Introduzione
Segui questa guida per sostituire lo schermo del MacBook Air da 13" di inizio 2015.
Cosa ti serve
Panoramica Video
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Usa un cacciavite P5 Pentalobe per rimuovere le dieci viti che tengono in posizione il case inferiore, delle seguenti lunghezze:
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Due viti da 9 mm
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Otto viti da 2,6 mm
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Inserisci le tue dita tra il display e il case inferiore e tira verso l'alto per separare il case inferiore dal MacBook Air.
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Rimuovi il case inferiore e mettilo da parte.
There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.
To add - the slim 1cm tab “nub” is on the centre of the back cover & fits into a hole in the battery frame. I ran my fingers around the whole of the cover to eventually here it click out.
nijafe -
So this is a legit back cover for MacBook Air?
I bought the part and tools from iFixit and followed the directions. The mechanical part went smoothly - maybe 10 minutes to disassemble/replace/reassemble.
Getting Catalina (the current MacOS) to install was not working until I used Cmd-Opt-R (as noted in the OWC paper sheet that came in the box) which brought up the proper installer - I believe from a pre-prepared bootable SD card but it’s hard to say. From there the install succeeded taking ~1.5 hours.
Beware that (a) the install requires a working internet connection for verification and updates, and (b) the system must have been running at least macOs 10.13 (High Sierra) before the install in order to have an EFI BIOS that recognizes the SSD.
Thanks for the detailed photos. When repairing equipment, I don’t really like to disassemble plastic parts, they can be damaged, but your screenshots help a lot. For my studies, I am writing an essay comparing the reliability of laptops from various manufacturers and the complexity of their repair, maybe it will be useful for someone to check the essay for plagiarism here essay checker, when comparing different manufacturers, I understood why people love Apple so much. The minimum number of failures. Of course, repairing it in an official service is not cheap, but with the help of such detailed instructions, you can do it yourself and save a lot.
The screwdriver bit to use on these case screws is not named, but I found that my "CR-V 1.2" did the job nicely.
The driver for the screws inside the case are named, as "T5".
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Afferra la piccola striscia di plastica trasparente attaccata al connettore della batteria e tirala parallelamente alla scheda verso il bordo anteriore dell'Air.
how does a person put the battery connector back in?- that is the only thing i’m afraid of touching after putting new fan in.
I found it was possible to put the battery connector back in as the last step, however having gone through that and found it to be a little challenging, I would actually recommend attaching the battery connector before screwing back in the bracket. That way you’ll put a lot less stress on the connector cable.
When you are plugging the connector back in, make sure to give it some extra pressure to make sure it is all the way in. It may look like it’s in but needs to be pushed harder!
After disconnecting the power, you may skip directly to step 18. I don’t know why someone would think it necessary to disconnect all the other stuff. There is no need whatsoever to do so. The more things you disconnect, the more things you risk damaging. Many of the parts in steps 4 through 17 are quite delicate, and easy damaged.
The screw in step 18 is easily accessed without removing even the rubber gasket. Regarding step 18, only remove the screw. (This screw is rather long, with long threads.)
It’s helpful to take photographs of this area before removing the screw, so you’ll know what it’s supposed to look like when you put it back together.
There are only 16 steps in this repair process. I wonder whether you are commenting on a different repair.
What if your battery doesn’t have that clear tab?
Yep, exactly the issue that I have
Where can i buy the battery connector?
Macbook air 2015 battery connector where can I purchase?
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Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore del cavo della scheda I/O e scollegarlo dalla presa sulla scheda I/O.
When putting this back together, be careful you don’t flip I/O board cable. It will fit, but the computer will not work. You’ll know it’s wrong if it covers the fan.
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Scolla delicatamente il cavo della scheda I/O dall'adesivo che le tiene fermo sopra la ventola.
the instructions should really indicate you’re only disconnecting one end of the cable. you disconnect the other end in step 6.
Bonjour,quand je retire la nappe de la carte E/S , l’éclairage de l’écran s’affiche mais quand je remets la nappe de la carte E/S ,j’ai un écran noir.J’attends votre réponse.Cordialement.
I literally did this wrong just like you warned not to! Very easy to do…
I watched the video twice and went really slowly through steps and it works!!! It was a little scary but we got through it! Thanks so much!!
20.00000.000$
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Mentre tiri delicatamente il cavo vicino alla sua presa sulla scheda madre, usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per far leva su entrambi i lati del connettore alternandoli per muoverlo man mano verso l'alto e scollegarlo.
