Modifica Il compressore del frigorifero funziona ma non raffredda

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	* If you can hear the compressor running but the fridge isn’t cooling, the problem is most likely either [[Refrigerator Compressor Not Running#Section_Defrost_System_Malfunction\|frost-clogged evaporator coils]] or a [[Refrigerator Compressor Not Running#Section_Failed_Condenser_or_Evaporator_Fan_Motor\|stuck or broken evaporator fan]].
-	* If you hear no sounds and the compressor isn't running, or you hear a click, inspect the [[Refrigerator Compressor Not Running#Section_Faulty_Overload_Relay\|overload relay]], [[Refrigerator Compressor Not Running#Section_Faulty_Start_Relay\|start relay]], and [[Refrigerator Compressor Not Running#Section_Faulty_Start_Capacitor\|start capacitor]].
-	* If you hear constant and loud humming noise which doesn't shut off, your [[Refrigerator Compressor Not Running#Section_Faulty_Compressor\|compressor may be broken]] or have a [[Refrigerator Compressor Not Running#Section_Refrigerant_Leaks\|coolant leak]].
+	* If you hear constant and loud humming noise which doesn't shut off, your [[Refrigerator Compressor Not Running#Section_Faulty_Compressor\|compressor may be broken]] or have a [[Refrigerator Compressor Not Running#Section_Refrigerant_Leaks\|refrigerant leak]].

-	== ~~First Steps~~ ==
+	== The Basics ==

-	==~~= Regular Maintenance ===~~
+	You may want to take a look at the [[How a Refrigerator Works#Section_Components_Diagrams\|component diagrams\|new_window=true]] on our [[How a Refrigerator Works\|How a Refrigerator Works\|new_window=true]] page, which will help you understand where all of the major components are so that you can more easily locate them.

-	It's important to perform regular fridge maintenance ~~before trying these fixes~~. ~~Your appliance should last for at least 10-15 years before needing replacement, so keep~~ it running well with these [[Refrigerator Maintenance\|tips\|new_window=true]].
+	It's also important to perform regular fridge maintenance. Keep it running well with these [[Refrigerator Maintenance\|tips\|new_window=true]].

-	~~[quote]*Safety Note:~~ Power Down Fridge*
+	Before removing and replacing or continuity testing electrical components, power down the fridge. This will prevent damage to the components and prevent you from being electrocuted.

-	Before removing and replacing or continuity testing electrical components, power down the fridge. This will prevent damage to the components and prevent you from being electrocuted. Still, some electrical components — like capacitors — will store their charge and should not be tampered with.
+	* If the fridge is pulled away from the wall, remove the plug.
+	* Otherwise, find the fridge’s circuit breaker in your breaker box and turn the circuit off.
+	* Check that the lights are off in in the fridge when you open the door

-	* If the fridge is pulled away from the wall, or if the power switch is easily accessible, remove the plug.
-	* Otherwise, find the fridge’s circuit breaker in your breaker box and turn the circuit off.
-	** Verify your fridge has lost power by opening the doors and seeing if the fridge lights turn on.[/quote]
+	=== Incorrectly Loaded or Overloaded Fridge ===

-	~~[quote]*Safety Note~~: Sharp Sheet Metal*
+	The evaporator fan blows cold air around the freezer. Too much food or incorrectly placed food will block the vents and prevent proper temperature regulation. The refrigerator vents allow for airflow between the fridge and freezer compartments. The following tips may help your freezer maintain a safe temperature:

-	When working underneath the fridge, consider wearing gloves to avoid cuts from the sharp sheet metal. The sheet metal is the thin structural metal components mount to. While wearing gloves may make working more challenging, it’s worth protecting yourself.[/quote]
+	Locate your evaporator fan and move frozen items further away.
+
+	Unblock the vents. A rule of thumb for frost prevention is to stock enough food to fill the freezer while keeping an inch of space between the food and the walls.
+
+	=== Incorrect Thermostat Setting ===
+
+	If your refrigerator has a knob or dial that sets the temperature, check it out. Verify it is set on cold and hasn't been bumped or shifted positions. Use a thermometer if you don't have a digital thermostat display. The freezer should be around 0°F (-18°C); the fridge around 34°F(2°C)

	=== Reset Power ===

-	~~When refrigerators experience temporary power outages, they may enter a safe mode. The safe mode protects the fridge's internal components from electrical overload. You'll have~~ to reset power to your fridge.
+	You should try to reset the power to your fridge.

-	* Unplug your refrigerator. If the plug is too hard to reach, switch the circuit breaker off.
-	* Wait 5 minutes before returning power to the fridge.
-	* Once power is back, open your freezer and push the light switch 3 times to trigger a cooling cycle.
-	* Monitor temperature over the next 24 hours.
+	Unplug your refrigerator. If the plug is too hard to reach, switch the circuit breaker off.
+
+	Wait 5 minutes before returning power to the fridge.
+
+	This will reset your fridge but some modes need to be manually disabled. (see the next step)
+
+	Monitor temperature over the next 24 hours.
+
	[comment]solutions[/comment]


	* Check the fan blade for physical obstructions
	* Rotate the fan by hand. If it doesn't spin freely, replace the motor.
-	* If it spins freely, [guide\|25632\|test the motor for continuity\|new_window=true]. [link\|https://youtube.com/watch?v=tb1aPLzo96o\|Replace the condenser fan motor] if the continuity test fails.
+	* If it spins freely, [guide\|25632\|test the motor for continuity\|new_window=true]. [link\|https://youtube.com/watch?v=tb1aPLzo96o\|Replace the condenser fan motor] with a [parts\|Refrigerator\|new one\|itemtype=motors] if the continuity test fails.

	The *evaporator fan* draws air over the cooling coils and circulates this air within the fridge and freezer compartments. The evaporator fan should be running as long as the compressor motor is running. If your fridge only has one evaporator fan motor, it's located in the freezer compartment. When the fan fails, it won't circulate the cold air to the refrigerator. In this event, the freezer may still get cold while the refrigerator stays warm.


	* Check the fan blade for physical obstructions.
-	* Note: The fan may not be running if it's iced up due to a
-	* [[Freezer Ice Building Up\|freezer building ice\|new_window=true]] guide
+	* Note: The fan may not be running if it's iced up
	* Rotate the fan by hand. If it doesn't spin freely, replace the motor.
	* If it spins freely, [guide\|25632\|test the motor for continuity\|new_window=true]. [link\|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-g2OKp40AU\|Replace the evaporator fan motor] if the continuity test fails.

	Frost-free appliances regulate temperature to prevent ice build-up. Automatic and adaptive defrost systems prevent and remove ice build-up by circulating heat as needed; automatic systems typically run on a timer, while adaptive systems use sensors to determine when to circulate the heat.

-	== Initial Troubleshooting ==
+	=== Initial Troubleshooting ===

	The most modern freezers have an auto-defrost system. This defrost system has four main parts: a defrost heater, a bi-metal thermostat, an electronic control board, and a thermistor. Let's begin troubleshooting the defrost heater system.

