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Introduzione

This guide shows how to replace the front facing selfie camera for the Pixel 3a. Since the camera is connected to the motherboard’s underside, you will have to remove the motherboard in order to remove the camera.

The Pixel 3a’s unreinforced display panel is fragile. If you are reusing the screen, be sure to pay special attention to the warnings in the opening procedure.

The trickiest part of the procedure is re-attaching the proximity sensor connector, which requires some patience and finesse.

  1. Insert a SIM eject tool, SIM eject bit, or a paper clip into the SIM tray hole. Press to eject the tray. Press to eject the tray.
    • Insert a SIM eject tool, SIM eject bit, or a paper clip into the SIM tray hole.

    • Press to eject the tray.

  2. Take note of the two seams on the phone: Screen seam: This seam separates the screen from the rest of the phone. This is where you should pry. Frame seam: This is where the plastic frame meets the back cover. It is held in place by screws. Do not pry at this seam.
    • Take note of the two seams on the phone:

    • Screen seam: This seam separates the screen from the rest of the phone. This is where you should pry.

    • Frame seam: This is where the plastic frame meets the back cover. It is held in place by screws. Do not pry at this seam.

    • Before you begin prying, note the following areas on the screen:

    • Screen flex cable: Do not pry deeper than instructed, or you risk damaging this cable.

    • Adhesive perimeter: Prying beyond the narrow perimeter without angling the pick will damage the display panel.

    Power is off, but does the battery need to be disconnect to safely do this replacement?

    mplishka - Replica

  3. Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the display for a minute.
    • Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the display for a minute.

    • You can choose to skip this step since the Pixel 3a's screen adhesive is not very strong. Heating it, however, will decrease the chance of cracking the screen.

    I used a washcloth soaked with hot water and sealed in a plastic bag instead of the iOpener for this step, and it worked great.

    E. Dunham - Replica

  4. Place a suction cup near the right edge of the screen. Pull on the suction cup with strong steady force. Insert the pick into the gap, no more than 1 mm.
    • Place a suction cup near the right edge of the screen.

    • Pull on the suction cup with strong steady force.

    • Insert the pick into the gap, no more than 1 mm.

  5. This step shows how to insert the pick without damaging the OLED panel. Do this before you slice either long edges of the phone. With the pick 1 mm in the gap, pivot the pick upwards to a steep angle. At this angle, carefully push the pick into the gap about 1/4" (6 mm). The pick should slide in below the OLED panel.
    • This step shows how to insert the pick without damaging the OLED panel. Do this before you slice either long edges of the phone.

    • With the pick 1 mm in the gap, pivot the pick upwards to a steep angle.

    • At this angle, carefully push the pick into the gap about 1/4" (6 mm). The pick should slide in below the OLED panel.

    • Stop if you feel the point of the pick hitting a ridge. The pick may be pressing against the edge of the OLED panel. Angle the pick and try again.

    If you don’t have picks, you can also use the corner of an old gift card, though it may be necessary to shave it a bit thinner with a knife so it fits the gap better.

    E. Dunham - Replica

  6. Slide the pick along the right edge, slicing through the adhesive. Do not insert the pick more than 1/4" (6 mm), or you may damage the screen's flex cable. Leave a pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
    • Slide the pick along the right edge, slicing through the adhesive.

    • Do not insert the pick more than 1/4" (6 mm), or you may damage the screen's flex cable.

    • Leave a pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

    Don’t make my mistake and read ahead. 6mm may be too close for comfort! 8mm is definitely too far and caused me to damage. Also be sure to read the right manual! I have an XL and it notes 5mm.

    Miguel Higgins-Moy - Replica

    Fortunately my old screen was beyond repair, But be super careful around the bottom I managed to sever the ribbon cable to the digitizer.

    Stephen Hammons - Replica

    I broke my screen here. The adhesive in my case was quite strong on the top and bottom.

    Mario Flores - Replica

    This is by far the hardest part of the entire replacement. I ruined my screen doing this, you might as well buy a new screen at the same time as you buy your battery. I just barely rubbed the edges of my screen and it turned the edge of my screen purple. This eventually migrated to the entire screen causing the whole thing to be purple/black.

    Ross Lancaster - Replica

  7. As you slice around the bottom edge of the phone, do not insert the pick more than 1/4" (6 mm). Slide the pick around the bottom right corner to slice through the adhesive. If the corner feels hard to slice, apply a heated iOpener to the corner for a minute and try again.
    • As you slice around the bottom edge of the phone, do not insert the pick more than 1/4" (6 mm).

    • Slide the pick around the bottom right corner to slice through the adhesive.

    • If the corner feels hard to slice, apply a heated iOpener to the corner for a minute and try again.

    • Continue slicing along the bottom edge of the phone and around the left corner.

