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Introduzione

Follow this guide to safely remove and replace the battery from your 2019 MacBook Air.

To minimize risk of damage, turn on your MacBook and allow the battery to fully discharge before starting this procedure. A charged lithium-ion battery can be very dangerous if accidentally punctured. If your battery looks puffy or swollen, take extra precautions.

  1. Before starting this procedure, you should disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide to disable Auto Boot.
    • Before starting this procedure, you should disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide to disable Auto Boot.

    • If your MacBook is running Big Sur v11.1 or later, disabling Auto Boot may not work. You can proceed normally, but make sure to disconnect the battery as soon as you're inside.

    • Completely power off and unplug your MacBook Air before you start. Close the display and flip the entire laptop upside-down.

    • Use a P5 driver to remove the following screws:

    • Two 7.9 mm screws

    • Two 7.1 mm screws

    • Six 2.6 mm screws

    If the first thing you do is disconnect the battery, is it really an issue if you don’t (or can’t) disable auto-boot?

    maccentric - Replica

  2. Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
    • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

    • Remove the lower case.

  3. Peel back the tape covering the battery connector enough to reveal the connector underneath.
    • Peel back the tape covering the battery connector enough to reveal the connector underneath.

  4. Use a spudger to slide the battery connector parallel to the logic board and out of its socket on the logic board. Use a spudger to slide the battery connector parallel to the logic board and out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use a spudger to slide the battery connector parallel to the logic board and out of its socket on the logic board.

    Before the battery can be fully disconnected, the battery disconnect button needs to be held down. There is a gold button just above the battery socket, along with a small LED much like the 12” machines. Once this has been held down and the LED has switched off it is safe to remove the battery.

    Aaron Dalziel - Replica

    This seems like an important step?

    maccentric -

    Also, seems like this should be done after the battery is disconnected, not before? Otherwise, wouldn’t the battery re-charge it?

    maccentric -

    I just performed this repair on my late 2018 mac air. I did click the gold button but saw no LED illuminated or otherwise. Question- after reassembly does the button get pressed again to connect the battery? Please clarify if this button is to be pressed and if it needs pressing again after the repair.

    All said - I pressed again after the battery connector clicked, assembled the back and all worked perfectly. The original issue was one dead port (no charge, no communication). The battery charge lightening bold icon was acting funny too. Genuis bar guy in Naperville said it was likely a logic board too. But it was not. The port was apparently confusing the logic board with regards to the charge function. Thanks Adam for saving me $440 and sending my computer back to Apple. I am 71 yrs young - who says an old dog can’t learn new tricks with good training!!

    William Lane - Replica

  5. Use a pair of tweezers to lift up the black adhesive pull tab at the bottom of the right speaker, enough so you can grab it with your fingers. Grab the adhesive strip pull tab and slowly and carefully pull the adhesive strip out from under the speaker. Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to lift up the black adhesive pull tab at the bottom of the right speaker, enough so you can grab it with your fingers.

    • Grab the adhesive strip pull tab and slowly and carefully pull the adhesive strip out from under the speaker.

    • Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.

    • If the adhesive strip breaks, leave it in and proceed to the next step.

    What do you do to get the speaker to stick once you put things back together? Are these adhesive strips reusable? If not, where can we get new ones?

    Ryan - Replica

    The strips will tend to remain edhesive in some cases but if not just use some thin double sided adhesive tape of a similar width. I will not link because I am in Australia but it isn’t hard to find. I used some heat (100°C) and a plastic spudger to aid removal or a hair dryer on lower heat. Slow and steady, it’s not hard. The strips will almost certainly break.

    Peter Newman -

  6. Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the right speaker cable and pry straight up to disconnect the speaker. Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the right speaker cable and pry straight up to disconnect the speaker.
    • Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the right speaker cable and pry straight up to disconnect the speaker.

  7. Use tweezers to lift the adhesive pull tab at the top of the right speaker enough that you can grab it with your fingers. Grab the adhesive strip pull tab and slowly and carefully pull the adhesive strip out from under the speaker. Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.
    • Use tweezers to lift the adhesive pull tab at the top of the right speaker enough that you can grab it with your fingers.

    • Grab the adhesive strip pull tab and slowly and carefully pull the adhesive strip out from under the speaker.

    • Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.

    • If the adhesive strip breaks, or if the first adhesive strip broke, use a heated iOpener or heat gun to help remove the adhesive:

    • Apply heat to the speaker to soften the adhesive underneath.

    • Carefully slide a spudger or opening pick underneath the speaker to separate the adhesive.

  8. Lift the right speaker straight up from the bottom and remove it.
    • Lift the right speaker straight up from the bottom and remove it.

  9. Use a pair of tweezers to lift up the black adhesive pull tab at the bottom of the left speaker, enough so you can grab it with your fingers. Grab the adhesive strip pull tab and slowly and carefully pull the adhesive strip out from under the speaker. Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to lift up the black adhesive pull tab at the bottom of the left speaker, enough so you can grab it with your fingers.