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Rimuovi il cavo della scheda I/O.
pour le remontage
de mon coté tout c’est bien passé, il faut juste bien vérifier la nappe de la carte E/S soit à l’endroit, car sinon l’ordinateur refuse de démarrer ( se référer à la photo du coup )
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Usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare delicatamente l'aletta di bloccaggio sul connettore ZIF della ventola.
The end of that cord slips into the channel whose lid you just flipped up. Don’t forget to re-insert that when reseating the fan and before flipping that retaining flap closed, it’s easy to miss and should have been part of these instructions, ifixit!
Thank you so much! Without your comment, I wouldn’t of realized that the ribbon cable is supposed to go into the socket (I know, dumb mistake now that I think about it). You also made me go back and correctly insert the microphone cable. Cheers!
After my repair, my fan is super loud now! Any tips?
I didn’t find any need to unplug the fan. All I did was remove the three screws which hold the fan to the case and gently fold the fan out of the way. All you are trying to do is gain enough room to route the camera cable into the little cut-out in the I/O board so it can go below the board along the edge of the fan.
I agree, BobY. I too didn't disconnect the fan cable. Those retaining flaps are so tiny it's hard even to see whether or not they are flipped up, so I was happy not to have to deal with it. That meant, however, that I had to be extra careful not to stress the fan cable when removing the fan (or more precisely, just lifting it out of the way rather than removing it completely), but I seem to have succeeded.
I wish I'd read these comments before unplugging that cable. I can't figure out how to reseat the cable so I can close the retaining flap. It would help if I could see it better, or had a better idea of how it was connected before I unplugged it.
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Scolla la guarnizione in gomma dall'adesivo che la fissa sopra la ventola.
When putting the computer together, pay attention to the placement of the gasket. It has a pin on the left side the enters the main board from the bottom. The right side straddles the tip of the heat pipe and there is a photo later on with close-up.
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Svita le seguenti viti che tengono ferma la ventola nella scocca superiore:
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Una vite Torx T5 da 5,2 mm
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Una vite Torx T5 da 3,3 mm
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Una vite Torx T5 da 4,4 mm con la testa corta
I was unable to remove the 4.4 mm screw with the T5. I needed to use the T4 to get a grip so I didn’t strip the head.
The 3.3mm Torx is actually a 4.4mm
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Solleva la ventola dal lato della scheda I/O e rimuovila dalla scocca superiore.
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Rimuovere la ventola scollegherà anche il suo cavo a nastro: stai attento a non strapparlo.
I didn’t find any need to remove the fan. I had no trouble routing the camera cable between the fan and the I/O board by just tilting the edge of the fan nearest the I/O board up and out of the way (pretty much what is being shown in the picture above).
I agree. I had to put something under the tilted (not removed) fan in order to have room to work, but it went okay.
I removed it but it was a little tricky getting the ribbon cable back in. I was afraid it would break but it finally seated after a little wiggling.
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Scollega la scheda I/O tirando il suo cavo di alimentazione fuori dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda madre.
The connector has a latch (at least mine does) that prevents it from simply sliding out. To release it, I inserted a 5/64 flathead screwdriver to lift the edge of the socket. Then the jack and cable easily slides out.
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Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per scollegare il connettore dello speaker sinistro dalla sua presa sulla scheda I/O.
when i did this the whole socket came off the board and i had to get a replacement i/o board. Be warned, do this very carefully and avoid my mistake
If you are here to replace the logic board, you can skip steps 12-16, they’re unnecessary to replace the logic board.
How do you put this back?? I’m struggling to figure out how to get the connector back into the socket of the new I/O board
You just line it up and push it down into the socket. Straight down, not sideways.
For Display disassembly you can skip this step.
I replaced a broken display of a MB Air with the functional of another MB Air. I removed the I/O board while disassembling the first Display, then I saw the comments so I tried it out while disassembling the second display. Worked out totally fine and saved me some time.
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Usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare delicatamente l'aletta di bloccaggio del connettore ZIF del microfono.
There was black tape covering this socket. It was attached to the ribbon tape. I needed to pull up the tape covering the socket to expose the retaining clip.
Thanks Brant!
The note about the black tape should be in RED in the main text above. I broke off the connector thinking the tape was part of the cable assembly. Always read the comments. Always. : )
Ripped the connector off the picture was too small and I couldn’t see what part to lift.
