower connector bracket. Be SURE when you lift the display, you do it from left to right. I thought I had the phone oriented correctly in my hand, but I was mistaken.

    John Murray - Replica

    Put the suction cup on the right side of the middle of the screen when you rotate it up and out. It serves as a nice stand to take the pressure off the connectors.

    Ray Bieze - Replica

    no mention of what you do once u open the book. are the ribbons long enough to lie flat  or do we have to keep screen raised while removing screws,, like when we hold screen up 45 degrees while removing 5 screw plat when at top of phone. I only realised how fragile the ribbons are and how important it is to use suction  cup to rest screen on an angle so ribbons don't stretch or cut on frame.

    thanks for the above comments and probably the most important section. I just hope I closed t before I fdid any damage. its lke the fragility of iPhone 3’s all over again.

    scallyteacher - Replica

    I just broke one of the cables… yeah, it is not nice… I’m lucky in the sense the screen is still working, but the button is not.

    Trying a cheap screen on Ebay (that contains the cable) do 20$, after that, it’s a new cellphone…

    Vincent Poirier - Replica

    Be EXTREMELY careful when you lift up the screen. I broke 3D touch cable, and the home button stopped working. Had to replace the whole display.

    Sizun Cho - Replica

    Attention ! J’ai cassé la nappe de la caméra avant !

    arnauldjouanny - Replica

    • Rimuovi le seguenti viti con testa tri-wing Y000 dalla staffa inferiore del connettore:

    • Tre viti da 1,2 mm

    • Una vite da 2,4 mm

    • Nel corso dell'intera riparazione, tieni traccia di ogni vite e assicurati che ciascuna verrà rimessa esattamente al suo posto per evitare di danneggiare il tuo iPhone.

    Ahhh shoot! accidentally ordered tri-wing vs tri-point (must have just looked for y000).. It seems they only did this to annoy repair folks because not everything is tri-point on the phone...

    Steve - Replica

    These screws just spin for me. They don't back out, but the heads aren't stripped either. I've tried applying backpressure to help lift the screws, but no luck

    Jeff Hurst - Replica

    The Y000 took out one of the screws but not the other 3. I even tried the PH000 as suggested but nothing.

    dbright - Replica

    What driver do I need to remove these screws i’m stuck

    Nasser Nader - Replica

    i cant use, the Y000 it isnt working.

    joscarlos91 - Replica

    What if I stripped a screw what do I do??

    Jacob Ramos - Replica

    Yep, only the 2.4mm came out, other 3 won’t budge, and worried I’ve stripped the heads. Anyone got any ideas?

    Stephen Babbage - Replica

    It’s the screwdriver bit that is the problem. I had the same issue with 2 Y000 bits not grabbing the screw properly. I fixed it by using a small 3 sided file to slightly grind the groves in the Y000 bit just a bit deeper. Then the bit worked like a charm on these screws.

    Jim Staples - Replica

    Use Y000 on all 4. U have to be very sensitive on the 1.2mm screws. Put the bit in the screw, put the left pointing finger on top of the screwdriver and turn the driver carefully to the right until you feel a “bump”, thats the trick :-), then you are able to screw the screw out.

    Magne Eivindson - Replica

    For me the key here was a LOT of downward pressure to ensure the Y000 bit caught in the screw. Not sure i can describe how much exactly, but is was significant. Otherwise the bit would not catch.

    Erik Fredriksen - Replica

    What do I do if I Stripped one of them?

    Adam Corral - Replica

    Can’t get them removed what to do ?

    cowling_luke - Replica

    Managed to get the central one out. The upper one won't move, the lower one I've popped out with some force. This allows you to rotate the cover enough to unplug the various bits. Not ideal, but works. I've tried applying a lot of pressure, using the tighten/ loosen method, but the heads have just got mashed… no wonder Samsung are now No1, sigh…

    jimpoolio - Replica

    You need to be careful when just rotating the cover as you can accidentally slice through the two black antennas! You only need to nip them…As you can tell I have done this in the past :/

    Kyle Webb -

    The first, longer screw came out fine, but the other three wouldn’t budge, regardless of more/less pressure or a slight angle or anything. I finally filed down the tip of the Y000 bit ever so slightly, and then it worked. Hope this helps someone.