    • Grab the adhesive strip pull tab and slowly and carefully pull the adhesive strip out from under the speaker.

    • Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.

    • If the adhesive strip breaks, leave it in and proceed to the next step.

  10. Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the left speaker cable and pry straight up to disconnect the speaker. With the connector disconnected, slide the flat end of a spudger under the cable to separate the adhesive securing the cable to the logic board. With the connector disconnected, slide the flat end of a spudger under the cable to separate the adhesive securing the cable to the logic board.
    • Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the left speaker cable and pry straight up to disconnect the speaker.

    • With the connector disconnected, slide the flat end of a spudger under the cable to separate the adhesive securing the cable to the logic board.

  11. Use tweezers to lift the adhesive pull tab at the top of the left speaker enough that you can grab it with your fingers. Grab the adhesive strip pull tab and slowly and carefully pull the adhesive strip out from under the speaker. Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.
    • Use tweezers to lift the adhesive pull tab at the top of the left speaker enough that you can grab it with your fingers.

    • Grab the adhesive strip pull tab and slowly and carefully pull the adhesive strip out from under the speaker.

    • Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.

    • If the adhesive strip breaks, or if the first adhesive strip broke, use a heated iOpener or heat gun to help remove the adhesive:

    • Apply heat to the speaker to soften the adhesive underneath.

    • Carefully slide a spudger or opening pick underneath the speaker to separate the adhesive.

  12. Lift the left speaker straight up from the bottom and remove it.
    • Lift the left speaker straight up from the bottom and remove it.

  13. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.4 mm screws securing the trackpad connector bracket. Remove the trackpad connector bracket.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.4 mm screws securing the trackpad connector bracket.

    • Remove the trackpad connector bracket.

  14. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad cable connector up and out of its socket. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad cable connector up and out of its socket.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad cable connector up and out of its socket.

  15. If the left speaker is already disconnected, skip this step. Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the left speaker cable and pry straight up to disconnect the speaker. With the connector disconnected, slide the flat end of a spudger under the cable to separate the adhesive securing the cable to the logic board.
    • If the left speaker is already disconnected, skip this step.

    • Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the left speaker cable and pry straight up to disconnect the speaker.

    • With the connector disconnected, slide the flat end of a spudger under the cable to separate the adhesive securing the cable to the logic board.

    I think step 15 was a mistake because it’s a repeat of step 10.

    Ryan R - Replica

    Yeah, the speaker is already removed at this point.

    Jason _ - Replica

  16. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.3 mm screws securing the USB-C port connector bracket. Remove the USB-C connector bracket.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.3 mm screws securing the USB-C port connector bracket.

    • Remove the USB-C connector bracket.

  17. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the USB-C cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the USB-C cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the USB-C cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

  18. Use a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the sound board cable's ZIF connector. Slide the sound board cable out of the ZIF connector. Slide the sound board cable out of the ZIF connector.
    • Use a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the sound board cable's ZIF connector.

    • Slide the sound board cable out of the ZIF connector.

  19. Peel back the black tape covering the fan cable connector.
    • Peel back the black tape covering the fan cable connector.

  20. Use the tip of a spudger to lift up the locking flap on the fan cable's ZIF connector. Slide the fan cable out of the ZIF connector. Slide the fan cable out of the ZIF connector.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to lift up the locking flap on the fan cable's ZIF connector.

    • Slide the fan cable out of the ZIF connector.

  21. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.4 mm screws securing the antenna cable bracket. Remove the antenna cable bracket.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.4 mm screws securing the antenna cable bracket.

    • Remove the antenna cable bracket.

    These are T4 screws

    Richard Arnett - Replica

  22. Insert the point of a spudger under one of the antenna cables close to the connector. Pry straight up to disconnect the cable. Repeat for the other antenna cable. Repeat for the other antenna cable.
    • Insert the point of a spudger under one of the antenna cables close to the connector. Pry straight up to disconnect the cable.

    • Repeat for the other antenna cable.

  23. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.5 mm screws securing the display cable connector bracket. Remove the display cable connector bracket.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.5 mm screws securing the display cable connector bracket.

    • Remove the display cable connector bracket.

  24. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the display cable connector. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the display cable connector.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the display cable connector.

    How do I reconnect display connector??

    Kris Queck - Replica

    Just align the plug section of the display flex with the socket on the logic board and gently press it in until it locks in place. Do not force it but just ensure it’s correctly aligned before pushing it into the socket.