	== Defrost Thermal Fuse ==

-	Like a breaker tripping under a power load, your thermal fuse may ~~trip and~~ blow when your ~~appliance~~ overheats. One sign that your fuse may have blown is your evaporator freezing over.
+	Like a breaker tripping under a power load, your thermal fuse may blow when your defrost system overheats. One sign that your fuse may have blown is your evaporator freezing over.

-	* Continuity test your fuse and replace it if the reading is more than 1Ω
+	* Continuity test your fuse and [parts\|Refrigerator\|replace it unit\|itemtype=thermal_fuse] if the reading is more than 1Ω.

	== Faulty Defrost Heater ==

-	The defrost heater melts frost off evaporator fins. If the defrost heater fails, the frost stays put and the entire ~~refrigerator~~ eventually becomes ice.
+	The defrost heater melts frost off the evaporator fins. If the defrost heater fails, the frost stays put, and the entire evaporator eventually becomes ice.

	[image\|2911554\|size=original\|align=center]

	* Locate the defrost heater. If you notice any bumps or cracks, replace immediately.
-	* [guide\|25632\|Continuity test the heater\|new_window=true]. A resistance value outside 50-120Ω will need ~~replacing~~.
+	* [guide\|25632\|Continuity test the heater\|new_window=true]. A resistance value outside 50-120Ω will need to be replaced with a [parts\|Refrigerator\|new unit\|itemtype=heating_elements].

	== Faulty Defrost Timer ==


	* In units with an adaptive defrost control board, you'll have to manually enable the defrost cycle.
-	** ~~Turn~~ the thermostat off for 15 seconds, then on for 5 seconds. Repeat this two more times, then turn the thermostat off.
+	** For some models turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds, then on for 5 seconds. Repeat this two more times, then turn the thermostat off.
	** Defrost cycle should be turned on. Test temperature with a thermometer to see if your fridge is heating up.
	* With a manual timer, test between terminals 1 and 4 for [guide\|25632\|continuity\|new_window=true].
	** Continuity here means that the cooling cycle is operating.
	* [link\|https://youtu.be/WXPG5MtmKak?t=106\|Rotate the manual dial until hearing a click]. Now test between pins 1 and 2 for continuity. This means that the heating cycle is working, and there should be no continuity between pins 1 and 4.
-	* Replace timer if continuity tests fail, or fridge doesn't enter defrost mode.
+	* Replace timer with a [parts\|Refrigerator\|new one\|itemtype=timers] if continuity tests fail, or fridge doesn't enter defrost mode.

	== Temperature Control Thermostat Failure ==

	* [guide\|25632\|Continuity test the thermostat\|new_window=true].
	* Make sure it's cold from the fridge or sitting in ice water.
-	* Replace if its resistance value is outside of 0-1Ω.
+	* Replace with a [parts\|Refrigerator\|new one\|itemtype=thermostats] if its resistance value is outside of 0-1Ω.

-	== ~~Faulty~~ Thermistor ~~(Defrost Temperature Sensor)~~ ==
+	== Thermistor Failure ==

-	Another problem that prevents your fridge from getting cold enough is a faulty thermistor. The thermistor is a sensor which monitors the air temperature. It is connected to the control board. If the thermistor is defective, the refrigerator does not cool (or may cool continuously).
+	Another problem that prevents your fridge from getting cold enough is a faulty thermistor. The thermistor is a sensor that monitors temperature. It is connected to the control board. If a thermistor is defective, the refrigerator may not cool (or may cool continuously). This is not likely if the compressor is running but the unit is not cooling.
+
+	There may be up to four thermistors on your fridge:
+
+	* The fresh food compartment thermistor
+	* The fresh food defrost thermistor
+	* The freezer compartment thermistor
+	* The freezer defrost thermistor
+
+	The compartment thermistors sense the air temperature in the compartment they are placed in. The defrost thermistors sense the evaporator temperature during a defrost cycle and prevent the defrost heater from overheating the evaporator. Since many refrigerators have evaporators in both the freezer and fresh food sections you can end up with four (or even five if the unit has an ambient air thermistor)

	[image\|2910610\|size=original\|align=center]

-	* Grab a multimeter and [guide\|25632\|continuity test the thermistor\|new_window=true]. You can measure the thermistor if it is 46 degrees Fahrenheit (7 degrees Celsius) or colder. Place the thermistor tip into a cup of ice water and cool if you're above target temperature.
-	* If the value isn't between 10—15kΩ, replace your temperature sensor.
+	Grab a multimeter and [guide\|25632\|continuity test the thermistor\|new_window=true]. Place the thermistor tip into a cup of ice water made from ice, water (just enough to cover the ice) and salt. You will need to find information on the resistance value expected for your refrigerator's various thermistors at 32°F (0°C).
+
+	Another possible cause is the defrost thermistor. This can keep the defrost cycle from running fully, allowing ice to build up, which will cause temperature problems in the refrigerator either because the evaporator in the freezer frosts up or because the fresh food compartment defrost is failing in a dual evaporator system.
+
+	If the [parts\|Refrigerator\|thermistors\|itemtype=thermistors] test ok go on to the next item.

	== Temperature Control Board Failure ==

-	If the refrigerator is not cold enough, the temperature control board might be defective. The temperature control board provides voltage to the fan motors and compressor. The electronic control board starts the defrost cycle and regulates how often they are triggered. If the control fails, your fridge will not be able to defrost automatically.
+	If the refrigerator is not cold enough, the temperature control board might be defective. The temperature control board provides voltage to the fan motors and compressor. The electronic control board starts the defrost cycle and regulates how often they are triggered. If the control board fails, your fridge will not be able to defrost automatically.

-	* These boards are often misdiagnosed. Check all other components to be certain this is the cause of the problem.
+	* These [parts\|Refrigerator\|boards\|itemtype=control_panels] are often misdiagnosed. Check all other components to be certain this is the cause of the problem.

-	== Faulty ~~Start~~ Capacitor ==
+	== Faulty Capacitor ==

-	~~Sometimes if~~ the ~~refrigerator~~ isn't ~~cold enough~~, the compressor might be having difficulty starting up. The start capacitor serves as a battery to give the compressor a boost of power during startup. If the start capacitor is burned out —and smells burnt — the compressor might not be able to start and run as ~~often as~~ it should.
+	Since the compressor is likely running for the freezer to work, this isn't as likely a failure. If the capacitor has failed, the compressor will not be able to start and run as it should. Most newer refrigerators use a run capacitor, which stays in the circuit and improves the energy efficiency of the compressor. Some older refrigerators may have a start capacitor, which functions just at startup. These are not as common.

-	~~[image\|2911562\|size=original]~~
+	You may be able to tell what kind you have by looking at a couple of factors. Many run capacitors are polymer-type capacitors with a small rectangular block shape. There are cylindrical run capacitors, but they are less common (some LG fridges have them). The capacitance values of run capacitors tend to be smaller on refrigerators, something between 10 and 22µF (µF stands for microfarads, also abbreviated MFD).