    Harmony Vine - Replica

    Filing down the bit worked for me. The tip about putting an index finger on the end of the screwdriver handles and then turning gently until it clicks into place was very helpful! Using these 2 tips I didn't need much downward pressure. Screws are out in a few turns.

    Chris Bennett - Replica

    If you can’t get the bit to grip the screw properly, you can use a little bit of the water-proof sealing between the bit and the screw. That worked for me. Hope this helps anyone.

    jvalaamo - Replica

    Mine came out easily. I placed the screws in the area where the bit goes in my kit so I can keep track.

    Gina Torres - Replica

    I used a bunch of medicine cups to track my screws. You need like 12 if you want them all in cups. I ran out. There are so many different sizes that literally vary by 1mm. The tolerances on these things are tight.

    Ray Bieze - Replica

    I use a 28 day pill box and keep every screw separate and reburn to exact slot because they all vary in length, width and can really damage u phone if too long and nt secure if to small.  use a magnetised screwdriver,  or make the cheap freebees magnetic for a short period by rubbing it up an a magnet. lol

    scallyteacher - Replica

    Absolutely ridiculous had to go get a different one just stupid

    mark golling - Replica

    I couldn’t get the lowest one out and just turned the metal bracket out of the way and replaced battery.

    qwerty77x - Replica

    Was able to get the outer bracket screws out using fine needle nose pliers 90 degrees straight down for the outer ones by pressing down a little and using medium gripping force. Had to take these out first before i could use tweezers on the middle one, for which I had to use tweezers to hold the screw, then rotating the bracket (not the screw) counter clockwise a few mm many times over to slowly unscrew it 1/32th of a turn at a time, repeat. (this loosened middle screw). Think ‘rotating bracket 3minutes/degrees counterclockwise at a time while holding screw in place.) You are gonna need really small/fine pliers and tweezers for this because the heads are countersunk into the bracket.

    Galen Wollenberg - Replica

    The top screw in the step was much longer than 1.2mm. It has the same head as the 1.2mm, but different than the 2.4mm. It’s good to keep track of where they came from.

    All are so small that I thought I’d lost one, when it was still sitting in the phone.

    Mark - Replica

    To help tell if the screw is turning, put a small dot from a marker on the head of the screws.  This helped me to know I wasn't just stripping the head.

    Darren Thibodaux - Replica

  12. Rimuovi la staffa inferiore del connettore.
    • Rimuovi la staffa inferiore del connettore.

    my battery cable connector was stuck to the bottom of this metal bracket plate so be careful when you lift it off

    Josh Martin - Replica

    This may have been intentionally done by Apple to make sure the battery gets disconnected before any other connector is disconnected. So always make sure to disconnect the battery before disconnecting and reconnecting the connectors for the display.

    Oscar Moreno - Replica

    So…I forgot to put this bracket back on when reassembling. Now I’ve adhered the display to the case and don’t have another adhesive strip…so I’m wondering: what purpose does this bracket serve? The phone is powering on and seems to work okay.

    Am I going to run into trouble with this bracket missing?

    Ian Fritz - Replica

    Well, that didn’t last long. The phone shuts down without warning. So I guess that plate is important…

    Ian Fritz -

    Thanks, Josh Martin! Mine was stuck too, so I lifted carefully.

    Cynthia Lamb - Replica

  13. Usa l'estremità a punta di uno spudger  per sollevare il connettore della batteria  dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica. Piega leggermente di lato il cavo del connettore per impedire che possa far contatto con lo zoccolino e quindi possa alimentare il telefono. Piega leggermente di lato il cavo del connettore per impedire che possa far contatto con lo zoccolino e quindi possa alimentare il telefono.
    • Usa l'estremità a punta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore della batteria dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica.

    • Piega leggermente di lato il cavo del connettore per impedire che possa far contatto con lo zoccolino e quindi possa alimentare il telefono.

    Was kann passieren wenn man diesses Kabel vergessen hat zu entfernen `?

