Introduzione
Use this guide to replace the front glass and digitizer assembly on an iPad 5 LTE.
Note that since the Touch ID sensor in the home button is paired to the logic board, this guide includes instructions for removing the home button. In order to retain Touch ID functionality, you need to transfer the original home button to the new front panel assembly.
Strumenti
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Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.
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Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
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Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.
May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.
DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.
can i use just ordinary microwave???
If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?
I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.
There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(
If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own
I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.
30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.
60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.
I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.
K
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Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
Yes, as does a heat gun.
I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.
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If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
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Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
If you add clear packaging tape, it will create bubbles and the suction cup will become inefficient. To me it was impossible to remove the glass with the suction cup. Since the glass was very cracked, I had to resort to some tweaking with strong tape and pull the this off.
If your screen is significantly cracked to the left edge, abandon this entire setup, prepare yourself for a 5-6 hour repair, expect a lot of patience, a lot of cursing and some good old American ingenuity. The suction cup and picks will not work. You have to carefully crack the glass yourself (w/out damaging the panel underneath and carefully pull it apart from the inside to the outside edges. Use a hairdryer to soften the glue under the cracked panel along the edges. Then use an exacto-knife to separate the pieces of the glued panel from the frame body, all the way around the device. Watch out for the home button ribbon connector when using the exacto-knife. There will be glue residue left over, carefully apply some goo-gone to a small area of a paper towel and wipe gently around the frame body to loosen the glue. Then use the plastic spudger tool to scrape off the excess glue.
The iPad repair is VERY difficult. If you are a working adult, hire a pro. This is not for the faint of heart.
The hairdryer option was way faster and easier than the iOpener. Be VERY careful not to damage the LCD- one small mistake will cost you an extra $100!
If your digitizer is shattered, the tape will help, but you’re going to need extra picks. Or a razor blade. See below.
Friendly observation that the image on this step is actually of an older ipad model as the side bezels are far too big. I don't know if that matters to anybody but a noob might see it and think this manual doesn't apply to them. : )
I had the same experience. My glass was cracked all the way to the left side and the suction cup would not pull the glass up. The packaging tape also didn't help. The heat caused it to lift. I finally abandoned the tape, used a heat gun aimed very carefully at each broken piece of the screen. The picks did work with patience, but I just pulled off each broken part of the glass. I also found that pulling up on one broken part while heating in front of me would let the next piece pull up. I continued heating and breaking all the way around. Do the right side last. Took about 1 hour to get it off, and another hour to clean the old glue off the frame. BTW thanks to this web site and all the comments! No way I would have done this without all the help here! I am now clean and waiting for my new digitizer. I couldn't free the battery (below), so I left it powered up, and verified it till worked before throwing away the old glass. Vince
Taping with package tape doesn't work. You'll need a very large piece of tape if you go this route.
Just finished successful repair. I would add this: most folks will be here because of cracked screen. This is not easy; believe the 'complex' rating on this repair. I put tape on my screen because it was badly cracked. This made the suction cup useless, because it just sucked the tape off the scree.n. I used the razor blade technique which worked great, it should be used in the demo, and a good blade should be in the kit.
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Handling it by the tag, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.
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Let the iOpener sit for at least a minute to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.
The iOpener doesn't work because the heat isn't strong enough. I used a hair dryer which proved to be much more efficient.
“At least a minute.” Bullshit. Get the iOpener good and hot, place it on the area you’re going to work on clear side down, and cover it with a towel. Walk away for 2 minutes. Make yourself a drink — you’ll need steady hands later.
I've done this with an iOpener and at least in my case, it worked fine. You may have to modify the heating instructions though, since not all microwaves are created equal.
ii i just did this and it took a while but i figured it out it is true this thing doesnt get hot enough BUT heat it 2 times and then the 3rd time when u place it on the ipad put the ipad box on top and then maybe a second ipad on top of the box so it kinda smashes i down but not too much for it to break and then wait for it to turn warm THEN use the succion THEN the gap appears. the glue is super strong on the ipads so yea it will take some time lol
Doesn't work. Perhaps include more copy on exactly how to do it?