  8. Slice through the left edge of the phone, making sure to properly angle the pick below the OLED panel and insert it in no more than 1/4" (6 mm). To angle the pick below the OLED panel, insert the point of the pick no more than 1 mm in, angle the pick upwards, and then slowly push the pick in 1/4". To angle the pick below the OLED panel, insert the point of the pick no more than 1 mm in, angle the pick upwards, and then slowly push the pick in 1/4".
    • Slice through the left edge of the phone, making sure to properly angle the pick below the OLED panel and insert it in no more than 1/4" (6 mm).

    • To angle the pick below the OLED panel, insert the point of the pick no more than 1 mm in, angle the pick upwards, and then slowly push the pick in 1/4".

  9. Slice along the top edge while keeping the pick no more than 5/16" (8 mm) in. Slice along the top edge while keeping the pick no more than 5/16" (8 mm) in. Slice along the top edge while keeping the pick no more than 5/16" (8 mm) in.
    • Slice along the top edge while keeping the pick no more than 5/16" (8 mm) in.

    There is a LOT more adhesive at the top than anywhere else on the phone! It’s like there’s 2 lines of adhesive, one along the edge of the case and one along the edge of the screen, and it’s filled in between them wherever the speaker camera aren’t. I needed to heat and pry several times to get the top loose. Fortunately, there’s little risk of hitting a cable near the top (look ahead to the step where you lift the screen off to see where all the cables go!)

    E. Dunham - Replica

    I found that applying the iOpener across the top edge of the glass for about 30 seconds at this step helped soften the adhesive significantly. My front camera was replaced only a few months ago by uBreakiFix and the display adhesive subsequently let go on the entire right edge, bottom, and part of the left side shortly after the new front camera failed. Only the top was still securely stuck.

    Reid Solberg - Replica

  10. With all of the edges cut, carefully hinge open the right edge of the screen. Do not remove the screen. It is still attached to the phone by a flex cable near the left edge.
    • With all of the edges cut, carefully hinge open the right edge of the screen.

    • Do not remove the screen. It is still attached to the phone by a flex cable near the left edge.

    • Use an opening pick to carefully cut through any remaining adhesive.

  11. With all of the adhesives cut, flip the attached screen glass side down and rest it on top of the phone. The screen flex cable should be loosely arched. With all of the adhesives cut, flip the attached screen glass side down and rest it on top of the phone. The screen flex cable should be loosely arched. With all of the adhesives cut, flip the attached screen glass side down and rest it on top of the phone. The screen flex cable should be loosely arched.
    • With all of the adhesives cut, flip the attached screen glass side down and rest it on top of the phone. The screen flex cable should be loosely arched.

    Hi, could you help me with one clarification?

    What does the small “metal patch” in the middle of the display ribbon do?

    Does it prevent the phone from starting while disconnected?

    Thank you for your time!

    oliver schirmer - Replica

    Hi Oliver,

    I think the patch you’re referring to helps with either EM shielding or heat dissipation. It should not prevent the phone from starting.

    Arthur Shi -

  12. Carefully peel the black tape covering the screen connector bracket. If it is in good condition, you can re-use this tape during reassembly. Otherwise, replace it with a piece of electrical tape. Remove the two 4.4 mm long T3 screws securing the screen connector bracket.
    • Carefully peel the black tape covering the screen connector bracket.

    • If it is in good condition, you can re-use this tape during reassembly. Otherwise, replace it with a piece of electrical tape.

    • Remove the two 4.4 mm long T3 screws securing the screen connector bracket.

    • Remove the screen connector bracket.

    This may be a silly question but how are you able to tell whether the tape is in good condition? Is it based off of how sticky it is after you remove it?

    Sylvia - Replica

    That is a fair question! If the tape is in one piece and is relatively sticky, it can probably be used again.

    Arthur Shi -

    Oops! I forgot to put any tape back. Does this tape have a critical purpose, in other words should I go to the trouble to pry the screen back off and tape it?

    elyze - Replica

    The tape does not serve a critical purpose. If you have already re-sealed your phone, I wouldn’t worry about it.

    Arthur Shi -

    Les vis sont des T4 et non des T3

    Gaëtan PERRIER - Replica

    Bonjour Gaëtan ! Merci pour la remarque. En fait, il y a toujours une certaine tolérance entre le tournevis et la tête de vis. Donc il se peut que la taille supérieure ou inférieure soit plus “confortable” au cas par cas. Bonne réparation !

    Claire Miesch -

    Bonjour,

    Pouvez-vous me conseiller un bon kit de réparation pour mon Google Pixel 3A?

    J'ai peur de me faire arnaquer en achetant un mauvais écran de basse qualité .

    mailsecoursd - Replica

  13. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the screen flex cable. When you disconnect connectors like these, be careful not to dislodge the small surface-mounted components surrounding the socket.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the screen flex cable.