-	* Safely remove the capacitor and [guide\|75901\|discharge\|new_window=true] with a discharge tool.
-	** On smaller capacitors, you can use a screwdriver to discharge. But [link\|https://youtu.be/eQsfuS0VjJE?t=304\|be careful] as capacitors increase in size.
-	* [link\|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PmK4ArtR5pQ\|Test the start capacitor] first with a capacitance meter; they don't fail often. If it's faulty, replace it.
+	[image\|2911562\|size=original\|caption=A Typical Run Capacitor]

-	=~~= Faulty Overload Relay ==~~
+	Safely remove the capacitor and [guide\|75901\|discharge\|new_window=true] with a discharge tool.

-	~~The overload relay is~~ a ~~protection device~~ in ~~the compressor circuit and is often combined with the start relay~~. ~~You can find it plugged directly into the side of the compressor. If the fans are running and your compressor won’t start, or if you hear a clicking sound from the unit follow troubleshooting below.~~
+	On smaller capacitors, you can use a screwdriver with an insulated handle to discharge it. But [link\|https://youtu.be/eQsfuS0VjJE?t=304\|be careful] as capacitors increase in size.

-	{table
-	\|width=100%
-	\|format=50%c:c
-	\| [image\|2910795\|size=large\|align=center]
-	\| [image\|2916847\|size=large\|align=center]
-	}
+	Test the capacitor with a capacitance meter; [parts\|Refrigerator\|replace it\|itemtype=capacitors] if the value measured is outside the tolerance listed on the capacitor (usually +/- 5-10%).

-	* Check the overload relay for signs of overheating or arcing.
-	** This may be a hot module, burnt, or rattles when shaken.
-	* [guide\|25632\|Check for continuity\|new_window=true] with a multimeter.
-	** [link\|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PmK4ArtR5pQ\|Flip the unit over] and test again. If there's no continuity, replace the unit.
+	A very quick functional check for a capacitor is to set your multimeter to the continuity function with the beeper on. Connect the capacitor to the leads for a few seconds. Then, swap the leads to the opposite terminals. If the capacitor is at least storing some charge, you should get a short beep. This will not tell you if the capacitance is correct, only that the capacitor will store charge.

-	~~== Faulty Start Relay ==~~
+	When you replace a capacitor, get the exact type of the existing capacitor and the same capacitance value. You can safely use a capacitor with the same or higher voltage rating than the original.

-	The start relay is a small device mounted to the side of the compressor. It provides power to the run winding, along with the start winding, for a split second at startup to help get the compressor going. If the start relay is defective, the compressor may run intermittently or not at all, and the refrigerator will not get cold enough. The start relay should be replaced if defective.
-
-	[video\|https://youtu.be/nx7l9kY2_bU?t=22]
-
-	* Test Start Relay with a multimeter. View the video above and verify if your start relay is functioning.
-	* Replace relay if it fails the testing or has a burnt odor. Depending on your start relay, you may have to test the start capacitor and overload relay first and use a process of elimination. If the other two components pass continuity tests, and your compressor isn't starting, try replacing your start relay.
-
-	== Faulty Compressor ==
-
-	The compressor — also called the condenser — is the workhorse of your fridge. By pressurizing the refrigerant, the evaporator is able to create cold air. If the compressor is very noisy when you start it up, it may have been damaged in transit, or you could just have a faulty compressor.
-
-	If the overload relay, start relay and start capacitor pass continuity testing, then you may have a defective compressor.
-
-	[video\|https://youtu.be/zYIC7LMkKak?t=129]
-
-	* Test the compressor for continuity by following the video above.
-	* Resistance values vary based on compressor.
-	* Values outside of the range or a short to ground will mean replacing the compressor, which is a costly repair.
-	* If your fridge is more than a few years old, you may be better off replacing the fridge instead of the compressor.
-
-	== Compressor Inverter Board Failure ==
-
-	Modern refrigerator compressor technology has shifted from single phase DC motors to 3-phase DC-controlled AC motors.
-
-	What this means is that instead of the start relay assembly normally attached to the compressor pins — the start relay, overload relay, and overload capacitor — there is now a sealed motherboard and a lot of wires. The inverter board modulates the power supplied to the compressor and allows for more efficient operation.
-
-	[image\|2928869\|size=large\|align=center]
-
-	This new technology is harder to test, so this video may be helpful.
-
-	[video\|https://youtu.be/Tq1jBtjjiFY?t=128]
-
-	The inverter board must be tested by process of elimination.
-
-	* First, test the input voltages. The inverter board will have both a 120V AC main power supply voltage, and a 4-6V DC voltage from the main control board. Remember to make all voltage measurements with everything connected.
-	* If one of these voltages is missing, the inverter board will not work.
-	** Backtrack to find the issue. You could have a faulty wire harness connector, a bad motherboard, or another issue.
-	* Second, follow the compressor continuity testing from above to verify your compressor isn't shorted and is okay.
-	** If the compressor is fine, and the board input voltages are fine, then your inverter board has failed and needs replacing.
+	If everything checks out, go to the next item.

	== Refrigerant Leaks ==


	* Check and test the defrost system, cooling fans, and cooling controls first.
-	* If none of the other components are defective, consider replacing the main control board.
+	* If none of the other components are defective, consider [parts\|Refrigerator\|replacing the main control board\|itemtype=boards].
+
+	== Faulty Compressor ==
+
+	The compressor is your fridge's workhorse. By pressurizing the refrigerant, the compressor ultimately enables the evaporator to chill air. If the compressor is very noisy when you start it up, that's a bad sign, but give it 90 seconds or so to stabilize and get quieter.
+
+	[video\|https://youtu.be/zYIC7LMkKak?t=129]
+
+	* Test the compressor for continuity by following the video above.
+	* Resistance values vary based on the compressor.
+	* Values outside of the range or a short to ground will mean replacing the compressor with a [parts\|Refrigerator\|new one\|itemtype=compressors], which is a costly repair.
+	* If your fridge is over a few years old, you may be better off replacing the fridge instead of the compressor.
+
+	== Compressor Inverter Board Failure ==
+
+	Modern refrigerator compressor technology has shifted from single-phase motors to 3-phase DC-controlled AC motors.
+
+	This means that instead of the start relay assembly normally attached to the compressor pins — the start relay, overload relay, and overload capacitor — there is now a sealed motherboard and many wires. The inverter board modulates the power supplied to the compressor, allowing for more efficient operation.
+
+	[image\|2928869\|size=large\|align=center]
+
+	This new technology is harder to test, so this video may be helpful.
+
+	[video\|https://youtu.be/Tq1jBtjjiFY?t=128]
+
+	The inverter board must be tested by the process of elimination.
+
+	* First, test the input voltages. The inverter board will have both a 120V AC main power supply voltage and a 4-6V DC voltage from the main control board. Remember to make all voltage measurements with everything connected.
+	* If one of these voltages is missing, the inverter board will not work.
+	** Backtrack to find the issue. You could have a faulty wire harness connector, a bad motherboard, or another issue.
+	* Second, follow the compressor continuity testing from above to verify your compressor isn't shorted and is okay.
+	** If the compressor is fine, and the board input voltages are fine, then your [parts\|Refrigerator\|inverter board\|itemtype=boards] has failed and needs replacing.
	[comment]conclusion[/comment]

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Sommario

Has your refrigerator lost its cold? Is the compressor running while power is on? Follow these fixes to get your fridge's most important component working again.