The iOpener does not work. It simply it is not hard enough to soften the glue. The heat hair dryer method does not work either.
The goal is simply to weaken the glue enough that you can use your suction cup to open up a tiny gap under the glass, so you can insert an opening pick and slice through the adhesive. It doesn't actually take all that much heat; the picks will do most of the work once you get them in there. iOpeners, hair dryers, heat guns all work fine in my experience—the iOpener is just a bit more foolproof because it won't get hot enough to cook the display panel underneath.
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As you follow the directions, take special care to avoid prying in the following areas:
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Front-facing camera
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Antennas
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Display cables
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Don't assume anything!! I thought I was pulling on the screen connector and I was pulling on an antenna component instead. Didn't ruin its connection range but I sure remember doing it and now my iPad has a little internal flaw only I'm aware of.
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Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side.
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Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal.
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While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case.
In this picture above, the glass isn't cracked at all so it helps the suction cup to be effective as it is hermetic. With cracked display, it won't work.
Suction cup would not work for me. No amount of heating with iOpener or hair dryer would allow even the slightest gap to form. I ended up looking at some YouTube videos and used a razor blade. I put the razor blade perpendicular to the top glass, right at the edge of the glass and pushed down until the blade went down 1/4". Then heated some more and pried up the glass enough to put in an opening pick. I spent a lot of time working with the suction cup. Glue was just too strong.
It's funny that iFixit changed the image they used. Even they themselves realized how stupid it was to try a suction cup on taped up surface. C'mon guys! You should at least make foot notes for your readers and let them know what to do if the glass is already shattered. It's a slow methodical process that involves working with a iOpener type tool. I personally have one that looks like a prison shank (lol)
Not sure what you are referring to there—I see no evidence in the document history of the photos having been changed. Suction cup + packing tape can work, but it depends how badly the glass is broken and the quality of the tape. Sometimes it takes a couple attempts. You can also skip the suction cup and try using tape alone to pull on the panel, if your tape is sticky enough. There are no guarantees though, which is why we have the disclaimer right in Step 4 that the procedure can be pretty fussy if you're working with a shattered panel. Depending on where it's broken and how badly, you're going to have to improvise.
Jeff, the change is evident from image 4, where all the surface is taped up. In this picture you show a clean not broken surface and yes, the suction cup works...
Ah, I see what you're saying! I can understand why you guys would assume that, but in reality the entire guide was originally photographed using an intact panel. We later added a step showing how to protect yourself if you have a shattered panel (with photos to go along with, obviously). I'm afraid it wouldn't be practical to re-shoot the entire guide every time we make a small change like that.
The suction cup is useless if your glass is shattered. Use a new, sharp razor blade, and insert it vertically between the edge of the glass and the metal back of the iPad. Don’t worry about pressing too hard — there’s a lip that stops the blade from going in too far and damaging anything. You’ll probably have to do this several times, but eventually the blade will “bite” into the edge of the glass well enough for you to pry it up. Insert a pick underneath the razor, then remove the razor and continue as directed.
After having to read several comments on this screen removal and the clear packing tape, I too have to agree that the tape method does not work well at all if your screen is already shattered. I combined several methods, with lots of patience to remove the screen on my iPad Air 2. What I found it very helpful was the heat gun used for paint removal. The heat gun generates a lot of concentrated heat at lower air velocity, unlike generic hair dryer, so you must be very careful not to ruin the electronics, and risk burning your hands and anything around it. My heat gun that I purchased from Home Depot had a nozzle to direct and focus the heat on a small area. That was helpful in working small area at a time. This method work thoroughly well.
It would work if you leave iopener in microwave for 1 minute.
Don’t trust the instruction from ifixit.
you can put iopener in microwave for 1 minute without any harm.
Note. you have to make sure that it is in cold position before you put it into microwave.
Suction cup didn’t work for me either, went the razor blade route (using an exacto knife blade) with very minimal damage to the aluminum shell. Be warned, if your screen has cracked along the edge (as it almost 100% certainly has if you’re reading this guide), the screen will continue to shatter and splinter as you make your way around the edge. That’s when having the screen taped up well will be to your advantage. There’s also a good chance you’ll have to re-insert the razor blade on the other side of a fracture and start the lifting process again, but keep going, being sure to avoid the points called out in this guide and you should be fine.