    • When you disconnect connectors like these, be careful not to dislodge the small surface-mounted components surrounding the socket.

    • To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

    I had accidentally pressed the power button and the phone was on when connecting the new screen and that broke the board! So make sure the phone is off.

    Diako Mardanbegi - Replica

  14. Remove the screen. Carefully compare your replacement screen with your original part. You may need to transfer additional components (such as the speaker mesh) to the new part. To reinstall the screen:
    • Remove the screen.

    • Carefully compare your replacement screen with your original part. You may need to transfer additional components (such as the speaker mesh) to the new part.

    • To reinstall the screen:

    • Follow this guide if you are using custom-cut adhesives.

    • If you are using double-sided tape such as Tesa tape, follow this guide.

    There is a blue plastic tape covering the digitizer and when I try to take it off it rips out something more than just the tape I think it’s pulling the magnet too

    Darien Suarez - Replica

    i had a little plastic piece around the camera (seems to just be a spacer) that i moved to the new screen. had to pry it up with a pick cuz it was stuck down good.

    elyze - Replica

    actually to clarify- i didn’t move the little camera spacer to the new screen- i placed it around the camera on the phone, where there was a little indent for it, and stuck it down with a bit of tesa strip, then applied more tesa strips around the edge of the phone before finally reconnecting and replacing the screen. the little plastic bit i encountered needs to be precisely placed around the camera so would not be a good idea to just stick it to the screen when reinstalling!

    elyze -

    Thanks team! I was able to replace my broken screen with no issues!

    Instead of cutout adhesives or tesa tape, I used B-7000. Painless.

    Appreciate the screen and instructions!

    Jessica Hale - Replica

    Bonjour,

    Pouvez-vous me conseiller un bon kit de réparation pour mon Google Pixel 3A?

    J'ai peur de me faire arnaquer en achetant un mauvais écran de basse qualité .

    Hello . Can you advice me a site where i Can buy a quality screen replacement pack for my Google Pixel 3A?

    There's a lot of rip off on internet and id like to get a good pack and a quality screen .

    Bichette Laterreur - Replica

    Hello! We currently sell a replacement screen. However, I’m not sure if it is available yet internationally.

    Arthur Shi -

    I have a quick question, so I haven’t done anything yet because I only just ordered my repair kit, but is it possible to replace the battery without having to replace the display ?

    Braeden - Replica

    Hi Braeden!

    Yes, it is definitely possible to replace the battery without replacing the display. With that said, the initial entry steps can be pretty tricky. Before you begin, look very closely over the display to see if you can see any micro-fractures. If you see any, you will most likely crack the screen when you try to remove it. Take your time and apply a heated iOpener often. Good luck!

    Arthur Shi -

    I forgot to order the tape when getting my replacement USB port, so I ended up putting the screen back on without any tape and using regular clear tape on the outside of the phone to keep the screen from falling off. It’s less waterproof, but it’ll do the job until the right part arrives.

    E. Dunham - Replica

    Speaker mesh appeared to already be in place on my replacement screen, so I did not transfer this over from my old screen. That was a huge mistake, sounds were garbled above about 30% volume. Make sure you do this part!

    Evan Heisman - Replica

  15. Remove the fourteen T3 screws of the following lengths securing the plastic midframe:
    • Remove the fourteen T3 screws of the following lengths securing the plastic midframe:

    • Twelve 4.3 mm silver T3 screws

    • Two 4.3 mm black T3 screws

    I found that a T3 bit didn’t get purchase on the screws in my Pixel 3a, but the T4 bit worked great. Not sure what’s up with that.

    E. Dunham - Replica

    This is definitely possible, depending on which kit’s T3 bit you use, along with potential screw quality variances.

    Arthur Shi -

  16. The midframe is still held in place by plastic clips. Insert an opening pick into frame seam at the bottom of the phone. This seam sits between the plastic midframe and the back cover. Slide the pick along the seam to release the clips holding the plastic midframe.
    • The midframe is still held in place by plastic clips.

    • Insert an opening pick into frame seam at the bottom of the phone. This seam sits between the plastic midframe and the back cover.

    • Slide the pick along the seam to release the clips holding the plastic midframe.

  17. Slide the opening pick along the left and right edges of the phone to release the midframe clips. Lift the bottom edge of the plastic midframe up but do not remove the midframe. The midframe is still tethered to the phone by the fragile proximity sensor cable at the top edge. To reinstall the plastic midframe, align the midframe to the back cover, and squeeze the perimeter of the phone with your fingers to snap the clips back into position.
    • Slide the opening pick along the left and right edges of the phone to release the midframe clips.

    • Lift the bottom edge of the plastic midframe up but do not remove the midframe. The midframe is still tethered to the phone by the fragile proximity sensor cable at the top edge.