Informazioni Aggiuntive

The compressor is the heart of your fridge. Diagnosing compressor issues starts with listening to your refrigerator — when and where does the sound appear? A stethoscope may help to answer these questions. Pull your fridge away from the wall and listen.

* If you can hear the compressor running but the fridge isn’t cooling, the problem is most likely either [[Refrigerator Compressor Not Running#Section_Defrost_System_Malfunction|frost-clogged evaporator coils]] or a [[Refrigerator Compressor Not Running#Section_Failed_Condenser_or_Evaporator_Fan_Motor|stuck or broken evaporator fan]].
* If you hear constant and loud humming noise which doesn't shut off, your [[Refrigerator Compressor Not Running#Section_Faulty_Compressor|compressor may be broken]] or have a [[Refrigerator Compressor Not Running#Section_Refrigerant_Leaks|refrigerant leak]].

== The Basics ==

You may want to take a look at the [[How a Refrigerator Works#Section_Components_Diagrams|component diagrams|new_window=true]] on our [[How a Refrigerator Works|How a Refrigerator Works|new_window=true]] page, which will help you understand where all of the major components are so that you can more easily locate them.

It's also important to perform regular fridge maintenance. Keep it running well with these [[Refrigerator Maintenance|tips|new_window=true]].

Before removing and replacing or continuity testing electrical components, power down the fridge. This will prevent damage to the components and prevent you from being electrocuted.

* If the fridge is pulled away from the wall, remove the plug.
* Otherwise, find the fridge’s circuit breaker in your breaker box and turn the circuit off.
* Check that the lights are off in in the fridge when you open the door

=== Incorrectly Loaded or Overloaded Fridge ===

The evaporator fan blows cold air around the freezer. Too much food or incorrectly placed food will block the vents and prevent proper temperature regulation. The refrigerator vents allow for airflow between the fridge and freezer compartments. The following tips may help your freezer maintain a safe temperature:

Locate your evaporator fan and move frozen items further away.

Unblock the vents. A rule of thumb for frost prevention is to stock enough food to fill the freezer while keeping an inch of space between the food and the walls.

=== Incorrect Thermostat Setting ===

If your refrigerator has a knob or dial that sets the temperature, check it out. Verify it is set on cold and hasn't been bumped or shifted positions. Use a thermometer if you don't have a digital thermostat display. The freezer should be around 0°F (-18°C); the fridge around 34°F(2°C)

=== Reset Power ===

You should try to reset the power to your fridge.

Unplug your refrigerator. If the plug is too hard to reach, switch the circuit breaker off.

Wait 5 minutes before returning power to the fridge.

This will reset your fridge but some modes need to be manually disabled. (see the next step)

Monitor temperature over the next 24 hours.

[comment]solutions[/comment]

== Dirty Condenser Coils ==

At the backside and bottom of your fridge are the condenser and its coils. Refrigerant passes through the coils which dissipates heat during the cooling cycle. As dust and debris pile onto the coils, the fridge becomes less efficient and the compressor must work harder to cool down. In some cases, the compressor may be running constantly in an attempt to cool the fridge.

[image|2916903|size=original|align=center]

* Pull your fridge out and inspect the coils.
** Your fridge may have an anti-tip bracket and can only be removed by pulling straight out from the wall.
* Clean dust off condenser coils and fan with a stiff brush and vacuum.
* Work carefully during this task and avoid bending or damaging the tubes.

== Failed Condenser or Evaporator Fan Motor ==

The ***condenser*** fan draws air over the compressor and through the condenser coils. If the fan motor isn't working normally, then the fridge won't cool properly. It's normally located at the bottom of the fridge and blows air onto the condenser coils.

[image|2911538|size=original|align=center]

* Check the fan blade for physical obstructions
* Rotate the fan by hand. If it doesn't spin freely, replace the motor.
* If it spins freely, [guide|25632|test the motor for continuity|new_window=true]. [link|https://youtube.com/watch?v=tb1aPLzo96o|Replace the condenser fan motor] with a [parts|Refrigerator|new one|itemtype=motors] if the continuity test fails.

The ***evaporator fan*** draws air over the cooling coils and circulates this air within the fridge and freezer compartments. The evaporator fan should be running as long as the compressor motor is running. If your fridge only has one evaporator fan motor, it's located in the freezer compartment. When the fan fails, it won't circulate the cold air to the refrigerator. In this event, the freezer may still get cold while the refrigerator stays warm.

[image|2911537|size=original|align=center]

* Check the fan blade for physical obstructions.
* Note: The fan may not be running if it's iced up
* Rotate the fan by hand. If it doesn't spin freely, replace the motor.
* If it spins freely, [guide|25632|test the motor for continuity|new_window=true]. [link|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-g2OKp40AU|Replace the evaporator fan motor] if the continuity test fails.
* An unusually noisy motor should be replaced as well.

== Defrost System Malfunction ==

If the evaporator cover in your freezer is covered in ice crystals, or otherwise frozen over, there's an issue with your defrost system.

=== Defrost Type ===

Frost-free appliances regulate temperature to prevent ice build-up. Automatic and adaptive defrost systems prevent and remove ice build-up by circulating heat as needed; automatic systems typically run on a timer, while adaptive systems use sensors to determine when to circulate the heat.

=== Initial Troubleshooting ===

The most modern freezers have an auto-defrost system. This defrost system has four main parts: a defrost heater, a bi-metal thermostat, an electronic control board, and a thermistor. Let's begin troubleshooting the defrost heater system.

* Test to see if the defrost heater works. Put your freezer into forced defrost mode. On some models this mode is entered by pushing the door sensor 5 times in 2 seconds. The controller will beep and the defrost mode will start. This mode can be exited by unplugging the fridge.
** If this procedure doesn't work, check the tech sheet located under or behind your fridge for your specific procedures.
* Check to see if the heater heats up.
** If it heats up, jump to the [[Freezer Ice Building Up#Section_Faulty_Thermistor_Defrost_Temperature_Sensor|thermistor|new_window=true]] section.
** If it doesn't heat up, begin troubleshooting the system starting with the defrost heater.

== Defrost Thermal Fuse ==

Like a breaker tripping under a power load, your thermal fuse may blow when your defrost system overheats. One sign that your fuse may have blown is your evaporator freezing over.

* Continuity test your fuse and [parts|Refrigerator|replace it unit|itemtype=thermal_fuse] if the reading is more than 1Ω.

== Faulty Defrost Heater ==

The defrost heater melts frost off the evaporator fins. If the defrost heater fails, the frost stays put, and the entire evaporator eventually becomes ice.

[image|2911554|size=original|align=center]

* Locate the defrost heater. If you notice any bumps or cracks, replace immediately.
* [guide|25632|Continuity test the heater|new_window=true]. A resistance value outside 50-120Ω will need to be replaced with a [parts|Refrigerator|new unit|itemtype=heating_elements].