    Julian Eltrich - Replica

    Reconnecting the battery poorly can cause the iPhone to appear to be properly powered and functional, but then suffer a reboot loop.

    I had difficulty after a screen replacement, and the Console app on my Mac showed that the ‘thermalmonitord’ process was throwing lots of errors from not getting any sensor readings from the battery. It would never charge past 1% and just kept rebooting.

    The contacts on this conector looked fine so even though I had reseated this connector several times already, I reconnected it very firmly using my thumb and a spudger to really press all the corners and middle and really gave it a good massage and then finally it showed the normal dead battery screen and started properly charging and eventually booted back up to normal functionality.

    It seems the battery has to be able to transmit data to the phone to say it’s not overheating or iOS will not allow any current into the battery to recharge it, and the kernel will panic from the null readings and just reboot over and over again.

    jason - Replica

    In my case, the battery connector was attached to the bracket. We just left it connected bracket when we pryed it up.

    Dave Miller - Replica

    Reconnecting the battery connector was a bit difficult in my case. The cable that comes out of the battery was a tiny bit too long, or that I placed the battery a bit too high (i.e., too close to the top of the phone). It took me several frustrating minutes of fiddling with the connector for it to sit right into the socket. I was not sure if that was connected correctly but, alas, the phone came back to life when it was turned back on.

    Tomoharu Eguchi - Replica

  14. In questo passo, accertati che la batteria sia scollegata quando disconnetti o riconnetti i cavi. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger o un'unghia per staccare i due connettori inferiori del display sollevandoli verso l'alto dai loro zoccolini sulla scheda logica. Per riconnettere questi cavi, premi da un'estremità finché senti il clic che indica il blocco, poi ripeti l'operazione dall'altro lato. Non premere in mezzo. Se il connettore è anche lievemente disallineato, il connettore può piegarsi, portando a danni permanenti.
    • In questo passo, accertati che la batteria sia scollegata quando disconnetti o riconnetti i cavi.

    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger o un'unghia per staccare i due connettori inferiori del display sollevandoli verso l'alto dai loro zoccolini sulla scheda logica.

    • Per riconnettere questi cavi, premi da un'estremità finché senti il clic che indica il blocco, poi ripeti l'operazione dall'altro lato. Non premere in mezzo. Se il connettore è anche lievemente disallineato, il connettore può piegarsi, portando a danni permanenti.

    • Se dopo aver rimontato il telefono ti ritrovi con uno schermo bianco, linee bianche sul display oppure se manca, del tutto o in parte, la risposta touch, prova a staccare e riattaccare con cura entrambi questi cavi e assicurati che siano ben bloccati in posizione.

    To be honest you don’t really need to disconnect the display cables in step 15 or 16 to get the battery out. Just keep the suction cup on the screen to keep it propped up and to give the cables some slack. The only reason to take these cables off is that it’s a pain to apply the replacement display adhesive with those cables in the way. If you’re not re-waterproofing your phone just leave these attached.

    Sostituzione guarnizione adesiva display iPhone

    minimalist - Replica

    MAKE SURE you hold the top screen when dislodging the cable connections. I let the screen lie flat down and ended up tearing one of the cable connections, now my touch ID does not work at all! I’m going to have to order a whole new screen.

    Arjun Nagarajan - Replica

    Don’t miss that SECOND CONNECTOR like I did. It will break very easily if not disconnected :(

    garrett peek - Replica

    An earlier comment said to re-apply the suction cup to the right side of the display so that it acts as a stand when the phone is partially opened. That’s a great idea, and helps a lot for this step and the next.

    Mark - Replica

    Hey – I broke one of these flex cables and I cant find them to purchase anywhere. Can somebody help me? It’s the LCD connector first and what is the second flex cable for? Thanks!

    Chan Ty - Replica

    I broke the second (smaller) display connector flex cable.

    1) Is it replaceable or repairable?

    2) Where can I get the replacement?

    Ben Blom - Replica

    I replaced the screen and have ended up with a blank screen. Touch control seem to work (touch button works and I can shut down the phone by pressing power button for some seconds and then swipe left to right in the upper part of the screen). But the screen is blank. I’ve tried to disconnect and connect the two connectors in step 16 but with the same result (blank screen). What do I need to do?

