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Repair and further information for the GE Profile Refrigerator PYE22KSK****, a 2016 built-in, French door refrigerator with a bottom-mounted freezer and automatic defrost system. This page covers information for model numbers matching the pattern PYE22KSK****.

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Erratic temp in refrigerator - freezer is fine

Model Number

PYE22KSKFSS

Brand

GE

Age

1-5 years

Freezer was working fine, but refrigerator temp had climbed up to 58 degrees - temp set at 36 (I have a sensorpush in it to monitor performance after an issue a few years ago). Tech came out and replaced the FAN DC FF EVAP (Fresh food drawer evap fan). He ran Turbo Cool which drew the temp down to -3 before it settled into a range between 57.8 and 31.9. Previously it was very steady. He came back out and ran diagnostics again, no error codes. He said I didn't have enough stuff in it to work properly. We loaded it up with items and pattern still continues. Suggestions?

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Hi @ac110229

Please describe the temp range behaviour?

a). Does it get to 31.9°F and then stay around this temp for a long while e.g. ~8 hours and then go up to 57.8°F and stay there for say an hour and then come back down to 31.9°F?

b). Does it just move between the two temps constantly e.g. starts at 31.9°F and then drifts up to 57.8°F and goes back down to 31.9°F etc?

c). What temp does the refrigerator's display panel show when the log shows the high and low temps or are you looking at it after the event?

If a). then perhaps it is a refrigerator compartment evaporator thermistor (aka defrost thermistor) problem.

If b). then perhaps it may be a refrigerator temp thermistor problem (there are two temp thermistors in the refrigerator section).

I realize that the Tech ran the tests and it showed nothing amiss but reading the service data sheet (see below) it says the FF thermistor tests and the FF evap thermistor test only whether they are "out of range" and not that it is indicating the correct temp at the time. To me this just proves that they're within their high and low temperature/resistance parameters and not that they're reading correctly. Maybe double check that the refrigerator temp thermistors are OK. There are two refrigerator temp thermistors, diagnostic tests 00 24 (FF1) and 00 25 (FF2) thermistor test. Evaporator thermsitor test 00 26 (FF Evaporator)

Initially maybe just some general checks if only to eliminate them.

  • Check that the refrigerator door seals are all OK and that they're providing a good seal. Place a sheet of paper between the door and the door jamb and with the door closed normally, try to pull it out. It will come out with a bit of an effort but not that easily. It definitely shouldn't fall out by itself. Do this at various places around the door, top, bottom and both sides. Also check the door alignment to make sure that it is straight and parallel to the cabinet in case it's a hinge problem.
  • Check that the refrigerator lights turn off. With the door open manually operate the door switch and check if the lights turn off.
  • Check that the condenser unit (under the compartments near the compressor) is clean and free of dust etc. If it is covered in dust, vacuum it clean. Dust buildup on the condenser unit prevents the heat absorbed by the refrigerant as it passes through the evaporator units (your model has two - one in each compartment) from being released more quickly as the refrigerant passes through the condenser and this can impact on the cooling efficiency of the system.

Here's the service data sheet anyway, that may also help. It shows how to perform the diagnostic tests and has the wiring diagrams as well.

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Reponses to questions:

a. No, it appears the coldest temp over a week period is 33.7.

b. Temp and humidity are on a corresponding fluctuating pattern throughout a 24hr period from 33.7 - 52.4d and 39.3%-97.3% peak and valley 4 times. Check my profile pic for the graphic. Fluctuates to a lesser degree between the peaks.

c. Fridge doesn't have the capability to display current temp, only set temp.

da

@ac110229

Looking at the graph you provided it seems to me that it is too warm approx once every 6 hours - almost like a defrost cycle is occurring.

This is when the defrost heater under the evap unit is turned on and the compressor and the fans are turned off so that the ice can be melted off the evap unit. The temp in the compartment is allowed to rise to aid in the melting process. It shouldn't get that high as the defrost thermistor should signal when to turn the heater off so as to prevent damage to the evap unit.

The problem is that your model (according to the service data sheet) has "adaptive" defrost control and not a set time interval defrost cycle so this regular occurrence shouldn't apply. That is instead of being regularly defrosted say every 6 hours, the defrost cycle time interval (or when to defrost) is determined by how many times the doors have been opened and the running time of the compressor. An algorithm in a processor on the control board then determines when to defrost. This is done to reduce the number of times per day that the defrost cycle has to occur.

Given that the problem is only in the refrigerator compartment, I'm wondering if it is "defrosting" too often due to a faulty control board and the temp logger is just sensing the heat from the defrost heater under the evap unit. Where is the temp logger located? If it is near the back of the compartment, move it to the front and check the readings
Found this link regarding adaptive defrost which may be of interest. The resistance of the thermistors in the refrigerator is 16.3K Ohms @ 32F if you want to check that it is OK.

Did you check the door seals etc, you didn't say?

Note: You can add images to a question or an answer but not a comment in ifixit . Here's how Aggiungere immagini ad una domanda. The procedure is the same for both an existing (or new) question or an answer.

da

Ok good info and BTW, thanks so much for your assistance on this.

Yes, did conduct the door/paper test yesterday and all was good on all 4 sides of each door.

The temp logger was on the top shelf 3/4 towards the back. Moved it down 1 shelf and to the front.

We have a different repair person coming in the next couple hours. Going to give them a chance but if they are stumped, going to give them your log here.

da

@jayeff Since our last exchange, the GE techs have been out 2 more times and we have made no progress. They replaced the fan again. Unless the fridge is throwing an error code, they don't want to do anything. No critical thinking, no troubleshooting. I certainly agree with your description of the possible problem above and have read through testing the thermistors. Your description of the defrost cycles is exactly what's happening. We pulled the temp logger out of the freezer and have two in different locations in the fridge with nearly identical readings over a 48-hour period. I may be doing some YouTube training on how to repair refrigerators unless you have another suggestion?

da

@ac110229

Did you check that the refrigerator door switch was turning off the light?

Just thinking if the problem was associated with a defrost action and it is adaptive defrost an intermittently faulty door switch may be "telling" the control that the door was open when it's not.

If the defrost cycle is dependent on door openings amongst other things e.g. compressor run time etc this may fool the control that it is opening more often that it should, but again this doesn't explain the regular nature of it happening.

Also I think that your model has a "deli drawer" is this correct?

If so check that it hasn't got a switch of some sort associated with it. Had a case a few years back with a GE fridge where a similar drawer had a switch that operated when the drawer was slid out to access the food and the control board was being affected by it because the switch was corroded. The switch wasn't mentioned in the parts list.

You may also want to try a power reset if you haven't already done or or if it wasn't done during a repair. Disconnect the power to the refrigerator for about 5-10 minutes, reconnect it and then check the logger after a suitable period of time. usually removing power for a short while won't affect the food etc but it may reset any software glitches that may be being stored in the control board. Not much to lose by trying this except a bit of time .-)

da

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Hey AC1.. any luck on this? Having the same exact issue.

Would love to hear if you made any progress.

I also replaced my FF evap fan, FF thermistor & main board with reoccurrence.

Seems to be a common issue with GE without resolution. Mine is also only 5 years old.

Thanks!

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We gave up. I did reach out to GE on twitter and they refunded all the money I spent trying to repair. Also gave me $300 towards new one.

da

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AC1 sarà eternamente grato.
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