Introduzione

Follow the steps in this guide to replace the Home Button Assembly, including the gasket and cable, in your iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi. Note that home buttons are paired with their respective logic board, so Touch ID will no longer work after you replace the Home Button Assembly.

  1. We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.
    • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

    • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

      • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - Replica

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Replica

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Replica

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Replica

    Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

    Fletcher Carpenter - Replica

    I wonder how many people actually wrapped in their iPhone into iOpener and put this "sandwich" into microwave??

    putinaspiliponis - Replica

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Replica

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Replica

    I've been with Samsung for 8 years now!! Never did i have a case on any of my phones My Samsung 8 is 2 months old the case protector around the edge pop off and broke my phone it's like someone put a bullet hole in it

    Sherry Carew - Replica

    Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.

    Esmond Pitt - Replica

    Hi, the microware have multiple power 1 to 9, what must be used ?

    Regards,

    Cedric

    Cedric VINCENT - Replica

  2. Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
    • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

    • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

    • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

    • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

    May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

    yamayhuang - Replica

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Replica

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Replica

    I don't own a microwave.

    mdanihy - Replica

    Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

    Jon - Replica

    I don't have a microwave???

    Joe Blow - Replica

    30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

    Sam Stieg - Replica

    can i use just ordinary microwave???

    juneseok kwon - Replica

    If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

    Mohideen Rifay - Replica

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Replica

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Replica

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Replica

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Replica

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Replica

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - Replica

    • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

    • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

    Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

    Me berg - Replica

    Yes, as does a heat gun.

    anonymous 4602 - Replica

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Replica

    • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.

      • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

    Why does it says in red letter to be sure not to damage the LCD screen? I thought the whole point of this guide is to replace a broken screen and the new screen comes with a new LCD since apparently they cannot be separated

    Stranger Danger - Replica

    • The following steps involve using an iOpener to soften the adhesive holding the front panel assembly in place. When using the iOpener, be sure to heat it in the microwave for no more than 30 seconds.

    • Handling it by the tabs on either end, place a heated iOpener over the top edge of the iPad.

    • Let the iOpener sit on the iPad for two minutes to soften the adhesive securing the front panel to the rest of the iPad.

    Yeah, this part took longer than written. Over 30 minutes and had to reheat the iOpenner since it got cool enough to only feel warm.

    Christopher Lowder - Replica

    So true, the adhesive is really strong.

    Benjamin Black -

    • While the iPad looks uniform from the outside, there are delicate components under certain portions of the front glass. To avoid damage, only heat and pry in the areas described in each step.

    • As you follow the directions, take special care to avoid prying in the following areas:

      • Home Button

      • Front Facing Camera

      • Main Camera

    you should be careful with the screen connector on the bottom right when opening

    Elyazee Eble Altenawe - Replica

    • Place a suction cup over the iPad's front-facing camera and press down to create a seal.

      • To get the most leverage, place the suction cup as close to the edge as possible without going past the edge of the display.

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    • Firmly pull up on the suction cup to to create a small gap between the front panel and the rear case.

      • Do not pull too hard or you may shatter the glass.

    • Once you've opened a sufficient gap, insert an opening pick into the gap to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

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    • Slide the pick along the edge of the display, towards the headphone jack.

      • If there is still a considerable amount of resistance when sliding the opening pick, repeat the iOpener heating procedure and apply additional heat.

    • Be careful not to let the opening pick slide between the fused LCD and front panel, as doing so can permanently damage the display.

      • A good rule of thumb is to never insert the opening pick more than a quarter inch (6 mm) into the iPad.

    I think I accidently slid my tool into the fused lcd and front panel and now the entire screen is doing weird lines and different colors and just is not natural its not even usable. I was gonna replace the battery because the batter was popping the entire front panel and lcd off of the base of the device and then when i was openingit up the rest of the way I slipped and it hit something and now its all glitchy. what should i do?? is it even worth fixing anymore? it;s too old for apple care and I already voided the warranty and displays are expensive what should I do? email me @ andrew.heidorn1@gmail.com thanks :)

    Andrew Heidorn - Replica

    “a quarter of an inch” might be OK for the US/UK… what about pretty much the rest of the world using the metric system? When giving measurements, please always include them also in mm/cm

    Denis Hay - Replica

    A quick google search will give you the answer

    Stranger Danger -

    • Insert a second opening pick by the front-facing camera.

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    • Slide the second pick along the top edge of the iPad, towards the Sleep/Wake Button.

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    • Insert a third pick by the front-facing camera.

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    • Bring the right opening pick down and around the top right corner of the iPad.

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    • Bring the left opening pick around the top left corner of the tablet.

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    • Reheat the iOpener and lay it over the right edge of the display to loosen the adhesive underneath.

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    • Slide the right opening pick roughly halfway down the display.

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    • Reheat the iOpener and apply heat to the left side of the iPad.

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    • Slide the left-hand opening pick about halfway down the edge of the display.

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    • Slide the opposite opening pick down to the bottom right corner of the iPad.

    • If necessary, reheat the adhesive on the right edge to loosen the display assembly.

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    • Slide the left-hand opening pick down the edge of the display until you reach the corner.

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    • Use the iOpener to apply heat to the bottom edge of the iPad.

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    • Bring the right-hand opening pick around the bottom corner of the iPad.

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    • Repeat for the left-hand pick.

    • Reheat and reapply the iOpener as needed. Always wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

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    • Remove the right-hand opening pick at the bottom of the iPad.