    Thanks for advice!

    Bjorn - Replica

    this point is the most important in the whole manual.

    Please pay attention not to strain the flex cables or they will end up breaking

    Jose Joaquín Sanz Iniesta - Replica

    I should have been more careful - the second cable tore off.

    My own fault after having done this replacement about four times previously without any issues, I clearly got cocky and didn’t pay enough attention.

    Be VERY CAREFUL and remember to unplug those cables. Don’t skip steps.

    I’ve now had to order a replacement screen.

    Stuart - Replica

  15. Rimuovi le due viti Phillips da 1,3 mm che fissano la staffa sopra il connettore del gruppo sensore del pannello frontale. Alcuni telefoni potrebbero avere viti Y000. Apple ha iniziato a utilizzare Y000 per questi a un certo punto a metà del ciclo di vita del prodotto. Alcuni telefoni potrebbero avere viti Y000. Apple ha iniziato a utilizzare Y000 per questi a un certo punto a metà del ciclo di vita del prodotto.
    • Rimuovi le due viti Phillips da 1,3 mm che fissano la staffa sopra il connettore del gruppo sensore del pannello frontale.

    • Alcuni telefoni potrebbero avere viti Y000. Apple ha iniziato a utilizzare Y000 per questi a un certo punto a metà del ciclo di vita del prodotto.

    Has anyone had trouble getting these two screws off? I’ve been working on these for about 10 minutes and the LEFT screw wont spin. It seems like the little PH000 screwdriver bit won’t even grip it. (The one of the right comes off, no problem)

    It looks like I’ll have to pick this project up again with a screwdriver that will actually take off this piece.

    Makana Sylva - Replica

    If you’re having trouble removing these screws;

    the screw on the right goes into a standoff screw that is screwed into the frame.The left one goes into the logicboard.

    If your phone is used most likely it has been repaired in the past and the person that repaired it put the screws in way too tight.

    If your phone is brand new And you know 100% it is then the problem is your screwdriver.Stop before you strip it completely and buy a better screwdriver (EBAY).

    If you already stripped the screw head take the phone to a shop before you break it.

    there are ways to get them out but truthfully it’s extremely dangerous and sometimes your better off quitting while you are ahead.

    Vegeta Barrett -

    The right screw kept spinning, tried different levels of force but didn’t work. I left the screw on and bent the shield to get to the cable.

    s h - Replica

    I used a #1 flat head tip to loosen.

    Peter Pearson - Replica

    I couldn’t get the two screws out either—used the correct screw tip and everything. Stripped the screw. Will now attempt to just keep the cable attached…..

    Therese Peffer - Replica

    Use the PH000 and apply a little more force before spinning, should come right out!

    Sierra Scolaro - Replica

    ^To anyone having trouble, this is the correct answer. Put the phone on a firm surface, align your driver carefully, press down hard, and twist. As long as your driver is approximately the right size, it’ll come out.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    the two screw i have are stripped and i have n way of getting either screws off whats my next bet

    Alexis Marie Colon - Replica

    The PH000 bit is to large. I can’t get the screws out either which really sucks…now I have to put everything back together, find another bit that will work and try this again another day. Not impressed with IFIXIT’s attention to detail so far :-(

    Ryan Welborn - Replica

    Using iFixit’s driver kit, I prefer a PH00 for this, which is larger than the PH000. If you think the PH000 is too big, something is wrong.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I think part of the issue with the iFixit PH000 is that it is slightly too pointy. The PH00 fits better because the splines engage the slots of the screw before the point bottoms out. The PH000 tip bottoms out in the screw’s center point and the splines don’t engage as well. I have other PH000 tips that are more blunt nose and they work better than the iFixit bit.

    rcarswell - Replica

    Use the J00 bit. Worked perfectly

    efazio588 - Replica

    PH000 screwdriver didn’t work for any of these screws, or the barometric vent, or the taptic engine. It was too big. I had to use a different screwdriver from another kit I had.

    minimalist - Replica

    I’d do this step before removing the ribbon cables by the battery connector. That way you can disconnect all of them at the same time.