== Faulty Defrost Timer ==

The defrost timer is in charge of initiating 30 minute heating cycles every 10 hours of fridge run time. If this unit fails, your fridge will be stuck in either the heating or cooling cycle. It's time to [link|https://youtu.be/Mmu0xf34bmk?t=76|test the defrost timer].

* In units with an adaptive defrost control board, you'll have to manually enable the defrost cycle.
** For some models turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds, then on for 5 seconds. Repeat this two more times, then turn the thermostat off.
** Defrost cycle should be turned on. Test temperature with a thermometer to see if your fridge is heating up.
* With a manual timer, test between terminals 1 and 4 for [guide|25632|continuity|new_window=true].
** Continuity here means that the cooling cycle is operating.
* [link|https://youtu.be/WXPG5MtmKak?t=106|Rotate the manual dial until hearing a click]. Now test between pins 1 and 2 for continuity. This means that the heating cycle is working, and there should be no continuity between pins 1 and 4.
* Replace timer with a [parts|Refrigerator|new one|itemtype=timers] if continuity tests fail, or fridge doesn't enter defrost mode.

== Temperature Control Thermostat Failure ==

If the refrigerator still does not get cold enough, the temperature control thermostat (also called bi-metal thermostat) might be faulty. The thermostat allows power to flow through to the compressor, evaporator fan, and condenser fan. If the cooling system fans and compressor are running, but the refrigerator or freezer is not cooling correctly, check for an airflow or defrost system problem.

* [guide|25632|Continuity test the thermostat|new_window=true].
* Make sure it's cold from the fridge or sitting in ice water.
* Replace with a [parts|Refrigerator|new one|itemtype=thermostats] if its resistance value is outside of 0-1Ω.

== Thermistor Failure ==

Another problem that prevents your fridge from getting cold enough is a faulty thermistor. The thermistor is a sensor that monitors temperature. It is connected to the control board. If a thermistor is defective, the refrigerator may not cool (or may cool continuously). This is not likely if the compressor is running but the unit is not cooling.

There may be up to four thermistors on your fridge:

* The fresh food compartment thermistor
* The fresh food defrost thermistor
* The freezer compartment thermistor
* The freezer defrost thermistor

The compartment thermistors sense the air temperature in the compartment they are placed in. The defrost thermistors sense the evaporator temperature during a defrost cycle and prevent the defrost heater from overheating the evaporator.  Since many refrigerators have evaporators in both the freezer and fresh food sections you can end up with four (or even five if the unit has an ambient air thermistor)

[image|2910610|size=original|align=center]

Grab a multimeter and [guide|25632|continuity test the thermistor|new_window=true].  Place the thermistor tip into a cup of ice water made from ice, water (just enough to cover the ice) and salt. You will need to find information on the resistance value expected for your refrigerator's various thermistors at 32°F (0°C).

Another possible cause is the defrost thermistor. This can keep the defrost cycle from running fully, allowing ice to build up, which will cause temperature problems in the refrigerator either because the evaporator in the freezer frosts up or because the fresh food compartment defrost is failing in a dual evaporator system.

If the [parts|Refrigerator|thermistors|itemtype=thermistors] test ok go on to the next item.

== Temperature Control Board Failure ==

If the refrigerator is not cold enough, the temperature control board might be defective. The temperature control board provides voltage to the fan motors and compressor. The electronic control board starts the defrost cycle and regulates how often they are triggered. If the control board fails, your fridge will not be able to defrost automatically.

* These [parts|Refrigerator|boards|itemtype=control_panels] are often misdiagnosed. Check all other components to be certain this is the cause of the problem.

== Faulty Capacitor ==

Since the compressor is likely running for the freezer to work, this isn't as likely a failure. If the capacitor has failed, the compressor will not be able to start and run as it should. Most newer refrigerators use a run capacitor, which stays in the circuit and improves the energy efficiency of the compressor. Some older refrigerators may have a start capacitor, which functions just at startup. These are not as common.

You may be able to tell what kind you have by looking at a couple of factors. Many run capacitors are polymer-type capacitors with a small rectangular block shape. There are cylindrical run capacitors, but they are less common (some LG fridges have them). The capacitance values of run capacitors tend to be smaller on refrigerators, something between 10 and 22µF (µF stands for microfarads, also abbreviated MFD).

[image|2911562|size=original|caption=A Typical Run Capacitor]

Safely remove the capacitor and [guide|75901|discharge|new_window=true] with a discharge tool.

On smaller capacitors, you can use a screwdriver with an insulated handle to discharge it. But [link|https://youtu.be/eQsfuS0VjJE?t=304|be careful] as capacitors increase in size.

Test the capacitor with a capacitance meter; [parts|Refrigerator|replace it|itemtype=capacitors] if the value measured is outside the tolerance listed on the capacitor (usually +/- 5-10%).

A very quick functional check for a capacitor is to set your multimeter to the continuity function with the beeper on. Connect the capacitor to the leads for a few seconds. Then, swap the leads to the opposite terminals. If the capacitor is at least storing some charge, you should get a short beep. This will not tell you if the capacitance is correct, only that the capacitor will store charge.

When you replace a capacitor, get the exact type of the existing capacitor and the same capacitance value. You can safely use a capacitor with  the same or higher voltage rating than the original.

If everything checks out, go to the next item.

== Refrigerant Leaks ==

If there is a refrigerant leak, the fridge won't be able to maintain a proper temperature. Your compressor is likely running non-stop.

* Contact a service technician to inspect your compressor.
* This may result in refilling or replacing your refrigerant, or replacing the entire fridge.

== Main Control Board Failure ==

Finally, if the refrigerator won’t get cold enough, the main control board might be defective. This is not common.

* Check and test the defrost system, cooling fans, and cooling controls first.
* If none of the other components are defective, consider [parts|Refrigerator|replacing the main control board|itemtype=boards].

== Faulty Compressor ==

The compressor is your fridge's workhorse. By pressurizing the refrigerant, the compressor ultimately enables the evaporator to chill air. If the compressor is very noisy when you start it up, that's a bad sign, but give it 90 seconds or so to stabilize and get quieter.

[video|https://youtu.be/zYIC7LMkKak?t=129]

* Test the compressor for continuity by following the video above.
* Resistance values vary based on the compressor.
* Values outside of the range or a short to ground will mean replacing the compressor with a [parts|Refrigerator|new one|itemtype=compressors], which is a costly repair.
* If your fridge is over a few years old, you may be better off replacing the fridge instead of the compressor.

== Compressor Inverter Board Failure ==

Modern refrigerator compressor technology has shifted from single-phase motors to 3-phase DC-controlled AC motors.

This means that instead of the start relay assembly normally attached to the compressor pins — the start relay, overload relay, and overload capacitor — there is now a sealed motherboard and many wires. The inverter board modulates the power supplied to the compressor, allowing for more efficient operation.

[image|2928869|size=large|align=center]

This new technology is harder to test, so this video may be helpful.

[video|https://youtu.be/Tq1jBtjjiFY?t=128]

The inverter board must be tested by the process of elimination.

