Difficoltà
Moderato
Passi
30
Tempo Necessario
30 minuti - 2 ore
- Pentalobe Schrauben 1 passo
- Überkleben des Displays 1 passo
- Öffnungsvorgang 10 passi
- Displayeinheit 8 passi
- Rückkamera 5 passi
- Logic Board 5 passi
Guida con Contributo Membro
Uno straordinario membro della nostra comunità ha realizzato questa guida. Non è gestita dallo staff iFixit.
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Schalte dein iPhone aus, bevor du anfängst.
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Entferne die beiden 6,7 mm langen Pentalobe Schrauben an der Unterkante des iPhones.
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Wenn das Display deines iPhones gesprungen ist, kannst du es mit Klebeband abkleben, damit es nicht weiter zersplittert und du dich nicht daran verletzt.
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Platziere Klebestreifen überlappend über die gesamte Oberfläche des Displays.
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Falls der Saugheber in den nächsten Schritten durch das gesplitterte Glas nicht gut anhaftet, empfiehlt es sich, ein Stück starkes Klebeband so zu falten, dass es als Griff benutzt werden kann, um das Display anzuheben.
How to detect my Iphone what screen it is, OLED or LCD?
It’s OLED. You can find the specs here, https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201296
When you find your phone, at the bottom of the description click on, See the tech specs…
mcr4u2 -
The included suction cups were stiff and worthless. They would not lift the screen. Also, I tried every type of tape on the screen to help the suction cups stick without success. Heavy duty suction cups were for my bathroom also failed. However, I had an old GoPro mount with some preapplied double sided 3M VSB tape and stuck that on the screen near the bottom. Magic! This method had the added bonus of being able to use a GoPro attachment as a handle to lift the screen, and propped up the screen like a kickstand in step 12.
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Benutze einen Fön oder eine Heißluftpistole oder bereite einen iOpener vor und erwärme damit etwa eine Minute lang die Unterkante des iPhones, um den Kleber darunter aufzuweichen.
An alternative to the Iopener or heat gun is to heat water to EXACTLY 80 degrees F (cooking thermometer is great for this) and pour into a reinforced ziplock type bag. Leave the bag on the screen, but be sure that none of the hot water rests on the zipper portion, as the water is hot enough to soften that seal and leak out on to your device! This meat had is my personal favorite as the heat is distributed very equally and precisely as compared to a heat gun, but is more accessible than the Iopener.
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Wenn der Tiefenmesser aus Kunststoff in der Mitte des iSclack angebracht ist, kannst du ihn jetzt entfernen. Bei größeren Smartphones wie dem iPhone XR wird er nicht gebraucht.
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Setze die Saugheber am unteren Rand des iPhones an, einen auf der Vorderseite, den anderen auf der Rückseite.
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Drücke beide Saugheber fest an.
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Halte das iPhone gut fest und drücke die Griffe des iSclack zusammen, so dass sich das Display ein wenig vom Rückgehäuse des Smartphones löst.
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Setze ein Plektrum in den Spalt unter das Display an der Unterkante des iPhones.
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Überspringe die nächsten beiden Schritte und mache bei Schritt 8 weiter.
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Ziehe fest und gleichmäßig am Saugheber und erzeuge dadurch einen kleinen Spalt zwischen Frontpanel und Rückgehäuse.
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Setze ein Plektrum in den Spalt ein.
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Schiebe das Plektrum um die untere linke Ecke und die linke Kante des iPhones nach oben, und durchtrenne so den Kleber, mit dem das Display befestigt ist.
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Schiebe das Plektrum um die obere Ecke des Displays und ziehe das Display gleichzeitig, eventuell mit einer leicht wackelnden Bewegung, nach unten in Richtung Lightning Anschluss.
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Schiebe das Plektrum zur gegenüberliegenden Ecke und durchtrenne den gesamten restlichen Kleber, mit dem das Display noch befestigt ist.
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Öffne das iPhone, indem du das Display von der linken Seite her hochklappst, wie einen Buchdeckel.
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Lehne das Display gegen einen Gegenstand, damit es abgestützt ist, während du daran arbeitest.
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Entferne die drei 1,2 mm Y000 Schrauben, mit denen die Abdeckung des Akkusteckers befestigt ist.
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Entferne die Halterung.
Definitely make sure all three lobes of your tool are aligned before use (it’s a little harder to tell with this style of bit) and apply even and adequate pressure to ensure it grabs as you spin the driver to prevent disfiguring the lobes/slot of the screw head.