    Ray Bieze - Replica

    i used the little +-shape 30 mm screwdriver (not the Y…but the + shape).

    mason - Replica

    the cable tore. is that it i need a new phone?

    patricia loving - Replica

    You don’t need a new phone, but your selfie camera and phone speaker will not work. You can get replacements for that about $10.

    jack jones - Replica

    Reconnecting this cable and coverplate took a good 20 minutes. O_O

    Nicole Crome - Replica

    What can I do to remove the screw (I stripped it)

    Alex Vu - Replica

    I also had issues to loosen up the screws, in two parts the right side up and the left side down, i think the PH000 is to pointy or something or its too hard for the srews of the iphone, i cannot take it off and know im regreting i bought i order all the way from Paraguay in south america and know so angry it doesnt work

    Martin Frutos, Nuñez - Replica

    I skipped this step. Just be really careful not to pull on the screen.

    Takumi Arai - Replica

  16. Stacca il connettore del gruppo sensore del pannello frontale dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica. Questo connettore a pressione deve essere riconnesso un'estremità alla volta per minimizzare il rischio di piegatura.
    • Stacca il connettore del gruppo sensore del pannello frontale dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica.

    • Questo connettore a pressione deve essere riconnesso un'estremità alla volta per minimizzare il rischio di piegatura.

    Das ist sehr mutig, das Kabel dort so zu strapazieren.

    Mich würde das Display daneben stellen und mit irgendetwas stützen, dass es nicht umkippen kann um Beschädigungen an dem Kabel zu vermeiden. Das reißt sehr schnell ein.

    Detlef Menninger - Replica

    Is this the connector for the earpiece, as well? I did the screen replacement and everything worked, except now I can’t use my earpiece… I’m afraid I didn’t fully connect this particular portion.

    Victor Bui - Replica

    @victorbui714 Correct, this is also the connector for the earpiece speaker. Check the flex cable carefully and make sure it wasn’t pinched or torn. Make sure the connector socket is clean (give it a blast with some compressed air if needed) and try reseating it. If that doesn’t help, you may want to remove the earpiece speaker and inspect the four springs on the back, and check that they’re intact and making good contact with the four circular pads on the flex cable. Give the pads a wipe with some IPA and try not to leave any skin oils on them. If none of that works, try replacing the entire flex cable/sensor assembly. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

  17. Rimuovi il gruppo display.

    When removing the screen, be aware of the two tiny square black rubber grommets on the Penelope screw brackets that secure the screen. They can fall off very easily and be lost without even knowing it (it happened to me, but was lucky enough to find them).

    Guy Cooley - Replica

    Sorry, I’m so unclear about when to replace the Adhesive tape. Should I put the iPhone 7 Display Assembly Adhesive at this step, or after I’ve replaced the battery?

    Victor Bui - Replica

    @victorbui714 Battery first, then adhesive during reassembly, as it says in the instructions. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This is the 3rd screen iv put in my phone and everyone them bust at the top by the camera every time iv bought one of these screen idk if it’s the manufactures fault or what?

    trent bost - Replica

    @trentb28922 Ouch! That’s not normal. Is your phone’s frame bent? Are you having to use a lot of force when you install the display?

    Jeff Suovanen -

  18. Rimuovi le due viti Phillips da 1,9 mm che fissano lo sfiato barometrico al case posteriore.
    • Rimuovi le due viti Phillips da 1,9 mm che fissano lo sfiato barometrico al case posteriore.

    The barometric vent seems to have some foam cushioning towards the bottom of the case? does this get damaged via removal I wonder?

    Phil - Replica

    I’m stucked with the right screw, can't get it out. Any ideas?

    Racecar - Replica

    Edit: I’ve lifted the taptic engine without unplugging it. Removing the battery stripes didn't cause any issues.