If you click on the picture, you'll get a nice detailed blown-up view.
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Svita la vite Torx T5 da 4,1 mm che tiene ferma la scheda I/O sulla scocca superiore.
Steps 14-15 & 28-29 seem unnecessary. I managed to replace the logic board without removing the I/O board or right speaker, although that means the logic board cannot be removed easily - the right rear corner is hindered by part of the chassis so that the edge of the logic board facing the battery should be lifted gently first and then the board be slid away from that obstructing part.
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Delicatamente sfila il cavo della camera dall'apposita rientranza nella scheda I/O e spostalo da parte con la punta di uno spudger.
This is really tricky. I couldn't de-route the cable as long as the I/O board was still in place. Had to lift the board mostly out of place in order to get enough slack in the cable to de-route it. Otherwise, I was going to have to force the de-routing, which seemed like a really bad idea.
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Solleva la scheda I/O dalla parte vicino alla scheda madre e rimuovila dalla scocca superiore.
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Rimuovere la scheda I/O scollegherà anche il cavo del microfono: stai attento a non strapparlo.
Nor for the logic board removal
The back end of the microphone riibbon cable may be stuck down with a bit of glue under the flap. You can gently loosen it with a flat spudger.
how do I reattach the riibbon cable now that the adhesive has been removed?
I wonder if you weren't replacing the I/O board, BobY, but rather were doing some other repair. I say this because the microphone ribbon cable has to be disconnected from the I/O board in order to replace the I/O board, which is the repair that I was working on. And that disconnect/reconnect was definitely the fussiest part of this entire repair. Such tiny components to handle! In the end, I had to resort to using a tweezers, and even then I wasn't sure that everything was fully seated and secure.
I wasn't replacing the I/O Board, I was replacing the entire Display Assembly--I got to this step within the instructions for replacing the Display Assembly. Maybe iFixit uses the same comments if they link to this same step from a different set of repair instructions? My comment was meant to convey you definitely don't need to remove the I/O Board to replace the Display Assembly.
BobY -
I got to this point (Step 16) within the instructions for replacing the Display Assembly, which is where I'm entering this comment. My comment was meant to convey it isn't necessary to remove the I/O Board to replace the Display Assembly, but you certainly would need to remove the I/O Board to replace the I/O Board.
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Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per staccare i connettori delle antenne dalle loro sedi sulla scheda AirPort/Bluetooth.
Wow! This was so easy to unplug the antenna cables but it took me forever to get them plugged back in. I got it but it took me about 40 mins of positioning and pushing down with the bludger.
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Usa la punta di uno spudger per scollegare il connettore del cavo della camera.
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Tira il cavo della camera in modo parallelo alla scheda madre verso il bordo frontale del MacBook Air per scollegarlo.
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Rimuovi ora il cavo dalla sua presa sulla scheda madre.
There is a 3d barcode on the flap. You know you have the cable oriented correctly when the barcode is facing down and the clip is closed.
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Svita le quattro viti Torx T8 da 5,6 mm interne (due per ogni lato) che uniscono le cerniere dello schermo alla scocca superiore.
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Delicatamente sfila i cavi delle antenne dal loro incavo nella scocca superiore.
This step neglects to mention that if you don’t de-route it even further than shown in the photo AND undo the the tiny screw below the left hinge, then this wire will break later on
I agree with mckenziemardelli and ALOS that the combined antenna cables are “clamped” and retained by two of the right hinge screws.
Absolutely! Also, pay attention to the orientation of the thin bracket which is clamped to the cable for when you reassemble the computer. There are wrong ways to put it on.
You can clearly see this thin bracket in the photo of Step 14 mounted on the two right-most screws of the hinge.
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Apri leggermente il MacBook Air per lasciare spazio alle cerniere di sfilarsi dai propri alloggi.
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Spingi lievemente la scocca superiore in avanti verso lo schermo, quindi spingila lontano dalle cerniere.
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Una volta separate le cerniere dalla scocca superiore, rimuovi lo schermo e mettilo da parte.
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This is the part that will have you cursing whomever designed this.
It’s not too bad once you know the trick: since there are two antennas (WiFi and Bluetooth) running together side-by-side within the cable sleeve, the profile of the cable is not round, but oblong. If you try to push the oblong face of the antenna cable into the slots cast into the metal case you will drive yourself crazy—the cable won’t go in without a lot of effort and will likely pop out when you try to insert the cable into the next slot.
