Terrance

you can try apply a little drop of epoxy to the creeping end of that PCB through the small window.

Interesting, this guy’s method is easier to operate and much less work. You can also use 2-part epoxy. Not much will go wrong, just use some fine tool (ex toothpick XD ) to apply the glue.

typo “flash bay“ should be “battery bay“. one screw above top of battery bay.

I finally got my hands on a wasted 1J5 and go on with the tear down. FYI top cover is sort of easy to remove, but very tricky. post more photos later.

I some simple words, after removing main PCB, remove some screws from left-upper right-upper and inside flash bay,you can wiggle the top clean off.

And, the power switch is berried very deep. you have to fond all sneaky screws. Aaaaaand the mode dial cap is double-side-taped, some thermal energy needed.

China’s market, they recycle broken devices and sells parts.

Appended some steps about the sensor. In case you’re interested.

Tear it down and see what’s inside.

This is a professional lens, built very tough. Primary mirror cleaning is quite easy. but front element is kind of tricky. because there’s an inner thread there covered by damping oil/grease. Maybe you should try remove it from the front. remove the filter/cap thread ring first(My cap used to stuck with this ring so I‘ve got this far)…

In step 3, there are 2+3 screw holes at each end , those are for focus ring stopping screws. 3 for inf end and 2 for close end (if my memory is correct). But this is for adjustment instead of “calibration“. By my guess a giant lens like this could never be calibrated due to the TCE of aluminium tube. that’s why the focus ring is allow to go beyond inf.

Never get to know by just thinking.

hmm, haven’t dug that deep yet… The front case disassembly seems very tricky. Also the IR-cut removal.