When you are viewing the song, at the top right just below the total song length is where the shuffle icon appears. It shows in blue when shuffle is active and white when it is not. On the top left, just below the current time for the song is an icon with two arrows "chasing" each other. They are white when repeat is inactive, blue when repeat full playlist is active and blue with a tiny number "1" when repeat 1 song is active. I suspect that you have the repeat 1 song option set. Tap that icon once more to turn it off. Then shuffle should work as expected. Hope that helps.
I have the same question. Does anyone know the voltage readouts for the DC In board connector that leads to the motherboard? I want to verify that the board is putting out enough voltage and would rather not replace it if the problem is with the motherboard.
That's great. The one I repaired this way has been working great. The original replacement guide is just that. It's meant to remove the trackpad and replace it with a new one. I figured I had nothing to lose by digging a little deeper to fix the one I had and this guide is the result. Glad it was helpful.
I just finished a replacement of the battery and the phone would not turn on. The area around the CPU would get very hot when I plugged it into power. I thought for sure the U2 was the problem but the fix turned out to be much simpler. If you look at the Yellow frame in step 15, just below that box where the top left corner of the CPU shield is, you will see a small notch in the corner of the shield.
When I was prying the battery out I must have pressed down on that corner and the shield was shorting to something on the board. Thankfully no damage was done. After carefully prying this corner up and away from the components below, the phone booted up and all is working fine.
I did not use heat to soften the glue. My suggestion would be to take whatever steps you need to soften the glue and make prying the battery out much easier.
Starting in Step 10 there are very delicate connectors that are easily broken. I first attempted to lift one with a spudger and noticed it begin to crack. I found an alternative way that worked perfectly for all of these types of connectors. Using 2 straight pins, press the point of each one just on either side of the connector, between the connector and the housing. Then use each pin to evenly pry the connector up. It will pop right out of the socket with no damage.
I found that at this point I was able to avoid any further steps by removing the screw from the DC in board and the flip the machine over to reveal its connection to the board. I removed this connection and then was able to wiggle the board out and snake the cord out. Avoiding Step 38 saves a lot of screw removal. Not to mention not having to remove the CD Drive also saves a lot of time.
Just be careful when doing this that you do not force the board out of its place. There is room to remove it, but it is a gentle task.
On a Macbook I just tore down, I found that in this step, the 4mm screw was on the left, not the right. I thought maybe someone else had it apart before and accidentally switched them so in staying true to these instructions I tried to reassemble with the 4mm screw on the right. I found it would not go all the way in. I ended up putting it back together with the 2-3mm screws on the right and the 1-4mm screw on the left.
That's great. The one I repaired this way has been working great. The original replacement guide is just that. It's meant to remove the trackpad and replace it with a new one. I figured I had nothing to lose by digging a little deeper to fix the one I had and this guide is the result. Glad it was helpful.
Scott
I just finished a replacement of the battery and the phone would not turn on. The area around the CPU would get very hot when I plugged it into power. I thought for sure the U2 was the problem but the fix turned out to be much simpler. If you look at the Yellow frame in step 15, just below that box where the top left corner of the CPU shield is, you will see a small notch in the corner of the shield.
When I was prying the battery out I must have pressed down on that corner and the shield was shorting to something on the board. Thankfully no damage was done. After carefully prying this corner up and away from the components below, the phone booted up and all is working fine.
I did not use heat to soften the glue. My suggestion would be to take whatever steps you need to soften the glue and make prying the battery out much easier.
Thanks for a great guide!
Starting in Step 10 there are very delicate connectors that are easily broken. I first attempted to lift one with a spudger and noticed it begin to crack. I found an alternative way that worked perfectly for all of these types of connectors. Using 2 straight pins, press the point of each one just on either side of the connector, between the connector and the housing. Then use each pin to evenly pry the connector up. It will pop right out of the socket with no damage.
I found that at this point I was able to avoid any further steps by removing the screw from the DC in board and the flip the machine over to reveal its connection to the board. I removed this connection and then was able to wiggle the board out and snake the cord out. Avoiding Step 38 saves a lot of screw removal. Not to mention not having to remove the CD Drive also saves a lot of time.
Just be careful when doing this that you do not force the board out of its place. There is room to remove it, but it is a gentle task.
On a Macbook I just tore down, I found that in this step, the 4mm screw was on the left, not the right. I thought maybe someone else had it apart before and accidentally switched them so in staying true to these instructions I tried to reassemble with the 4mm screw on the right. I found it would not go all the way in. I ended up putting it back together with the 2-3mm screws on the right and the 1-4mm screw on the left.