If you orient the cable such that the narrow face is pointing up and down, the cable will pretty much go right in using a spudger.
Bonjour,
de mon coté tout c’est bien passé, il faut juste bien vérifier la nappe de la carte E/S soit à l’endroit, car sinon l’ordinateur refuse de démarrer ( se référer à la photo du coup )
Per riassemblare il dispositivo, segui le istruzioni in ordine inverso.
Porta i tuoi rifiuti elettronici a un riciclatore certificato R2 o e-Stewards.
La riparazione non è andata come previsto? Prova a leggere come identificare problemi, o chiedi sulla nostra comunità Risposte per ulteriore aiuto.
Per riassemblare il dispositivo, segui le istruzioni in ordine inverso.
Porta i tuoi rifiuti elettronici a un riciclatore certificato R2 o e-Stewards.
La riparazione non è andata come previsto? Prova a leggere come identificare problemi, o chiedi sulla nostra comunità Risposte per ulteriore aiuto.
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34 Commenti
Followed this guide to replace a broken display assembly on my Macbook Air. Complete everything in 40 minutes with little problem. My only problem was ripping the tab off the microphone ribbon cable which made this part a little bit more difficult, but didn't end up being a huge deal.
Would you be able to replace the screen with a 13" macbook pro retina screen on the newest 2015 13" Macbook Air?
Not even close.
For people who need context with their answers rather than just receiving an ambiguous NO:
The screens from the MacBook Air models and the regular MacBook & MacBook Pro are NOT INTERCHANGEABLE BECAUSE:
they have different connectors. The air has 13 pins and the MacBooks have 20 pins.
(I think that is correct, might be 21 pins)
there is no realistic way to alter the hardware of device.
You would have to use some ritual magic and tweaker math.
We are talking about swapping different architectures in this scenario, so beyond that maybe there is a bridging connector but I would imagine that you would have to install some kind of accelerator to compensate for the difference and render the display properly.
However, on a lighter note:
•2010-2017 Airs have compatible LCDs 11 and 13 inch can be swapped for testing purposes.
•2013-2017 Airs are fully compatible.
•2010-2011 11" Airs have a shorter WIFI cable. •2012 is usable on 2010-2012.
LD GROUP -
perfect guide! thanks a mil.
Great Guide! Thank you! Took a little under an hour to complete!
Excellent step by step. Got to do it twice since the display I purchased was defective. Had a huge black vertical line after installation so I got the added pleasure of pulling the new defective display off and shipping it back to Amazon. Fingers crossed the next one works.
An excellent guide. I noticed it was easier to confuse the orientation of the data cable for the main logic board. Something to keep in mind.
Excellent guide. Suggest you indicate the size of screwdriver your using at each step so as to avoid folks having to look at the notes. Also, you might consider a small dab of blue Loctite on the screws as removing them seems to wear off the original. Finally routing of all of the cables could be mentioned. I was able to figure this out but the layering of the cables is important when reassembling. Finally, I could not find the ‘reassembly’ guide. I realize that reversing the disassembly is the way to go but there are certain items that would have been nice to know like attaching cables before reinserting the logic board makes it easier, that sort of thing. Great job!
Those ribbons were a freakin pain.
I did a lot of bare screen replacement before for Macbook Air 11-inch and 13-inch for 2010 - 2012 models, meaning i only replaced the internal screen and re-used the housing and the cables which all work out quite okay. Question is for the newer models 2013 and above, do these use the same type of internal screen with same LCD connector as with the 2010-2012 models? I know that the iSight connector is different and wider but the wifi connectors and LCD connectors seems the same.
Went through this one to replace the clutch cover on my MBA. Went through it all with no problems. Would be nice if the guide showed removal of the clutch cover.
I did everything and the new display works fine bu the back cover doesnt go in properly? The top right corner near the fan seems to pop out a bit assuming because of the rubber. Is this normal?
You probably need to tuck the airport cables into the little channel better (especially around the fan and tip of the heat sink). Step 27.
$194 on amazon
Could someone please explain why the fan and the I/O and all of the other cables need to be disconnected? They don’t seem to have any connection to the display at all. Why not just disconnect the display cable, the screws the for the hinges and antenna cables in step 22? Everything else just seems extra. Am missing something?
