Introduzione
The Motorola Moto G6 features a USB type C charging port. The charging port allows the battery to recharge through an external power source. If the charging port is damaged, it may lead to a damaged battery, or a nonchargeable device. This will require a charging port replacement.
This guide teaches how to perform a charging port replacement. No repair experience is required. However, this replacement will require tools to pry the back shell open, unscrew plates within the device, remove interior pieces, and solder inside of the device. The specific device model in this guide is XT1925-12. Other model numbers include: XT1925-4, XT1925-5, XT1925-6, and XT1925DL.
Before you begin, download the Rescue and Smart Assistant app to backup your device and diagnose whether your problem is software or hardware related.
Before beginning the repair, make sure the device is turned off and disconnected from an external power source. Gather the suggested tools listed below and a new Motorola Moto G6 charging port.
Cosa ti serve
-
-
If possible, drain the battery before disassembly. When the battery is charged, there's an increased risk of a dangerous thermal event if the battery is overheated or damaged during repairs.
-
Prepare an iOpener and heat the back of the phone along its bottom edge for about two minutes, or until it's slightly too hot to touch. This will help soften the adhesive securing the rear glass.
-
-
-
Apply a suction cup to the bottom edge of the rear glass.
-
Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the rear glass and the frame.
-
If you have trouble, apply more heat to further soften the adhesive, and try again. The adhesive cools quickly, so you may need to heat it repeatedly.
-
Insert an opening pick into the gap you created under the rear glass.
My back delaminated at this point. That is, the clear plastic started to come away leaving the paint layer behind. Mine is (was) the indigo blue one.
-
-
-
-
If the glass remains stuck, re-heat and slice the adhesive repeatedly as needed.
-
Lift the rear glass carefully, making sure it's fully separated from any adhesive.
-
Remove the rear glass.
When cleaning old adhesive off the back glass, be careful not to scratch the inner coating of the glass. If you scratch this coating with tweezers, it will leave visible “nicks” on the back glass.
-
-
-
Use a pair of tweezers to carefully peel up the black tape covering the battery.
-
Remove the tape.
Yes, there's the NFC tag that isn't mentioned, with its connection to the left. Thanks for the tip, Stuart; I gently lifted mine to the left and it seems to be intact. I guess I won't know until I try to pay for something.
-
-
-
Use a Phillips driver to remove seventeen screws securing the plastic cover:
-
Eleven grey 3 mm-long screws
-
Five black 2.5 mm-long screws
-
One silver 3.5 mm-long screw
The holes for the black screws are marked with a small triangle to differentiate them from the holes for the gray ones. I found this super helpful when reassembling!
-
-
-
Insert the pointed end of a spudger into the notch at the top left edge of the plastic cover.
-
Pry up with the spudger to lift the upper edge of the cover and release the clips holding the cover down.
-
Remove the plastic cover.
When reinstalling plastic cover, alignment is critical for underlying contacts to line up. Test all functions before sealing up the phone. If camera or speaker don’t work, recheck plastic cover installation and correct until all phone functions operate.
-
-
-
Using the iFixit opening tool, pop up the three press-fit connectors in the bottom right corner of the motherboard.
-
-
-
Use the opening tool to disconnect the press-fit connection on the top left of the motherboard, similar to the previous step.
-
Use either your fingernail or tweezers to pull the orange boxed connector out. Unlike the other connections, this one is pulled down and not up from the device.
-
-
-
Remove the motherboard out of place.
-
-
-
Take off the black rubber cover around the charging port with a pair of tweezers.
-
-
-
Carefully desolder the four pins which physically hold the port in place.
-
Carefully de-solder the electrical pins which connect the port to the circuit board.
This is where the difficult rating comes in. Could use a picture from the other side of the port showing the small electrical pins. After all the work to get to this point, this is the easiest step to fail on and ruin the phone. The soldering guide does not cover this size, even under advanced. A proper soldering station heat gun seems the way to go.
I have been told that Motorola Moto G⁶ XT1925-6 charging board is bad, because even with new battery of 46% charge, it doesn't booth the fully before shutting down. When you plug in charge, it display that the phone will charge after cooling down then it would turn off. For a phone which is turned off for days! I have been to AliExpress to order for another charging board, but the pictures I am seeing are different from the one in my phone, which looks exactly like this one, that is, the continuation from motherboard to charging board. Please what should I do?
-
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Annulla: non ho completato questa guida.
Altre 6 persone hanno completato questa guida.
Team
Cal Poly, Team S11-G1, Regan Fall 2019 Membro di Cal Poly, Team S11-G1, Regan Fall 2019
CPSU-REGAN-F19S11G1
4 Membri
14 Guide realizzate
8 Commenti
Thanks for the guide, but where can I buy a replacement charging port? I thought the Motorola replacement parts would be available here but I can‘t find it?
Hi! We are currently still in the process of adding Motorola parts into our inventory. Please check back soon!
Awesome guide! I really need to make this repair, is there anyone who knows where I can find a replacement port?
You can find them on eBay.
Any news on replacement charging ports for this phone? It looks like they are still not available.
Hi James,
It looks like we unfortunately won’t be stocking the port anytime soon—this is not a Motorola-specific part, and they don’t often offer bare replacement components. I would suggest looking for the port at electronic part stores such as Digi-Key.
Excellent disassembly/assembly guide. However, the real difficulty is in the soldering; replacing this surface mounted connector is quite tricky. I tried to use a heat gun and was successful in removing the connector, but used way too much liquid solder when I tried to replace the connector and shorted all the pins together - total loss at this point. Heat gun with liquid solder should work but use solder sparingly!! BTW, lots of connectors available - both on eBay and Amazon.
At what temperature shold the glass be heated to? My heat gun goes from 250 up to 1350.
Miles Raymond - Replica
START LOW.
These plastics can be almost endlessly remelted, held at temp, etc., if done gently.
With a heat gun, I'd hesitate to go too far past 250°F/115°C too quickly until I was comfortable with the material.
Plastic WILL begin to burn and permanently deteriorate at 350-400°F or so.
Silicone can handle up to 400-500°F.
(Get a cast iron pot or pan to roughly 250°F/110°C, then invert and put a silicone cookie sheet on it to make a work surface that will make life waaaaaay easier. Preheat the device along with the pan for a few minutes, too.)
Filthy Pazuzu - Replica