Unfortunately my Y000 tool was perhaps not the best fit (tolerance a bit off) in these screws and I ended up stripping out the heads of all three of these. I started to panic but after I sanded the tip of my Y000 bit down a little with super fine grit (1000CW-C) sand paper to flatten the domed tip (visible with macro lens) and give it a bit more bite I was able to remove and reinstall without issue—in fact I had to remove and install them twice since I forgot my adhesive tape during reassembly, so the screws survived and the sanded bit worked.
+1 to above comment. I bought a cheap kit from Amazon and the Y000 screw driver is not good for this job. I’m concerned that I may have disfigured the heads and i type this comment in the midst of my fix :D Be gentle and assess if you can remove at least one screw with your driver before rummaging through all three and other similar screws holding display connector as well.
Update to above comment. I got hold of a Y0.8 screw driver bit (lucky to find an ORIA screw driver kit in my office) and it works like wonders :) Now back to work…
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Heble den Akkustecker mit der Spudgerspitze aus seinem Anschluss.
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Biege den Stecker leicht vom Logic Board weg, um zu vermeiden, dass er sich versehentlich wieder mit dem Anschluss verbindet und so dein iPhone während der Reparatur mit Strom versorgt.
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Entferne die beiden 1,2 mm Y000 Schrauben, mit denen die Halterung des Displaysteckers befestigt ist.
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Entferne die Halterung.
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Heble das Touchscreenkabel mit der Spudgerspitze hoch und löse es ab.
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Trenne den Stecker des Displaykabels mit der Spudgerspitze.
The new display cable isn’t snapping in but I was just able to snap in the old one. Did I break the new one somehow?
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Entferne die fünf Schrauben, mit denen die Halterung des Logic Board Steckers am Rückgehäuse befestigt ist:
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Eine 1,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube #000
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Eine 1,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube #000
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Drei 1,2 mm Y000 Schraube
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Entferne die Halterung.
I’m not sure it makes much if any difference, but we went ahead and swapped the order for you guys. Thanks for your comments!
I just repaired another XR, and you are right! It doesn’t make any differnerce in the order these screws come out. I still damaged this fragile piece. As I work on more of these, I’ll figure out a way to remove this screw without damaging the clip. For now everyone, just use extra caution when removing the 1.3mm phillips screw! Thanks Jeff
Is this piece important for the repair if broken? I have broken it on a home repair. What is it used for? Is it a grounding connection or is it completely unimportant. More information needed please
I’m wondering that too. Is this piece important?
I can confirm that taking out the 1.3 mm screw first then the 1.5 mm screw works the best. If done correctly, you should be able to to remove the rest of the screws and pull the panel off with the clip still attached to the panel. For reassembly, start with the 1.5 mm screw then the 1.3 mm screw.
I don’t remove the small screw at all. I just slide out the metal cover plate and slide back in to reassemble.
I too broke this shield. In looking over this problem I believe it’s best to loosen, but not remove, either screw first then the other. To be clear, loosen the red or yellow screw but only just to break it free, then the second screw. Then remove both and the others and the shield should remain in one piece. I put it back with the broken part (on the red screw) and made sure the two are in contact so there’s conductivity as these shields serve a purpose other than just holding in connectors. My phone works fine with this fix.
Is this small bracket important if broken??
Mine is broken
Mine is broken and my apple pay doesn’t work. Something to do with NFC antenna this little clip??
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Heble den Stecker der Frontsensorgruppe mit der Spudgerspitze aus seinem Anschluss.
During testing, make sure your proximity sensor is not on upside down, as it’s easy to connect upside down. Your phone will boot loop if it’s on incorrectly.
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Entferne die zwei Schrauben, mit der die Abdeckung der Rückkamera befestigt ist:
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Eine 1,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
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Eine 2,4 mm Abstandsschraube
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Entferne den SIM-Einschub mit Hilfe eines geeigneten Werkzeugs.
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Trenne die restlichen Anschlüsse ab.
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Fünf Anschlüsse sind in der Nähe der iSight-Kamera.
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Vier Anschlüsse sind in der Nähe des SIM-Einschubs.
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Entferne folgende Schrauben:
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Eine 2,9 mm Abstandsschraube
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Eine 1,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube #000
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Eine 1,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube #000
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Entferne die Erdungsklammer.
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Ziehe den SIM-Kartenleser heraus.