No, you are correct. You don’t need to unplug the fan, only lift the one edge of the fan to route the camera cable properly. You don’t need to do anything to the I/O board and its’ cables—except for the one ribbon cable, as it covers the camera connector.
BobY -
Thank you for this guide! Using it, the comments, and the video, I successfully replaced the screen on my early 2015 MacBook Air (that I dropped almost a year ago) and have been using an external display for ever since. I know nothing about computers, but made sure to read the instructions and comments carefully and took notes and photos along the way to make sure I put it back together correctly. Took me about an hour to take it apart and 20 minutes to reassemble (probably slower than average). I used a replacement screen I bought on eBay and a toolkit from Amazon that had the appropriate screwdrivers and a spudger (cost less than a hundred bones for everything - much cheaper than a new laptop!).
Is there a up or down on lcd cable?
Is it possible to swap the display assembly of a 2015 model A1466 EMC 2925 onto the keyboard assembly of a 2013 model A1466 EMC 2632? I have two airs, one with a broken display and one with a broken keyboard, but they are from 2015 and 2013 respectively and I want to know if the hardware is compatible to swap the two. Thanks for the help!
I had a bit of a comedy of errors, but in the end, all was well. This was for a MacBook Air with a display that would go crazy if you flexed the top lid at all. I had no trouble installing the first replacement display I got from iFixit, but it turned out the Camera was defective internally and the image was blurry, so they sent me another display.
This time I decided to check the function of the camera and the display before going to the trouble of swapping out the display. They both worked fine, but somehow in the process of this delicate balancing act of two displays in each other’s way, I bent the display connector on the new display. I didn’t bend it much, but when I reconnected it, it no longer worked. Arrgh! Fortunately iFixit is dedicated to successful repairs and went out of their way to help me reach a happy conclusion.
I would say it took me about 40 minutes for the first swap and about 30 minutes for the second swap (note, if you look at my comments on each step, I found several steps (which were complicated and fraught with peril) unnecessary. I actually spent more time testing the functionality of the computer to make sure everything was working (display, camera, WiFi, Bluetooth, Power port, speakers, headphones, internal and external microphones, USB Ports and SD card slot), than I did performing the swap. I could have skipped that, but I always verify my work.
Great - helped me a whole lot., I changed my own screen yeeyy .. but now my laptop doesnt connect to the internet and im not sure what I did.
Thanks a lot, I did it three times now! Be careful when you put a new screen, the other hinge screws which were already on the screen tend to lose. I had to remove again the screen after a while cause these other screws were lost. So before installing the new screen I suggest to control the tightening of these screws then.
Perfect guide. Done in about 90 minutes. Thank you so much.
Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!
allison - Replica
Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.
bwgvanderveer - Replica
I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards
ola m - Replica
Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.
andrew - Replica
It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.
Larry Smith - Replica
tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.
Thank you
ilyabuhov - Replica
Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?
anne uhlir - Replica
im looking for a Logic Board for a
Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A
Any help is appreciated.
Jamie Comstock - Replica
P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)
William Skinner - Replica
I had same experience (with MacBook Air 13-inch Mid-2012) … had to get P4, which worked swimmingly
eric -
Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!
Dennis Eaton - Replica
My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!
Pennny Beach - Replica
The supplied kit and instructions worked perfectly!
Nikolay Andreev - Replica
Comments that the P5 pentalobe are too large are absolutely spot-on. There is no way the P5 pentalobe bit I have will work with the MacBook Air without destroying the screws. Hard target search for P4 pentalobe bit in progress…..
joemoog - Replica
Bonjour j’aimerais changer mon SSD de 128 Go pour en mettre un de 512 Go. Je ne sais pas ce qu’il faut prendre car il faut qu’il soit compatible avec le macbook air A1466. J’aurais vu un Samsung Evo 970 500 Go mais si je ne me trompe pas, il faut un adaptateur.
Merci pour votre aide.
chicco33 - Replica
oui, vous aurez besoin d’un adaptateur, pour completez le changement.
Dan -
The tool kit should include tweezers for re-inserting the battery connector.
Andre Clement - Replica
P5 pentalobe worked perfectly for me. Instructions were spot-on. Antenna connections were a bit fiddly to refit but got them in ok.
michaelquinnell - Replica
Maybe the problem some are experiencing is that the designations are confusing (blame Apple rather than iFixit). the P2 is also known as PL1. The P5 is also known as PL4. The P6 is also known as PL5. So it is possible to mistake the P6 (PL5) for the P5 (PL4), meaning it (P6-PL5) will be too big, while the P5 (PL4) will be just right. Sort of a 3 Bears explanation, but it is very confusing.