* First, test the input voltages. The inverter board will have both a 120V AC main power supply voltage and a 4-6V DC voltage from the main control board. Remember to make all voltage measurements with everything connected.
* If one of these voltages is missing, the inverter board will not work.
** Backtrack to find the issue. You could have a faulty wire harness connector, a bad motherboard, or another issue.
* Second, follow the compressor continuity testing from above to verify your compressor isn't shorted and is okay.
** If the compressor is fine, and the board input voltages are fine, then your [parts|Refrigerator|inverter board|itemtype=boards] has failed and needs replacing.
[comment]conclusion[/comment]

== Related Pages ==

[[Refrigerator Maintenance#Section_Annual_Maintenance|Refrigerator Maintenance|new_window=true]]

[[Refrigerator Not Cooling|Refrigerator Not Cooling|new_window=true]]

== Additional Resources ==

[link|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nx7l9kY2_bU|Testing Fridge Compressor Relays]

[link|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PmK4ArtR5pQ|Testing Appliance Capacitors]

Italiano

[title|Il compressore del frigorifero funziona ma non raffredda]

[summary]Il tuo frigorifero ha perso il freddo? Il compressore funziona mentre l'alimentazione è accesa? Segui queste correzioni per far funzionare nuovamente il componente più importante del tuo frigorifero.[/summary]

[summary_image|2930423]

Il compressore è il cuore del tuo frigorifero. La diagnosi dei problemi del compressore inizia ascoltando il tuo frigorifero: quando e dove appare il suono? Uno stetoscopio può aiutare a rispondere a queste domande. Allontana il frigorifero dal muro e ascolta.

* Se riesci a sentire il compressore in funzione ma il frigorifero non raffredda, molto probabilmente il problema sono le [[Refrigerator Compressor Running But Not Cooling#Section_Malfunzionamento_del_sistema_di_sbrinamento|bobine dell'evaporatore ostruite dal gelo]] o una [[Refrigerator Compressor Not Running#Section_Motore_del_ventilatore_di_condensatore_o_evaporatore_guasto|ventola dell'evaporatore bloccata o rotta]].
* Se non si sente alcun suono e il compressore non funziona, o si sente un clic, ispeziona [[Refrigerator Compressor Not Running#Section_Relè_di_sovraccarico_difettoso|relè di sovraccarico]], [[Refrigerator Compressor Not Running#Section_Relè_di_avvio_difettoso|relè di avvio]] e [[Refrigerator Compressor Not Running#Section_Condensatore_di_avvio_difettoso|condensatore di avvio]].
* Se senti un ronzio forte e costante che non si spegne, il [[Refrigerator Compressor Not Running#Section_Compressore_difettoso|il compressore potrebbe essere rotto]] o c'è una [[Refrigerator Compressor Not Running#Section_Perdite_di_refrigerante|perdita di refrigerante]].

== Primi passi ==

=== Manutenzione regolare ===

È importante eseguire una manutenzione regolare del frigorifero prima di provare queste soluzioni. Il tuo elettrodomestico dovrebbe durare almeno 10-15 anni prima di dover essere sostituito, quindi mantienilo funzionante con questi [[Refrigerator Maintenance|suggerimenti|new_window=true]].

[quote]***Nota sulla sicurezza: spegni il frigorifero***

Prima di rimuovere e sostituire o testare la continuità dei componenti elettrici, spegni il frigorifero. Ciò eviterà danni ai componenti ed eviterà che tu rimanga fulminato. Tuttavia, alcuni componenti elettrici, come i condensatori, immagazzineranno la loro carica e non dovrebbero essere manomessi.

* Se il frigorifero è lontano dalla parete o se l'interruttore di alimentazione è facilmente accessibile, rimuovere la spina.
* Altrimenti, trova l'interruttore del frigorifero nella scatola degli interruttori e spegni il circuito.
** Verifica che il tuo frigorifero non ha più corrente aprendo le porte e controllando se le luci del frigorifero si accendono.[/quote]

[quote]***Nota sulla sicurezza: lamiera tagliente***

Quando lavori sotto il frigorifero, indossa guanti per evitare tagli provocati dalla lamiera tagliente. La lamiera è il sottile metallo strutturale su cui vengono montati i componenti. Anche se indossare i guanti può rendere il lavoro più impegnativo, vale la pena proteggersi.[/quote]

=== Ripristina alimentazione ===

Quando i frigoriferi subiscono interruzioni temporanee di corrente, potrebbero entrare in modalità provvisoria. Questa modalità protegge i componenti interni del frigorifero dal sovraccarico elettrico. Dovrai ripristinare l'alimentazione del frigorifero.

* Scollega il frigorifero. Se la spina è troppo difficile da raggiungere, spegnere l'interruttore automatico.
* Attendi 5 minuti prima di ridare alimentazione al frigorifero.
* Una volta ripristinata la corrente, apri il congelatore e premi l'interruttore della luce 3 volte per attivare un ciclo di raffreddamento.
* Monitora la temperatura nelle prossime 24 ore.
[comment]solutions[/comment]

== Bobine del condensatore sporche ==

Sul retro e sul fondo del frigorifero si trovano il condensatore e le relative serpentine. Il refrigerante passa attraverso le serpentine che dissipano il calore durante il ciclo di raffreddamento. Man mano che polvere e detriti si accumulano sulle serpentine, il frigorifero diventa meno efficiente e il compressore deve lavorare di più per raffreddarsi. In alcuni casi, il compressore potrebbe funzionare costantemente nel tentativo di raffreddare il frigorifero.

[image|2916903|size=original|align=center]

* Tira fuori il frigorifero e ispeziona le bobine.
** Il frigorifero potrebbe essere dotato di staffa antiribaltamento e può essere rimosso solo estraendolo direttamente dalla parete.
* Rimuovi la polvere dalle bobine del condensatore e dalla ventola con una spazzola rigida e un aspirapolvere.
* Lavora con attenzione durante questa operazione ed evita di piegare o danneggiare i tubi.

== Motore del ventilatore di condensatore o evaporatore guasto ==

La ventola del ***condensatore*** aspira l'aria sopra il compressore e attraverso le serpentine del condensatore. Se il motore della ventola non funziona normalmente, il frigorifero non raffredda correttamente. Normalmente si trova nella parte inferiore del frigorifero e soffia aria sulle serpentine del condensatore.

[image|2911538|size=original|align=center]

* Controlla la pala della ventola per eventuali ostruzioni fisiche
* Ruota manualmente la ventola. Se non gira liberamente, sostituisci il motore.
* Se gira liberamente, [guide|25632|testa la continuità del motore|new_window=true]. [link|https://youtube.com/watch?v=tb1aPLzo96o|Sostituisci il motore della ventola del condensatore] se il test di continuità fallisce.

La ***ventola dell'evaporatore*** aspira l'aria sopra le serpentine di raffreddamento e la fa circolare all'interno degli scomparti del frigorifero e del congelatore. La ventola dell'evaporatore dovrebbe funzionare finché il motore del compressore è in funzione. Se il tuo frigorifero è dotato di un solo motore della ventola dell'evaporatore, si trova nello scomparto congelatore. Quando la ventola si guasta, non farà circolare l'aria fredda nel frigorifero. In questo caso, il congelatore potrebbe ancora raffreddarsi mentre il frigorifero rimane caldo.