Also, do not apply the suction cup to an area of the screen with cracks and no tape. If you’re near the edge you run the risk of brutally shattering that area of the glass if the glass gives before the suction cup.
In order to get this to work for me I had to heat the IOpener to over 104 C - I needed to get the screen over 40 C before the adhesive would loosen.
Also I had to put the ipad on a towel - the granite countertop it was on was sucking the heat out too fast.
This step was brutal on my nerves - read about too many people ruining their iOpener and I don’t have a heat gun. I had to keep heating the iOpener incrementally hoping I wouldn’t pop it. … but if you’re patient, persistent, and cautious, you can definitely tell when you’re seeing separation. The iOpener ended up being WAY hotter than 30 seconds was getting me - borderline scorching my hands.
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Place an opening pick in the gap opened by the suction cup.
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Pull the suction cup's plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.
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Reheat and replace the iOpener.
This says "Always wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener", however the iOpener itself has a warning printed upon it that says wait at least 10 minutes. And that 10 minutes warning is also mentioned in Step 2 above.
Sorry about that! We fixed the text on this step. The two-minute interval was for an older version of the iOpener—the text printed on your iOpener will have the correct interval, which is indeed ten minutes. It can burst if overheated or reheated too quickly.
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Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
You guys really need to show how it's done when your iPad isn't perfect like the one pictured above.. C'mon..
This is for BATTERY REPLACEMENT not CRACKED SCREEN REPLACEMENT!!
How do you slide the picks when the glass is broken? Even with the glass taped, it pulls away from the tape rather than the housing. I've just further shattered the glass with my attempts.
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Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive.
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If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.
This gives a false illusion to the difficulty of these repairs when you guys make guides using perfect devices. What about devices with dinged corners? A reader is gonna slap on a new screen and shatter it the second they apply pressure thinking it will fit into a dented corner lol
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Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.
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If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out just a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.
I managed to get a couple of fingerprints on the LCD.
What's the best way to clean 'em off?
What's the safest way?
What I’ve read, and seems to work, is gentle circular pressure with a very clean, dry microfiber cloth. Lacking that, use a TINY drop of water ON THE CLOTH, not on the LCD. Small amounts of alcohol can be used, in my experience, but only if the above don’t work, and with better results if used in small amounts and applied to the cloth, not the LCD.
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Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.
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Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.
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Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera.
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Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge.
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Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera.
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Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, and then slide it to the corner of the iPad to finish cutting the adhesive on that edge.
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Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.
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Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.
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Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.
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Slide the opening pick around the top right corner of the iPad, releasing the adhesive there.
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Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
Why there’s such an obsession with not damaging the cables is beyond me. Be careful, so as not to damage what the cables are connected to. But the cables are part of the replacement digitizer, so if you nick or even slice through them (like I did with the one closest to the bottom) don’t worry about it.
Keep in mind that some people are here to open an intact display to replace internal components! In those cases, keeping the cables un-harmed is quite important ;)
My digitizer WAS ok and I was only replacing the battery I wasn't careful enough when coming around the side with the pics and got a hold of the cable just enough with the pic to pull it off the underside of the panel. The battery replacement went great other than now I have to replace the digitizer. :(
BE CAREFUL WITH THIS STEP!!!
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Leave the opening picks in place, and set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad.
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Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner.
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Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad.
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With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button.
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Leave the pick in place before moving on.
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Take a new pick and slip it in to the right of the previous pick.
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Slide across the home button and right-hand antenna using only the very tip to remove the adhesive.
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With the adhesive loosened, you can now insert the pick near the right-hand corner.
I think you’re missing a step here where you explicitly direct the reader to slide the pick from the bottom right corner towards the home button.
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Reheat and reapply the iOpener to the volume control side of the iPad.
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On the side of the iPad opposite the volume controls, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along the display cable edge.
You will end up having to scrape the outter ledge to remove the old screen. I bled and got glass shards everywhere. Good luck!
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Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the display cable edge.
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While supporting the front panel glass, use an opening pick to cut the last of the adhesive.