Thomas Lewis - Replica
To add to this. In searching for the P5 screwdriver to buy in UK, as far as I can tell, it is also known as
Pentalobe 1.2(mm)
also
P4 = 0.8
P6 = 1.5
Just unscrewed the back case of MacBook Air 13” mid 2011, with no problems using Pentalobe 1.2
nijafe -
I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?
Sean Love - Replica
Did mine today - but new battery wasnt charging. Went back in and noticed the battery connector cable was not quite 100% “seated. It was sticking out by less than a millimetre! - you need to give it quite a firm push in to get it seated properly. Otherwise - all ok .
John Brennand - Replica
Just installed on a MacBookAir6,2 (13-inch, Early 2014).
Was very easy.
New iFixit battery looks great so far:
Jonathan Cross - Replica
can you tell me which size of screwdrivers you’ve used to crack it up, please? I have the same model and size,
hawk_lpc -
Screw P5 Pentalobe 1.2
Mario Verlent - Replica
Install went flawlessly. Only challange was reattaching blue tooth antennas. Those sockets are so tiny.
Joel Sebastian - Replica
Installation was a little challenging at first because the instructions on this site did not perfectly match my model (late 2013 to early 2015).
Found this video on YouTube which described the procedure perfectly https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lue6lVWh...
Also the Ifixit kit I received was well put together with everything I needed and more. The calibration went perfectly and I am very pleased. Will buy again!!
Donald Niamath - Replica
Gently pulled out connector of old battery, then pressed and held the power switch for 1 minute. Unscrewed and removed the old battery. Pressed and held power switch for 1 minute again. I know from previous work that this helps drain charge from spontaneous recharging as the dielectric recovers. Gently “fine tuned” leads from new battery to connector till connector stuck out at right angle to the edge of battery. Held the battery by the edges and let the connector slide into the socket. Set the battery down and put the screws in all the way. Then checked that the connector was completely seated before tightening the screws. The laptop come on immediately and showed 98% charge and registered normal (checked in “About this Mac”. Very happy to this point. Now for calibration.
Amir Zaidi - Replica
Thank you very much for the guilde. My MBA2011 had reborn !
Billy Wong - Replica
Allow for electrostatics, otherwise you may cook components on the logicboard /motherboard (like I did with one of these!)
See great advice: Electrostatic Discharge
Fletcher Cole - Replica
… und wenn du eines von diesen wirklich kleinen Schräubchen vermisst: bevor du den Boden aufkehrst oder mit einem starken Magneten absuchst, schau mal am seitlichen (magnetischen) Ladekabelanschluss nach … ?
... and if you miss one of these really small screws: before you sweep the floor or search it with a strong magnet, take a look at the (magnetic) charging cable connection on the side … ?
Blatt - Replica
Fot All People ha ing trouble finding their SSD
DONT PRESS CMD +R + POWER
instead press
OPTION+CMD+R +POWER
I just installed Monterrey with WD black sn 770 SSD in m'y macbook air 2015
Albert - Replica
IFixit just had me submit "my story" re. fixing my MacBook Air 2013.
This repair was NOT difficult. The battery is enclosed in a plastic frame. It is NOT glued in like the newer models of Apple laptops. And unlike older laptops, the battery is not totally enclosed in a plastic housing. So once you remove the screws holding the batterie's frame, you can remove the battery.
Follow the instructions. Read the comments. Also read the comments re. installing a new battery.
Good luck. - Eric J.
ECJohansen - Replica
On the back of the laptop, notice that each screw is angled a little bit inward, aiming toward the middle of the laptop. Keep your screwdriver lined up with the screw (angled a bit outward as seen at 01:23 in the video: https://youtu.be/tToAwO6f-SY&t=83). This will help you get a good bite on the screw to get it out and avoid stripping the head of the screw.
Use the same angle when putting each screw back in. If the screw is in line with its hole it should not feel like you are fighting to screw it in. If it does, check your angle and back up a little; you should feel the screw fall into line.
Rich Garella - Replica
IFixit just had me submit "my story" re. fixing my MacBook Air 2013.
This repair was NOT difficult. The battery is enclosed in a plastic frame.
shrhh - Replica