[image|2911537|size=original|align=center]

* Controlla la pala della ventola per eventuali ostruzioni fisiche.
* Nota: la ventola potrebbe non funzionare se è ghiacciata a causa di
* Guida per un [[Freezer Ice Building Up|freezer che produce ghiaccio|new_window=true]].
* Ruota manualmente la ventola. Se non gira liberamente, sostituisci il motore.
* Se gira liberamente, [guide|25632|testa la continuità del motore|new_window=true]. [link|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-g2OKp40AU|Sostituisci il motore della ventola dell'evaporatore] se il test di continuità fallisce.
* Anche un motore insolitamente rumoroso dovrebbe essere sostituito.

== Malfunzionamento del sistema di sbrinamento ==

Se il coperchio dell'evaporatore del congelatore è coperto di cristalli di ghiaccio o comunque ghiacciato, c'è un problema con il sistema di sbrinamento.

=== Tipo di sbrinamento ===

Gli apparecchi antigelo regolano la temperatura per prevenire la formazione di ghiaccio. I sistemi di sbrinamento automatici e adattivi prevengono e rimuovono l'accumulo di ghiaccio facendo circolare il calore secondo necessità; i sistemi automatici in genere funzionano con un timer, mentre i sistemi adattivi utilizzano sensori per determinare quando far circolare il calore.

== Risoluzione iniziale dei problemi ==

I congelatori più moderni dispongono di un sistema di sbrinamento automatico. Questo sistema di sbrinamento è composto da quattro parti principali: un riscaldatore di sbrinamento, un termostato bimetallico, una scheda di controllo elettronica e un termistore. Iniziamo la risoluzione dei problemi del sistema del riscaldatore di sbrinamento.

* Verifica se il riscaldatore di sbrinamento funziona. Metti il congelatore in modalità di sbrinamento forzato. Su alcuni modelli si accede a questa modalità premendo il sensore della porta 5 volte in 2 secondi. Il controller emetterà un segnale acustico e verrà avviata la modalità di sbrinamento. È possibile uscire da questa modalità scollegando il frigorifero.
** Se questa procedura non funziona, controlla la scheda tecnica situata sotto o dietro il frigorifero per le procedure specifiche.
* Controlla se il riscaldatore si scalda.
** Se si surriscalda, passa alla sezione [[Freezer Ice Building Up#Section_Sensore_di_temperatura_di_sbrinamento_del_termistore_difettoso|del termistore|new_window=true]].
** Se non si riscalda, inizia la risoluzione dei problemi del sistema a partire dal riscaldatore di sbrinamento.

== Fusibile termico di sbrinamento ==

Come un interruttore che scatta sotto un carico di corrente, il fusibile termico potrebbe scattare e bruciarsi quando l'apparecchio si surriscalda. Un segno che il fusibile potrebbe essere bruciato è che l'evaporatore si è congelato.

* Testa la continuità del fusibile e sostituiscilo se la lettura è superiore a 1Ω

== Riscaldatore di sbrinamento difettoso ==

Il riscaldatore di sbrinamento scioglie la brina dalle alette dell'evaporatore. Se il riscaldatore di sbrinamento si guasta, la brina rimane e l'intero frigorifero alla fine diventa ghiaccio.

[image|2911554|size=original|align=center]

* Individua il riscaldatore di sbrinamento. Se noti irregolarità o crepe, sostituiscilo immediatamente.
* [guide|25632|Testa la continuità del riscaldatore|new_window=true]. Un valore di resistenza fuori da 50-120Ω significa che il riscaldatore dovrà essere sostituito.

== Timer di sbrinamento difettoso ==

Il timer di sbrinamento ha il compito di avviare cicli di riscaldamento di 30 minuti ogni 10 ore di funzionamento del frigorifero. Se questa unità si guasta, il tuo frigorifero rimarrà bloccato nel ciclo di riscaldamento o raffreddamento. È ora di [link|https://youtu.be/Mmu0xf34bmk?t=76|testare il timer di sbrinamento].

* Nelle unità dotate di scheda di controllo dello sbrinamento adattivo, sarà necessario abilitare manualmente il ciclo di sbrinamento.
** Spegni il termostato per 15 secondi, poi accendilo per 5 secondi. Ripeti l'operazione altre due volte, quindi spegni il termostato.
** Il ciclo di sbrinamento dovrebbe essersi attivato. Testa la temperatura con un termometro per vedere se il tuo frigorifero si sta riscaldando.
* Con un timer manuale, testa la [guide|25632|continuità|new_window=true] tra i terminali 1 e 4.
** Continuità qui significa che il ciclo di raffreddamento è in funzione.
* [link|https://youtu.be/WXPG5MtmKak?t=106|Ruota la ghiera manuale fino a sentire un clic]. Ora prova la continuità tra i pin 1 e 2. Ciò significa che il ciclo di riscaldamento è in funzione e non dovrebbe esserci continuità tra i pin 1 e 4.
* Sostituisci il timer se i test di continuità falliscono o se il frigorifero non entra in modalità sbrinamento.

== Guasto al termostato di controllo della temperatura ==

Se il frigorifero non si raffredda ancora abbastanza, il termostato di controllo della temperatura (chiamato anche termostato bimetallico) potrebbe essere difettoso. Il termostato consente il flusso di energia al compressore, alla ventola dell'evaporatore e alla ventola del condensatore. Se le ventole e il compressore del sistema di raffreddamento sono in funzione, ma il frigorifero o il congelatore non si raffredda correttamente, verificare la presenza di un problema al flusso d'aria o al sistema di sbrinamento.

* [guide|25632|Testa la continuità del termostato|new_window=true].
* Assicurati che sia freddo dal frigorifero o seduto in acqua ghiacciata.
* Sostituiscilo se il suo valore di resistenza è esterno a 0-1Ω.

== Termistore difettoso (sensore della temperatura di sbrinamento) ==

Un altro problema che impedisce al frigorifero di raffreddarsi abbastanza è un termistore difettoso. Il termistore è un sensore che monitora la temperatura dell'aria. È collegato alla scheda di controllo. Se il termistore è difettoso, il frigorifero non raffredda (o potrebbe raffreddarsi continuamente).

[image|2910610|size=original|align=center]

* Prendi un multimetro e [guide|25632|testa la continuità del termistore|new_window=true]. È possibile misurare il termistore se la temperatura è di 7 gradi Celsius o più fredda. Metti la punta del termistore in una tazza di acqua ghiacciata e lasciala raffreddare se la temperatura è superiore a quella target.
* Se il valore non è compreso tra 10 e 15 kΩ, sostituisci il sensore di temperatura.