    Racecar -

  19. Rimuovi lo sfiato. Rimuovi lo sfiato.
    • Rimuovi lo sfiato.

  20. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per disconnettere il connettore del Taptic Engine dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per disconnettere il connettore del Taptic Engine dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.
    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per disconnettere il connettore del Taptic Engine dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

  21. Rimuovi le tre viti a croce Phillips da 1,6 mm che fissano il Taptic Engine al case posteriore.
    • Rimuovi le tre viti a croce Phillips da 1,6 mm che fissano il Taptic Engine al case posteriore.

    My screws are stripped here. Please help, I don’t know what to do!

    Salva Alcón - Replica

    My screws are also stripped here, but the phone has never been opened before!

    Kyle Webb - Replica

    Hey Salva and Kyle, sorry to hear about all these stripped screws! For help with removing them, check out our guide.

    Adam O'Camb - Replica

    I had a new phone. These screws were missing when I disassembled it. Not sure what QC Apple has, but it ain’t great. If they’re missing it’s not the end of the world. You can just disable taptic touch.

    Ray Bieze - Replica

    I had my 7 battery replaced by an Apple Authorized dealer. Around 2 weeks after the taptic engine started to make a !&&* of a noise when it was activated (sounded as if it was loose)… then 1 month after that… it stopped working completely. fast forward 8-9 months later, the battery they had replaced just wasn’t holding its charge anymore (phone was spending more time plugged in charging and depleting very quickly = full charge lasted about 1-2 hours). Having bought the ifixit battery and have gotten as far as this step, I could see that all three of the 1.6mm screws were just floating around in the compartment and the taptic engine was just being held on via it’s ribbon lead. WTF?! Screws aren’t stripped and I managed to fix it in again. Why would these screws be floating around like this??

    Phil - Replica

  22. Rimuovi il Taptic Engine. Rimuovi il Taptic Engine.
    • Rimuovi il Taptic Engine.

  23. Svita la vite Phillips che fissa l'antenna diversity del Wi-Fi al case posteriore:
    • Svita la vite Phillips che fissa l'antenna diversity del Wi-Fi al case posteriore:

    • Una vite da 3,2 mm

  24. Svita le tre viti Phillips che fissano l'altoparlante al case posteriore:
    • Svita le tre viti Phillips che fissano l'altoparlante al case posteriore:

    • Due viti da 1,3 mm

    • Una vita da 2,0 mm

  25. Usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare i connettori dei due cavi dell'antenna dai loro zoccoli sulla scheda madre. Usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare i connettori dei due cavi dell'antenna dai loro zoccoli sulla scheda madre. Usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare i connettori dei due cavi dell'antenna dai loro zoccoli sulla scheda madre.
    • Usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare i connettori dei due cavi dell'antenna dai loro zoccoli sulla scheda madre.

    Hey may i ask…what is the use of both of the antenna cables?i just opened my iphone 7 plus and i found both of the cables are broken.if both of the cables are broken,what does it effect on my iphone?

    Mohd Wazirul - Replica

    Speaker and antenna?

    Keah Smith - Replica

    I'm missing the black thing from my antenna and I have no signal, could this be the reason why? Is the black thing insulation?

    Keah Smith - Replica

    These doodads are a pain to route and reconnect. I probably spent 15 minutes just on this part of reassembly. One of them is connected to the new part. It won’t have the soft grommet on top.

    Ray Bieze - Replica

    One of these came away from its base. The one nearest the battery.

    When I reassemble it I’m thinking just a bit of glue at the side once re attached to base, so lomg as it touches the base contacts?

    Any comments?

    ANDREW - Replica

    I am having the worst time imaginable trying to reconnect the antenna cable coming from the lightening connector assembly to the logic board. It’s barely long enough and will not snap into place. There’s a minature gold pin sticking up from a circular gold ring on the logic board and I must have spent an hour on this one step. The antenna end has the female end. Everything else went well. The antenna connector from the old lightening assembly will connect relatively quickly. I’m beginning to think the new antenna connector female end might be defective. I’m ready to cut the black antenna wire and try to solder in a longer piece using the old connector assembly. Any ideas? HELP !!!

