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S162 Drone Motor Not Working

Hi I'm new. Nice to join the forum looks great. Hope I can be of some value in return.

I have a S162 drone, it got caught in a tree. I managed to get it down shaking the branch. But landed in some wet mud. That got in one of the motors and cogs. I've replaced both it still wont go. The other 3 motors spin.

I've plugged the new motor built up in the arm in to the opposite side motor and all moves freely. So its like there's no power coming from the board. Ive checked the ESC and cannot see anything wrong.

Any ideas?

Thank you

Update (07/18/2020)

Pictures posted of the board hopefully

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Risposto! View the answer Anch'io ho questo problema

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Just want to make sure I understand you correctly, so you have tried a motor that doesn't work on one mount but it works on the other ones?

Please add some pictures of the mount, connections and circuit board, it will help to understand what the problem may be. Aggiungere immagini ad una domanda

da

Hi thanks for the reply. I bought a new motor and cog as the other was dead. Built it up in the arm. Doesnt work in the plug. But if I plug it in to the motor the other side it spins. So know its not the motor.

I cannot see anything obvious with the board. Will post some pics.

da

@Colin Branagh

How does it look if you unplug the connector, can you see any bent/dirty pins?

da

Found this looks like its exploded

da

@Colin Branagh

Can you add a picture on it?

da

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Soluzione Prescelta

I guess there might be a dry joint on the connector or something, or perhaps a hairline crack in the board - this might have happened if the crash tore that motor off, pulling violently on the cable, or if you were very careless about unplugging it, possibly - you’ll need to examine the board very closely and trace the signals back from the connector and test with a meter to establish that.


Probably more likely though that the FETs supplying that motor have expired because of overcurrent when the motor jammed - again, you’ll need to trace things around and work out what the motor connections are connected to - can’t see anything on top of the board that looks like FETs for the motor channels, each one appears to have a fairly robust looking diode associated (e.g. D2) but those will probably not be broken. Maybe the 8-pin packages underneath the board might be H-bridges or multi-FET packages or something. An oscilloscope would really help to track down the problem, because you could see for sure whether the control signal was getting to the FET, whether the FET was working, etc. If you can identify the driver for the channel you could try replacing it but it’s likely to be fiddly.


I don’t know if you can get the flight controller board as a spare, but I’m guessing it’s the same as in the 2k camera version of the same drone and I think those can be obtained pretty cheaply - might be an idea to lay in a spare drone (perhaps a s/h crashed one) to cannibalise for a controller board, and then repair the original board at your leisure.

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Those 8-legged chips under the board are probably these, or some other maker's equivalent: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/motor-dri... They don't cost much and are fairly easy to swap - to get the old one off, snip the pins with very small flush cutters then wipe each remaining "foot" off with a soldering iron (this is easier than trying to heat all of them at once and lifting the chip intact, unless you have or can be bothered to make a soldering iron bit that has two bars of the exact right size and spacing to heat all the pins at once.

Once the pads are cleaned, you can place a replacement chip with a small patch of double sided tape under the plastic bit to keep it in place and solder each pin in turn. Make sure you note the orientation of the chip before removing it! There will be a dot, line or dimple indicating the "pin 1" end of the package.

da

Soldering these with anything bigger than 0.5mm diameter solder and a very fine bit will be fraught, but it can be done - one approach is to allow solder to blob across all the pins and then remove the excess with desolder braid.

da

Just to add to this, don't be tempted to use a hot air blower to desolder the chip, as the board has components both sides and something on the other side will likely fall off...

da

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Colin Branagh sarà eternamente grato.
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