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Introduzione

Bring life back to your iPhone 5 with a new battery. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

This guide instructs you to detach the front panel assembly; this is intended to prevent damage to the display cables. If you feel comfortable supporting the display carefully while peeling the battery out of the body, skip the display removal (steps 13-16) and go to the battery removal steps.

For optimal performance, after completing this guide, calibrate your newly installed battery: Charge it to 100% and keep charging it for at least two more hours. Then use your iPhone until it shuts off due to low battery. Finally, charge it uninterrupted to 100%.

You can also use this guide to replace the battery connector bracket.

Panoramica Video

  1. If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass. Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered. This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
    • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

  2. Before you proceed, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
    • Before you proceed, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning connector.

  3. In the following steps you will be pulling the display up out of the phone body. The display is composed of a glass screen and a plastic bezel with metal clips. Regardless of the tool you use, you need to be sure you pull up the entire display. If the glass begins to separate from the plastic, as shown in the first image, slide a plastic opening tool between the plastic frame and the metal phone body to pry the metal clips out of the case.
    • In the following steps you will be pulling the display up out of the phone body. The display is composed of a glass screen and a plastic bezel with metal clips.

    • Regardless of the tool you use, you need to be sure you pull up the entire display.

    • If the glass begins to separate from the plastic, as shown in the first image, slide a plastic opening tool between the plastic frame and the metal phone body to pry the metal clips out of the case.

    • If you are reassembling a phone with a separated display bezel, you may want to place a thin strip of adhesive between the plastic bezel and the glass to keep the phone closed.

    • The next two steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 5 that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip to Step 6.

    • Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.

    • Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups, against the plastic depth gauge.

    • The top suction cup should rest just above the home button.

    • Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

  4. Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case. The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage any cables.
    • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.

    • The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage any cables.

    • Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.

    • Skip the next three steps and continue on Step 9.

  5. Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.
    • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the cup is completely on the screen to get a tight seal.

    • If you're opening an iPhone with cracked glass, neatly lay a couple strips of packing tape across the front and squeeze out as many bubbles as you can. This will give the suction cup a surface to grab, and minimize the spread of broken glass.

  6. Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly.
    • Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly.

    • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.

    • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The screen is a much tighter fit than most devices.

    • With a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the screen, while you pull up with the suction cup.

    • There are several clips attaching the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.

  7. Continue to pry up around the sides of the front panel assembly, detaching the clips along the left and right side.
    • Continue to pry up around the sides of the front panel assembly, detaching the clips along the left and right side.

  8. Do not try to completely remove the front panel assembly from the rear case, as there are several ribbon cables still attached at the top of the iPhone. Once the clips have been released on the bottom and sides of the front panel assembly, pull the bottom of the assembly away from the rear case. Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
    • Do not try to completely remove the front panel assembly from the rear case, as there are several ribbon cables still attached at the top of the iPhone.

    • Once the clips have been released on the bottom and sides of the front panel assembly, pull the bottom of the assembly away from the rear case.

    • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

  9. Remove the following two screws securing the metal battery connector bracket to the logic board:
    • Remove the following two screws securing the metal battery connector bracket to the logic board:

    • One 1.8 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.6 mm Phillips screw

  10. Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.
    • Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

  11. Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector itself and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket or the board itself, you may destroy the socket or damage nearby components on the board.

  12. Remove the following screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:
    • Remove the following screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:

    • Two 1.2 mm Phillips screws

    • One 1.6 mm Phillips screw

    • This screw tends to not be attracted to a magnetized screwdriver. Take care not to lose it when removing, and make sure it gets back into the right place—a magnetized screw may interfere with the compass.

  13. Lift the display cable bracket toward the battery to unhook it, and remove it from the iPhone. During reassembly, clip the left-hand hooks under the logic board and lower the bracket towards the outside of the phone.
    • Lift the display cable bracket toward the battery to unhook it, and remove it from the iPhone.

    • During reassembly, clip the left-hand hooks under the logic board and lower the bracket towards the outside of the phone.

