Introduzione
Use this guide to replace the front glass and digitizer assembly on an iPad 5 LTE.
Note that since the Touch ID sensor in the home button is paired to the logic board, this guide includes instructions for removing the home button. In order to retain Touch ID functionality, you need to transfer the original home button to the new front panel assembly.
Parts of this guide were shot with a Wi-Fi model and as such the internals may look slightly different from the LTE model. The procedure is the same for both models except where noted.
Warning: the battery isolation method in this guide is outdated, and may result in irreversible damage to the battery pins of the logic board, effectively destroying it. If you choose to isolate the battery this way, heed all warnings and work extremely carefully. If you choose to complete the guide without isolating the battery, avoid using metal tools except when completely necessary (like when removing screws) to prevent shorting the battery and damaging sensitive circuit components.
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Fill a pot or pan with enough water to fully submerge an iOpener.
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Heat the water to a boil. Turn off the heat.
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Place an iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure the iOpener is fully submerged in the water.
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Use tongs to extract the heated iOpener from the hot water.
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Thoroughly dry the iOpener with a towel.
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Your iOpener is ready for use! If you need to reheat the iOpener, heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and place the iOpener in the water for 2-3 minutes.
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If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
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Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
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Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.
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If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out just a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.
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Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner.
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Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad.
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The following steps will direct you where to pry to avoid damage to these components. Only apply heat and pry where directed.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD out of its recess just enough to grab it with your fingers.
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Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the rear case.
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Lay the LCD on its face to allow access to the display cables.
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Remove any tape covering the home button ribbon cable connector.
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Remove the front panel assembly.
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If you experience "ghost" or "phantom" touch input issues with your new display, this can be resolved by adding a layer of very thin insulating tape, such as Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the highlighted areas on the back of the panel. iFixit panels come with the proper insulation, and should not require the addition of any tape.
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Gently begin peeling the home button cable off the back of the front panel.
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Continue peeling until you reach the metal shield on the cable.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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4 Commenti
I was able to complete this repair although the screen on the iPad that I was trying to repair was completely shattered and I ended up having to just take it out in chunks. A little more detail about best practices in that situation would be good. I also am having some issues with the home button not being quiet right after the repair and now that I am seeing that I would have purchased a replacement for the adhesive holder piece when I got the screen. It is working fine for now and I plan to just be careful with it so I don’t have to pull the display again and risk messing up the screen adhesive and having to order another set of that again too.
It didn´t work for me. I did this repair 2 times.
At the first try, the front glass was not totaly fixed, so I I used 10 strong clamps to get a better connection, but the glass was not really fixed and broke again with a new one.
So I tried twice. I cleaned everything very well, waited half an hour before I put the glass on the ipad. I put it on a flat surface on top with some haevy gear for 24 hours. After only some days the glass lost connection at the right down side where the cables are. So the display got a crack again.
I asked ifixit to fix this.
They told me: This is my fault.
Most likely you did not route the display cables down into between the housing and the lcd this is tricky if done right and the chassie is not bent and no debre is left the screen should adhear no problem. I have done many of these with no issues.
