Kahana

Hi everyone! Lame question, I suspect. I have lightly refurbished my partnerʻs A1342, except for the HD, which will be...

i posted a question a few days ago regarding my MacBook A1342 right and left speakers, and finally discovered the solution...

My mid-2009 2.26 GHz A1342 MacBook Unibody (White) is suffering from dead (right speaker) and/or blown (rear and left)...

Hi! I just bought a “refurbished” mid-2012 15” 2.3 GHz A1286 Problems with the left screen hinge loose, and random crashes...

Hi! @mayer !!! i found the right and left speakers in the computer!! They are on the underside of the keyboard assembly, secured with adhesive. Right Speaker is under the optical drive, and Left Speaker under the logic board. i purchased the replacements on eBay. Right Speaker: 1) Remove Optical Drive 2) Disconnect Right Speaker connector to logic board per Logic Board replacement Step 12 3) Gently de-route speaker connector wire 4) Gently (i slipped the tip of the micro tweezer in the iFixit kit under the edge of the speaker) lift the speaker away from the rear of the keyboard - it is held with adhesive 5) Secure replacement speaker, and reverse steps to complete installation Left Speaker: 1) Remove Logic Board up through Step 20 2) (Left Speaker connector to logic board is located at Logic Board replacement Step 16, and will already be done in removing the logic board) 3) Gently de-route speaker connector wire 4) Gently (i slipped the tip of the micro tweezer in the iFixit kit under the edge of the...

hi! macbook pro 15” Unibody A1286 mid-2012 i7 2.3GHz 16GB i had similar situation, my symptoms including: kernel panic errors overheating crashes from any movement random crashes 3 bongs of death slow boot ups incomplete shutdowns SMC Resets did not work did not PRAM reset based on feedback from here and Apple, i decided to swap out the logic board. followed guide, took 2 1/2 hours, but if i ever have to do it again, i’m sure the work will be much faster. the result: (+) ALL symptoms disappeared, although boot up seemed slow the first few times. seems to be coming back to (5400rpm) speed. it’s been thirty-six hours, so far so good . (-) cannot access previous Time Capsule sparsebundle file. followed some convoluted (for me) Terminal commandsnon another website, but the protocol failed, so i’m starting my time machine from scratch. conclusion: the logic board replacement is something you want to be absolutely sure is necessary. there are a LOT of opportunities to break things you REALLY don’t want to break,...

thank you! i was able to use this as a guide to getting all the way to replacing the keyboard. (which is worth a guide in and of itself). and if anyone has tips on removing stripped screws (heads stripped) iʻd love to learn them. iʻve run into that problem on at least two MBPʻs (battery, and keyboard).

hi! i know iʻm 6 years late, and you probably figured it out already, but for the rest of us newbies , line the plug over the socket and gently press down. the correct orientation of the plug is the side with the tiny slots in them faces the logic board, aligning with the contacts in the socket. it may help to press the side farthest from the ribbon cable first.

hi everyone! iʻm about to replace the rear speaker on my late 2009 A1342, but i also need to replace both the left and right speakers as well. would someone please help me out? i hope i donʻt have to pull the logic board (i already did that on my mid 2012 A1284, and it was, ok, but i have more gray hairs now . . .).

Thank you, Andrew Optimus Goldheart and team iFixit! just swapped in a 1TB Crucial MX500 SSD, as the OEM 1TB 5400 rpm HD was getting suspiciously flaky. went smoothly, with the exception of cloning the drive before swap. i kept getting an error saying that the SSD was disconnected (USB 3.0 -SATA case/interface bought on-line). i went through SuperDuper!, which was an absolute fail, as i couldnʻt find a way to restart the cloning without an erase first. Then i tried Acorns, but realized it had that demon .exe extension. finally got CarbonClone, which 1) decreased the frequency of disconnect errors, and 2) allowed me to pick up the cloning from where it left off (after scanning all the previously completed cloning). three days later, iʻm running on a SSD, with much relief.

just replaced battery on my MBP A1286 mid 2012. went quickly (except the broken battery tab and frozen screw that the “reconditioner” apparently broke, proly by overtorquing the screw or something before selling it to me). great help for a newbie fixer weaning herself off “genius bar”. did the swap along with changing over to a 1TB SSD. calibrated the battery, but havenʻt put it to the IRL test yet. unfortunately, i didnʻt read the comments down here about getting good quality battery (duh). i bought mine online for <$45, and now, am holding my breath . . . otherwise, thank you Andrew Optimus Goldheart and team iFixit!

oh, it would help if the instructions were clearer about sliding the connectors apart or lifting (with spudge) photos showing direction of sliding (“pulling”) the connector apart would help too. also, those ZIFs are a bit of a challenge: close-up photos of exactly where the slots are, and what they look like, would be helpful. i managed them ok (knocking on wood, right now), but from the comments, both the ZIFs and the screen connector could use some additional, clearer photos.

that said,

THANK YOU

Andrew Optimus Goldheart

your guide rocked and saved me a computer, a lot of money, time, stress, and gave me hella confidence.

ps, donʻt forget to LATCH the retaining flap back in place. i forgot and had to re-open the computer, was only getting the letter “H”. wasted 5 minutes for a 2 second slip up.

this is the only step iʻm really not sure if it worked - i donʻt know if i got enough heat sink paste in. feels a little warm with a fan pad under the computer, but maybe thatʻs just normal. i HIGHLY urge reading the linked section of doing the thermal paste. i hope i never have to do it again, unless i know i got it right this time.

ummm, yeah, this was an intimidating 2-STEP step. sounds easy, lift the latch then pull back on the cable connector, but it took me several minutes (felt like an hour) to figure it out.. reinserting was worse, i couldnʻt figure out how to relatch the connection, lots of attempts, and i finally got it in. tested it gingerly, and i think itʻs ok. at least, the screen is working, so iʻll take that as a good sign.

holy moly!!!!! i did it!!!! thank you TEAM iFIXIT!!!!! my mbp15 uni mid-2012 is once again a laptop, once again a computer, once again a tool for my art. Apple Store was going to charge me a lot, more than a replacement logic board, “if they could get one”. since i had done the fan on a 2009, RAM on the 2009 and this machine, and tightened up the screen hinge on this one (i bought it “refurbished”, turns out it has broken battery mounting lugs and was missing a hinge screw), so i figured, wth, lets do this. weeks of hemming and hawing, and i finally ordered the board for ~ $350. spent the morning working on it, forgot to latch the keyboard ZIF, so i had to backtrack, but otherwise, it works. the only thing was that i have to do a whole new backup (Time Machine), in progress now. now iʻm saving money to get a new battery and 1TB SSD, which should be a breeze after doing the logic board. gonna rehab my partnerʻs old white machine (2004?) sometime. one happy and relieved kitty girl here!!!!!