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Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the front glass like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace.
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Remove any tape obscuring the LCD screws.
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Remove the four Phillips screws securing the LCD:
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Three 4.0 mm screws
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One 4.8 mm screw
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD out of its recess just enough to grab it with your fingers.
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Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the rear case.
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Lay the LCD on its face to allow access to the display cables.
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Remove the single 2.3 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.
The could recommend me since I did not put the wedge first in the connection of the battery and it heated the logic card a couple of minutes, q´l recommend to solve it since it does not turn on
The battery isolation pick didn’t come with my kit. I made my own using one of the regular picks and a pair of scissors.
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Remove the three 1.4 mm Phillips screws securing the display cable bracket.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the display cable bracket straight up from the logic board.
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Remove the LCD.
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Remove any tape covering the home button ribbon cable connector.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to flip the tab on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector upward.
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Carefully pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector.
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Use the flat end of a spudger or a fingernail to carefully pop the two digitizer cable connectors straight up from their sockets.
When reversing with the new screen , this was the hardest part for me.
The cables needs to fit under the LCD screen, and they kept going out of place when I tried to close the screen in the end.
That meant that I had to remove the LCD again with one hand while holding the digitizer/glass with the other - all while I had already exposed the adhesives.
for me the cables of the new screen were longer that the old one. So even if i put everithing under the lcd, the digitizer didnt close properly. After everything was put back togheter, this side of the digitizer keep popping out.
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Remove the front panel assembly.
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If you experience "ghost" or "phantom" touch input issues with your new display, this can be resolved by adding a layer of very thin insulating tape, such as Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the highlighted areas on the back of the panel. iFixit panels come with the proper insulation, and should not require the addition of any tape.
After removing the glass, I'd suggest scraping off any remaining black adhesive off of the iPad's frame. Get every speck. This may be time consuming if you have lost glass integrity and have sticky, splintered shards around the edge of the frame, but you need the frame completely clean of adhesive before you put the new front panel down or else it won't lay correctly in the frame.
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Gently begin peeling the home button cable off the back of the front panel.
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Continue peeling until you reach the metal shield on the cable.
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Insert an opening pick between the metal shield and the front panel and gently pry it from the digitizer.
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Gently peel the metal contact from the home button bracket.
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Use a plastic opening tool to pry the home button bracket off the back of the front panel.
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Once you've separated one side of the home button bracket, firmly grasp the bracket and peel it off the front panel.
I'd recommend using something stronger than double sided tape. I completed this whole repair without too much lasting trouble, but the biggest issue was I didn’t get the home bracket secured firmly enough. A few weeks after the repair, the home button got pressed in and lodged under the hole cut for it, so I can’t unlock my iPad at all (the home button can’t be “pressed” in its current state). So I’m ordering a second screen and have to go through everything again. This time I’m using super glue to get that thing welded on there. If anything breaks in the future, I’m just getting a new iPad.
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Press the home button from the external side of the digitizer to break up the adhesive holding it in place.
Are these last several steps necessary in just replacing the front glass panel that is cracked? my ipad is a wi-fi only
Yes, even if you’re only replacing the front glass panel, you still have to transfer your original home button from the old panel to the replacement. Even if the new panel comes with a new home button, Touch ID will only work with the original home button.
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Remove the home button assembly.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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which temperature must be used for heating? Thx
fbarletta - Replica
I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.
By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.
Fredrik -
I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.
windizy - Replica
I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.
Martin Gray - Replica
I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier
Jan Van Puymbroeck - Replica
Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.
Fletcher Carpenter - Replica
I wonder how many people actually wrapped in their iPhone into iOpener and put this "sandwich" into microwave??
putinaspiliponis - Replica
I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.
Laurie Higgins - Replica
Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.
Yousef Ghalib - Replica
I've been with Samsung for 8 years now!! Never did i have a case on any of my phones My Samsung 8 is 2 months old the case protector around the edge pop off and broke my phone it's like someone put a bullet hole in it
Sherry Carew - Replica
Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.
Esmond Pitt - Replica
Hi, the microware have multiple power 1 to 9, what must be used ?
Regards,
Cedric
Cedric VINCENT - Replica