    David Sandrof - Replica

    These can be tricky to reconnect. I found the best way is to hold the connector with tweezers and use the point of a spudger on top of the connector in the other hand. Slowly moving the connector with the tweezers while applying gentle pressure with the spudger, you will eventually feel the connector and its seat line up and you can snap into place. Don’t force it, when it is lined up it is easy so you have to patiently work on aligning it.

    David Ege - Replica

  26. Stacca i cavi dell'antenna della loro staffa sulla scheda madre con delle pinzette. Stacca i cavi dell'antenna della loro staffa sulla scheda madre con delle pinzette.
    • Stacca i cavi dell'antenna della loro staffa sulla scheda madre con delle pinzette.

  27. Usando ancora le pinzette, rimuovi i cavi dell'antenna dalla clip sull'altoparlante. Assicurati di afferrare il cavo vicino alla clip per evitare di danneggiarlo.
    • Usando ancora le pinzette, rimuovi i cavi dell'antenna dalla clip sull'altoparlante.

    • Assicurati di afferrare il cavo vicino alla clip per evitare di danneggiarlo.

    They pull off to the side.

    Ark - Replica

    This was an oddly challenging step, lifting the speaker slightly from the top end allowed me to slide the tips of one side of the tweezers in between the cable and the speaker, prying it out rather than grabbing and pulling which feels dangerous.

    Jesse de Vries -

    They break very easily

    Josh Brito - Replica

    difficile a retirer. Les 2 tables sont clipsés sur le haut parleur. Il m’a bien fallu 10 - 15 minutes pour arriver a les retirer. Aucune astuce a vous donner, a part de la persévérance.

    Guigui - Replica

    One cable seems to stay attached to the speaker. Don’t try to pry it off the speaker! This is shown in the video but not in these photos.

    Cynthia Lamb - Replica

  28. Usa la punta di uno spudger per far scivolare il gruppo altoparlante verso la scheda madre e toglierlo del case posteriore. Usa la punta di uno spudger per far scivolare il gruppo altoparlante verso la scheda madre e toglierlo del case posteriore.
    • Usa la punta di uno spudger per far scivolare il gruppo altoparlante verso la scheda madre e toglierlo del case posteriore.

  29. Rimuovi l'altoparlante.
    • Rimuovi l'altoparlante.

  30. Rimuovi delicatamente l'antenna dalla clip sull'altoparlante. Rimuovi delicatamente l'antenna dalla clip sull'altoparlante.
    • Rimuovi delicatamente l'antenna dalla clip sull'altoparlante.

  31. Togli con cautela la linguetta sollevandola con delle pinzette e separala dall'altoparlante, Togli con cautela la linguetta sollevandola con delle pinzette e separala dall'altoparlante,
    • Togli con cautela la linguetta sollevandola con delle pinzette e separala dall'altoparlante,

  32. Rimuovi l'antenna Diversity Wi-Fi.
    • Rimuovi l'antenna Diversity Wi-Fi.

    When installing the new antenna, it seemed at first that the grommet hole for the screw on the left side did. It line up with the holes on the speaker and case. The key is to gently use the flat end of the spudger to nudge the ribbon up against the speaker and down. Then it lines up well and the antenna cable routes easily through the clip channel.

    David Ege - Replica

Conclusione

Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

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My right speaker is currently not working, and I think I will probably be doing his soon on my device. Thank you.

Alexander Wiand - Replica

Hi there

My iPhone 7 has static when calling and the person im calling cannot hear me. Can someone help me or tell me what is the problem? Is it the earpiece speaker or the speaker at the bottom of the iPhone? Please somebody. Thanks.

Deverard Devereux - Replica

Hi. I’ve the same problem. Have you fix with changing?

Alessandro -

I did all and now the iphone is not turning on

Raul G - Replica

that’s really sad. would you may have damaged to any cell while disassembling? because there is no chance for not turning the phone on, if you did it properly.

Sjen -

Open it again and check for damaged flex cables, reconnect all of the lego-like connectors. Next, check if your battery is good or try putting in a battery you know works for sure. If none of that helps, look for a shop that does microsoldering repairs on phones.

Richard Kraus -

My right speaker also went out I will be considering doing this repair as well.

Seems like a fairly straight forward guide.

Joel Stevenson - Replica

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