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    • Slide the left-hand opening pick along the bottom edge of the display, then remove it from the bottom right corner of the iPad.

    • Be very careful to not insert the pick more than a quarter inch (6 mm) into the display to avoid damaging the Home Button and display cables underneath.

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    • Twist the remaining pick by the front-facing camera to separate the top edge of the display assembly from the rear case.

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    • Continue lifting the display assembly from the front-facing camera side.

    • Pull the display slightly away from the bottom edge to completely separate it from the rear case.

    • Keep lifting until the display assembly is roughly perpendicular to the body of the iPad.

      • Do not attempt to remove the display yet—it is still attached to the rear case by three delicate ribbon cables.

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    • Remove the single 1.8 mm Phillips screw securing the battery terminals to their contacts on the logic board.

    Be very careful when replacing the screws not to lose them. They are micro small. I would even think about ordering a couple extra of each size just in case.

    David Christoff - Replica

    • To reduce the risk of a short, you can use a battery isolation pick to disconnect the battery.

      • Slide a battery isolation pick underneath the battery connector area of the logic board, and leave it in place while you work.

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    • Remove the three 1.3mm Phillips screws from the display cable bracket.

    • Remove the bracket.

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    • Disconnect the display data connector from its socket on the logic board.

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    • Disconnect the two remaining digitizer cables underneath the display data cable.

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    • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

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    • Lay the display assembly facedown.

    • Use a plastic opening tool to pry the bracket off the back of the Home Button.

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    • Remove the Home Button bracket and peel up the tape connected to it.

    • During reassembly, after installing the home button, you'll need to glue this bracket into place to secure it

      • Scrape off as much of the old adhesive residue from the bracket as you can, then clean it with acetone or high-concentration (90% or greater) isopropyl alcohol.

      • Secure the bracket with hot-melt glue, superglue, or high-strength double-sided tape. Make sure the bracket is aligned correctly before allowing your adhesive to cure, or the home button will not click when pressed.

    attention à cette étape de ne pas décoller en même temps la gappe du bouton. Celui ci peux etre tordu et difficile à remettre.

    jipilabont - Replica

    • Peel up the tape covering the Home Button ZIF connector.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the Home Button cable socket.

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    • Disconnect the Home Button ribbon cable.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to peel up the Home Button ribbon cable and Touch ID control chip.

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    • Peel up the remaining corner of the Home Button ribbon cable.

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    • Reheat your iOpener and lay it over the bottom edge of the display to loosen the adhesive on the Home Button gasket.

      • Wait about two minutes for the adhesive to soften before moving on to the next step.

    Most screens don’t come with the home button adhesive so during reassembly the residue from the home button gasket is enough but the bracket needs new glue.

    Thaddeus Lee - Replica

    • In the following steps, you will be separating the home button gasket from the iPad's front panel. This gasket is extremely delicate and can tear easily. If the gasket does not separate easily from the front panel, reapply heat using the iOpener before continuing.

    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to gently pry the Home Button assembly up from the display.

    Another option… heat it up a bit and then apply gentle pressure from the front of the button. Start with one “corner” and work your way around.

    Mine came out like very smoothly with this process.

    Good luck!

    John Monahan - Replica

    • Continue working the tip of the spudger around the edge of the gasket until the gasket is fully separated from the front panel.

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    • Remove the home button assembly.

      • If you are replacing your LCD assembly, some assemblies have a slightly different home button connector placement that will require you to fold over the home button cable in a "S" shape like shown in the picture.

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Conclusione

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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There is a small black plastic ring between the back of the glass and the home button gasket that no one seems to be mentioning. Do you see it? It does not appear on any of the photos. What's up with that?

Tim - Replica

Its the washer, better to transfer to new screen if the screen does not come with the washer. Without the washer the home button will work fine, just feel weird. Good luck

hatrongminh -

Changing the home button, the touch ID stills working? Or we lose this function?

Jose - Replica

As I understand it, the touch ID chip on the home button ribbon cable is paired to the logic board at the factory. Unless you put the same home button assembly back, you will lose the touch ID when a replacement home button assembly is installed. The home button will work but without touch ID

James Sturgeon - Replica

I confirm it. I had personally checked it on iPhones and now on iPads. Thanks for the answer ;)

Jose - Replica

I just received iFixit LCD/digitizer/glass replacement assembly for iPad Air 2 (A1566) and see the distance between the IC’s on either side of the home button ribbon cable is narrower than on the original LCD! There is no room for the Touch ID chip since the distance from the Ziff connector (where the home button ribbon cable attaches) to the IC next to where the Touch ID chip goes is narrower by about 8mm!

Is there a new version of the home button with a shorter ribbon cable or is this a mistake in the replacement screens? To re-use the original home button you would have to fold its ribbon cable or put the Touch chip up on the IC so it would probably not allow the screen assembly to seat properly.

Has anyone else had this problem?

James Sturgeon - Replica

James, I am having the same problem. I think the iFixit stock is goofy in this regard. Not good.

William Setterberg -

Anyone have a fix for this? I am having a similar problem and can't get the home button to work

Joseph Graham -

Same issue. Their solution is to put an “s” curve on the ribbon. Mine has a stiff piece on it and I’m afraid I’ll tear it if I remove it. Very frustrating and very little help

Jack -

If the Home Button and Touch ID for an iPad Air 2 are not working.

What Part number would you recommend so I can replace them both and have the functionality of Home Button and Touch ID?

Please give me your recommendation.

Thank you, EA

eafg66 - Replica

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