== Guasto alla scheda di controllo della temperatura ==

Se il frigorifero non è abbastanza freddo, la scheda di controllo della temperatura potrebbe essere difettosa. La scheda di controllo della temperatura fornisce tensione ai motori dei ventilatori e al compressore. La scheda elettronica avvia il ciclo di sbrinamento e ne regola la frequenza di intervento. Se il controllo fallisce, il frigorifero non sarà in grado di sbrinarsi automaticamente.

* Queste schede vengono spesso diagnosticate erroneamente. Controlla tutti gli altri componenti per accertarti che questa sia la causa del problema.

== Condensatore di avvio difettoso ==

A volte, se il frigorifero non è abbastanza freddo, il compressore potrebbe avere difficoltà ad avviarsi. Il condensatore di avviamento funge da batteria per fornire al compressore una spinta di potenza durante l'avvio. Se il condensatore di avviamento è bruciato e emana odore di bruciato, il compressore potrebbe non essere in grado di avviarsi e funzionare tutte le volte che dovrebbe.

[image|2911562|size=original]

* Rimuovi in modo sicuro il condensatore e [guide|75901|scaricalo|new_window=true] con uno strumento di scarica.
** Sui condensatori più piccoli è possibile utilizzare un cacciavite per scaricare. Ma [link|https://youtu.be/eQsfuS0VjJE?t=304|fai attenzione] poiché i condensatori aumentano di dimensioni.
* [link|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PmK4ArtR5pQ|Testa prima il condensatore di avviamento] con un capacimetro; non falliscono spesso. Se è difettoso, sostituiscilo.

== Relè di sovraccarico difettoso ==

Il relè di sovraccarico è un dispositivo di protezione nel circuito del compressore ed è spesso combinato con il relè di avviamento. Puoi trovarlo collegato direttamente al lato del compressore. Se le ventole sono in funzione e il compressore non si avvia o se si sente un clic proveniente dall'unità, segui la procedura di risoluzione dei problemi di seguito.

{table
|width=100%
|format=50%c:c
| [image|2910795|size=large|align=center]
| [image|2916847|size=large|align=center]
}

* Controlla il relè di sovraccarico per eventuali segni di surriscaldamento o archi.
** Potrebbe trattarsi di un modulo caldo, bruciato o che vibra quando viene scosso.
* [guide|25632|Controlla la continuità|new_window=true] con un multimetro.
** [link|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PmK4ArtR5pQ|Capovolgi l'unità] e riprova. Se non c'è continuità, sostituire l'unità.

== Relè di avvio difettoso ==

Il relè di avviamento è un piccolo dispositivo montato sul lato del compressore. Fornisce energia all'avvolgimento di marcia, insieme all'avvolgimento di avvio, per una frazione di secondo all'avvio per aiutare a far funzionare il compressore. Se il relè di avvio è difettoso, il compressore potrebbe funzionare in modo intermittente o non funzionare affatto e il frigorifero non si raffredderà abbastanza. Il relè di avviamento deve essere sostituito se difettoso.

[video|https://youtu.be/nx7l9kY2_bU?t=22]

* Testa il relè di avvio con un multimetro. Guarda il video sopra e verifica se il relè di avviamento funziona.
* Sostituisci il relè se non supera il test o se emana odore di bruciato. A seconda del relè di avviamento, potrebbe essere necessario testare prima il condensatore di avviamento e il relè di sovraccarico e utilizzare un processo di eliminazione. Se gli altri due componenti superano i test di continuità e il compressore non si avvia, prova a sostituire il relè di avvio.

== Compressore difettoso ==

Il compressore, chiamato anche condensatore, è il cavallo di battaglia del tuo frigorifero. Pressurizzando il refrigerante, l'evaporatore è in grado di creare aria fredda. Se il compressore è molto rumoroso quando lo avvii, potrebbe essere stato danneggiato durante il trasporto o potresti semplicemente avere un compressore difettoso.

Se il relè di sovraccarico, il relè di avvio e il condensatore di avvio superano il test di continuità, è possibile che il compressore sia difettoso.

[video|https://youtu.be/zYIC7LMkKak?t=129]

* Testa la continuità del compressore seguendo il video sopra.
* I valori di resistenza variano in base al compressore.
* Valori fuori range o un cortocircuito verso massa comporteranno la sostituzione del compressore, che è una riparazione costosa.
* Se il tuo frigorifero ha più di qualche anno, potrebbe essere meglio sostituire il frigorifero invece del compressore.

== Guasto alla scheda inverter del compressore ==

La moderna tecnologia dei compressori per frigoriferi è passata dai motori DC monofase ai motori AC trifase controllati da DC.

Ciò significa che al posto del gruppo relè di avviamento normalmente collegato ai pin del compressore (relè di avviamento, relè di sovraccarico e condensatore di sovraccarico) ora c'è una scheda madre sigillata e numerosi cavi. La scheda inverter modula la potenza fornita al compressore e consente un funzionamento più efficiente.

[image|2928869|size=large|align=center]

Questa nuova tecnologia è più difficile da testare, quindi questo video potrebbe essere utile.

[video|https://youtu.be/Tq1jBtjjiFY?t=128]

La scheda inverter deve essere testata mediante processo di eliminazione.

* Innanzitutto, testa le tensioni di ingresso. La scheda inverter avrà sia una tensione di alimentazione principale da 120 V AC, sia una tensione da 4-6 V DC proveniente dalla scheda di controllo principale. Ricordati di effettuare tutte le misurazioni della tensione con tutto ciò che è collegato.
* Se manca una di queste tensioni la scheda inverter non funzionerà.
** Torna indietro per individuare il problema. Potresti avere un connettore del cablaggio difettoso, una scheda madre difettosa o un altro problema.
* In secondo luogo, segui il test di continuità del compressore riportato sopra per verificare che il compressore non sia in cortocircuito e che sia a posto.
** Se il compressore e le tensioni di ingresso della scheda sono a posto, la scheda dell'inverter è guasta e deve essere sostituita.

== Perdite di refrigerante ==

Se c'è una perdita di refrigerante, il frigorifero non sarà in grado di mantenere una temperatura adeguata. Probabilmente il tuo compressore funziona ininterrottamente.

* Contatta un tecnico dell'assistenza per ispezionare il compressore.
* Ciò potrebbe comportare il rabbocco o la sostituzione del refrigerante oppure la sostituzione dell'intero frigorifero.

== Guasto alla scheda di controllo principale ==

Infine, se il frigorifero non si raffredda abbastanza, la scheda di controllo principale potrebbe essere difettosa. Questo non è comune.

* Controlla e testa prima il sistema di sbrinamento, le ventole di raffreddamento e i controlli di raffreddamento.
* Se nessuno degli altri componenti è difettoso, prendere in considerazione la sostituzione della scheda di controllo principale.
[comment]conclusion[/comment]

== Pagine correlate ==

[[Refrigerator Maintenance#Section_Annual_Maintenance|Manutenzione del frigorifero|new_window=true]]

[[Refrigerator Not Cooling|Il frigorifero non raffredda|new_window=true]]

== Risorse aggiuntive ==

[link|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nx7l9kY2_bU|Test dei relè del compressore del frigorifero]

[link|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PmK4ArtR5pQ|Test dei condensatori per apparecchi]