    Peter Newman -

    Pro tip: You can remove the two T5 screws on the LCD connector side (located to the right of the display connector and to the left of the heat shield). From there, tilt the whole skinny LCD board towards the logic board connector and gently pinch the connector in to the socket. Before laying the skinny board back down, screw in the shield from Step 15 so it doesn’t pop out of the socket again.

    jason4 - Replica

  25. Use a T4 Torx driver to remove the following screws:
    • Use a T4 Torx driver to remove the following screws:

    • One 5.5 mm screw

    • Three 2.6 mm screws

    • Two 1.9 mm screws

    These are T5 Torx driver screws

    Richard Arnett - Replica

    Need torx 5 AND torx 4 driver here ;)

    Marcel Popp - Replica

    During re-assembly be soft when screwing in the logic board because those antenna plugs in Step 14 are quite awkward to pin back into their sockets and there is little leeway in the cables; to make this task a little easier in Step 14, secure the logic board loosely right up against the near outside edge; after re-connecting all the cables in Steps 16-9, return to Step 17 to firm up the logic board screws.

    Andrew Gordon - Replica

    The 5.5 mm screw goes into a hexagon standoff which may come off with the logic board being sanswiched beteen the 5.5 mm screw screw and the standoff like happened to me. Just something to be aware of. It also has a black rubber bumper over the screw which was not mentioned at all. It pulls straight off to give access to the screw.

    Peter Newman - Replica

  26. Remove the logic board.
    • Remove the logic board.

  27. Carefully slide an opening pick under the trackpad cable to separate the adhesive securing it to the upper case. If you have difficulty separating the adhesive, heat it slightly with an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive. If you have difficulty separating the adhesive, heat it slightly with an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive.
    • Carefully slide an opening pick under the trackpad cable to separate the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

    • If you have difficulty separating the adhesive, heat it slightly with an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive.

  28. Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the small locking flap on the trackpad ZIF connector. Slide the trackpad cable straight out of its connector. Slide the trackpad cable straight out of its connector.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the small locking flap on the trackpad ZIF connector.

    • Slide the trackpad cable straight out of its connector.

  29. Carefully slide an opening pick under the trackpad cable to separate the adhesive securing it to the battery. If you have difficulty separating the adhesive, heat it slightly with an iOpener or hair dryer. Be careful not to overheat the battery.
    • Carefully slide an opening pick under the trackpad cable to separate the adhesive securing it to the battery.

    • If you have difficulty separating the adhesive, heat it slightly with an iOpener or hair dryer. Be careful not to overheat the battery.

  30. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove four 2.5 mm screws securing the battery.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove four 2.5 mm screws securing the battery.

  31. Use a pair of tweezers to lift up the black adhesive pull tab on the side of the battery, enough so you can grab it with your fingers. Grab the adhesive strip pull tab and slowly and carefully pull the adhesive strip out from under the battery. Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to lift up the black adhesive pull tab on the side of the battery, enough so you can grab it with your fingers.

    • Grab the adhesive strip pull tab and slowly and carefully pull the adhesive strip out from under the battery.

    • Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.

    • If the adhesive strip breaks, leave it in and proceed to the next step.

    No ISO needed here. Luckily 6/6 tapes came out cleanly (praise the Lord)

    Peter Newman - Replica

  32. Repeat the previous step to remove the next two adhesive strips on the same side of the battery. If any adhesive strips break, leave them in and proceed to the next step.
    • Repeat the previous step to remove the next two adhesive strips on the same side of the battery.

    • If any adhesive strips break, leave them in and proceed to the next step.

  33. Repeat the previous two steps to remove the three adhesive strips on the other side of the battery. If any of the adhesive strips broke, you can use high-concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol to help remove them: Carefully drip isopropyl alcohol along either edge of the battery, in the recessed part of the upper case, where the adhesive pull tabs were.
    • Repeat the previous two steps to remove the three adhesive strips on the other side of the battery.

    • If any of the adhesive strips broke, you can use high-concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol to help remove them:

    • Carefully drip isopropyl alcohol along either edge of the battery, in the recessed part of the upper case, where the adhesive pull tabs were.

    • Applying too much alcohol or applying it outside of the wells in the case where the adhesive sits risks damaging other components.

    • Let the alcohol soak into the adhesive for a minute or two.

    • Use opening picks to gently pry the battery away from the upper case.

  34. Remove the battery.
    • Remove the battery.

    • Calibrate your newly installed battery: charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.

    • If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook's SMC.

Conclusione

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

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Adam O'Camb

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2 Commenti

Well done article and I acheived my goal of changing out my very puffy old battery for the new one (still need to recycle the old… ASAP). Curiously, I had to open it again as I, somehow, didn’t get the battery cable pushed in far enough and it wasn’t working. Now, all is well. Strangely, even after a couple of attempts at resetting the SMC, my fan is running almost constantly. I’m kind of not sure what to do about that at this point (yes, I used the iFixIt guide to clean my fan as well). Anyway, thanks for the help.

Michael Cleveland - Replica

great article, havent used it as yet, but just wanted to check the complexity before I purchased the battery

Jay Haripersad - Replica

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