Typically, when you pull the ear cup padding back, you will find 3 or 4 screws that hold the driver plate to the cup. Another setup is a series of slots and tabs. There, all you need to do is use a small flat tip screwdriver to disengage the tab and separate the plate from the cup
With respect to the 2 wires you refer to,. I've been unable to locate any reference to them in any of my manuals. As to grounding the chassis or using the harness ground, I've always provided both a harness ground and a chassis ground. This will all but guarantee you'll always have a ground. I'll continue looking into the wiring you mentioned.
When you press the square button to bring up your recent apps, there will be an "X" in the top right corner of the app header. When you press the "X", the app is closed and removed from the recent app section.
Without knowing the model number, It would be difficult to give you a good answer. That being said, I recall a time when my grandson set passwords on his mother's Acer laptop. I was at a loss as to how to reset them. A phone call to Acer Tech support took care of the problem. Seems there is a set of master passwords for most of their systems. You might give them a call and see if they can help.
Chances are very good that you simply need to replace the clutch cable. Sounds to me like the cable has become stuck in the housing, not allowing the cable to slide freely in the housing. Thus causing the drive wheels to remain engaged.
Unfortunately, there are a large number of videos and articles on You Tube -- and elsewhere on the net -- that are totally fake or intentionally misleading. While some are written and produced by some very well meaning people, others are simply out there to wreak havoc. I'm sorry to say that you have fallen prey to one of those videos/articles. Dunking your phone in a container of alcohol -- typically people will use isopropyl alcohol -- is no different than dunking it in water. Isopropyl alcohol is typically 30~50% water. Which is about all you need to damage sensitive electronics. Even if you used denatured alcohol, you likely caused damage that you cannot see. Partly because you cannot see the underside of the components mounted on the board, or inside the many sub assemblies (camera, headphone jack, charging port, etc.). People tend to believe that alcohol does not leave any residue when it dries. Unfortunately, this is simply not the case. Back in the day, we would use freon TF for our precision...
While I agree with @oldturkey03, that pictures and the model number would be helpful, My initial thought is that what you're seeing is the result of a loose or bad video chip on the motherboard. From my experience, this is a common fault with Asus laptops, especially some of the older ones. While the teardown of a laptop can be a daunting adventure, it is something that is done thousands of times every day. Repairing the motherboard is quite another story. Without the proper tools, you can inadvertently do more harm than good. That said, unless you have those tools, I would recommend replacing the motherboard. Provided that is you have determined that to be the true cause of the issue, and not a truly defective or broken LCD.
Okay, here's the root of the problem. Everywhere that the superglue touched, and subsequently the acetone and rubbing alcohol caused the insulation to harden and in some places crystalize. If there is no short, electrical tape will provide a short term solution -- the glue on the tape will eventually fail and become a sticky mess. A better solution is to open the headphone and pull the worn insulation into the housing. Once the casing is opened you should find a couple of small tabs that the wire can be wrapped around or tied around to prevent it from moving back and forth in the housing. Quite frequently the factory ill have tied a knot in the wire just inside the housing. You would be replicating this same knot a little further down on the wire. If there is a short in the wiring, then the only way to repair it is to shorten it PAST the exposed portion -- typically the short will be in the exposed area, and shortening the wire to that point will only cause you to have to make the same repair twice -- and...