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Entferne folgende Schrauben
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Eine 2,9 mm Abstandsschraube
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Eine 2,8 mm Abstandsschraube
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Eine 1,8 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube #000
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Um das Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge diesen Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Um das Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge diesen Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
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15 Commenti
if I replace the logic board will it remove a iCloud lock??????
TL;DR: Yes, it should but…
All of the phone’s memory is stored on the NAND flash memory with is soldered to the logic board. Replacing the iCloud-locked logic board with a logic board from a phone that does not have an iCloud lock will technically remove the lock.
A terrible analogy would be like if you had had a tumor (iCloud lock) in your brain (MLB) so your surgeon (you, the technician) performed a brain transplant. Replacing the brain would indeed get rid of the tumor. However, your body (The phone’s housing) would just become the person of whose brain was transplanted into your body.
The only true way to remove an iCloud lock is to obtain the Apple ID & Apple ID password of the original owner.
You just have to try to find a good logic board and trust that the seller is legit. (Easier said than done)
This guide was more intended for those that are attempting micro-soldering repairs. However, you can use the guide for whatever you need. :-)
If i chanfe the logic board do i also have to swap the facial scan like the fingerprints on the prior iphone or all i gotta do is swap the boards
Great question! From what I’ve experienced, the Face ID hardware is similar to touch ID hardware in that it is tied to the phone’s logic board. However, FaceID does seem a little more forgiving. The phone I’m currently using is an iPhone X that was severely damaged. I bought it off a customer and installed a new screen but Face ID did not work. A couple months later, I was using an app that made use of face ID hardware for facial recognition and mapping. I thought it wouldn’t work since FaceID wasn’t working on my phone. To my surprise, it worked just fine. I then tried setting up FaceID and it was able to activate and capture my face.
If you’re looking to refurbish a phone, assume FaceId won’t work without the original hardware. However, your milage may vary.
Does the camera work even the face I'd doesn't work ?
From what I’ve seen, yes it does. However, your milage may vary. Make sure you check to see if your cameras are good before you replacing/repairing the logic board. I’ve already had an iPhone XS where the cameras and flashlight stopped working. Replacing the iSight camera seemed to do the trick.
Hello.. I have a question,
I have been done replace the logicboard, when I test camera with potrait mode front camera doesn’t working properly, the picture is very dark and when I move my body or face the my picture in camera it’s very slow and lagy. It’s is normal issue sir if we swap the logicboard ???
And I found one issue again with the battery it show “Important Battery Message” and unable to verify, the battery health show service.
How to solve this issue sir? Many Thanks Before
Article regarding the battery: https://www.ifixit.com/News/apple-is-loc...
Have you tried reinstalling iOS? Be sure to backup your data first, as you will probably have to erase the phone. Let me know if that helps.
What could be the issue on my XR the restarts randomly… It takes several attempts to boot normally. But when I opened any app, the phone shuts down again. There are panic-full logs in the data analytics logs. Factory reset, IOS restoration and DFU did not help. Any idea? TIA
Unfortunately, it would be a shorter list if I told you what was unlikely to cause the iPhone XR to randomly reboot. Hopefully you have a computer or iCloud backup of the phone because I would suggest getting a different phone or talking to Apple. If data is needed, talk to a data recovery specialist like iPad Rehab. (Don’t expect Apple to even attempt to save your data).
Hello, thanks for this helpful guide! Where can I get a replacement logic board?
I’m glad you found the guide helpful! There’s no magic shop to order a replacement logic board. If you can’t find one pre-vetted from a site like iFixit, you’ll have to try your luck with a resale site like eBay. I wish Apple was more open to repair and sold parts direct to consumers and shops. Then again, I also wish I had a pile of gold lol.
The different types of screws are denoted by color for each step. The size in millimeters give you the length of the screw measured by a digital caliper. Screw type is distinguished by the head of the screw. (Phillips #000)
@ipoint The guide was made to show how to remove the logic board, in which is accomplishes. It was mainly intended as a reference for anyone wanting to fix the board itself via micro soldering. Feel free to use this guide to make your own guide on swapping FaceID hardware. It seems like you could use the reputation points anyways.
One of my gaskets was as shown in your second photo, the other had been worked into the threads (as if smeared) probably from the factory and was completely unusable.
In place of replacements (unsure of where to purchase) I just used a clear silicone caulking on both screws upon reassembly to offer at least some water seal. I wish these gaskets were included with the gasket waterproofing sealant kit!
Erica - Replica