    • To reinstall the plastic midframe, align the midframe to the back cover, and squeeze the perimeter of the phone with your fingers to snap the clips back into position.

  18. Use the point of a spudger to carefully pry up and disconnect the proximity sensor connector from the motherboard. Your proximity sensor connector may have automatically disconnected itself when you lifted the midframe. Remove the plastic midframe.
    • Use the point of a spudger to carefully pry up and disconnect the proximity sensor connector from the motherboard.

    • Your proximity sensor connector may have automatically disconnected itself when you lifted the midframe.

    • Remove the plastic midframe.

  19. This step shows how to reconnect the proximity sensor during re-assembly. Align the top edge of the plastic midframe with the phone. Use the point of a spudger to carefully align and push the proximity sensor connector onto the motherboard socket.
    • This step shows how to reconnect the proximity sensor during re-assembly.

    • Align the top edge of the plastic midframe with the phone.

    • Use the point of a spudger to carefully align and push the proximity sensor connector onto the motherboard socket.

    • This takes a bit of patience and finesse. Once you have the connector in place, you can also use a finger to gently press the connector onto the socket.

    • Alternatively, you can remove the proximity sensor from the midframe to reattach it to the motherboard first.

    • Use the point of a spudger to carefully pry the proximity sensor out of its recess on the midframe. The sensor is lightly adhered to the midframe.

    • Remove the sensor from the midframe. Attach the sensor connector onto its motherboard socket.

    • Thread the sensor cable through the midframe and reposition the sensor in the recess. Press down with your finger to adhere the sensor back onto the midframe.

    I tried to do this for about 15 minutes before I went to the alternative. There is a tiny post to hold the sensor in position on the midframe. I pried the sensor from the midframe from the corner opposite that post and then finished this step in 2 minutes.

    jason.naylor - Replica

    Definitely plan b for reconnecting the proximaty sensor…

    noel - Replica

    Plan B ok for me as well. There is a hole below the sensor in order to push it with a sim card opener.

    Laurent GUILLOT - Replica

  20. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery connector from its motherboard socket. Bend the battery flex cable slightly so that it will not accidentally make contact with the socket. Bend the battery flex cable slightly so that it will not accidentally make contact with the socket.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery connector from its motherboard socket.

    • Bend the battery flex cable slightly so that it will not accidentally make contact with the socket.

  21. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the interconnect flex cable from its motherboard socket. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the interconnect flex cable from its motherboard socket.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the interconnect flex cable from its motherboard socket.

  22. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the left squeeze sensor cable connector from its motherboard socket. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the left squeeze sensor cable connector from its motherboard socket.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the left squeeze sensor cable connector from its motherboard socket.

  23. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the right buttons connector from its motherboard socket. Pry up the right squeeze sensor cable connector from its motherboard socket. Pry up the right squeeze sensor cable connector from its motherboard socket.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the right buttons connector from its motherboard socket.

    • Pry up the right squeeze sensor cable connector from its motherboard socket.

  24. Remove the single 2.7 mm T3 screw securing the motherboard near the right edge.
    • Remove the single 2.7 mm T3 screw securing the motherboard near the right edge.

  25. Make sure you have ejected your SIM tray. Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the right edge of the motherboard and pry upwards to loosen the board.
    • Make sure you have ejected your SIM tray.

    • Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the right edge of the motherboard and pry upwards to loosen the board.

  26. Grasp the right edge of the motherboard and swing it left until it lays flat. Do not remove the motherboard. It is still attached to the rest of the phone.
    • Grasp the right edge of the motherboard and swing it left until it lays flat.

    • Do not remove the motherboard. It is still attached to the rest of the phone.

  27. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the camera connector from its motherboard socket. Remove the camera from its recess, peeling the adhesive holding it in place. Remove the camera from its recess, peeling the adhesive holding it in place.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the camera connector from its motherboard socket.

    • Remove the camera from its recess, peeling the adhesive holding it in place.

Conclusione

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Google Pixel 3a Answers community for troubleshooting help.

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Arthur Shi

Membro da: 03/01/2018

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Un commento

This was super helpful! My phone was in for repair last year at a Google ASP for a front camera failure, but then it happened again a few months later, along with intermittent “phone is getting warm” warnings, and the display adhesive letting go. Upon removal of the midframe screws, I discovered that only two or three of them were fully driven, with the rest being significantly loose. I don’t believe the midframe was making good contact with the thermal blocks on the logic board. Further, when I removed the logic board, I discovered that the front camera flex was completely unplugged from the logic board. Perhaps the loose midframe allowed the camera to move around and work its connector loose. I seated the connector and confirmed it was solid, the front camera is now working, and I’ve fully reassembled the device. It seems less laggy as well! I guess I have a spare front camera now.

Reid Solberg - Replica

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