Rick Nelson

Hey guys! I'm working on reviving an iMac G5 17" Model A1144 and I've come across some roadblocks. The primary issue is...

For the longest time, my Pentax K200D had been inexplicably stuck in autofocus. Since it has been out of warranty for...

Hi iFixIt community! I have a 2009 13" Unibody MacBook Pro and it's been and incredible and indispensable resource to me...

Tonight I made a second attempt to install a different logic board into a MacBook Core Duo that I've been working on. For...

I just finished doing some major computer repairs on a 2.0GHz MacBook Core Duo. About a week or two ago, my mother was...

This is a particularly difficult task to start, but once you start freeing some of the clips, it gets much easier. I started with regular opening tools and very frustratingly worked my way into the seam between the front and rear panels. This takes extreme patience. Once you get enough of the seam open on one side of the iPod, use a very thin 1" wide spackle blade and very gently flex the blade down toward your work surface until some of the clips free themselves. Allow the blade to flex away from your hand a bit, but be careful. It's very terrifying, but with confidence and determination, you'll be able to get the job done. Here's a photo of my tools and the opened iPod. Sorry that I didn't take any step by step ones.

After taking it to Apple, I discovered, with the aid of some very friendly Apple Geniuses, that the hard drive cable somehow ceased functioning and needed to be replaced. That prevented my MacBook Pro from being able to bypass the hard drive upon boot, therefore not allowing it to boot from any other external media. As a plus, it was a free one-day repair!

I'm pretty sure the LCD displays in the MacBooks you have would be incompatible if swapped into either machine. If you look at both displays in iFixIt's parts store, you'll see that they both have different model numbers (IF186-050-1 in the A1181 MacBook and IF163-024 in the A1342 Unibody MacBook). I'm fairly certain they both have a very different construction as well, seeing as though the MacBook underwent major design changes when the transition from MacBook to Unibody MacBook took place. Hope this helps!

There are a few issues that might cause a MacBook to not boot up like you're experiencing, such as a damaged power button on the top case (sometimes due to spill damage), a bad logic board, or other various small issues. Does the MagSafe light illuminate when plugged into the DC-in board? Is the battery receiving power (the level indicator should light up when the button is pressed)? Have you tried resetting the PMU/SMC by holding down the power button for 10 seconds while the machine is connected to AC power? You should see the sleep light flicker and hear a tone. If that doesn't work, you might want to try resetting the PRAM. Hope this helps!

If you're still unsure of this, here's what I see. If you compare the replacement batteries that iFixIt offers for the A1342 13" Unibody MacBooks with the A1278 13" MacBook Pros, you'll see that each has a different Apple Part Number and Product Code. It also appears that they each have their own distinct design that would make them incompatible with other models. So to answer your question, I'm fairly certain that they are not the same batteries and would not work in models other than those that they were intended to be in. Hope this helps!