  14. Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step. Use a plastic opening tool or a fingernail to disconnect the three front panel assembly cables: Front-facing camera and sensor cable
    • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.

    • Use a plastic opening tool or a fingernail to disconnect the three front panel assembly cables:

    • Front-facing camera and sensor cable

    • LCD cable

    • Digitizer cable

    • When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off the connector. This can cause white lines, or nothing at all to appear when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.

  15. Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.
    • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

  16. Use the exposed clear plastic pull tab to peel the battery off the adhesive securing it to the iPhone.
    • Use the exposed clear plastic pull tab to peel the battery off the adhesive securing it to the iPhone.

    • If you have trouble peeling the battery up, use an iOpener or hair dryer to heat the rear case of the iPhone and soften the adhesive.

    • The plastic tab is fragile and may break. If your tab breaks before the battery is freed, refer to the following steps.

  17. If the tab breaks off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery.
    • If the tab breaks off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery.

    • This will soften the adhesive holding the battery, making it easier and safer to pry out of the case.

  18. Use the plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery up, only at the outside edge of the phone. Prying anywhere else, especially near the logic board, may result in damage to the logic board. If the battery doesn't pry easily out of the case, reheat and reapply the iOpener and try again.
    • Use the plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery up, only at the outside edge of the phone. Prying anywhere else, especially near the logic board, may result in damage to the logic board.

    • If the battery doesn't pry easily out of the case, reheat and reapply the iOpener and try again.

    • Pry gently and evenly to avoid deforming the battery. A bent battery can be a fire hazard.

    • Do not pry at the top portion of the battery, you risk severing the volume control cables.

  19. Remove the battery.
    • Remove the battery.

    • If your replacement battery came in a plastic sleeve, remove it before installation by pulling it away from the the ribbon cable.

    • During reassembly, make sure the battery is seated firmly against the rear case. This will prevent any damage to other components when reinstalling the front panel assembly.

    • Perform a hard reset after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

Conclusione

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

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9.221 Guide realizzate

When I finished installing the battery, I put everything back together the way it should be but I have two small problems.

Problem 1: The top of the screen doesn't sit the way it did before I opened it. It sticks out more at the top than the bottom. I'm not talking much, maybe fractions of a MM extra?

Problem 2: The screen isn't as responsive as before. When I'm typing, it sort of lags and then it catches up really fast, sort of like when they phone is "busy" and then it catches up with what you're typing. However, it's not only during typing but scrolling and when tapping the screen. It is generally overall less responsive.

Any ideas?

jnflego - Replica

If others have this problem like I did too when first changing the batter. Here's the answer not in the steps in the guide:

When reassembling the case after replacing the battery and closing the case you have to do the following. The top of the screen (where the cables to the LCD screen are connected) has to be slid in first, before settling in the rest of the case, so that there is no "bumb" on the top of the case. If you don't slide in the case correctly, you will get screen artefacts (after effects, ghosting) when pressing the screen in normal use. You'll notice this immediately and should notice it by the frame not being even on the top.

Fix: Just reopen the screen top, slide the screen frame top first in place, then close the rest of the case and test. Should be ok.

jaakkohyry -

he cambiado la bateria tal y como lo describen pero cuando pongo la nueva bateria no enciende pongo a cargarlo y me sale la manzanita en la pantalla y se apaga asi pasa vario tiempo encendiendose y apgandose solo paraece la manzanita no se que pueda ser

Mario - Replica

Super easy! I am not used to repair things on the regular but this was a breeze. The video was the perfect companion. Hardest part was removing the screen, then reapplying the cover for the three connections towards the top of the phone. The piece didnt seem to sit right, but jiggling it around a little helped and worked like a charm!

therise03 - Replica

While trying to gingerly open a gap with the suction cup, my entire display assembly released all at once and flew up. I think I must have damaged a trace on the flex connector going to the backlight, since I now have hot spots along the top of the display and it seems half of the what-seem-to-be 8 LEDs are dead. Brightness at full is noticeably lower than a friend's iPhone 5.

alexwhittemore - Replica

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